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Modern e27 LED bulbs are great. If you're in EU you can get the Philips 13w one that puts out 1521 lumens, if you remove the diffuser it's even more efficient. Otherwise in the US you're stuck with 103-110 lm/w Philips bulbs. (which are still great)

Mars 2 panels are worse than DE HPS. Buying generic warm white 100w equivalent LED bulbs and removing the diffuser/bulb section will also yield better results for a lower cost. Edit: Does the image load for others?

Bunch of 8w and 13.5w ones. Heat is fine.

About 100 lumen/watt with a loud as fuck panel. Nicer than the blurples. Decent for the price. Not as cheap as more efficient Philips LED bulbs though.(depends a little on deals though) Probably about the same cost if you include cost of sockets + a bit of wood to act as a panel.

I thought, but nobody even mentioned the vero 29. But then I read that post below me. Yea. A 1212 isn't better than a Vero 29. 1818 may be.

A lot of plants even perform worse on a 24/7 schedule. iirc peppers need a rest period, or they'll grow worse.

Shame CDI doesn't ship to the Netherlands.

Thermal adhesive works. It's epoxy so it won't get loose. Citizen cobs take a high temp very well, but they just fail if the temp is too high.

This is why I'm so hard against CFL these days. I've already seen that generic LED bulbs that are 80-90 lm/w can get the same yield as CFL with only 1/3rd the wattage. Just makes no sense to use CFL anymore.

Shouldn't hurt the drivers and COBs. But it does cost a lot of electricity for very marginal gains.

Wood is just meant as a replacement for aluminium angles. Most of the EB will out in open air.

I guess in a square area a triangle gives slightly more even coverage.

Can be driven higher with the same efficiency of a vero 18, or more efficiently at the same wattage. Less equipment. With a total power draw of around 200W, that's a lot less heat than a 400W HPS. (goes for both Vero and CLU048)

https://www.aavid.com/sites/default/files/products/led/AavidSynJet-Spotlight-Cooler-47W-February-2015.pdf According to the datasheet, if the Synjet is being heated by a 47W element, then the temp of the heatsink will only rise 30 degrees. That's more than enough cooling for the D at 1.4A...

Maybe because for the datasheet they test the chips at 25 degrees. Singling out 1 factor. While in your case you probably used the same heatsink for both V5 and V6. The V6's better thermal resistance and efficiency is reducing the temperature (relative to the V5), which we know increases...

More than with CFL of equivalent wattage. But generic storebought warm white bulbs can already triple cfl yield per watt. Vipersprectra isn't too great though, but for personal use it should yield more than enough.

http://ce.citizen.co.jp/pdf_library/products/2016_led_for_general_lightion_e.pdf Wow, only now I noticed that the Version 6 of Citizen COBs have an increased max case temp. Now up to 120 degrees celcius is allowed up from the already high 105 degrees celcius. Time to screw CLU028s to pieces...

http://ce.citizen.co.jp/lighting_led/dl_data/datasheet/en/COB_5/CLU048-1212C4_P3392_1115.pdf ・Maximum drive current : 2760mA 117.5W as according to the datasheet.

122 lm/w http://www.leds.de/LED-Lampen-Leuchtmittel/Osram-LED-STAR-CLA150-20W-827-matt-E27.html 117 lm/w http://www.leds.de/LED-Lampen-Leuchtmittel/Philips-CorePro-LEDbulb-13-100W-A60-E27-827-matt.html The Cree 16.5W one is 100 lm/w. But it's 85 cri so more efficient than the lm/w would make...

Also before driver losses. So a 1212 at 78W is only as efficient as a Philips 13W (100w equiv) or the 13W/20W Osram parathom.