Is this Nutrient Burn or Light Burn?

Cigarz

Cigarz

Active Member
Bukvičák said:

CannaStats - Nutrient Profiles for Cannabis

This page provides a common language spoken by all fertilizer solutions and a way to mix them for growing cannabis hydroponically. Sometimes referred to as the Lucas formula, this page explains the true origin of this well known proven formula and the project that led to its discovery. Emphasis...
www.angelfire.com

Calculator is down the page
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Not sure if I did this right.... let me know did part a and part b seperate. I'm not sure what I'm adding together? this is confusing heh
 

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Cigarz

Cigarz

Active Member
Or do you mean like this and combine both? If so I came up with 787PPM. I'm not sure if I combine part and b on the chart, then do i add up all the numbers in each section? also my nutrients are dry then added to water... not sure how to fill first 2 boxes so left them @ 1
 

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Bukvičák

Bukvičák

Well-Known Member
Cigarz said:
Or do you mean like this and combine both? If so I came up with 787PPM. I'm not sure if I combine part and b on the chart, then do i add up all the numbers in each section? also my nutrients are dry then added to water... not sure how to fill first 2 boxes so left them @ 1
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I think first one is correct. Let say in simple way.. It gives you 90N-30P-110K. Adding shitload of pH up gives you 178ppm of potassium (assuming your pH up is KOH). It can easily lead to all kind of problems. Have you noticed pouring pH up into your nutrient solution some “cloudyness”? I am not sure but think its called precipation or something like that. Thats also bad thing... there is huge difference between pHing RO or distiled water and tap in sense of amount needed to be added to reach desirable value. I would suggest to measure pH of your solution day after mixing to see if it buffers something back. Thats strange being pH so low from quite weak EC given from fertilizer. You are veg so not such a big deal, unless you run autos... also I would try different plant - different treatment, if they are all still suffer the same, than you know its environmental. good luck!
 
T

The Real Medicine Man

Active Member
Bukvičák said:
I got lost, are you in coco or in mix? Part A and part B isnt already one of them just calmag? How much is the cap 10ml? Why you adding calmag as last when it should goes in first? You are adding like 1,5-2,0ml/L of calmag, can you be specific which one? You measure pH after adding nutes, did you leave your nutrient solution to sit for one day just to see how “strong” is your tap buffer? Is your meter calibrated?
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His mix is coir based. Promix is coir & peat based w perlite. Waterless dro .
 
T

The Real Medicine Man

Active Member
Cigarz said:
No I'm trying to raise the PPM... it's only like 650 in the runoff, isn't 800 the goal for veg? My base is 180-200PPM.
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Lol ik I mean your tap water so it's not hard. Leaving a bucket out w a air bubbler pummp.
The Real Medicine Man said:
If you want to try and lower ppm of tap let a bucket of h20 sit out for a couple days and if you happen to have a air bubbler on hand to put in the bucket that's even better..
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How long u been smoking n growing spud
 
T

The Real Medicine Man

Active Member
The Real Medicine Man said:
If you want to try and lower ppm of tap let a bucket of h20 sit out for a couple days and if you happen to have a air bubbler on hand to put in the bucket that's even better..
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To reduce the risk of harmful chemicals in your water, allow your tap water to sit out for at least 24 hours before using it to water your plants. This allows the chlorine to dissipate.
 
Cigarz

Cigarz

Active Member
The Real Medicine Man said:
To reduce the risk of harmful chemicals in your water, allow your tap water to sit out for at least 24 hours before using it to water your plants. This allows the chlorine to dissipate.
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So what mix my nutrients in 5 gallon etc and leave it for 24 hours and check it the next day? Then what?
 
Cigarz

Cigarz

Active Member
Bukvičák said:
I think first one is correct. Let say in simple way.. It gives you 90N-30P-110K. Adding shitload of pH up gives you 178ppm of potassium (assuming your pH up is KOH). It can easily lead to all kind of problems. Have you noticed pouring pH up into your nutrient solution some “cloudyness”? I am not sure but think its called precipation or something like that. Thats also bad thing... there is huge difference between pHing RO or distiled water and tap in sense of amount needed to be added to reach desirable value. I would suggest to measure pH of your solution day after mixing to see if it buffers something back. Thats strange being pH so low from quite weak EC given from fertilizer. You are veg so not such a big deal, unless you run autos... also I would try different plant - different treatment, if they are all still suffer the same, than you know its environmental. good luck!
Click to expand...
So how do you suggest I balance my PH without PH UP and DOWN? I'm using GH. Soil calls for 6.3PH and so does calcium intake, so thats where I need to keep it. Do I just add more nutrients to counteract the potassium?
 
Cigarz

Cigarz

Active Member
So I inspected my plants today, they look about the same, still some rust looking spots on a few leaves. The edges of the leaves are curling upwards on some and theres a slight discoloration.
 
Lordhooha

Lordhooha

Well-Known Member
lusidghost said:
I recently bought a Blue Lab truncheon, and while it's cool looking and waterproof, I like my generic PPM meter better. Even if it's off by a few points, the truncheon is scaled to the 100th. So it's still giving me a less accurate reading than a PPM meter that's off by 15 or whatever.
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I love my truncheon my one tried and true pieces of gear.
 
lusidghost

lusidghost

Well-Known Member
Lordhooha said:
I love my truncheon my one tried and true pieces of gear.
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Like I said, I think they are cool and are for sure a quality product, but they don't give up much info. I've been using mine for mixing nutrients, but I want a more precise reading for runoff. Especially if the plants are still small.
 
Lordhooha

Lordhooha

Well-Known Member
lusidghost said:
Like I said, I think they are cool and are for sure a quality product, but they don't give up much info. I've been using mine for mixing nutrients, but I want a more precise reading for runoff. Especially if the plants are still small.
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That part is easy honestly don't check run off. Don't need too honestly. Plus it's only 50 difference. I prefer it over my 500 dollar Hanna honestly.
 
lusidghost

lusidghost

Well-Known Member
Lordhooha said:
That part is easy honestly don't check run off. Don't need too honestly. Plus it's only 50 difference. I prefer it over my 500 dollar Hanna honestly.
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The halfway indication is pretty generic. I'm not sure where the ranges start and stop. Thirds maybe? I don't know. I could probably find out, but I like seeing the exact number. Even if it's a little off. I never measured runoff until recently, but I'm using new nutrients and trying to feed them as lightly as possible. It's nice to be able to tell if I need to up the dose or not without waiting for the plant to show signs.

All of that said, do what you want. I'm not knocking it or you, and use mine daily. My post is a week old and only had the truncheon for a few days at the point. It's grown on me a bit since then. I just also like to use my inexpensive PPM meter.
 
Bukvičák

Bukvičák

Well-Known Member
Cigarz said:
So how do you suggest I balance my PH without PH UP and DOWN? I'm using GH. Soil calls for 6.3PH and so does calcium intake, so thats where I need to keep it. Do I just add more nutrients to counteract the potassium?
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You are probably confusing agriculture with horticulture. You are not in soil, you are in soilless. You are chasing wrong numbers. Also you have obvious temp issues...
 
Cigarz

Cigarz

Active Member
Bukvičák said:
You are probably confusing agriculture with horticulture. You are not in soil, you are in soilless. You are chasing wrong numbers. Also you have obvious temp issues...
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Temps don't go above 80 degrees, humidity is around 50-60. What temperature should I be then? I'm in soiless? So what numbers should I be chasing? Promix states 6.2-6.3 PH and I've heard PPM should be 800-900 soil or soiless, what am I missing then? I highly doubt it's heat related @ 80f and 60 humidity... Could be nutrient burn? or maybe from fans blowing on them?
 
Bukvičák

Bukvičák

Well-Known Member
Cigarz said:
Temps don't go above 80 degrees, humidity is around 50-60. What temperature should I be then? I'm in soiless? So what numbers should I be chasing? Promix states 6.2-6.3 PH and I've heard PPM should be 800-900 soil or soiless, what am I missing then? I highly doubt it's heat related @ 80f and 60 humidity... Could be nutrient burn? or maybe from fans blowing on them?
Click to expand...
How far is your light?
 
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