But doesn't cooler mean less wear on rotor/pads as well?.They'll just keep em cooler while braking which will help you stop. Look into upgrading your brake booster!
I used drilled and slotted on an 8000lb diesel with 40" tires and I get WAY more than 10-15k... youre doing something wrong lol.Don't put drilled and slotted rotors. You will end up replacing your breaks in 10k-15k just use good parts. Drilled ans slotted rotor are ment for racing not the road. If you must have them (only time you will make this mistake) cheap ones suck bad so don't skimp. Disregard every thing if this is a track car
Thanks all,
This isn't a race car etc., not even close...just a regular vehicle w/only 58K miles.
Problem is I have already replaced both front rotors twice, and even when new the brakes were not all that good. I'm about to install my 4th pair of fronts, something isn't right.
Calipers?.
Rotors wearing thin prematurely and corrosion, including the original factories I'm now going on the 4th set...pads were replaced as well accordingly and the rear rotors have also been replaced...so WTF?.
What is happening to the rotors?
Let's put it this way, I've already had to replace tie rod ends as well around 40K...so defective OEM calipers would be no surprise.Sounds like your pistons are not retracting and you keep pushing them out. At some point the one way piston gasket will come out and leak fluid. I think your issue is in the system. Is the O-ring for the reservoir cap in place ? Is the cap cracked or the threads stripped ? Something is probably causing lack of suction that retracts the piston. It don`t move back much but it must move back or you`ll keep pushing it out til it fails.
WTF happened to that Dodge ?? no... How the F` does that happen ? no....The cat says it all !i