250w HPS Club And Help Guide

Doobieus

Well-Known Member
Thanks for all of the positive comments you all, much appreciated. I think I'm going to do a few and then see which one gets the most votes and that will be the main club banner, but at the same point everyone can use whichever banner they like most or hell even sport one that they made for themselves.

I will also put some code up for you all to put the banner linked to the first 250 club page when everything is said and done. This way you can put it into your signatures and anyone who sees your post and has questions about a 250 will get directed here when they click on the banner =].

The next banner design coming up will have a kind of urban meets nature feel to it. I'm trying to make our banner stick out more than a traditional banner design.
 

Doobieus

Well-Known Member
Here's the second banner, same font but I like it. The font has small cannabis leaves in it, and kind of looks like a bulb lol. Like I said kind of urban meets nature, urban with the city skyline and person watering the plant and nature with the roots on the bottom and the plant. Let me know what you all think.

250club banner 2.png
 

GreenGrower14

Active Member
Here's the second banner, same font but I like it. The font has small cannabis leaves in it, and kind of looks like a bulb lol. Like I said kind of urban meets nature, urban with the city skyline and person watering the plant and nature with the roots on the bottom and the plant. Let me know what you all think.

View attachment 1813479
this is awsome doob this one is the front runner for me so far keep up the good work
 

7cotton7

Well-Known Member
Here's the second banner, same font but I like it. The font has small cannabis leaves in it, and kind of looks like a bulb lol. Like I said kind of urban meets nature, urban with the city skyline and person watering the plant and nature with the roots on the bottom and the plant. Let me know what you all think.

View attachment 1813479
I like this one
 

Grazzmon

Well-Known Member
I have 2 seedlings going and they are looking strange. The leaves are kinda "fluffy"? They are at day 10 under 312 watts of Daylight CFL's (6500K). Just giving them water atm.. maybe I'm just spending too much time looking at them..lolP1000743.jpgP1000745.jpgP1000744.jpgP1000742.jpg

Grazz

Doob, my vote is for the second Banner.. looks awesome!
 

Kalebaiden

Well-Known Member
I have 2 seedlings going and they are looking strange. The leaves are kinda "fluffy"? They are at day 10 under 312 watts of Daylight CFL's (6500K). Just giving them water atm.. maybe I'm just spending too much time looking at them..lol
CFLs? While I use CFLs in my stealth box, I found that no matter how many I used I couldn't match the photopenetration of a MH/HPS.


As for the votes on the club logo, why do we need just one? Many logos offer more choices and more people may choose to use one to represent the club. I say instead of using just one, we gather copies of all the logos and place them in a sticky (once there's 5-10 of them) and let people choose how they wish to represent.

This is just my thoughts, feel free to add to my idea.
 

Grazzmon

Well-Known Member
Just found this info.. anyone here ever try this?

Grazz


Converting an HPS Ballast into a Switchable MH/HPS Ballast
============================================

Please note - this can only be done with an HPS Ballast. If you are not comfortable with basic electrical work and concepts then I do not recommend you do this. Please take appropriate precautions when doing this type of work and when testing your results.

HPS and MH Lights both use the same Autotransformer Ballasts, the only difference between the two lights, is the addition of an "Igniter" module to the HPS, to actually start the HPS bulb. Because of this you can easily and safely convert your HPS light to a Switchable light.

This takes about 30 minutes to do. You will need the following:

1. Pair of Wire Clippers (may not be needed, depends on light manufacturer)
2. Wire Twist Nuts (2, maybe 4)
3. Dual Pole, Single Throw switch from Home Depot (optional)
4. Approx. 2 feet (depending on ballast design) of #12 copper wire

-----------------------------
Details:

In the above pictures, you will note that an HPS has 3 components, and an MH has 2. The Autotransforming Ballast and the CAP are common to both types of Light assembly. The third piece that is only present in the HPS assembly, is the Igniter module.

Coming out of the Igniter there should be 3 wires, labeled X1LAMP, X2COM and X3 or something similar. If these are not labeled as such or similar, STOP! Your light is non-standard and unless you are a certified Electrician, you should consult one before continuing.

If you trace the X1 and X2 wires back, you will see X1 goes to a 3-wire connection between the Transformer and the Light Socket, and the X2 leads to a 3-wire connection also going between the Transformer and the Light Socket. These are the two leads you want to disconnect.

There are two ways to do this:

1st way: you can make it a semi-permanent conversion from HPS to MH, if you want to switch back, you have to open up your ballast again and reconnect the X1 and X2 leads.

2nd way: install a dual pole/single throw switch in X1 and X2, and you now have an on demand, switchable ballast.


Option 1:
1.Unplug the light! I recommend it having been unplugged for several hours before working on it.
2.Disconnect the X1 and X2 wires from the 3-wire connection spots by untwisting the wire nuts.
3.Retwist the wires back together, and re-cap with the wire nut as you do this.
4.Place one (1) new wire nut on the X1 lead coming out of the igniter to cap it so it does not short. Do the same with the X2 lead coming out of the igniter.

You’re done - your ballast will now run a same wattage MH bulb. To change back, reconnect the X1 and X2 leads coming out of the igniter to the respective X1 and X2 leads you disconnected them from.


Option 2:
1. Unplug the light!
2. Find a place to mount your switch. I used a pair of tin snips to cut a small 1"x1/2" hole in mine since the metal was thin and the switch just pushed into it. I do not recommend letting the switch hang out a hole or something. This is high voltage and that is inviting disaster.
3. After you have your switch mounted, cut your spare wire into two leads long enough to run from the switch to where the 3-wire connections are. ** NOTE ** Your spare wire should be the same gauge (thickness) as the wire that is already being used in the lights wiring.
4. Strip your ends and connect one end of each wire to each side of the same pole on your dual pole switch.
5. Locate the X1 lead from the Igniter and trace it back to the 3-wire connection.
6. Remove the wire nut and untwist the X1 lead from the other 2 wires.
7. Connect the X1 Igniter lead to one of the two remaining connection points on your switch.
8. Take the wire you attached to the same side of the opposite pole on your switch, and connect the other end of it to where you just took the X1 Igniter lead from, twist all three wires together.
9. Twist the wire nut onto these 3 wires to remake the 3-wire connection.
10. Do the same process with the X2 Igniter lead.

You’re done - close everything back up and you now have switchable ballast.

Disclaimer: I found this information on the web, if you choose to modify your ballast do so at your own risk. The article also recommends testing the fixture in an outdoor location before use.
 

Grazzmon

Well-Known Member
CFLs? While I use CFLs in my stealth box, I found that no matter how many I used I couldn't match the photopenetration of a MH/HPS...
I've had decent results using CFL's for veg then switching to my 250 HPS for flowering. The 312 watts are CFL wattage (12 * 26 watt Daylight CFL's). I just picked up a 400 watt MH Ballast kit and will be using that within the next week or so. I came across that article about making the HPS Ballast "switchable" after I had already purchased the 400 MH or I would have just tried that modification.

Grazz
 

Kalebaiden

Well-Known Member
I haven't tried switching a single use ballast to a dual use ballast before. I've heard of it but i'll never try it since my electrical skills lack considerably.

By trade I'm an environmental guru, with knowledge of topics ranging from alternative energy resources to zygomatic arches of mamalian physiology and everything inbetween. My specialty is a toss up between vascular plants and parasitology with minors in environmental law and sustainable development.

I have seen some explosive pictures about botched ballast jobs, so I recomend doing a healthy ammount of research before changing your ballast yourself.
 

Grazzmon

Well-Known Member
I have seen some explosive pictures about botched ballast jobs, so I recomend doing a healthy ammount of research before changing your ballast yourself.
Well since I have the 400 MH kit coming I will most likely not modify my HPS Ballast, it does seem pretty straight forward though. Just add a switch for the igniter.. One thing that was in the article that I will add to my post was the suggestion to "Test the modification in an outdoor location"

Grazz
 

Doobieus

Well-Known Member
I have 2 seedlings going and they are looking strange. The leaves are kinda "fluffy"? They are at day 10 under 312 watts of Daylight CFL's (6500K). Just giving them water atm.. maybe I'm just spending too much time looking at them..lol

Grazz

Doob, my vote is for the second Banner.. looks awesome!
Thanks Grazz, and I think you're watching them too much lol they look fine to me.

I have one more banner but I think the 2nd one is going to be the winner.

CFLs? While I use CFLs in my stealth box, I found that no matter how many I used I couldn't match the photopenetration of a MH/HPS.


As for the votes on the club logo, why do we need just one? Many logos offer more choices and more people may choose to use one to represent the club. I say instead of using just one, we gather copies of all the logos and place them in a sticky (once there's 5-10 of them) and let people choose how they wish to represent.

This is just my thoughts, feel free to add to my idea.
You can't really match the light penetration no, BUT you can place in multiple spots and adjust consistently (Pain in the ass). T5's are the better route if going with fluorescent lighting. For clones/seedlings, supplement and a small veg cab CFL's still work but again T5's are way better and cooler.

"I think I'm going to do a few and then see which one gets the most votes and that will be the main club banner, but at the same point everyone can use whichever banner they like most or hell even sport one that they made for themselves."

A general banner is always nice, and if the club members vote on which they like best I think that it should be the main. As I said before, you guys can use whichever it doesn't matter to me one way or another. I just thought it'd be fun to do a vote. I don't think the 250 club banners really qualify as sticky thread material for the indoor growing section. I suppose someone can make a request if they wanted and see if the moderators or Rollie think it's a fit sticky thread.
 

Doobieus

Well-Known Member
Here are the 3 designs I came up with, I took out the HPS in the first design. Comments and votes welcome :bigjoint:!!

250club banner.png

250club banner 2.png250club banner3.png

 

Doobieus

Well-Known Member
[420URL="https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/128751-250w-hps-club-help-guide.html"] [420/URL]

Put this around both SIGPIC's to link the banner to the club, take all of the 420's out. I had to put in the 420's to make it show properly, so you all could copy/paste it.

If you want a tool tip on the banner (The tiny pop up message when you hover over a link) type what ever message you want between the SIGPIC's.

Linked banner without tool tip:
[420URL="https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/128751-250w-hps-club-help-guide.html"] [420SIGPIC][420/SIGPIC][420/URL]

Linked banner with tool tip:
[420URL="https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/128751-250w-hps-club-help-guide.html"] [420SIGPIC]Put message here.[420/SIGPIC][420/URL]

Remember take all of the 420's out or it will not show up properly.
 
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