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yeah I know that, but how soon after they show can they start to release pollen?

I had some 2" plants, unknown strain, grown inside that I put outside 8 days ago. They had no flowers visible to the naked eye then, and now I have some I think are male. What is the soonest a male could release, after starting 13/11 for flowering? I know one can't be too scientific about it...

eh no, try something around 6500k for proper growth spectrum - $150 will get you a 400 watt digital ballast and full spectrum bulb from hidhut for example.

but the sun doesn't magically turn red in the fall (flowering season) - maybe you change to 1:1 blue/red led if you want, but the spectrum on a 2700k cfl is crap - yes lots of red but way more waste green/yellow. And if you overdo the red, your plants grow too tall, too fast. This is a problem...

am I crazy to try to do a small outside grow this late at 35N latitude? The seedlings already have 4 leaves so it's not like I haven't started.. I just didn't want these guys crowding my 2 footers inside. I could just scrap them if it is not worth the effort.

yeah I doubt that - where are the pics? ;) Here's the deal - cfl = ~60 lumens per watt, mh = ~80 lumens per watt, i.e. more electricity gets converted into light. All electricity not converted will be radiated as heat energy, so that means the CFL will be hotter than equivalent wattage HID by...

just for some real-world perspective, I "probably" could have vegged (albeit at a slowed pace) two 2 foot plants under my 100w daylight, but there is no way it would have powered a proper flowering, i.e. you are gonna need more red/blue than a 100watt fluorex daylight produces (or any...

yes, the purple nlite could be your "base" light; all I am saying is a 200+ watt cfl will be just as hot or hotter than a 250 watt mh, so if you can't handle the heat, we come back full circle to led's ;) If you can, then just keep it simple and get the mh I am thinking you could go up to 100...

not at walmart, thats for sure - nlites USA | Contact nlites USA ask for US distributors. Keep in mind if you get a 200-250 watt purple nlite, you might as well look at the hortilux blue 250 watt

PURple for the highest quality - more good light education here, they also make a killer grow cfl

bottom line, with the three blue, two red, 2 daylight cfl setup, you will have at least as much growing power as a 100watt cfl w/o the extra heat. Plus, you will have the opportunity to double the roof led count and add equal amounts to the sides without worrying that you will come back from...

That is the paradox... the answer is there is no simple way to go to websites that sell lights and see which one is the best - marketing is stuck in the lumens/watts mentality and this will not change until consumers become more educated... To judge lights, first stop looking at it as a...

Spectral Power Distribution Curves - If you look at the spectrum of a daylight cfl, you will see that only ~10% of the light is blue. 5% is red, and the rest is green/yellow. 10% of 27 watts = < 2.7 watts going into blue production (because CFL is not 100% efficient). Whereas with the LED, you...

1.6:1 = 60:40 = ratio of blue light to red light

read the photosynthesis and red vs blue links, then I will be happy to answer any of your questions .. I assure you there is a coherent flow to my posts, they don't go back and forth, there is just a lot of info scattered amongst them.

actually, now that you have said you will use 200 watts with built-in ballasts, you might as well look at a 250w hortilux blue mh with external ballast and solve all your problems. You could add supplemental LEDs later in flowering if needed.

why does it matter how many bulbs, other than initial cost? if they run cooler and produce better growth, then why not? Plus, let's say you get 2x100 watts in there, trust me, you will still want more but will not be able to add it. The question you want to answer is: say with a 27 watt CFL...

200 watts will be some so much radiant, unventable heat, that it is probably undoable. Maybe a 100watt + 2 blue led and 1 red, then add more led as the plants get bigger. Or if you really, really insist on CFLs (tried and true, can't hate if you do), maybe you could make the bulbs into external...

but none of the watts are put into excessive green/yellow wavelength spikes like a cfl. Thing is, if the LEDs aren't going to work, you will be venting excess heat from green/yellow spectrum production, and will be getting very little intense blue/red wavelengths = slow, lackluster, scorched...

OK I am just going to speculate here... this is based on my intuition and knowledge of spectrum and photosynthesis, not my personal experience with LED ... anyway first, my motivation for this is I want to see how well this works from someone with more than half a brain and I just sunk all the...