Search results

Fluence Spidr is great. You can do cheaper (Fluence is a professional company though), but it's great. Also while they have given their spectrum a fancy name it just seems like a combination of white 4000K LEDs and high CRI 2700/3000K LEDs. Their earlier lights were blurple, so I guess they...

And Blackdog Led is posting shit like "the efficiency" myth and other sketchy shit. They also proudly post some 7 ounce grow from their 215 watt light, which is 0.9g/w. But cheap LED bulbs can achieve the same yield. (more actually). Most LED makers are overpricing their shit, and many of...

I really hate the time it takes for pepper seeds to germinate. Also tried nicking some with a nail clipper to see if that works. Seeds may also be bad ones and I may have to get new ones. Edit: And don't pick your nose after dealing with hot pepper seeds.

The Blackdog led is less efficient than a DE HPS It only puts out 1 umol/j (CLU048s at 50 watt each should put 2+ umol/j) http://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0099010 So just don't buy one, maybe if they were less than a dollar per watt but then I'd just buy some...

Looks like a shill.

400 watt VeroV7 framework is good. Or 5 QB at 100 watt each or so.

That Chinese led isn't cheap. 30 euro for a "50 watt led" is expensive. A Citizen chip that can do 250W is cheaper actualy. (CLU048 1818) I have a very easy time finding LEDs way cheaper than a generic epistar/epiled chink crap...

Probably the new Vero v7 or 1818. But the differences are all small. Except that the Cree cob is clearly the most expensive. It's enough for 1m^2. Normally 30-50watt per square foot is recommended (330-550 per m2) But with those cobs you can get away with 20 watt per square foot.

The newer gen Vero 29s are slightly more efficient than the 3590. And cheaper.

http://www.htgsupply.com/products/agromax-pure-uv-t5-bulb-4-foot

The advantage of cobs is that it can put out the same amount of light with less wattage. So for example a current gen 600 watt COB panel can give the same yield as a 1000 watt HPS. So 400 watt heat savings.(and electricity) But if you use 1000 watt of COBs to replace a 1000 watt HPS, you will...

Yes. And you have to upgrade it every year for a 7% increase in POWAH

With some lights it's very easy to get the cover off. Otherwise you'll need cutting pliers or a hacksaw. (Hacksaw can get some of the plastic on the leds which isn't ideal) It also works with the diffuser still on, just not as great. I guess 80 watts should be enough to maintain a mother...

In a closed environment with no light leaking outside, yes. What do you think happens with light that doesn't get reflected (and isn't used for photosynthesis), it turns into heat. And since no material is 100% reflective, eventually all light ends up as heat. (If it doesn't get used for...

Because it has an x amount of LEDs that can potentially be driven at 3 watt each which would make it "138" watt. But actually it's only "--Higher actual wattage/Lumen output than others: 55W±3%" Direct quote from their amazon page. It grows, but every light grows. It isn't very efficient though.

Most will look something like this.

The distribution shouldn't make any significant difference.

315 LEC is a great light.

I really wouldn't run 200 watt at that small space. 2x50 watt with 3590s is already about as high as you should go during flowering. In that space. Unless you're running extra CO2. 200 watt is too much, even with CO2. Did the bulbs burn the plant? With light height you should generally start...

30-50 watt per square foot. Though if you're going with more expensive COBs you can go down to 20-25watt per square foot. You could also use LED bulbs for that space, either with or without the diffuser still attached. Philips LED bulbs are pretty cheap and the ones that are at least 100-105...