Make it rain technique ?

[legallyflying]

Ohhh. Sorry to try and inject a little humor into yer another thred started by someoe that is unable to use the search function. I mean come on, how many hits could make and it and rain really return. But as it turns out, this immature twit has a masters degree in ecology, has worked in the restoration field for over a decade and has about 20 credit hours in graduate level plant pysiology coursework. So in the interrest of dispelling yet more miss information, and plant physiology theory that was developed during some cheech and chong weekend marathon I can tell you that the assumptions and reasoning stated above for the MIR technique are completely and utterly WRONG.

Plants can't uptake nutrients when fed rainwater? Really? Huh. That's kind of wierd given that rainwater is the only source of water for 90% of the plants in the world.

Plants response to water logged and hypoxic soils is more root growth? Gee I guess all those studies that found saturated soils resulted in reduced growth, root development and biomass were wrong. And hear I thought soil hypoxia promoted root rot, decreased microbial activity, and less nutrient uptake due to altered redox potential. For the record, drying soil will promote further root growth as the plant roots follow the moisture. That is why it's better to drench and let dry out, not just water a little everyday.

Plant transpiration rates are a function of stomata and are influenced by light intensity, temperature, and humidity. It hasn't got a single thing to due with the roots. Uptake yes, transpiration, no. So the idea that "plants are uptaking more water and will suck up more nutrients" is bunk. Plants respond to environmental conditions, not on "memmory" of past conditions.

So while flushing the soil has plenty of benefits, unless you have high concentrations of minerals or screwed up ph it is unneccesary and in fact, detrimental. The degree of detriment is largely a function of the water holding capacity of your soil and duration of hypoxia.

So yeah, this thread is "interesting" but only in the sense that i find the degree to which some people anthropomorphasize mj plants and torture botanical physiology to support their observations amusing.

If you don't find the thought of showering a stripper with pennies amusing, then you need to switch strains cause your smoking "humorless tight ass kush"

 

[rzza]

i would like to make it hail on a stripper but i have a question ....

have you read the riddleme thread on it? because i dont believe it was described well in this thread.

what i do to make it rain is water>feed>water>feed with a couple exceptions (transition stages) i dont alter the ph differently except when i start with 7.0 and feed, the nutes drop to about five and i need to bring it up to about 6. when i just water, i add cal/mag (until the end) and then i still need to drop the ph to 6.

the plants appear to feed faster then they drink. so the schedule is like this ....water[5 days] feed [3 days] water [5 days] feed [3 days] etc.... so i do allo the soil to dry and roots to chase the moisture.

maybe my interpretation of his thread is different then yours, maybe you only read this thread and not his..... im not sure. hell maybe i just didnt comprehend his thread properly and i just took it the way i wanted to.

 

[legallyflying]

I didn't read the original thread as it seems there still isn't a link to it. The OP didn't provide a whole lot of information at all for me to try and help and I really had no idea what the hell he was talking about. Could have been a way to encourage precipitation for outdoor growers for all I know. I just thought I would at least post something to bump it up so others would notice it.

So I guess I took offense at being characterized as being a dipshit noob that has nothing to offer and lacks the ability to read. Perhaps he wasn't directing his comments to me directly as my posts do not generally reflect a lack of plant cultivation knowledge or offer advice that is firmly rooted in reality. Don't take for a second that my total post count is somehow a reflection on my skills or knowledge base. Just rekindled my love affair for MJ growing after being able to do so legally.

Dissed by a nascar fan no less.... which is funny cause everyone knows you have to be poor and stupid to be affiliated with NASCAR.... http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2010/10/07/south-park-nascar-_n_754164.html

 

[darkdestruction420]

I didn't read the original thread as it seems there still isn't a link to it. The OP didn't provide a whole lot of information at all for me to try and help and I really had no idea what the hell he was talking about. Could have been a way to encourage precipitation for outdoor growers for all I know. I just thought I would at least post something to bump it up so others would notice it.

So I guess I took offense at being characterized as being a dipshit noob that has nothing to offer and lacks the ability to read. Perhaps he wasn't directing his comments to me directly as my posts do not generally reflect a lack of plant cultivation knowledge or offer advice that is firmly rooted in reality. Don't take for a second that my total post count is somehow a reflection on my skills or knowledge base. Just rekindled my love affair for MJ growing after being able to do so legally.

Dissed by a nascar fan no less.... which is funny cause everyone knows you have to be poor and stupid to be affiliated with NASCAR.... http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2010/10/07/south-park-nascar-_n_754164.html

um, i posted multiple links to it about 14 posts ago.......

 

[RastaMonsta]

Ohhh. Sorry to try and inject a little humor into yer another thred started by someoe that is unable to use the search function. I mean come on, how many hits could make and it and rain really return. But as it turns out, this immature twit has a masters degree in ecology, has worked in the restoration field for over a decade and has about 20 credit hours in graduate level plant pysiology coursework. So in the interrest of dispelling yet more miss information, and plant physiology theory that was developed during some cheech and chong weekend marathon I can tell you that the assumptions and reasoning stated above for the MIR technique are completely and utterly WRONG.

Plants can't uptake nutrients when fed rainwater? Really? Huh. That's kind of wierd given that rainwater is the only source of water for 90% of the plants in the world.

Plants response to water logged and hypoxic soils is more root growth? Gee I guess all those studies that found saturated soils resulted in reduced growth, root development and biomass were wrong. And hear I thought soil hypoxia promoted root rot, decreased microbial activity, and less nutrient uptake due to altered redox potential. For the record, drying soil will promote further root growth as the plant roots follow the moisture. That is why it's better to drench and let dry out, not just water a little everyday.

Plant transpiration rates are a function of stomata and are influenced by light intensity, temperature, and humidity. It hasn't got a single thing to due with the roots. Uptake yes, transpiration, no. So the idea that "plants are uptaking more water and will suck up more nutrients" is bunk. Plants respond to environmental conditions, not on "memmory" of past conditions.

So while flushing the soil has plenty of benefits, unless you have high concentrations of minerals or screwed up ph it is unneccesary and in fact, detrimental. The degree of detriment is largely a function of the water holding capacity of your soil and duration of hypoxia.

So yeah, this thread is "interesting" but only in the sense that i find the degree to which some people anthropomorphasize mj plants and torture botanical physiology to support their observations amusing.

If you don't find the thought of showering a stripper with pennies amusing, then you need to switch strains cause your smoking "humorless tight ass kush"

wow what a croc of shit, gtfo outta here with your masters degree.if your gonna talk shit and not help out why the hell are you on this site? go take ur masters somewhere else.lol all ur doing is throwing around a bunch of big words with no proof or evidence to what your saying. you think your cool cuz you come on this site and bash ppl and try and act like u got a masters that everyone should listen to your croc of shit? youve probablly never even been to a strip club nerd! you think just cuz u say u got a masters were supposed to beleive you. your an idiot. how much more of a little kid can you be? bashing on my avi? lol grow up dude stop watching south park, ur head is in the gutter. lol​

 

[ganjaluvr]

" Plants respond to environmental conditions, not on "memmory" of past conditions."

Actually, your wrong with that statement my friend.

Plants do have a certain "memory" so to say and they do respond when their environment changes. The plant has to then adjust itself to the new environment conditions. Just like when you switch a plant from veg (18/6 for example) to flower (12/12 for example).. the plant does experience a little bit of shock.. due to the switch in the lighting cycle. So, I have to disagree with you on that.. plants do actually have somewhat of a "memory" so to say.

anyhow, I'm out.

peace.

 

[legallyflying]

Saying that a plant experiences "shock" is pretty much a classic example of anthropomorphism (sorry its a big word rastamonsta but that is what its called). What it means is attributing a human condition to non human objects. In this case, using an emotional state to describe a plants condition. In your example, plants are responding to the change in light cycle. They have to switch a numerous amount of chemcial processes due to increased flowering hormone levels. You may feel that the plant is in shock or "stress" because it is not growing in the same manner that you were accustomed to (veg growth in this case) but these changes are just a natural response to environment conditions. I'm not saying that it doesn't put increased demands on the plant, it does, but this stress is not due to the plant having some memory or idea of what ideal conditions are.

There is a type of Memmory that plants have..so to speak..or at least the closest thing that we recognize as memory. It has to do with the circadian rythme and the delayed response that plants can have to altered light cycles.

If your interested to learn about this phenom..and how careful measured empirical data pretty much debunks the whole 24 hours of light is good for plants stoner myth, I would give this a read..
'
http://www.tiem.utk.edu/bioed/webmodules/circadianrhythm.html

 

[dareapa]

Does anyone know basically how to explain this method ?

Where I'm from the make it rain method simply calls for feeding nutrients by spraying fertilizer on the plants once or twice a day..

 

[Dwezelitsame]

da way i do it is lots water a semi flush when small i dip whole pot till bubbles stop
then i let sit for 1/2 hour to drain then i give nutes

good luck

 

[pelt1]

I tried this technique for a while. At least the way I understood it from the posts I've read about it.

I stopped doing it though, as I could never get my plants fed properly after washing away so many nutes. What would wind up happening to me was that is was very hard for me to keep my leaves green towards the end of the grow. But I did notice that in the beginnning of my plants process, they would start out with really vigorous growth, more so than usual.

 

[mccumcumber]

Making it rain is a great idea... iff (if and only if) you are already comfortable with feeding and watering. It's much better to get your ABCs down before you venture onto writing novels.

 

[Murfy]

this is actually a great teaching tool-

based on botany and plants natural response to there stimuli. the reason for the flush is to make sure noob growers don't burn the plants. and it establishes jus tthe right amount of nutrient, as uptake is immediate(24 hours).
it also teaches a rhythm to water feed cycles while at the same time reinforcing learning to read the plant for deficiencies. it is more of a teaching tool than a method.

it uses the fact that when exposed to large amounts of low ph water(rain) the plant goes into an accelerated state in which it wicks moisture, in nature the acid water reacts with minerals and organics in the soil to yield ions which the plant is able to uptake via its roots. there are other ways to do this(and one has a huge following, for all the wrong reasons), and i use some of them. understanding this principle and mastering it has had a definite positive effect on my gardening skill.

once you use this and develop a good rhythm with healthy vigorous plants, it will naturally evolve into something that is unique to you and your garden. YOUR TECHNIQUE.


in the beginning, flush 2-3 times pot volume low ph water. i use 5.8. i use vinegar for ph down. in soilless mixes the plants "wake up" and begin transpiring almost immediately. i don't even take them out of the light, just wait 15 minutes. then run 8.0(in soilless) feed solution until it has good runoff (when you think the pot is full of fertilizer). that's it. wait until the pot is dry. (pick it up)

your plants will learn this method of increased metabolism, and watering will increase to keep up. be prepared for explosive growth! i am able to keep my plants in a suspended "suck" situation all the time, using a derivative of this technique. the grow FAST!

 

[Wolverine97]

this is actually a great teaching tool-

based on botany and plants natural response to there stimuli. the reason for the flush is to make sure noob growers don't burn the plants. and it establishes jus tthe right amount of nutrient, as uptake is immediate(24 hours).
it also teaches a rhythm to water feed cycles while at the same time reinforcing learning to read the plant for deficiencies. it is more of a teaching tool than a method.

it uses the fact that when exposed to large amounts of low ph water(rain) the plant goes into an accelerated state in which it wicks moisture, in nature the acid water reacts with minerals and organics in the soil to yield ions which the plant is able to uptake via its roots. there are other ways to do this(and one has a huge following, for all the wrong reasons), and i use some of them. understanding this principle and mastering it has had a definite positive effect on my gardening skill.

once you use this and develop a good rhythm with healthy vigorous plants, it will naturally evolve into something that is unique to you and your garden. YOUR TECHNIQUE.


in the beginning, flush 2-3 times pot volume low ph water. i use 5.8. i use vinegar for ph down. in soilless mixes the plants "wake up" and begin transpiring almost immediately. i don't even take them out of the light, just wait 15 minutes. then run 8.0(in soilless) feed solution until it has good runoff (when you think the pot is full of fertilizer). that's it. wait until the pot is dry. (pick it up)

your plants will learn this method of increased metabolism, and watering will increase to keep up. be prepared for explosive growth! i am able to keep my plants in a suspended "suck" situation all the time, using a derivative of this technique. the grow FAST!

Yes. This is a good explanation of what's actually happening. I noticed this phenomenon about five years ago when I'd consistently see my pots dry out much quicker if I got a good runoff after watering. I just used that to encourage root growth at first, then started to see much greater growth than I'd previously had. It's a good principle to understand, but a lot of the people who do it don't actually "get it".

 

[Bradtom21]

Ohhh. Sorry to try and inject a little humor into yer another thred started by someoe that is unable to use the search function. I mean come on, how many hits could make and it and rain really return. But as it turns out, this immature twit has a masters degree in ecology, has worked in the restoration field for over a decade and has about 20 credit hours in graduate level plant pysiology coursework. So in the interrest of dispelling yet more miss information, and plant physiology theory that was developed during some cheech and chong weekend marathon I can tell you that the assumptions and reasoning stated above for the MIR technique are completely and utterly WRONG.

Plants can't uptake nutrients when fed rainwater? Really? Huh. That's kind of wierd given that rainwater is the only source of water for 90% of the plants in the world.

Plants response to water logged and hypoxic soils is more root growth? Gee I guess all those studies that found saturated soils resulted in reduced growth, root development and biomass were wrong. And hear I thought soil hypoxia promoted root rot, decreased microbial activity, and less nutrient uptake due to altered redox potential. For the record, drying soil will promote further root growth as the plant roots follow the moisture. That is why it's better to drench and let dry out, not just water a little everyday.

Plant transpiration rates are a function of stomata and are influenced by light intensity, temperature, and humidity. It hasn't got a single thing to due with the roots. Uptake yes, transpiration, no. So the idea that "plants are uptaking more water and will suck up more nutrients" is bunk. Plants respond to environmental conditions, not on "memmory" of past conditions.

So while flushing the soil has plenty of benefits, unless you have high concentrations of minerals or screwed up ph it is unneccesary and in fact, detrimental. The degree of detriment is largely a function of the water holding capacity of your soil and duration of hypoxia.

So yeah, this thread is "interesting" but only in the sense that i find the degree to which some people anthropomorphasize mj plants and torture botanical physiology to support their observations amusing.

If you don't find the thought of showering a stripper with pennies amusing, then you need to switch strains cause your smoking "humorless tight ass kush"

I heard that when u grow "humorless tight ass kush" you need to drown the roots in whale piss twice daily to produce an ammonia flood. Helps make Volkswagen sized buds in a 13 day flowering period.

For real though legally flying, great info thanks for interjecting the rumor sesh with science!

I'm tired of every forum created with the intention of communal education turning into an egotistical pissing match. (My ideas are superior to your inferior ones)

Can't we all just get a bong indeed!

 

[bird mcbride]

I make it rain in my gro-op at least once a week with a pump up sprayer. Thank god I don't grow in soil.

 

[Ilovebush]

Like this?
[video=youtube_share;fls8VU7XClU]http://youtu.be/fls8VU7XClU[/video]

 

[Ilovebush]

sorry my bad...you meant this
[video=youtube_share;Syqo3L-WbCo]http://youtu.be/Syqo3L-WbCo[/video]

 

[hogbud]

From Riddleme,,,,,,,

It is all about how mother nature does things and with her being the absolute best gardener there is I set out to copy her style.

The PH of rain (in most places) is 5.6 so I PH my water to 5.8, to understand why you need to understand how everything works in nature and why they say soil is a buffer. This is why soil PH is somewhat important because when it is dry the PH should be around 7 or neutral. When it rains the soil takes on the wet PH of the water in the case of rain it is lowered. The acidic nature of rain activates things in the soil basically processing avaiable nutes and making them available to the plants. But at the low PH the plants can't get at them, I have attached a photo showing at what PH level the different nutes become available to the plant.

What happens is the plant is basically drowing and starving when it rains so it goes into hyperdrive to wick the water out of the ground in order to survive, now that they transpire anyway but much harder when it rains. As they do this the soil buffers back to it's original PH slowly and as this happens nutes become available to the plant in the various ranges. (one reason you see more growth on the second day).

Most soil growers will PH their water and nutes down in the low 6's and as high as 6.8 but this does not give the hyperdrive wicking effect, they will just transpire normally and slowly if you do this. Hence the growth you see in my pics from making it rain because I basically only let them rest for one day (to dry out and get O2) between making it rain and it is very important to know how to read them to know that this is where things are at otherwise you will easily fall into the overwater trap and cause them stress and harm possibly even kill them. It is also important that they have a healthy root system in order to be able to wick the water out of the ground faster.

TIP: if they are growing fast and wanting water in short periods of time you know you have healthy roots part of learning how to read them and one of the things to be aware of.

This is also the reason that I use chemical nutes as they are readily available to the plant right away as the wicking process goes through the various PH ranges getting back to neutral, it is a slower process with organic nutes as the rain activates and the little mico critters eat and poop processing the nutes so the plant can use them. now you must also understand that adding chem nutes lowers the PH of your soil with accumulated salt build ups, when you make it rain everytime you are basically doing what we call the flush (though in the other than MJ world it is most commonly reffered as leeching the soil) and washing unused nutes (salts) out of the soil thus allowing you to repeat the process all over again without having to worry about salt building up.

Yet another reason that it is slower when going organic cause you are washing mico's out as well and then waiting for them to multiply back up and this is why I use Jack's because it is one of the best chem nutes available on the market today. JR Peters has a very good reputation and has been one of the best nutes for agriculture and gardening for many years.

The process for container gardening is simple you make it rain with the low PH water and the plant goes into hyperdrive, you watch the top 3 inches of soil for drying out and when it does you feed them nutes but only till you see a slight runoff insuring that the pot is now full of nutes. Plant remains in hyperdrive and now feeds off the readily available nutes, you then wait till the soil dries and repeat. While the process is very simple it is the learning to read them that can be complicated and cause confusion.

Learning/knowing when to do things is the most important part of the process. It is also important not to overfeed them which causes nute burn and other problems, thus the reason we start out with 1/4 of what the nute package says and slowly work our way up to discover what the plant can handle. I hope that explains it better for everyone

 

[hogbud]

and I know that is a from RM3 quote cause I am RM3

 

[hogbud]

and a big Howdy to Murph and Wolverine !!! it's been awhile