Medi takes the Under Current RDWC system for a test drive, 6' x 8' Screen of Green.

[Stoner Smurf]

So I stand corrected, and I owe you an apology research kitty. A DIY UC system is much harder to make then one would originally think. I now definately see the value in the CCH2O product. When you use storage totes the edges are tapered (the top is larger than the bottom), which can make it quite difficult to drill holes. Even though all my holes were perfectly drilled at the same height, several of the PVC pipes would go through the uniseals at angles ( less than 45 degrees). The system still works with crooked PVC (as long as the water level is high enough which it should be) but it looks ugly, and it makes it a bitch to drain the system. I was trying to run a perpetual so I installed dividers to prevent the roots from tangling up, which also turned out to be impossible. Nothing will hold to the odd plastic that extra strength storage totes are made out of. None of the industrial water sealants worked, silicone, caulk, liquid nails. All 3 turned to liquid soon as water was added, even 72 hours after application.

It actually turned out to be such a headache I scraped the whole thing and went with a more tradition RDWC system. So I wanted to make sure to retract my previous statement. If you are planning on getting into a DIY UC system, it will be much more difficult and complex than it appears. Even with the cheap plastic of the CCH20 systems, I now see their value. It's a shame they don't upgrade their plastics, then it would really be a product I could get behind. Anywho my bad for calling you out R. Kitty, you were more correct than I (I do still stand by it would be much cheaper to DIY, just a whole hell of a lot harder than one would think).

In my tinkering I did find a way to help combat roots clogging the pipes, which I have heard can be a problem with these UC systems. I am pretty sure it could be pretty easily adapted the the UC system. Enjoy this crude MS paint drawing:

By capping the pipe then drilling small holes along the bottom of the pipe equaling the same or more than the inside diameter of the PVC pipe (for example 4+ 1/2" holes for 2" pipe, or 8+ 1/4" holes for 2" pipe ). It spreads the pull of the current out considerably, which should help prevent the roots from being pulled toward it. I tested it with a piece of yarn and it is a very noticeable difference. And even if they are pulled toward it, having the small holes on the bottom of the pipe make it much harder for them to get inside of it.

Edit: Hopefully someone will like my cap idea and use it which will make up for me be totally wrong earlier.

 

[MediMary]

Respect stoner smurf, thanks for the update.!!!

 

[kevin]

check out the local aquarium shops for used equipment. i found some great deals, including a water chiller, pumps and meters. i keep waiting to find the ph doser for cheap.

I dunno if anyone needs a water chiller, but I just came across the best deal I have ever seen on one.
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/405878-best-deals-water-chillers-reviews.html

 

[jigfresh]

medimary, your inbox is full and for whatever reason I can't post a visitor message on your member page.

 

[MediMary]

inbox cleaned :

So curious, have any of you guys heard about nutrient fall out due to magnetic drive pumps, came across a random post on the subject, then saw this on the botanicare site, ""In hydroponics, iron falls out of the solution relatively fast due to the magnetic driven pumps without grounding probes and high levels of dissolved oxygen from air stones and pumps.""

 

[MediMary]

Some info on h202, if anyone is interested

Here is some info.

Hydrogen Peroxide and Horticulture
By Bryce Fredrickson
Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) is a clear sharp smelling substance very similar in appearance to water (H2O). Like water it is made up of Hydrogen and Oxygen, however H2O2 has an extra Oxygen atom in an unstable arrangement. It is this extra atom that gives H2O2 its useful properties. H2O2 has been used for many purposes including cleaning, bleaching, sterilizing, rocket fuel, animal feed treatment and in addition many miraculous claims about its health benefits have been made. This article isn't about any of these; instead it will concentrate on horticultural applications. H2O2 is of great use for both hydroponics and dirt/soilless gardening.

1. What Does Hydrogen Peroxide do?
H2O2 is an unstable molecule, when it breaks down a single oxygen atom and a molecule of water is released. This oxygen atom is extremely reactive and will attach itself to either another O- atom forming a stable Oxygen molecule or attack a nearby organic molecule. Both the stable and O- forms will increase the level of dissolved oxygen. This is the method by which H2O2 is beneficial. Pretreating the water supply with H2O2 will drive out the Chlorine many cities use to sterilize it. This will also degrade any pesticides or herbicides that might be present as well as any other organic matter. Well water can be high in methane and organic sulfates, both of which H2O2 will remove. Many disease causing organisms and spores are killed by Oxygen, the free Oxygen H2O2 releases is extremely effective at this. H2O2 will help eliminate existing infections and will help prevent future ones. It is also useful for suppressing algae growth. The free Oxygen atom will destroy dead organic material (i.e, leaves roots) in the system preventing them from rotting and spreading diseases.

2.Over Watering
Roots require Oxygen to breathe and low levels are the main cause of almost all root diseases. Both soil and hydroponic plants often fall prey to the same syndrome although it is rarely recognized as what it really is. Hydroponic crops often fail due to "root rot" and soil crops succumb to "over watering." The real cause of both these problems is a shortage of Oxygen at the root zone. In a soil system the soil consists of particles, a film of water on the particles and air spaces between the particles. When too much water is put into the soil the air spaces fill with liquid. The roots will quickly use up what Oxygen is dissolved in the water, if they haven't drunk enough of the liquid to allow air back in to the soil spaces they will stop working. In this situation roots will start dying within twenty-four hours. As the roots die the plants ability to drink water and nutrients will decrease, this will cause symptoms of nutrient deficiencies (mostly pale, slow, weak growth), and strangely they will start to wilt like they don't have enough water. It is easy to make a fatal mistake at this point and add more water.

In a Hydroponic system the cause is a more direct simple lack of oxygen in the solution, this may be from inadequate circulation and/or aeration. High reservoir temperatures also interfere with Oxygen's ability to dissolve in the water. Temperatures above 70F (20C) will eventually cause problems, 62F-65F (16C-18C) is recommended. The same symptoms will appear as with soil plants but you can also check the roots. Healthy roots should be mostly white with maybe a slight yellowish tan tinge. If they are a brownish colour with dead tips or they easily pull away there is at least the beginnings of a serious problem. An organic dirtlike rotting smell means there is already a very good chance it is too late. As roots die and rot they eat Oxygen out of the water, as Oxygen levels are even further depleted more roots die, a viscius circle may be well under way. Reduced Oxygen levels and high temperatures both encourage anaerobic bacteria and fungi. The plants may still be saved but you will have to work fast.

3. How Hydrogen Peroxide prevents root rot/overwatering.
When plants are watered with H2O2 it will break down and release Oxygen into the area around the roots. This helps stop the Oxygen from being depleted in the water filled air spaces until air can get back into them. High Oxygen levels at the roots will encourage rapid healthy root growth. In a Hydroponic system H2O2 will disperse through out the system and raise Oxygen levels as it breaks down. Strong white healthy roots with lots of fuzzy new growth will be visible. This fuzzy growth has massive surface area allowing for rapid absorption of the huge amounts of water and nutrients needed for rapid top growth. A healthy plant starts with a healthy root system.

4. How to use it.
H2O2 comes in several different strengths 3%, 5%, 8% and 35%, also sold as food grade Hydrogen Peroxide. The most economical is 35% which we recommend be diluted to three percent before using, as at this high concentration it can cause damage to skin and clothing. When working with food grade H2O2 it is very important that you clean up any spills or splashes immediately, it will damage almost anything very quickly. This is extra important with skin and clothing. Skin will be temporarily bleached pure white if not washed cleaned. Gloves are strongly recommended when working with any strong chemical.

Food grade H2O2 can be diluted to three percent by mixing it one part to eleven parts water (preferably distilled). The storage container should be opaque to prevent light from getting in and it must be able to hold some pressure. If three-liter pop bottles are available in your area they are ideal for mixing and storing H2O2. There are twelve quarter liters (250ml) in three liters, if you put in one quarter liter H2O2 and eleven quarter liters (250ml) water in the bottle it will full of three percent H2O2 and the bottle can hold the pressure that the H2O2 will generate. Three percent Hydrogen Peroxide may be added at up to three ml's per liter (2 1\2 tsp. Per gallon), but it is recommended that you start at a lower concentration and increase to full strength over a few weeks. Use every watering even on fresh cuttings. For hydroponics use every reservoir change and replace twenty-five percent (one quarter) every day. Example: In a 100L reservoir you would add three hundred ml's (3%) H2O2 when changing the nutrient. You would then add seventy-five ml's more every day.

5. Where to get it.
35% food grade: called food grade because it has no toxic impurities
Of course your local hydroponics retailer, whom you can locate over the web at www.hydromall.com. Direct order off the web (there may be shipping restrictions on high strength peroxides). H2O2 is used to bleach hair so the local hairdresser may have a source. The local feed supplier may have it in small towns. Prices range from fifteen dollars per quarter liter to eighty dollars a gallon. One gallon will treat up to fifty thousand liters of water.

3%5%, 8%
Can be found at most drugstores or pharmacies, prices start at a less than a dollar for a one hundred-ml bottle that will treat one hundred liters.

6. What to do if you already have root rot.

In Dirt:
Use peroxided water with anti-fungicide (benomyl) and a high Phosphate fertilizer (9-45-15, 10-52-10, 0-60-0) for root growth. Root booster (5-15-5) or any other product with rooting hormone dissolved in it is helpful in regrowing roots and is strongly recommended. If a plant is wilty adding Nutri-Boost may save it. Water heavily until liquid pours out the bottom of the pot. This sound like bad idea, but it flushes out stagnant dead water and replaces it with fresh highly oxygenated water. Don't let plants sit in trays full of water, the soil will absorb this water and stay too wet. Don't water again until the pot feels light and the top inch or two of the soil are dry.

In Hydro:
Change your nutrients. Add H2O2 to the system. This will add oxygen and chemically eat dead roots. If roots are badly rotted and can be pulled away by hand you should pull them off. They are already dead and will only rot, causing further problems. Add a fungicide to kill any fungus that is probably present in the rotted tissue to prevent it from spreading. Root booster will speed recovery. If plants are wilty Nutri-Boost may help save them. Increase aeration of the water, get an airpump and air stones, or more of them, for the reservoir. An air stone under every plant is usually very effective, but will require a larger air pump. Models that will do from forty to four hundred stones are available. Decrease the reservoir temperature, oxygen dissolves better in cold water and disease causing organisms reproduce slower as well. A good temperate range is 62F to 65F; anything above 70F will eventually cause a problem. It is also a good idea to remove any wilty plants from the system and put them on a separate reservoir so they don't infect plants that are still healthy.

Summary
The key to big productive plants is a big healthy root system and Hydrogen Peroxide is a great way to keep your roots healthy. It is a must to ensure the biggest best crops possible and to increase the chances of your plants thriving to harvest. Peroxide users will rarely lose plants or crops to root disease and will harvest larger and more consistent crops.

http://www.quickgrow.com/gardening_articles/hydrogen_peroxide_horticulture.html

H2O2: PEROXIDE PLANT PERFECTION
or Just Another “Blonde Moment”?

by IAN MALLEY

WHEN YOU FIRST GET EMBROILED in the world of growing your own produce it can seem a bit of a minefield when it comes time to hitting the indoor gardening shop in search of your grow-room essentials.

With so many different lotions, potions, additives, supplements, etc., as well as pH up, pH down, buffering solutions, etc., to be stocked up on by the first-time grower, it becomes difficult to see the wood for the trees. Expensive too, at least initially.

So how can you be sure that the grow shop is not spinning you a line with regard to what’s “necessary” and what is a “beneficial” or growers choice, (like Liquid Silicon)?

I come from the old “organic” less-is-more school of thought. Essentially, if it doesn’t smell like it’s just been shovelled off the farmyard floor, then I don’t want to know about it, preferring the sweet taste of truly organic grown produce.

But the truth of the matter is, this short-sighted approach to growing means I miss out on a lot of things that other growers take for granted. Like massive hydro yields for instance!

There’s absolutely no doubt in my mind that given a pack of seeds and a 14-week diary to keep, the hydro-grown plants will grow bigger, faster, and stronger than similar plants grown under organic conditions, and here’s the reasoning as I see it.

Organic nutrients tend to comprise “raw materials,” that is, a set of components that, as they stand in the bottle, are almost useless to the roots. This is why organic fertilizers seldom work very well when fed to hydroponically grown plants unless accompanied by a heady mix of bacteria, as seen in the new breed of “bio” hydro nutrients, such as BioSevia.

But for the privilege of using a bio-product we have to spend even more of our hard-earned on buying the bacterial solutions we need to add to get the fertilizer to work as it’s meant to. Not exactly cost effective for the grower on a tight budget.

In hydro there are no bacteria at the root zone. Not good bacteria, anyway. We feed bare roots with a cocktail of salt-based fertilizers that are, once mixed with water, absolutely ready for the grower to serve, and for the plants to use, as is. Fast, as well as efficient and straight to the point (or is that straight to the roots?).

But with organic gardening, things happen a little differently.

First of all, we actually encourage microbial activity at the root zone, because this is the organism that actually processes the raw materials we provide and, in doing so, feeds the plants. Of course (as mentioned earlier), there are good bacteria as well as bad bacteria, and this is where the boundaries become a little blurred.

H2O2

So, I’m standing in the hydroponics shop looking at the obligatory solutions required for a successful grow, and the owner points out the H2O2. So I pick up the bottle and start to read the label: “Contains Hydrogen Peroxide at 17.5%”!

It’s worth mentioning at this stage that science lessons were never really my strong point in that dim and distant memory which is my school days. I hardly attended any of them, for one thing. Happiest days of your life?

The facts of the matter as I see them are as follows: why on earth would I spend good money on nurturing a healthy and active micro-herd in the root zone and then set about pouring hydrogen peroxide over them? It’s corrosive, and it makes your hair go white!

So I set about finding out the reason, and what I found was like an epiphany of enlightenment. It also made me wish I had paid more attention during my previously mentioned science lessons, because I would have been using this stuff a long time ago.

How It Works

So, we pour hydrogen peroxide into our water, which gives a slight reading of EC or electrical current/conductivity, so that needs taking into account.

The H2O2 is very unstable in its current form and quickly breaks down once in the nutrient solution. Essentially, within a short space of time it’s present only in its component form, and in reaching this form it releases a single oxygen atom. This oxygen atom is ultra-reactive as well as aggressive. It’s looking for a fight, but instead of looking to cause problems, it’s actually on your team.

So the unstable single oxygen atom sets off, looking for mischief to make. If it comes across another oxygen atom, it attaches itself to the other atom, forming a larger, more stable oxygen molecule, or ion. This gets taken in by the plant through the roots and benefits growth above as well as within the root zone.

If, however, the rambunctious oxygen atom comes across an organic molecule, such as a virus or fungal spore, as it waxes and wanes through your nutrient solution, it will attach itself to the pathogen and quite literally oxidize itself, as well as whatever organism it had attached itself to.

And this stuff actually works!

So, what this means is not only does H2O2 supply the nutrients (and indirectly, the plants) with a massive boost of pure oxygen ions, it will play a huge part in keeping your reservoir fresh, highly oxygenated, and free from organisms such as Pythium, Fusarium, and mould, as well as a plethora of other nasties we encounter daily as hydroponic growers.

Not only that, but when the crop comes down there is no better cleaning agent to use (albeit in higher concentrations) than hydrogen peroxide. Not only will it clean as effectively as bleach but, as explained earlier, it attaches itself to other organic micro bad guys, and oxidizes them into nothingness. They simply cease to exist, leaving your grow room clean, sterile, and ready for the next crop.

Safety First

With this in mind it’s worth mentioning that your hands are also “organic organisms,” so its worth reading the safety data sheet, which any good hydroponic shop will be able to supply with the aggressive liquids they sell, as well as getting some gloves and goggles.

Speaking of goggles, I could tell you a nightmare about a grower who left a pipette full of 81 per cent nitric acid hanging out the top of the bottle, only to catch it with his sleeve, sending it airborne and filling the surrounding environment with microscopic droplets of industrial grade nitric acid at the perfect altitude and vector to land in someone’s eyes. If you think safe, handling these ultra nasty liquids becomes a whole lot easier.

But I know what you’re thinking. You’re thinking, “Cleaning is for girlies!” and “What does it do for the plants?”

Right?

O2

If it even needed saying, a fresh and regular exposure to pure oxygen will work wonders in how your plants look and “feel.” Oxygen invigorates, it heals, it’s present (and necessary) in every living form, and plants just can’t get enough of it.

With lots of oxygen available, nutrient uptake is massively boosted, and if the plant’s getting the nutrients, it will use them. Also, this extra nutrient, along with a blast of oxygen, is going to increase the production of proteins at cell level across the board, especially if the plant is getting plenty of CO2 (the carbon source the plants use to actually “build” themselves). This means thicker, stronger stems with shorter internodal spacing, as well as lush, deep-green healthy foliage. Which makes it also better equipped to handle the complicated conversions as a result of the photosynthetic processes the plant carries out in the creation of the sugars and starch’s necessary to feed it.

As a result of this mad growth, your plants will supply readily the smaller side branches necessary to facilitate a productive run of cuttings.

So, no matter what your chosen growing method is, get some hydrogen peroxide in the grow room. Whether used for oxygenation or for pathogen destruction and prevention, or as a cleaning agent, H2O2 fills all these roles and more, with aplomb.

http://www.progressive-growth.com/article-h202-peroxide-plant-perfection.php

Using Hydrogen Peroxide in your
Hydroponics Gardening System


There are no doubts about the benefits of using hydrogen peroxide properly in a hydroponics system. This becomes especially true if your nutrient reservoir is kept above 72 degrees. Warm water holds less dissolved oxygen, and therefore encourages the growth of more viruses, fungi, and anaerobic bacteria. Using hydrogen peroxide adds oxygen to you water and cleans the water of pathogens. Benefits include healthier root systems, increased nutrient uptake, thicker stems, and bigger leaves.



One expert claims it should be used on all soil gardens as well as in hydroponics sytems. Knowing as much as I do about beneficial fungus and micro-organisms and the benefits they provide to living plants, I am shy in taking this advice. However, when this first line of defense fails and plants become sick I often resort to using hydrogen peroxide treatments on my soil grown plants.



The chemical formula for hydrogen peroxide is H2O2. You may notice it is simply water with an extra oxygen atom. In fact, as hydrogen peroxide breaks down in a solution the result is oxygen and water. Its application helps deliver oxygen to over watered plant roots and helps to sterilize the growing media by killing harmful anaerobic (not oxygen compatible) bacteria and pathogens that cause disease. This includes bacterial wilt, pythium fungi, fusarium fungi, and others.




Using 3% Hydrogen Peroxide
In your Hydroponics Garden
I avoid using hydrogen peroxide you commonly find at drug stores. This is because such low percentage (3%) solutions are unstable, and chemicals are added to the peroxide to keep it from breaking down before it can be used. I did a little research because I did not know what chemicals were used for this, or if the plants uptake these chemicals, or if there was a health risk associated with any of these stabilizing chemicals.


Hydrogen peroxide is usually stabilized with acetanilide. Acetanilide is a synthetic compound that was first used for its fever reduction and pain killing properties in the late Nineteenth Century. For many years it was utilized as an alternative to aspirin to treat various ailments, but large scale medical use stopped when the toxic side effects of consuming acetanilide became apparant. This was enough to convince me to use 35% hydrogen peroxide instead.




Using 35% Hydrogen Peroxide
In your Hydroponics Garden
Firstly, 35% peroxide is caustic and should be treated with the same caution as a strong acid. 35% strength hydrogen peroxide should be readily available at any quality hydroponics supply shop. The stronger concentrations do not use the added stabilizers.


The recommended dosage is to add 2-3 ml to each gallon of water, however, I use 5 ml per gallon and have never had any problems. At every nutrient change treat your fresh water using hydrogen peroxide. The general idea is to let the hydroponics system circulate the hydrogen peroxide solution for about a half hour to let the peroxide work against pathogens and to let the solution stabilize before adding your nutrients.



The beneficial effects of using hydrogen peroxide last about 4 days. There are some gardeners who add a little peroxide to their nutrient reservoirs every 5 days in between nutrient changes. If you decide to do this, stick to the guidelines and always make sure your solution is thoroughly mixed before exposing your plants roots to it. Another option is to top off your nutrient reservoir with peroxide treated water whenever it is low.


http://www.jasons-indoor-guide-to-organic-and-hydroponics-gardening.com/using-hydrogen-peroxide.html

 

[wyteberrywidow]

subbed......

 

[Dr. Greenhorn]

just got through reading your journal, medimary. it's an awesome read. very informative. I'm subbed to this one and will be eagerly awaiting updates. +rep.

 

[ENDLSCYCLE]

Was wondering how this system was treating you....Thinking about it just the other day....Thanks for the message to get me off my ass and on over here...now I'm sub'd

 

[CHIEF PUFF PUFF]

I'm pulling up a chair for the show, plus I'm curious about your system!

 

[cph]

subbed...

I'll be back to get cought up on whats going on.

 

[PetFlora]

I would ph my water first,(don't make microbes then add base/acid),
IF using tap water let it sit out for a day or two before using it, preferably actively aerating it

DM says to NOT pH water first, and I think this makes sense universally, as your additives and nutes will alter the pH anyway, so do it at the end

hth

 

[MediMary]

DM says to NOT pH water first, and I think this makes sense universally, as your additives and nutes will alter the pH anyway, so do it at the end

hth

Well, first off I don't use DM, never have and never will as I stated earlier.
So thats not really relevant info to me, canna aqua says nothing not ph'ing before hand.

That being said I have experminted with several ways including Ph'ing after adding nutrients.
(I prefer before hand based on my real life experiences, I am not saying one way is correct, but I have much better luck doing it like this).

By ph water first it basically adds one additional step until you figure out how much PH you need to add intially so that when the areation is finished you are in the 5.5 -5.7 range.
I am guessing thats why they say not to, so people arnt doing two steps~ Im not familiar with DM nutrients but I do see how ph'ing the water first would hurt the nurtients . maybe sooo?

The thing about ph'ing everything at the end is, you are putting a very dilute concentrate in the water even by diluting the ph down or up solution with water before adding it, so I figure you would be more likely to have nutrient problems from that, also Madfarmer and several other beneficial microbe makers will also tell you to add microbes only after any acid/base has been added to the solution. I would say ph'ing your water first is more of an advanced technique as it requires more experience.
(this is just my opinions on the mater )

My water comes out of the tap at 6.8 - 7.2, after two days of areation the water will be around 8.2.
If I ph my water before I actively areate the water then the ph will finish up at 5.7, I add the nutrients and my ph will go a tad then lock in an are very stable.

In my experience if you wait to add ph until after you have added nutrients you will have large PH fluctuations which depending on the severity can cause nutrient precipitation, so this works best for me.

 

[jsgamber]

Well, first off I don't use DM, never have and never will as I stated earlier.
So thats not really relevant info to me, canna aqua says nothing not ph'ing before hand.

That being said I have experminted with several ways including Ph'ing after adding nutrients.
(I prefer before hand based on my real life experiences, I am not saying one way is correct, but I have much better luck doing it like this).

By ph water first it basically adds one additional step until you figure out how much PH you need to add intially so that when the areation is finished you are in the 5.5 -5.7 range.
I am guessing thats why they say not to, so people arnt doing two steps~ Im not familiar with DM nutrients but I do see how ph'ing the water first would hurt the nurtients . maybe sooo?

The thing about ph'ing everything at the end is, you are putting a very dilute concentrate in the water even by diluting the ph down or up solution with water before adding it, so I figure you would be more likely to have nutrient problems from that, also Madfarmer and several other beneficial microbe makers will also tell you to add microbes only after any acid/base has been added to the solution. I would say ph'ing your water first is more of an advanced technique as it requires more experience.
(this is just my opinions on the mater )

My water comes out of the tap at 6.8 - 7.2, after two days of areation the water will be around 8.2.
If I ph my water before I actively areate the water then the ph will finish up at 5.7, I add the nutrients and my ph will go a tad then lock in an are very stable.

In my experience if you wait to add ph until after you have added nutrients you will have large PH fluctuations which depending on the severity can cause nutrient precipitation, so this works best for me.

I've been using this Tutorial as my Bible and it's save me!! The link actually takes you directly to the post regarding the authors opinion regarding water, which I've been standing by on principal and also because it's what I have.

===>420 Magazine Tutorial on DWC - Water Opinion <===​

I mix my nutes in 5 gallon buckets starting with unfiltered tap water filled using the spray setting on the nozzle to add in more oxygen. While the water is filling I add in 20ml of GH pH Down (as well at .5ml of chloramine treatment). This settles the water, which comes from the tap at 7.9, down to 6.10 at 16L of water. After the fill I drop an air stone into the bucket and let it breath for about 15 minutes. This let's the pH AND PPM's stabilize. Then I add in my Nutes, which takes me down to around 5.6. Another 15 minutes with the air stones and I'm ready to use or just put a dark lid on the bucket and let it keep aerating until I need to top off. The next day the pH usually rises up to around 6.1 or 6.2 and I use another 5ml of pH Down to get it to 5.8 and from this point on, the pH stays put and maybe rises up to 6.3 by the end of the week, which is actually healthy for the plants to get them to uptake the different nutes at different pH levels:

Hope this is useful!

 

[legallyflying]

Any way we can see a picture of said plants in this system?

 

[Medi 1]

ok found you...need to put an elevator in..dam stairs killed me....along for the ride

 

[MediMary]

Well I got some big changes popping right now.
Wanting to implement some of them a bit earlier but haven't been able to due to health problems but here is a quick picture to wet your whistle.
(dont get in a rush, I ain't going anywhere)

Ill put up a nice picture update this weekend with everything rocking and ill fill you guys in on what I am changing around.

thanks for posting that link up jsgambler, I will def check it out

 

[cannafire]

Take your time MediMary.
Heck I am still reading everything you have posted, thanks again for this amazing thread hope your health gets better.
CF

 

[Medi 1]

havent read all comments but always always ph after addibng everything to the water. also you should dilute the ph solution with a bit of water or it can bind up nutes depending on the strength of the solution. if you see the cloudy as soon as the solution is added that is nutes binding up. some dont do this cause its already diluted in the bottle.

 

[MediMary]

Thats really similar to what I have been doing except I just bring it down once at the beginning, where as he brings it down a couple times at the beginning, interesting thoughts.
If you notice he says his ph rises the second day, thats why I personally aerate the water for 2 days so that it stabilizes.( I havnt tried the cloramine treatment but will def give it a go this round!)

I wonder why Dutch Master zone recommends that you redose your tank every week, as it is a cloramine based product, if it doesn't evaporate why add more? (probably trying to get you to throw money down the toliet)

I mix my nutes in 5 gallon buckets starting with unfiltered tap water filled using the spray setting on the nozzle to add in more oxygen. While the water is filling I add in 20ml of GH pH Down (as well at .5ml of chloramine treatment). This settles the water, which comes from the tap at 7.9, down to 6.10 at 16L of water. After the fill I drop an air stone into the bucket and let it breath for about 15 minutes. This let's the pH AND PPM's stabilize. Then I add in my Nutes, which takes me down to around 5.6. Another 15 minutes with the air stones and I'm ready to use or just put a dark lid on the bucket and let it keep aerating until I need to top off. The next day the pH usually rises up to around 6.1 or 6.2 and I use another 5ml of pH Down to get it to 5.8 and from this point on, the pH stays put and maybe rises up to 6.3 by the end of the week, which is actually healthy for the plants to get them to uptake the different nutes at different pH levels:
Hope this is useful!