is it nessary to mix anything in pro mix befor you use it.

Growingforpeace

Well-Known Member
The General Organics complete line was disappointing. You are missing the Black Forest (humic supplement). I hate the fact that they portray it is an organic product when in reality it is simply the same as all the other chemical products. If you like the chemicals go with Dyna Grow and Bloom lineup way cheaper and better results. If it were me I favor the true living organic (TLO) approach. here is a great recipe.

1 3.8 cf bag of Pro Mix BX or HP
1 cf of compost (earth worm castings, thermo compost)
.5 cf of perlite, coco shells, pumice or rice hulls
6 cups of Espoma brand bio tone starter plus
3 cups alfalfa meal
3 cups kelp meal
3 cups crab meal (Neptune harvest)
2 cups of a 50/50 mix of Neem cake and Karanja cake (neemsource.com) This stuff is amazing but expensive.
Minerals as follows 1 cups of soft rock phosphate (or brown rock), 1 cup of crushed oyster shells, 1 cup gypsum 3/4 cup of sul po mag, 1 cup of azomite
Mix it thoroughly on a large tarp or cement mixer.

Let it "cook" or rest for 1 month before using. This is a water only True living organic soil. It will still need the occasional AACT tea and a dose of humic and fulvic acid to feed the microbial life but other than that it's a no brainer medium. No more worries and it will most likely be the best grow you have ever produced. It is a little more work/labor to do organics but nothing great ever comes easy.
Is the one month cooking time required or could I go 2-3 weeks?
 

Dg416

New Member
I believe pro mix is the equivalent of happy frog? I mix mine 50% with perlite and I also add 1tbsp of bone and blood meal for every 1 gal of pot size. I too don't fert in veg at all and usually not till a few weeks in flower.
What kind of nutreints do you use during flowering for this mix, and how often/long do you feed into the cycle. I'm thinking of useing this recipe and would like to know before I start vegging.
 

Lordhooha

Well-Known Member
What kind of nutreints do you use during flowering for this mix, and how often/long do you feed into the cycle. I'm thinking of useing this recipe and would like to know before I start vegging.
Holy thread revival batman!what I do is get promix bx, roots organic greenfields, and roots organic original take a big ass tarp dump all three in the middle and use the tarp to mix it up. This will last you thur veg depending on how long you veg and how big of pots your using. After that every three weeks I sprinkle roots nitro bat guano on top if in veg still or right before I flip to flower. After that use whatever grow nutrients your gonna use.
 

Dg416

New Member
Holy thread revival batman!what I do is get promix bx, roots organic greenfields, and roots organic original take a big ass tarp dump all three in the middle and use the tarp to mix it up. This will last you thur veg depending on how long you veg and how big of pots your using. After that every three weeks I sprinkle roots nitro bat guano on top if in veg still or right before I flip to flower. After that use whatever grow nutrients your gonna use.
Lol thanks for the quick reply, do you add any perlite or vermiculite to this blend.
 

chronicals77

Well-Known Member
The General Organics complete line was disappointing. You are missing the Black Forest (humic supplement). I hate the fact that they portray it is an organic product when in reality it is simply the same as all the other chemical products. If you like the chemicals go with Dyna Grow and Bloom lineup way cheaper and better results. If it were me I favor the true living organic (TLO) approach. here is a great recipe.

1 3.8 cf bag of Pro Mix BX or HP
1 cf of compost (earth worm castings, thermo compost)
.5 cf of perlite, coco shells, pumice or rice hulls
6 cups of Espoma brand bio tone starter plus
3 cups alfalfa meal
3 cups kelp meal
3 cups crab meal (Neptune harvest)
2 cups of a 50/50 mix of Neem cake and Karanja cake (neemsource.com) This stuff is amazing but expensive.
Minerals as follows 1 cups of soft rock phosphate (or brown rock), 1 cup of crushed oyster shells, 1 cup gypsum 3/4 cup of sul po mag, 1 cup of azomite
Mix it thoroughly on a large tarp or cement mixer.

Let it "cook" or rest for 1 month before using. This is a water only True living organic soil. It will still need the occasional AACT tea and a dose of humic and fulvic acid to feed the microbial life but other than that it's a no brainer medium. No more worries and it will most likely be the best grow you have ever produced. It is a little more work/labor to do organics but nothing great ever comes easy.
I know this is old but something caught my attention. This cannot be a true organic mix because all pro mix has antifungals and chemical watering agents. Pro mix be, ect are not organic mixes. Also all general hydro products are organic derived from natural minerals. It cannot be classified as organic because of the cleaning/purifying and processing often minerals into a ph stable liquid form. It is not chemical in the sense that miracle gro is chemical. I got nothing but hydro and use nothing but GH products. They are fantastic products but have to be used as stated by the manufacturer and yes if a company says to flush there is good reason for it. Flushing removes salt build up with hardened on roots and reduces the rate at which the plants absorb nutrients. "Organic" growing is actually worse because there are a lot and I mean a lot of contaminates in organic ferts such as tons of mold spores. Also if your going to add all those amendment to your soul you may as well start with raw ingredients and make your own mix because professional mixes such as promix bx is scientifically structured for specific results. It is meant to perform in a certain way and by adding all that stuff to the soil you are completely restructuring the performance. Water absorption rates, moisture and drying rates, ect....You are destroying the intended performance of the soil mix. Get peat, get perlite, vermiculite, ect and establish your own mix. If you buy organic components and do that then you can call it natural organic live soil mix. Also once broken down to a usable state minerals are minerals to plants. Don't believe me? I've studied the past 7 years with some of the world's most famous horticulturalist. They would not appreciate me posting their names here as they are not affiliated with cannabis on a public level and some not at all. I don't doubt you are getting some decent results but I veg 5 weeks and pull 2lbs per plant indoors.
 

chemphlegm

Well-Known Member
I use pro mix for seedlings and clones and feed when they ask.
time to flower..I up pot to a larger container of promix and add a shot of fish powder and
a few cups of Organicare a couple times during flower, water only and its the best.
 

Tangerine_

Well-Known Member
I know this is old but something caught my attention. This cannot be a true organic mix because all pro mix has antifungals and chemical watering agents. Pro mix be, ect are not organic mixes. Also all general hydro products are organic derived from natural minerals. It cannot be classified as organic because of the cleaning/purifying and processing often minerals into a ph stable liquid form. It is not chemical in the sense that miracle gro is chemical. I got nothing but hydro and use nothing but GH products. They are fantastic products but have to be used as stated by the manufacturer and yes if a company says to flush there is good reason for it. Flushing removes salt build up with hardened on roots and reduces the rate at which the plants absorb nutrients. "Organic" growing is actually worse because there are a lot and I mean a lot of contaminates in organic ferts such as tons of mold spores. Also if your going to add all those amendment to your soul you may as well start with raw ingredients and make your own mix because professional mixes such as promix bx is scientifically structured for specific results. It is meant to perform in a certain way and by adding all that stuff to the soil you are completely restructuring the performance. Water absorption rates, moisture and drying rates, ect....You are destroying the intended performance of the soil mix. Get peat, get perlite, vermiculite, ect and establish your own mix. If you buy organic components and do that then you can call it natural organic live soil mix. Also once broken down to a usable state minerals are minerals to plants. Don't believe me? I've studied the past 7 years with some of the world's most famous horticulturalist. They would not appreciate me posting their names here as they are not affiliated with cannabis on a public level and some not at all. I don't doubt you are getting some decent results but I veg 5 weeks and pull 2lbs per plant indoors.
The Pro-Mix versions of HP and CC do NOT have fungicides.


Many
growers use Pro-Mix/Sunshine as a base for organics or for dry nutes. AFAIK, it is completely inert.
Its not organic because it isn't "soil"
Its simply Canadian sphagnum peat, perlite and some lime. Sure, you could just use peat, perlite and EWC but whats the difference? The wetting agents?

I the combo of Pro-Mix HP/CC (the CC because I believe the coco to be a bit more pH stable)

Can you link or cite a source that shows its not a viable option for organics?
 
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barry smith

Well-Known Member
Beth, When you use straight Pro Mix BX by its self and add the fertilizer or "nutrients" to the water this is essentially "soil-less" growing or hydroponics so to speak. This is because the Promix is essentially an inert (no nutrient value) medium similar to straight perlite. When you add amendments to the Promix like compost (worm castings, cow manure, mushroom, lobster, chicken, yard), meals (bone, blood, feather, kelp, alfalfa, crab etc.) gaunos (bat, sea bird), minerals (azomite, soft rock phosphates, sul po mag, oyster shells, lime greensand) you are now growing in a soil mix. If all the amendments are properly adjusted you can water with plain old tap water and not add anything to the H2O as far as macro nutrients (NPK) go. So to recap straight Promix Bx is soil-less and Promix Bx with all the proper amendments is soil growing (examples: Roots Organic, Fox Farm OF, Coast of Main, Vital Earth etc). This is a broad definition of both types of growing media and each has many different approaches and nutrient recipes. I would also not recommend adding lime to the BX, it is already in there. I will offer one more piece of advice and with it I will be opening up a huge debate but here we go. If you plan on using bottled nutrients don't be fooled by these product lines that offer 4-10 different bottles of crap for your grow cycle. There are many great economically superior products that are over looked because they aren't flashy and over marketed. But as everyone will agree (LOL) organic TLO soil growing is superior in every aspect of fruit production. My $.02 worth.
yup you are correct on all points especially the point about use of expensive additives and nuts . seriously i ve been growing for 50 yrears believe me make it simple you get just as good results, i ve tried a lot of combinations in all those years and now i use PRO mix bx and TPS 1 eazy and pretty cheap.and excellent results .
 

DarkWeb

Well-Known Member
yup you are correct on all points especially the point about use of expensive additives and nuts . seriously i ve been growing for 50 yrears believe me make it simple you get just as good results, i ve tried a lot of combinations in all those years and now i use PRO mix bx and TPS 1 eazy and pretty cheap.and excellent results .
Just think of how young you where when this thread started ;)
 

Canadian87

New Member
The General Organics complete line was disappointing. You are missing the Black Forest (humic supplement). I hate the fact that they portray it is an organic product when in reality it is simply the same as all the other chemical products. If you like the chemicals go with Dyna Grow and Bloom lineup way cheaper and better results. If it were me I favor the true living organic (TLO) approach. here is a great recipe.

1 3.8 cf bag of Pro Mix BX or HP
1 cf of compost (earth worm castings, thermo compost)
.5 cf of perlite, coco shells, pumice or rice hulls
6 cups of Espoma brand bio tone starter plus
3 cups alfalfa meal
3 cups kelp meal
3 cups crab meal (Neptune harvest)
2 cups of a 50/50 mix of Neem cake and Karanja cake (neemsource.com) This stuff is amazing but expensive.
Minerals as follows 1 cups of soft rock phosphate (or brown rock), 1 cup of crushed oyster shells, 1 cup gypsum 3/4 cup of sul po mag, 1 cup of azomite
Mix it thoroughly on a large tarp or cement mixer.

Let it "cook" or rest for 1 month before using. This is a water only True living organic soil. It will still need the occasional AACT tea and a dose of humic and fulvic acid to feed the microbial life but other than that it's a no brainer medium. No more worries and it will most likely be the best grow you have ever produced. It is a little more work/labor to do organics but nothing great ever comes easy.
Hi there, I realize this thread is ancient. But I decided to make up a double batch of your recommended TLO mix. I was under the impression it’s a super soil to be placed at the bottom 1/3 to 1/2 of the container. Is that the case or is this mix for planting directly in? Thanks in advance!
 

Canadian87

New Member
Bump
Hi there, I realize this thread is ancient. But I decided to make up a double batch of your recommended TLO mix. I was under the impression it’s a super soil to be placed at the bottom 1/3 to 1/2 of the container. Is that the case or is this mix for planting directly in? Thanks in advance!
 

volcanoOFhistory

Well-Known Member
Usually you'll mix some of your hot super soil with regular promox for the top 2/3 of the containers soil and put down the bottom 1/3 full strength. Make sure you don't transplant anything too young into a supersoil pot. They need a developed root system In a smaller pot first.
 

Canadian87

New Member
Just to confirm though - this recipe originally posted by CleverPiggy:

1 3.8 cf bag of Pro Mix BX or HP
1 cf of compost (earth worm castings, thermo compost)
.5 cf of perlite, coco shells, pumice or rice hulls
6 cups of Espoma brand bio tone starter plus
3 cups alfalfa meal
3 cups kelp meal
3 cups crab meal (Neptune harvest)
2 cups of a 50/50 mix of Neem cake and Karanja cake (neemsource.com) This stuff is amazing but expensive.
Minerals as follows 1 cups of soft rock phosphate (or brown rock), 1 cup of crushed oyster shells, 1 cup gypsum 3/4 cup of sul po mag, 1 cup of azomite
Mix it thoroughly on a large tarp or cement mixer.”

Is this a super soil?
 

StareCase

Well-Known Member
I have contacted them previously to find out the best source water pH for their Pro-Mix HP stuff. In their response, Sue recommended not mixing other stuff with their stuff. To be safe, you might wanna run this one by PT Horticulture and get the correct answer from the source.

https://www.pthorticulture.com/en.


Hope that helps.
 

myke

Well-Known Member
I mix 1 cup gaia 444 to 5 gallons PM Hp, let cook,my clones run in this.Trans plant i mix 50/50 with my super soil.Much faster growth compared to straight super soil.
 

m99smith

Well-Known Member
I used to use Pro-Mix then I switched to SunGros SunShine Mix #4. Its a soil-less mix that had perlite sphagnum peat moss and dolomite lime. For nutes I use Gaia Greens 100% Organic slow release nutes, Pro-Mix is shit compared to SunShine Mix#4 and with the slow release nutes you only add 1 tbsp per gallon of medium for top dressing and 3 tbsp per gallon if pre-mixing then it just water and the slow release lasts 3 weeks then add more. Since using this stuff I've never touched Pro-Mix again. But the Pro-Mix that doesn't have anything added is decent just add your own stuff but SunShine Mix is still better imo. I also use EWC, This stuff called fish shit which is 99.99% compost fish manure, then I make compost tea With EWC, Kelp Meal, and Molasses. I also water with molasses every week or two.
 
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