Herijuana and Basic Beer First Grow

born2killspam

Well-Known Member
Why force flower when your plants are still jailbait?? When they show preflowers, and alternating nodes they are sexually mature and will give you the best results unless you have a specific lollipop gameplan you need to stick with.. As far as great value seeds go, there are two producers I like.. Seedsman, and BC Seed Company (I live in Canada).. Cheap quality seeds every time I've seen them from both..
I can only suggest grabbing your phone book, and calling the electrical/lighting outfitters for hid setups in the $50-75 range .. Probably the best place to get any lights actually if you can't cool an HID.. I can guarantee that contractors/industry don't buy HIDs from magazines and hydro shops:)..
 

purplekitty7772008

Well-Known Member
I ordered a package of seeds from
http://marijuana-seeds.nl/
and this was on MARCH the 2ND:evil::evil::evil::evil:
I never got them at my secure location and have had the worst possible communication to resolve the issue. I emailed them and got a reply to how it was shipped and thats about it. Been getting automated responses since. Got my last one today from a email I sent bout two weeks ago. Sooooo conclusion is that (Marijuana Seeds.NL)http://marijuana-seeds.nl/ is gay and they can kiss-assOh and I'll post this info on a proper page when I am not lazy lol.

I was thinking about placing an order with them because they have the
best prices I've seen so far....

but this makes me think whether or not I should do it. So you placed
your order almost 3 months ago and haven't gotten your product
and have only heard back from them 2-3 times???

Please say it isn't so, I was really looking forward to buying from them.
 

coopdevillan

Well-Known Member
My leaf tips on a few plants are dry and look dead ? Only like 5 tips are like this but it has progressed from what I can tell. I am useing no nutes and only floros at the moment so Im sure its not light burn buuut.......... The plants seem to be a lighter green maybe even greenish yellow. Please brain storm with me. I do not have my ph meter back from the grave so am at a loss till I get the ends to buy another. Think I could do the fish ph strips for a short time to ph the res on my drip ?
 

born2killspam

Well-Known Member
That tip burn is the start of a potassium deficiency, but don't get hung up on the potassium, because the lightening is the start of nitrogen need, and if you're seeing reddish stems/petioles then thats likely them wanting some phosphorus.. its time to give them some balanced vegging food..
Don't worry btw, seeing that is better than overdoing it before they show those signs..
 

coopdevillan

Well-Known Member
So here is my update finally. Sorry I have been out of town at a concert and doing the life of a rockstar lol. Life can be soooo grand at times.
Well the last time I posted I was having a problem with the ladies. I was either having a nute problem or a hard water problem from my sink. My leafs were turning yellow at the tips and dying from the tip down. They were also turning yellow slowly.
So before I left I changed a few things and put the old lady in charge of the show. I started the plants on 1/4-1/2 nutes in 1 gallon jugs of super market drinking water. i put 4 more 24 W 1600 LUMEN bulbs in the hood I made. I still need six more bulbs. I lost a fan and have been at 78=82 give or take. I am getting another fan and I hope it will take it down a few degrees. I also added 2 water bottles of c02. I want to start the tap water again and see if it has any negative effects. But would like feedback on this. I DO NOT HAVE MY PH STICK YET AND AM DESPERATELY IN NEED OF ONE I KNOW, but I need the funds first.
I have decided to make the whole guest room the set up due to opportunity. But i'll post that on the next post same thread.
Soooooo to Tech N9ne I go and when I get back my bitches are sooooooooooooooo much better and healthy and just wow!!!
 

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coopdevillan

Well-Known Member
Here are a couple of more photos. The wierd looken one of the plant is a retarded HJ I named "Timmy". Its leaf growth is really abnormal and retarded. I hope it grows healthy and gives retarded strength bud:p The room pics are of the new room and I am looking for a little help on how to use the room and it's existing vents etc. if possible so please lend a hand on this if u can. First I'd like to know where the AC's exhaust goes. It's the vent on the top of the wall in the room. Could I exhaust my flowering room into this vent, heat and smell ???? Secondly should I box my window off and use it to intake outside day and night air ? And lastly do you think I could use the chest in the photo to cure and dry buds ?
Thanks and hope to hear from all of you soon!
 

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born2killspam

Well-Known Member
I really think that was just the plants showing need for nutes as I outlined above.. Its kind of the rarity when newer growers err on the side of underfeeding, but its less destructive.. If those temps were taken at canopy level then I think they're fine.. If taken from a less intense area then yea up the fan power..
Do you know what the typical pH/ppm of your tap water is, and do you have H3PO4 for pH down?? I just did a little test using my tap water (pH7.6/120ppm) and creme of tartar (potassium bitartrate, its likely in your spice cabinet).. Anyways, 5 mL of 70°F 'saturated' water (add too much, dissolve all you can, wait for the rest to settle, then take water from the top) takes 1L of tap water to pH6.6.. And that pH should be more stable between pH6-7 than if it was lowered with acetic/citric acid..

Edit: things look ok though.. The newr growth is looking fine.. Seedlings are really sensitive to minor flucutations of pH, and your medium does nothing to buffer that.. The same fluctuations should have a less noticable effectnow that things are more established.. IMO your water needs to be pretty dang brutal to be unusable.. I'm not on the RO water bandwagon.. You know whats pretty damn perfect though is rain water.. Mine is consistent at pH5.7/15ppm.. Perfect for hydro, mixed 50/50 with tapwater its perfect for soil..
 

coopdevillan

Well-Known Member
No I do not know my PPM on tap but I am in a hustle to get my Pen so I can move to flowering. I think I'm cool with it for the moment. I am also wondering from visual on your part when do u think I can clone for sex ? I'd like to move on with finding who are the chosen lol. And lastly I am learning PPM still but am curios if I just change my water and nutes every week till I get my pen would I be cool with my PPM ? Or should I continue to do the 1 Gallon jug hand feed till I get my pen ?
 

bigtomatofarmer

Well-Known Member
Nice plants man. I love watching grows so Ill be here until the end.
More important than ppm is ph. Do you know what the ph of your water is? That could be your problem....
Good luck man Ill see you around
 

born2killspam

Well-Known Member
As long as you leave one true node (the seedling cotyledon leaves ARE NOT a true node) you can top for cloning as soon as you have enough to work with above that.. For the sake of building a strong root system, and allow them to approach sexual maturity (when preflowers emerge and phylotaxy changes from opposing nodes to alternating nodes) its preferable to grow them to 5-7 nodes then snip them way down to one or two nodes as per Uncle Ben's method that is stickied in the Advanced forum.. You can safely do as you please though as long as you leave atleast one true node.. If your height is an issue it might not be a bad idea to do it sooner since they won't be able to grow as vigorously early in 12/12 with a smaller rootball.. Yes that will affect yield/plant, but not necessarily yield/area since you can fit more plants in there..
BTW, those 13W cfls are going to get really insufficient really fast.. You should atleast get the 23W ones, preferably 30W+ or hid obviously.. Call electrical/lighting outfitters in your phone book.. The kind of places contractors use.. You can get any lights you desire at places like that cheaper than anywhere else.. And if using cfls you should definately try to orient them so a side faces the plants directly instead of mounting them vertically above.. A makeshift horizontal gull-wing reflector is ideal..
 
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