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Is the Pi specifically just to control humidity or more? If just humidity youd be further ahead simply buying a ~20$ humidity controller online IMO.

I see, useful information. Where did you find that info? I feel like Ive gone over just about every data sheet available on the Vero's and dont recall ever seeing anything referencing that.

If you wire them like they are intended (series) its not THAT hard to go over 300v. More to do with your driver than the COBs youre using... So in other words, we need to know what driver you plan on using before giving you a definitive answer...

I think you need the C version which has high voltage output. HLG-185H-C1400A

When you dim it down it is no longer 200w. amps x volts = watts. In other words itll only be putting out ~100w at 700mA. The 250watt or 320watt version of the same driver might fit those needs though.

PPF doesn't change. Like I said, you can position your lights to get practically any ppfd want. It may be a more valuable measure, but it's pointless in saying this light is better than that light.

The reason why ppf should be used to compare lights. Not ppfd. You can adjust the parameters until you get any data values you want. Also by your claims, should I expect a 400 and 600 watt hps to perform roughly equally?

Sounds like you just want a damper to solve your problem (that isn't really a problem).

To be fair, acting like COBs are magic and less than 90w outperforms a 400-600 HPS is, well, bullshit.

Patience is a virtue... What do you gain by having it done (poorly) a couple days early?

I'm saying unless you plan on using some sort of cool tube, active and passive cooling will each dump the same amount of heat into your tent. Active simply gets the heat away from the lights faster. All of it is going into the tent regardless though.

Active vs passive cooling your lights will each raise your tent the same degree...

How are you planning on driving them?

Heat pipes simply move heat quickly from point A to B, you still have to do something with that heat when it gets to point B. What is wrong with a normal aluminum heatsink without heat pipes? The ones people build on this forum are already quite thin.

Than what? And at what cost?

Considering all the variables present, why not focus on the "best" results to more accurately find an "optimal" line? Its not like its going to change the integrity of the results that much, as it didnt have a whole lot to begin with.

These threads are sooooo fucking pointless... but I do like em lol.

From the research Ive done on this topic, flowering time increases with this methodology as opposed to shortening it. But you should definitely get extra weight. Just a heads up.

Why? Thats a serious question...

Do you have any idea on how plants actually grow? Like how they metabolize nutrients etc? Theres no logic in "smoking chemical shit".