Dear Breeder Steve, (Pics included)(NEED ADVISE FROM EVERYONE)
- Thread starter max316420
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max316420
Well-Known Member
The humidity in the environment is the amount of water vapor present in the air. Most growers know that humidity in excess of 85% percent increases the probability of the appearance of bud mold. The humidity is also critical during germination when the seedlings are extremely fragile. Humidity should be kept over 80% at this stage in the plants life to prevent the soil from drying too fast. Experimentation has shown that a relative humidity of 65% to 80% increases growth rate. Below this level the plants develop extremely narrow and tissue paper thin leaves to try to prevent excess loss of water. Above 80% relative humidity the plant have trouble disposing of toxic chemicals through evaporation.
oreganics
Active Member
Without proper transpiration the plant cant and wont use nutrients. It's really hard to burn a plant that cant photosynthesize, Keep the feeding levels low for now let in some fresh air with an oscillating fan on medium speed across plants this will show results within 5 to 7 days (3 days if hydro) when transpiration resumes to normal levels you will need to start feeding regularly again.Very very important to bring in fresh air some how! Keep fan running 24/7
max316420
Well-Known Member
even if I have a co2 burner, ac, dehumidifier, humidifier?? my space is just about seeled air tight, well i would say air tight but much doesnt get in or out
oreganics
Active Member
If you have a proper environmental exchange; Hot stale humid air out, fresh air in, you can save on the appliances you use (e.g. dehumidifier, humidifier) and the life of the a/c. Try to vent hot humid air from the upper section of the grow space and draw fresh air from bottom area. If you only have a window to get air in and out get a dual window kit for a portable A/C they work great, 1 hole for fresh air in, 2nd for venting hot humid air out. I guarantee it will improve your issues and your plants will love the needed air exchange and reward you appropriately!
Pre-screen any in coming air from pests with nylons or get the pest screens you can buy to fit over fan intakes they are cheap and will save tons of headaches later I promise.
oreganics
Active Member
A totally sealed environment is really a misleading statement of a controlled environmental grow. There are a few leading scientific research labs and of course NASA who, can and do, experiment with a vacuum environment which by definition is a totally sealed environment (we need to know how to grow in space.). Other than these folks, we at best can only achieve a controlled environment. The sealed grows you hear about are done with minimal air exchange, only when the monitored O2 and CO2 are at set levels for exchange, but there is an exchange of new air to vented stale air eventually.
oreganics
Active Member
The issue with intake of fresh air is it a light leak issue? You can get flex duct and just bend it a few bends this will stop most light leaks in or out the duct is obviously in the grow room with a nylon or 1 of those pest filters I like the pest filters because they come with a carbon filter I know not very effective but they are black in color so it helps hide light. No need to attach fan to intake just let output of vented air draw air in this will create a complete o2 exchange at least every hour.
max316420
Well-Known Member
but that's not always gonna cool my room down, If I didn't have an ac they it would be like 110 degrees in there and thats with a fan bringing fresh air in. I failed to mention that I do have one but I don't find it that effective, maybe I'll try it just when the lights are off. I have a total environmental controller so I get to see exact levels of temp, rh and co2 ppm. when having the fan on bringing fresh air in from outside the levels of co2 only get to around 180 ppm and my temps aren't affected at all so I just stuck to ac with supplemental co2 but am gonna leave my oreck air purifier on full blast 24\7
oreganics
Active Member
I understand, What I would do with the total controller is set it up so that when the temps inside the room get to around 90 degrees it will activate a fan to vent out, as this is taking place, have the co2 emitter shut off during the venting process, if you have an inlet even a small 1/4 to 1/2 inch gap under doors can allow enough air in,keep oscillating fan going 24/7 on low across plants. This is all you really need to let the plants transpiration take place, and it will save appliances,electricity and the lifespan of a/c.
Why set temp to 90 degrees because plants will use the co2 more efficiently at higher temperatures.
If you cant shut co2 emitter off during exchange cycle leave it on, co2 is heavier than o2 and will sink to bottom of room so you wont lose too much.
my 2 cents here! If you live in or around any American city the average ppm for co2 are well above 300ppm and if you are only tending 2 to 6 plants co2 is a waste of energy and resources it can help in high temperature situations and in large controlled commercial grows, e.g. go to a hot house tomatoes operation see all principles stated here in practice!
Good luck I hope this helps.
streetlegal
Well-Known Member
i didnt really read through this BUT i am growing LUI and on advice of her being a nute hog i burnt her good,.. i then fixed her by flushing good, bringing her back to square 1 and starting her nute schedule again,..this was after about a week of banging my head against the wall and i think it only took 3 days and she was flying again..
oh and i mean i burnt her good, burnt to he point of lock-out, i had droopy flourescing yellow leaves.. shes a tough cookie (look at her breeding man c'mon SOL).. gl homie
and how weird is it that i use 2000w and co2??..
oh and i mean i burnt her good, burnt to he point of lock-out, i had droopy flourescing yellow leaves.. shes a tough cookie (look at her breeding man c'mon SOL).. gl homie
and how weird is it that i use 2000w and co2??..
