4000W no AC

Sunbiz1

Well-Known Member
No I can't. But thanks fellas, it looks like I'm gonna have to go with an AC. I'm gonna try and get away with a 10,000-12,000 BTU.
Looks we're all working on similar issues today, let me know what you come up with. The cheapest portable A/C unit I have found in that range thus far is around $500 plus shipping.
 

Sunbiz1

Well-Known Member
I battled heat in an 11x11 room w/ 4 600s and batwing reflectors.went thru a window unit and two stand alone air conditioners before i got a set of air cooled sealed reflectors and went with a dual tube 1400btu a.c. and my same old 8in vortex fan...have a 6in pulling in and the 8in pulling out (is split to the veg room and does its job exhausting both)..my problem was I put the exhaust from the a.c. through the floor(heat rises) and it negated the a.c.'s. ability to cool itself and the 4 lights...my point is:: exaust ALL heat effectivly...sealed hoods,the a.c.(if possible a mini split,has no heat brought in the room),and inline fans need to be bigger than you estimate..as far as co2, go with a bottle,maybe two with that size room..a burner will cause more trouble (and worry) in a room that size..burners should be used for 20x20 rooms I would imagine
Jesus, so let me get this straight. You needed 3 individual units running simultaneously to cool an 11 sq ft area w/4 600 HPS units?.

Damn, if that's the case I'm going to have to re-think my approach.
 

legaleyes13

Well-Known Member
Okay, to be even more clear than before, the reason I don't want to use an AC is because of the amount of electricity I'm going to be using. Let's say I go with a 5,000 BTU window unit that runs at 625 watts, pluss 4,450 watts worth of lights, I'm up at 5,075watts worth of electricity plus miscellaneous. I can keep the electricity I use around the house very low, but...I don't know anything about the way breakers work and while I'm almost positive the house can handle a 5000 watt load, I'm not sure if the outlets in the basement alone can (if this makes any sense). If you have knowledge on this stuff, feel free to enlighten me.
 

THE KONASSURE

Well-Known Member
Ok I got my AC for £100 and it works fine I had a 1200btu unit for like 3 or 4 years and it finally crapped out last summer then I got some other make from Currys for £79 it broke 4 or 5 months later so I took it back they refunded me for £279 so I made £200 then I got another aircon for £100 so I`m still around £70 up from buying aircon units, lol

Your main ring should be set up for 20amps if its uk spac but each plug will only hold 13amp, so 220v can take around 3000w max per plug but you can draw 4400w off of most rings easy then if you have a 30amp breaker you can draw around 7000w for 110v you will need 60amp fuses also hps runs using 410 to 440v approx so it will always draw a fair bit.

You could save power by the 12:1 system someone else has posted up and flowering under 11/13 would cut cost

12:1 veg

12 on 5.5 off 1 on 5.5off

instead of running 16 to 20 hours for veg you only use 13 that should save you a big ball of cash, ?
 

legaleyes13

Well-Known Member
Ok I got my AC for £100 and it works fine I had a 1200btu unit for like 3 or 4 years and it finally crapped out last summer then I got some other make from Currys for £79 it broke 4 or 5 months later so I took it back they refunded me for £279 so I made £200 then I got another aircon for £100 so I`m still around £70 up from buying aircon units, lolYour main ring should be set up for 20amps if its uk spac but each plug will only hold 13amp, so 220v can take around 3000w max per plug but you can draw 4400w off of most rings easy then if you have a 30amp breaker you can draw around 7000w for 110v you will need 60amp fuses also hps runs using 410 to 440v approx so it will always draw a fair bit.You could save power by the 12:1 system someone else has posted up and flowering under 11/13 would cut cost12:1 veg12 on 5.5 off 1 on 5.5off instead of running 16 to 20 hours for veg you only use 13 that should save you a big ball of cash, ?
Thanks man, I appreciate your help. While I don't understand some of the terminology (like I said, I'm completely ignorant to electrical jargon) I think I understand enough to know that I'll be fine as long as I have enough outlets? However, I'm in the US not the UK. Are 30amp breakers common and is it likely that I already have one (same question for 60amp fuses).And I'm completely lost with the 12:1 system and the 11/13 flowering method. If you could elaborate, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks again.
 

legaleyes13

Well-Known Member
Okay, I just read it again, and I think I understand the 12:1 system, but wouldn't that effect the health, growth and/or vigor of veg plants?For the record, I'd only be vegging my mothers.
 

Grow4tho187

Well-Known Member
If it's winter where you are atm , you wont need an a/c ... as long as you have air intake blowing cold air from outdoors in your room . In the summer tho you wont have a choice but to use an a/c , if u cant get a window unit ... I suggest to get a portable unit 'caution' It's important to have the portable unit outside the room blowing inside the room or els the hot air coming out of the a/c's 4or6'' ducting will stink . other solution ... Buy a portable a/c with air intake ducting and air out take ducting like that u can buy a small carbon filter and install it on the intake of the a/c. sounds complicated but it's not really lol works fine
 

legaleyes13

Well-Known Member
If it's winter where you are atm , you wont need an a/c ... as long as you have air intake blowing cold air from outdoors in your room . In the summer tho you wont have a choice but to use an a/c , if u cant get a window unit ... I suggest to get a portable unit 'caution' It's important to have the portable unit outside the room blowing inside the room or els the hot air coming out of the a/c's 4or6'' ducting will stink . other solution ... Buy a portable a/c with air intake ducting and air out take ducting like that u can buy a small carbon filter and install it on the intake of the a/c. sounds complicated but it's not really lol works fine
Thanks man, but not possible. The room is gonna be sealed.
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
you are going to be HATING it if you build that set-up with no AC. Even if your plants don't get roasted, they are going to stretch like fucking mad men. Some think that if you can't control temps you should just run co2. Co2 is awesome, and you can run hotter temps, but not that much hotter, especially in the last 2-3 weeks. You will loose allot of bud quality if it is above 80 during that time.

I have 3600 AC hoods in a 12x9 room with a dehu and water cooled burner. my 12k mini split barely keeps up. It works great and I can get temps where I need them, but it runs constantly.

I can also tell you, that unless you live in the desert or something; if you start running cold air (less than 40f) through your hood ducting, its going to start raining in your flower room with all the condensate because the warm moist air in your room will condense on the cold ducting. There is no way around that physics problem and I ahve tried ALL the solutions.
 

legaleyes13

Well-Known Member
you are going to be HATING it if you build that set-up with no AC. Even if your plants don't get roasted, they are going to stretch like fucking mad men. Some think that if you can't control temps you should just run co2. Co2 is awesome, and you can run hotter temps, but not that much hotter, especially in the last 2-3 weeks. You will loose allot of bud quality if it is above 80 during that time. I have 3600 AC hoods in a 12x9 room with a dehu and water cooled burner. my 12k mini split barely keeps up. It works great and I can get temps where I need them, but it runs constantly. I can also tell you, that unless you live in the desert or something; if you start running cold air (less than 40f) through your hood ducting, its going to start raining in your flower room with all the condensate because the warm moist air in your room will condense on the cold ducting. There is no way around that physics problem and I ahve tried ALL the solutions.
I'm doing a perpetual sog with all of my flowering trays in the same room so I'll always be in the last 2-3 weeks of flower, as I'll always be in the first 2-3 weeks and the middle 2-3 weeks. No way around it. Any suggestions?
 

superstoner1

Well-Known Member
same here, i run perpetual. the whole idea of indoor growing is environment control, and you will not have it at all without ac.
and well said, legallyflying
 

rory420420

Well-Known Member
What I was saying is I went through 3 a.c. units over the summer because they were working overtime and died prematurely...as far as a good equation,you need 3 btu's of a.c. per watt of high intensity light...for me it was 2,400 watts of light...so 2,400 X 3 =7200btu needed to cool with ambient temps at 70degrees f.
I over compensated with 2400 btu a.c. for the summer months where I live(hot)..after all was done I still took out the 1000watt hood from my veg room and replaced with t5s for a lower ambient temp throughout the grow's actual building...the only option for you other than (yes its inefficient) a dual tube portable a.c., is a mini split a.c...they require a little knowledge of hvac installation,and certain tools if its isn't a precharged kit,not to mention the tools required usually come with a permit to use them,so if you don't know a professional certified hvac man that smokes and knows you grow...well that kinda negates a secret I suppose..as far as amperage question, almost all home breakers run on 15amp circuits..so you can plug 1800watts on one circ
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
Yeah, what he said about sizing ^^ 3k per 1k of light if air cooled hoods. More towards 4k when you start burning co2 and have non-AC cooled hoods.
 

rory420420

Well-Known Member
Sry..I'm stoned...so u can plug 1800watts into a circut (safely,if the wire is reglated for 15amps)..if you have a 120amp breaker it does you no good if the wire isn't regulated for that much power..the breaker is for safety,if too much power is applied to a certain size wire,the breaker trips and shuts off power so the wires don't overheat and start a fire..you really need to calculate ALL the power that will be consumed at any time,and apply the total watts use to the size breaker you will be plugging all your equipment into..believe me..all this was mumbo jumbo till I got in the game..its a fact you should have a basic understanding of circuts and electricity before you start a grow..if you can't understand...google it...
 
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