Search results

Arent LEDs already essentially doing this to begin with? Phosphors glowing from LED irradiation?

I certainly did consider the time it took to raise the temp... and equilibrium wasnt in question because the starting temp on the water was 47*f.

Yeah fridges suck as AC/ Chillers. But you know what doesnt suck and is waaaay cheaper? Window AC units and Dehumidifiers. Each can be easily converted into an amazing chiller at fractions of the cost. Also, its very easy to have your chilling rez separate from nute rez to avoid any...

See, this is what I was expecting, but assuming 50% efficient means only 50% of the watts get dumped as heat into the heatsink, something isnt right. Even with error margins I cant see my numbers being so far off. Granted I dont think Ive ever seen anyone actually test heat vs efficiency, so...

Heh, good luck with that one.

Yeah using HLG 185H 1400. Tested them at 1400ma and 700ma. Each test resulted in the water temp being raised in line with what the actual wattage would suggest. I would assume as much. And I did realize I forgot to add the ~8w pump. Which would equate to roughly a ~10-12% gain... any...

This isn't so much about effectiveNess of heatsinks but the general idea that COBs put out less heat than the wattage draw would imply. Anyone know what the 90cri 3000k vero 29B efficiency is ? Mainly curious from 500ma to 1a. Thanks

So Ive been doing some little experiments with my new COBs before my driver for final light gets here. In doing so I came up with some rather interesting data points that left me questioning some of the info around here. I am using water cooling to cool 2 Vero 29 Bs at 700ma. This comes...

Considering those are listed as non-stock, unless you plan on ordering a minimum of 50, I think you might be waiting forever.

No, but it will have the most efficient effect if you do add airflow. Also, Im not too sure one standard 120mm PC radiator will be enough to cool ~200w. I had a 360mm PC radiator that struggled to keep up with ~150w of LEDs ( it kept the water in the high 90s F).

Consider how fast the competition is moving and cree's price points for comparison.

Youre making a lot of bad assumptions in your formulation of this idea.

Just so you know, you can grow just fine without a chiller. So if youre grow needs "saved" I doubt it is from solely high rez temps. That being said, a window AC unit conversion would be the cheapest and most efficient solution IMO.

So I got 6 Vero 29 Bs and plan on running them off an HLG 320 1050A. It maxes out at 305v but I think in practice I shouldnt be pushing over 300v. I bought the molex connectors because they were cheap and would be a bit more convenient, but now Im wondering whether its 130v or 300v max...

Yes.

Im a fan of this or a converted A/C. Currently in the process of making a chiller out of a small AC. Frozen water jugs are a viable, arduous, alternative.

This needs quoted for importance. Not once did he discuss how the heat was being removed, just that the water blocks were capable of removing 100w of heat. Which may be true, but depends entirely upon how that ~100w of heat is actually REMOVED from the system after it has been added. Hence...

I guess Ive never considered weight when building a light... ever. I would never hang em from something like drywall though lol ;) I would just think the average person is more concerned about cost than weight of their light, that's all. The main advantages I think of when I think of water...

This is where people go terribly wrong with water cooling IMO. This setup you built uses water cooling simply for the sake of water cooling, no real advantage over the typical aluminum heatsink DIYs everyone around here does.

Misleading thread title... lol Lets build an expensive water cooling light...