CXB3590 DIY Build and Grow

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DarthBlazeAnthony

Well-Known Member
kony brado said:
from the hlg ac side u need to connect the ground wire to the plug and also a wire that goes to the sink and connect to it,using a screw and a ring like this kind .
http://www.amazon.com/Shipping-Insulated-Connector-Electrical-Terminal/dp/B00FZK910K/ref=sr_1_56?ie=UTF8&qid=1454457803&sr=8-56&keywords=wire+connectors
fo the junction between the ac ground the wall plug ground and heat sink ground wire u can use a terminal or wago connector 3 way .like this one

http://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B000JJPA66/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1454458142&sr=8-3&keywords=wago+connectors

i hope that helps,sorry for my poor english :oops::bigjoint:
Click to expand...
I have the 3 way wago connectors inbound. Will I still need to order the other connectors?
 
Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
u start the green wire at your HS bolt it down, now run that same green wire to the center GRD male, the solid one not the spades in the male wall plug is the GRD circuit
slice/terminal that into your plug wire's green GRD wire !
It's that simple ,
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Hey smart! Especially with my build I'm mounting my drivers to flat bars on either side. You can see in the pic where they'll go. I'll just cut a little piece of the green out (inline splice) to add a 1" wire with a ring connection on it to bolt down. Then follow the green leads together with the other driver and finally to the wall plug. Boo ya.20160130_144634.jpg
 
Future Skills

Future Skills

Member
kony brado said:
from the hlg ac side u need to connect the ground wire to the plug and also a wire that goes to the sink and connect to it,using a screw and a ring like this kind .
http://www.amazon.com/Shipping-Insulated-Connector-Electrical-Terminal/dp/B00FZK910K/ref=sr_1_56?ie=UTF8&qid=1454457803&sr=8-56&keywords=wire+connectors
fo the junction between the ac ground the wall plug ground and heat sink ground wire u can use a terminal or wago connector 3 way .like this one

http://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B000JJPA66/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1454458142&sr=8-3&keywords=wago+connectors

i hope that helps,sorry for my poor english :oops::bigjoint:
Click to expand...
Thanks this is extremely helpful. I'm going to ground them all now.
 
K

kony brado

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
Is this the real true way to ground?
Green wire to the wall ground, and also running another wire inline splice, "T" off, to the heatsink screwed down to the ring connector? Grounded twice?
Click to expand...
yep..the real way and very simple:D
its not grounded twice its the same ,one ground the driver(metal frame)and the other the sink,grounding is only for bare metal parts,if u had a plastic sink it wouldn't be needed because its nod conductive :bigjoint:
 
K

kony brado

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
Hey smart! Especially with my build I'm mounting my drivers to flat bars on either side. You can see in the pic where they'll go. I'll just cut a little piece of the green out (inline splice) to add a 1" wire with a ring connection on it to bolt down. Then follow the green leads together with the other driver and finally to the wall plug. Boo ya.View attachment 3599819
Click to expand...
thats the way to do it:smile:
DarthBlazeAnthony said:
I have the 3 way wago connectors inbound. Will I still need to order the other connectors?
Click to expand...
i use the 2 way for dc side connection and 5 way to connect 4 light bars to one plug:hump:

Future Skills said:
Thanks this is extremely helpful. I'm going to ground them all now.
Click to expand...
welcome and pleas do,its much safer:smile:
 
F

flexy123

Well-Known Member
Not wanting to come across like an ass, but seeing people needing to ask basic questions about grounding makes me think those folks shouldn't possibly build a light. We're working with possibly DEADLY voltages here, folks.

As for grounding, I had my MeanWell driver bolted to the heatsink and this then provides ground from the driver (which is connected with a 3-pin to the mains) to the heatsink.

Now I rearranged my custom-built light and moved the driver so I can place another fan, aka I unbolted the driver from the heat sink and needed provide a new ground. (I was assuming I can easily grab GND from the driver case, on the sides with the mounting holes)

The casing/side with the holes of the driver (where you can take ground from) is NOT conductive without sanding first, only at/inside the mounting holes on the side. There seems only be a valid GND connection when you put a screw and a bolt in there. Don't blindly depend that it works if you connect ground there!

Which means I'd recommend if you connect a screw (to grab GND) at the sides of the drivers where the holes are, you should sand this area around the mounting holes, make sure the connection works and possibly also put solder on there, before you connect your GND wire and screws. (See picture, where I marked it orange, this is where you should sand it off). (That the drivers don't have a "proper" extra connector where you can grab GND somewhat surprised me, honestly.)
 

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Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
flexy123 said:
Not wanting to come across like an ass, but seeing people needing to ask basic questions about grounding makes me think those folks shouldn't possibly build a light. We're working with possibly DEADLY voltages here, folks.

As for grounding, I had my MeanWell driver bolted to the heatsink and this then provides ground from the driver (which is connected with a 3-pin to the mains) to the heatsink.

Now I rearranged my custom-built light and moved the driver so I can place another fan, aka I unbolted the driver from the heat sink and needed provide a new ground.

The casing of the driver (where I take the ground from) is NOT conductive, only at the mounting holes on the side. There seems only be a valid GND connection when you put a screw and a bolt in there. I would not blindly depend that it works if you connect ground there.

Which means I'd recommend if you connect a screw (to get GND) at the sides of the drivers where the holes are, you should probably SAND this, make sure the connection works and possibly also put solder on there, before you connect your GND wire and screws. (See picture, where I marked it orange, this is where you should sand it off). (That the drivers don't have a "proper" extra connector where there is GND somewhat surprised me, honestly.)
Click to expand...
I'm just going to mount the ground to my aluminum flat bar that my drivers are also bolted to.
 
K

kony brado

Well-Known Member
DarthBlazeAnthony said:
a 5 way wago connector? I only ordered 2's and 3's. Can you take a photo?
Click to expand...
there u go:smile:

http://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-415-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B01AO24OQY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1454537856&sr=8-2&keywords=wago+connectors

flexy123 said:
Not wanting to come across like an ass, but seeing people needing to ask basic questions about grounding makes me think those folks shouldn't possibly build a light. We're working with possibly DEADLY voltages here, folks.

As for grounding, I had my MeanWell driver bolted to the heatsink and this then provides ground from the driver (which is connected with a 3-pin to the mains) to the heatsink.

Now I rearranged my custom-built light and moved the driver so I can place another fan, aka I unbolted the driver from the heat sink and needed provide a new ground. (I was assuming I can easily grab GND from the driver case, on the sides with the mounting holes)

The casing/side with the holes of the driver (where you can take ground from) is NOT conductive without sanding first, only at/inside the mounting holes on the side. There seems only be a valid GND connection when you put a screw and a bolt in there. Don't blindly depend that it works if you connect ground there!

Which means I'd recommend if you connect a screw (to grab GND) at the sides of the drivers where the holes are, you should sand this area around the mounting holes, make sure the connection works and possibly also put solder on there, before you connect your GND wire and screws. (See picture, where I marked it orange, this is where you should sand it off). (That the drivers don't have a "proper" extra connector where you can grab GND somewhat surprised me, honestly.)
Click to expand...

You are right about the driver,sins it is anodized,it dose not conduct (or less conductive) this is why u should ground the sinks anyway.
i think its better to send the connection point with the sink and grounding as well sins most heat sinks are anodized . :smile:
 
Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
IF one uses a self tapping screw into anodized AL the threads alone will be enuff contact just use a screw w/ washer & terminal end on the GRD wire
You guys are Over thinking it alittle
why scuff up that expensive finish For No Reason ?
 
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K

kony brado

Well-Known Member
Fastslappy said:
IF one uses a self tapping screw into anodized AL the threads alone will be enuff contact just use a screw w/ washer & terminal end on the GRD wire
You guys are Over Thinking iIT !
why scuff up that expensive finish For No Reason ?
Click to expand...
i think being safe is a good reason to sand the 5x5 mm connection point of the anodized finish,but thats only me:peace::bigjoint:
i do agree about the washer thou .
:hump:
 
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