WOW... i've found gold... i've had my eyes on these for a long while.. they use em in paint booths out west cause they're brighter than flouros and not hot like HID, and in oil industry... always wondered hwo they'ed do, awesome to see you pokin a new idea out there... i hope you smash this outta the park bro, DO IT BIG MANG, those plants have some SERIOUS SHORT INTERNODAL growth... SOG heaven bulbs... HPS causes heavy stretch.. these would be up my ally.. or better yet in my driveway.. lol... i'm following RIGHT along on this my friend... good luck.. although it doesn't seem like you'd need it
Blue Dream 800W Induction Lights SOG
- Thread starter solcielo
- Start date
Burger Boss
Well-Known Member
LOL, just when I thought LED was the "end all" and it couldn't get any better...BANG!! INDUCTION LIGHTING!!!!
Subbed
Subbed
solcielo
Active Member
Yah was doing serious research into going all LED before I stumbled onto these lights in a thread somewhere.
On an aside Burger, your avatar has to be the scariest shit I've ever seen. That baby must have been scarred for life.
Burger Boss
Well-Known Member
ROFLMAO.....yeah....I get that reaction a LOT! Got a great caption for it: "No thank's, I brought my lunch".......BB
D.Gotti
Active Member
solcielo, do you know the average height when you switched to 12/12? looks like 8-10" or so. what is your expected finishing height? how high is the temperature with the light a foot away in flower? i wasnt sure if the 81F was from veg or bloom.
sorry about all the questions, i just ordered 3 of these 400s, and want to run a sog style. i figure your the one to ask, your plants look amazing, they say good things about the lighting already, very strong looking nodes, healthy looking foliage. is the stem color genetic, temp stress, or deficiency?
sorry about all the questions, i just ordered 3 of these 400s, and want to run a sog style. i figure your the one to ask, your plants look amazing, they say good things about the lighting already, very strong looking nodes, healthy looking foliage. is the stem color genetic, temp stress, or deficiency?
solcielo
Active Member
I got healthy rooted clones about 3-4" (really thick cuts too) and let them go from about Dec25 till roughly Jan16, or just about 3 weeks and they got to about 8-10" tall I think, though I never put a tape up to them come to think about it. This phenotype of blue dream tends to only put on another 1.5 feet or so but usually it is known to stretch 2-3'. I expect about 24-30 inches total height. Temp is the same flower or veg, same lights just shorten the duration for veg. Went in today and messed with it a bit, if I hang the sensor out under the light about 8 inches away totally hanging out in the open it reads 84 degrees. Laying on top of the canopy in steady state on a normal day it stays around 81 on the top of the canopy. The room (about 11'x9' with a small bathroom attached) heats up to about 76 because I keep good circulation.
These lights seem perfect for SOG. From what I've read they don't offer quite the penetration you'll get out of HID lighting so to have a shallower canopy (such as with sog) would be ideal. I was actually blown away at how tight the node spacing is when I was getting in there trimming the little girls yesterday.
As to the stem color that is genetic and also a product of the cooler temps at night. I leave the window open and the room gets into the low-mid 60's during the evening usually and that cooler temp is what causes a lot of the purple coloring in stems and buds. The last grow with much the same strain and a few more most every stem had a dark reddish-purple hue to it. I also read somewhere that a cold snap towards the end of flower for blue dream makes the buds take on a blue color which would be cool if I could control that.
D.Gotti
Active Member
Very nice. This is pretty much exactly what ill be looking at this summer. 
It will be my first SOG. Im still trying to figure out the right setup for me to run with a SOG. I do DTW soil-less. Pots and medium are cheap and stationary but harder to water in quantities of small containers. Looking into some diy auto feeding setups. I have 2 other grows to work on, so its hard to devote a lot of attention.
It will be my first SOG. Im still trying to figure out the right setup for me to run with a SOG. I do DTW soil-less. Pots and medium are cheap and stationary but harder to water in quantities of small containers. Looking into some diy auto feeding setups. I have 2 other grows to work on, so its hard to devote a lot of attention.Just ordered a 40w 2700k induction light. I can only grow 2 to 3 plants at a time. I'm in the middle of flowering a grow so I'm going to add it to that and then once I start my next one I'm going to add in a 40w 6500k light. They say it gives off 150 lume per watt. I've used only CFL's up to this point, but I figure with my small area that two induction and maybe one or two CFL's I should get really nice results. I'm subbed for this grow.
chazbolin
Well-Known Member
Having used 4 of the inda-gro 400's for a little over a year now myself I can attest to their blends giving me a full grow from veg to flower with comparable yields from my 3-1000 watt hps days. Look forward to seeing this strain in all it's glory.Just ordered a 40w 2700k induction light. I can only grow 2 to 3 plants at a time. I'm in the middle of flowering a grow so I'm going to add it to that and then once I start my next one I'm going to add in a 40w 6500k light. They say it gives off 150 lume per watt. I've used only CFL's up to this point, but I figure with my small area that two induction and maybe one or two CFL's I should get really nice results. I'm subbed for this grow.
I learned a lot about induction grow lights on the inda-gro site but one of the things I did not know until I talked with them is that the induction lamps that use internal electrodes will fail in our environments since the base is usually side or top up. heat from the lamp and the room trap itself inside the electronics and they fail. While these screw in style internal electrode inductions may price out a bit less go with the external electrode type induction and you'll only spend money on these systems once. I'm speaking from experience.
Great Thread!
chazbolin
Well-Known Member
Good spacing on the lights. When they get around week 10 let the canopy get to about a foot away. That's worked best for me. Also FYI the link you put up isn't working. pulling up a seat
dunit
Active Member
Sub'd and rep'd. Thanks for taking the plunge. Been looking at induction for a while. While they seem to cover lots of spectrum they have a pretty good hole at 415-435nm and 660-720nm so been kind of apprehensive. Am certainly glad to see a grow journal so once again thanks for that
D.Gotti
Active Member
The holes, they are small holes though. They still provide adequate PAR light from the effective ranges 0f 380-520 nanos, and from 610-720 nanos. The HPS however does not have a hole.....it actually drops off starting at about 640nm having less usable light in the red spectrum. Also there is more usable light in the 380-520nm range than a MH light.Sub'd and rep'd. Thanks for taking the plunge. Been looking at induction for a while. While they seem to cover lots of spectrum they have a pretty good hole at 415-435nm and 660-720nm so been kind of apprehensive. Am certainly glad to see a grow journal so once again thanks for that
Burger Boss
Well-Known Member
Plus+ Rep for you Gotti, for understanding "PAR". I get so bloody sick of hearing some clown going on about the Lux & Lumen's, for which the plants have NO use. Good luck & good grow.......BB
dunit
Active Member
Not sure if I'm the clown your directing your comments at BB.
Chlorophyl A does peak at 435nm so that particular spectrum is quite heavily weighted in PAR calculation. If you have a look at a PAR sensitivity spectrum graph the two highest weighted spectrums are 420-430nm and 660-670nm.
I'm crystal clear that these lights represent the highest overall PAR ratings of any light out there and their efficiency is pretty much second to none, certainly as available to the public anyway. I am just interested to see if those two holes have any significant effect in our particular application or if the strength through the rest of the spectrum more than makes up for it.
Thats why I'm watching and once again thanks to our host for making this info available
Cheers
Burger Boss
Well-Known Member
I went back and reread your post, I see nothing about lux or lumens, so I guess there were no comments directed at you, however, if you were offended in some way, then by all means, please accept my apologises.......BBNot sure if I'm the clown your directing your comments at BB.
Chlorophyl A does peak at 435nm so that particular spectrum is quite heavily weighted in PAR calculation. If you have a look at a PAR sensitivity spectrum graph the two highest weighted spectrums are 420-430nm and 660-670nm.
I
I'm crystal clear that these lights represent the highest overall PAR ratings of any light out there and their efficiency is pretty much second to none, certainly as available to the public anyway. I am just interested to see if those two holes have any significant effect in our particular application or if the strength through the rest of the spectrum more than makes up for it.
Thats why I'm watching and once again thanks to our host for making this info available
Cheers
chazbolin
Well-Known Member
This is a very interesting way of looking at the PAR spectrum that Ive not seen before. I see that the units are uMole/s/m^2/nm, the per nm is the new addition Ive not seen. It makes total sense in that it accounts for the fact that shorter wavelength photons have more energy than longer wavelength photons. This comes from an equation we have all seen:
E = hc/λ
Using the PAR Photon graph you can make direct one to one comparisons to the spectral graphs of the various light technologies to the PAR graph.
Well Done Brutha!
E = hc/λ
Using the PAR Photon graph you can make direct one to one comparisons to the spectral graphs of the various light technologies to the PAR graph.
Well Done Brutha!
