Car Question
- Thread starter Sunbiz1
- Start date
Lurkdewitt
Well-Known Member
They'll just keep em cooler while braking which will help you stop. Look into upgrading your brake booster!
Sunbiz1
Well-Known Member
But doesn't cooler mean less wear on rotor/pads as well?.
qwizoking
Well-Known Member
Slotted rotors provide more bite and actually heat up faster. You want slotted/drilled to allow the extra grip and temps to dissapate quickly or its a waste but heat is required to slow the car, no they eat pads a bit more...here's some better detail on how they work http://www.stoptech.com/technical-s...apers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths..idk figured you might be interested. You generally want to upgrade pads and rotors at the same time....just my 2 cents
dr.tree
Member
Don't put drilled and slotted rotors. You will end up replacing your breaks in 10k-15k just use good parts. Drilled ans slotted rotor are ment for racing not the road. If you must have them (only time you will make this mistake) cheap ones suck bad so don't skimp. Disregard every thing if this is a track car
vacpurge
New Member
I used drilled and slotted on an 8000lb diesel with 40" tires and I get WAY more than 10-15k... youre doing something wrong lol.
Sunbiz1
Well-Known Member
Thanks all,
This isn't a race car etc., not even close...just a regular vehicle w/only 58K miles.
Problem is I have already replaced both front rotors twice, and even when new the brakes were not all that good. I'm about to install my 4th pair of fronts, something isn't right.
Calipers?.
This isn't a race car etc., not even close...just a regular vehicle w/only 58K miles.
Problem is I have already replaced both front rotors twice, and even when new the brakes were not all that good. I'm about to install my 4th pair of fronts, something isn't right.
Calipers?.
ClaytonBigsby
Well-Known Member
Sunbiz1
Well-Known Member
What is happening to the rotors?
Rotors wearing thin prematurely and corrosion, including the original factories I'm now going on the 4th set...pads were replaced as well accordingly and the rear rotors have also been replaced...so WTF?.
That's why I mentioned calipers b/c they are original...and I never cared for the brake performance even when car was new.
ClaytonBigsby
Well-Known Member
Have you checked your master cylinder? Does it feel like the brakes may be applied just a little while driving? At 58k, no warranty?
ClaytonBigsby
Well-Known Member
I've never heard of rotors going bad without failing to replace the pads. I've seen rotors with more grooves than Motown, but not thinning, and 4x withn 58k. That is just insane. I'd take that to the dealer and demand an explanation.
ClaytonBigsby
Well-Known Member
yeah dealers LOVE to fuck people on brakes, its by far the easiest thing to gouge people on... rock in there making a squeal? we better replace all 4 rotors and pads.. thatll be 1100$. thanks bye.
heres rotors from a guy with a dodge 3500...
OddBall1st
Well-Known Member
Sounds like your pistons are not retracting and you keep pushing them out. At some point the one way piston gasket will come out and leak fluid. I think your issue is in the system. Is the O-ring for the reservoir cap in place ? Is the cap cracked or the threads stripped ? Something is probably causing lack of suction that retracts the piston. It don`t move back much but it must move back or you`ll keep pushing it out til it fails.
WTF happened to that Dodge ?? no... How the F` does that happen ? no....The cat says it all !i
WTF happened to that Dodge ?? no... How the F` does that happen ? no....The cat says it all !i
Sunbiz1
Well-Known Member
Let's put it this way, I've already had to replace tie rod ends as well around 40K...so defective OEM calipers would be no surprise.
