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I agree Co2 needs to be consistent, not here and there in unknown quantities. You can pick up a cheap controller on ebay for under 200 bucks. Timed release was the norm for many years. I would only suggest you use Co2 if you are planning on running a sealed room.

Bare bulb. no reflector, halide is a whole different story. I'm specifically talking a 1k hps in my case.

My experience has been that the buds develop better, the pistals are longer when the light is 30-36" away. I observed this while my watercooled 1k was 12-18" away from the tops and the plants in the cheap seats 24-36" away were more developed, healthier and had more density. I dunno, maybe all...

18-24 for 600 and 24-36 for 1ks. Closer isn't always better. You buy a bigger bulb for more coverage. A 1k doesn't get much spread 12" over the tops. If you have a need to keep your lighting fixtures close to the tops stick with floros! Even my water cooled 1ks performed better at 30".

If you are running sealed (which it sounds like you are) Yes.

Seems to me that cloning is 99.9% environment. Get that right and you will soon forget about gels and powders.

For a quick and dirty diy dehumidifier. grab a small window ac and install a drain in the bottom. throw the whole thing in your room and go!

So your air cooling your hood and then adding heat to the environment? Couldn't you simply slow down your inline fan and capture some of the heat from the existing lamp.

They do that in Canada where the water is cold and for the most part plenitiful. If I'm not mistaken they typically use a water cooled air handler. So to do a sealed room wth 3k correctly, your going to have to have some budjet for equipment. You'd have to look long and hard to find someone...

Water cooled AC totally rocks and I wish I had it. With your AC air handlers, your able to run the water temp below the dew point and remove moisture from the air. With ice boxes and small chillers, while theoritically it is possible, it gets real messy with water dripping off the lines etc. so...

In my experience with water cooling. On a smaller scale, much if not all of the effeciency water cooling brings is burned up by adding dehumidification. Ice boxes, even when cooling your room are typically not cold enough to condense and dehumidify. I used fresca sols.

This looks better to me: http://dxhydro.com/#Lighting_Controllers Plus you can have it built to spec. No affiliation, don't even own one. I build my own.

Mostly to AN's bottom line. I personally don't believe their stuff is junk, I do believe it is for the most part over priced and overhyped. Fetilizer isn't rocket science. I duno, the ads in their rosebud catalog read like penis enlargement emails!

I run one the full 8ft table for early veg. Over flowering plants I try not to let the lamp Go outside of it's coverage area. Ie... a 1k covering a 5 x 5 area might move 2.5 ft to either side. They work great.

Also even an older non compatible bulb would work, it would just have a shortened life. You should be replacing your bulbs every 9-12 mos anyway.

Pretty much all NDIR co2 sensors put out a little light energy. The level is very low and does not have enough energy to stimulate your plants.

Pretty much all NEW bulbs are eballast compatible. Some of the older ones couldn't handle the switching ballasts.

Never tried Nova but Eagle 20 was all that I could get to work. Ran 2 cycles with it and changed strains. It is systemic so once a strain has it, it's over. I also understand close proximity to a halide lamp helps control it.

That's totally full strength. I use 3 tblspoons per 5 gallon bucket of water in COCO. Of course an accurate answer depends on the medium and water source.

18-24" has been the sweet spot for me w/600s, 30-36" with 1ks. It's not how much you can hit them with, it's how much coverage you get from your bulb. You should raise your bulb until you find the sweet spot of your reflector, ie where it has the most uniform coverage and intensity over it's...