Southtexasman87
Active Member
I left some clones I took this morning out on the patio and the hot late afternoon sun was beating down on them I hope tiger ok to!! And I hopeople the rest of your plants are ok good luck on that!!
It's A Fuct World
- Thread starter Al B. Fuct
- Start date
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Ah, OK.
Here's a table from Cannaversity that may be of help.
As long as Flora Nova not organic, give it a try.
You can let it wander upward 0.2, but that's the high & outside.
If you have at least 5L of tank volume, the pH & TDS should remain steady as the res level drops over the 2-week lifetime of a tank of nutes.
Please make friends with the metric system. 1 gallon is 3.8L. You do have your ratio right for 29%, which should be about 1.8ml/L.
3 cotyledons? A cotyledon is a part of a seed.
The rosetting in my plants was being caused by fungus gnat larvae damaging my roots. I'm taking measures to sort that out; yellow sticky fly trams & application of Scarid 10, a cat 3a insecticide containing Deltamethrin (30ml/L with a few drops of liquid dish soap as a wetting agent, applied as a spray). Rosetting indicates root system damage and will definitely reduce yield due to poor overall plant development.
If this is GH's mixing recommendation, fine... but it sounds immensely complex. I strongly prefer a 2-part nutrient, where, as with Canna (Aqua) it's as simple as 3ml/L each of A&B.
If the flood level is high enough to wet the rockwool cube, you're going to have problems.
Yes, topping up with plain tap water will cause the pH to rise. If your res has at least 5L/plant capacity, you should not really have to top up the tanks nor adjust pH during the 2 week life of a tank of nutes.
And you should definitely leave out the part about mole-asses.
95F is waaaay too hot. 30C max. I don't use humidomes. The point of them is to prevent wilt by limiting transpiration through the leaves. However, the cutting should be able to get enough water through the stem cut to prevent wilt, even with very low humidity. Also, I've never misted a clone, ever- and I don't control humidity in my clone box either; in fact, the clone box has a thermostatically controlled exhaust fan- the tstat is set to 28C. If a clone is wilting, there's a good chance the RW cube has been overwatered and the stem tip has begun to rot. In this instance, I'll recut the stem, removing any rot, and poke it in a new RW cube.
Don't add nutes to clone watering solutions. Nitrogen in the solution will slow rooting. Are you using a heat mat? A good horticultural heat mat, set to 30C (or fixed temp at 30C), will speed things along. You should have roots out of the bottom of the cubes in no more than 10 days. If it's taking longer, soemthing else is wrong, most likely overwatering. Remember, cubes should be damp, never wet or saturated. If you're not using them, use 40mm plastic wrapped cubes. The bigger ones stay wet too long.
And how. Mole-asses may have some purpose in organic soil-based cultivation (feeds microbes which break down manures and compost into N, P & K) but should never be used in inorganic hydroponic culture. In hydroponics, mole-asses only feed pathogens which generally cause root rot. Also can attract insects. Avoid at all costs.
Use 29% at 1.8ml/L.
You can start at 1000ppm (Truncheon) or 1.4-1.5 EC and maintain that through the flowering period.
The rate for 50% H2O2 is 1ml/L.
I've persuaded my local hydro shop to stock 25kg jugs of 50% H2O2- about $100. Lasts months.
Scarid 10.
Noice.....sup Al! ...thought I'd share some of my funk
You can eliminate the veg period and get more compact plants. Vegging makes your plants taller than they need to be, which will reduce the density of the buds down low on the plants due to the limitations of light penetration.
Wilting immediately after putting the clones in the flowering area may indicate that the roots are not as developed as they could be. You might leave them in the clone box for a couple more days until you see a nice spray of roots (10+ roots out of the cube bottoms)- a single taproot isn't enough for supply the plant's transpiration demands when it's photosynthesising enthusiastically. 600mm clearance is a bit close for a brand new clone, but if there's enough rootmass, they should cope OK & come good after about 48 hrs.Hey, Al! I hope all is well these days. I run a sog set up patterned after yours (I've read all your threads, thanks for all the great info!), but mine is scaled down; 4 - 3x2 trays holding 22 plants each under a pair of Sun Systems Magnum XXXLs air-cooled hoods using Digilux 600w HPS bulbs. Got a hanging panda mom tent in the corner with 12 moms of 4 different strains. I use a 36 site aero-cloner, and take the best 22 every to weeks. I use perlite with mini-rockwool cubes packed at the bottom in my 5.5 inch square pots. After I pot my newly rooted clones, I leave them in the bedroom to make sure they get over the transplant shock and make sure they're standing tall and taking up the nute solution before I put them under the HPS in the flowering room. The problem is that most of them wilt under the HPS for the first few days before they get used to the environment. The HPS is about 2 feet away, but the wilting issue persists. The room temp is between 72 to 78 max (air-conditioned now, it's summer in the States
You're shooting yourself in the foot by vegging before flowering. This is the cause of your tall plants. It's also adding time to your harvest interval. Eliminate the veg step.Hey Al
I'm using an adaptation of your SoG method
I've only got two flower tents (1.25m x 1.25m, 1000w HPS each), a separate box with a 400w MH, and a propagation box (some fluro's)
Currently I'm doing it like this
Prop Box (24/0):
Veg box (24/0):
- 3 weeks -> Move to veg box
Tents (12/12):
- 2 weeks -> Move to empty tent
- Clones taken on day of move -> prop box
- Bottom 1/3-1/2 of plant trimmed
- 10 weeks - alternating with other tent to be 5 weeks apart.
This allows me to harvest every 5 weeks. At time of harvest I have a fresh batch of healthy, robust plants about 16-20 inches high ready to go in the now empty tent. The harvested bud is manicured and dries in darkness in the veg box, ventilated with a few computer fans. The veg box is turned off for up to 3 weeks, allowing for ample time to dry the bud.
The plants get about 4-4.5ft high with a mild touch of PGR, but I would like to get rid of this additive if possible. Currently I am using 4 inch rockwool cubes in flood and drain. Running 20 in each tent but could fit more. Not sure of the output tbh because I've only just started doing it like this, the last grow was 6 plants that had been topped to 4-5 main heads each, made about 10-11oz. I was running canna nutes, a touch of calmag (I'm on tankwater), a little of the PGR, and this stuff a mate gave me called liquid lead (it's supposed to be some sort of yield enhancer. It was given to me so I figured might as well. I'll use it until it runs out and then see how the harvests turn out without it)
Now I'm looking to improve on yield any way I can, as well as decrease my harvest time to 4 weeks if possible. My strains are sour kush and ak48, and require a fairly long bloom time for the amber trichs to appear so I have to keep it to 10 weeks flowering.
This setup I have is a bit stretchy tbh, the plants get tall. I thought I could adjust the timer on my veg box to be 12/12 and become a preflower box, hopefully the blue spectrum from the MH should inhibit some stretch, and this would also cut the time in the flower tent to 8 weeks instead of 10 ie, 4 week harvest instead of 5. The downside of this is that to fit the new schedule I would have to reduce the prop box time to 2 weeks, and as the plants have 3 weeks less growth at cloning they might be too small to support the abuse. I'm trying to avoid flip-flipping the plants from veg to flower and back to veg here, but I don't really know anything about cloning so maybe I'm doing the wrong thing, is it better to wait a week into flowering before taking the clones? There's a lot of confusing information on the subject, I really don't know.
The main goal here is to eliminate PGR use altogether, as well as use the equipment I have in some useful fashion (MH lamp), also I don't like the idea of having to maintain a mother plant
I'd also like to ask you about CO2. Is it practical? I'm in Australia and have limited resources. I'd rather not be messing about with complex automated valve systems and expensive bulky cylinders. I'd also like something a bit more reliable than a bucket of yeast. I was thinking of dry ice, but I don't know where to source it, and I'm concerned about the cooling effect it will have on the air as I understand you want higher air temps with CO2. Also I'd like something that won't kill me or the dog if possible, any ideas?
Speaking of Australia, I would absolutely love to get my hands on some of that STG you've been using. How's that been working out by the way? Have you got any clue where I can source it over here? Neither google or their website were any help, and I'm sick and tired of this rockwool crap. Desperate for a quality medium like STG.
Now the obligatory voodoo question, I know that blue light inhibits stretch, and red light promotes flowering, is there any practical use to supplemental LED's? I'm talking like maybe 1-200w of LED in a strip (I could DIY that with chinese eBay LED's) somewhere in the tent, just for an added boost in an appropriate point in the spectrum. I mean I haven't done any costing or anything so it could be wildly impractical, but setting price aside would there be any use to doing something like this in conjunction with the lights I already have?
Oh and I have it on good authority that if I sacrifice a goat on winter solstice while dancing the macarana I can expect to double my yield, thought on the subject?
Thanks for all your help
CO2 is worth doing but only if done right- and by 'right,' I mean CO2 from tanks and metered with an automated application system which senses ambient air concentration of CO2, controls exhaust fans and doses the room with CO2. Also, the room has to be built to suit CO2 application- cooltubes, sealed room but for ventilation fans, aircon if necessary to control temps without blowing out your expensive CO2. It's very easy to get $2500-3000 (or more) wrapped up in a proper CO2 system. I get by fine without it.
Clones should be well rooted in 15 days (max). At that time, they are ready to go into the 12/12 flowering room with no further mucking about.
Don't bother with LED lighting of any kind for any purpose. Waste of money. The tall plants are being caused by doing a veg period. Stop doing that & you will get plants about 500-600mm tall at finishing.
I don't know what "PGR" is. 'Liquid Lead' is yet another mysterious 'magic sauce' and can be omitted.
You MUST maintain separate mother plants under a veg lighting cycle (18-24h on per day). Never take cuttings from a plant which is in flower. Such cuttings will be very slow to root.
STG cubes are available at most hydro shops. If your local doesn't have it, request that they stock it. I've just gotten a few plants though an 8 week flowering cycle in STG and find that the performance is similar to Fytocell. I did notice that the plants I recently ran in STG did perform better early on, but then some gnats got into the op & mucked things up a bit. STG cubes also have large air gaps between them, which makes it easier for fungus gnats to get into the rootmass. I'm going to get more STG cubes and try again when I have the gnats eliminated before I make any sort of final verdict on the stuff.
As you might have guessed, this plant is dead, as are any others that look like it. No amount of H2O2 will save a plant with this much root damage. You should have been using H2O2 50% grade at 1ml/L of tank volume every 3-4 days, and should have been doing so since day 1. If you can only get 29%, use it at 1.8ml/L every 3-4 days.so what if I only have hydrogen peroxide 3% should I dump the whole frickn 16oz bottle in my 30 gal rez??
I will try to go buy the 50% but what if I dont find it..
I need help and fast. I lost one plant already and I fear the rest are close behind..
Sorry, but you're going to have to start over. Do a thorough cleaning of your op before trying again. Clean all nutrient contact surfaces with a 10% laundry bleach in water solution with a few drops of liquid dish soap as a wetting agent. Make sure there's no entry points for fungus gnats. If you see a light leak, gnats will see it too. Make sure there's no wooden structural parts that can get wet- bugs just LOVE wet wood.
3% grade H2O2 should not be used in hydroponics. Low-strength H2O2 must contain stabiliser chemicals to keep the H2O2 from breaking down into H2O & O2 in storage. The stabiliser (usually sodium stannate) is toxic to plants.
I don't know enough about your op to pin down all the causes of this major root damage- you may have been overwatering, may have fungus gnats, etc.
Yep, that's one place to get moderately strong H2O2, but whatever you do, NEVER follow 'natural food stores'' instructions to drink the stuff, no matter what they say. There's a cult of 'body oxygenation' fraudsters out there who think drinking the stuff is a good idea, as though you have lungs in your gut. Never, never, never.
Putting plants outdoors that you will flower indoors is an EXCELLENT way to bring spider mites, fungus gnats or other pests into your op. Please don't do this.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
It took me about 90 minutes to compose that last post. When I tried to post, I got a 'restriction' screen that forced me to enter a Captcha code. In so doing, I LOST MY ENTIRE POST TEXT. If it had not been for a plugin I have installed on my browser ('Lazarus'), I would have had to have re-written the whole thing.
There's got to be a better way to keep spammers off the board.
If I ever lose an entire post, I will simply delete my RIU acct and never come back. I don't need the aggravation.
There's got to be a better way to keep spammers off the board.
If I ever lose an entire post, I will simply delete my RIU acct and never come back. I don't need the aggravation.
reggaerican
Well-Known Member
dammit man and I was hoping to just transplant that sick little girl and bring her back to life...
so do you really think I will loose the rest of them as well some roots were just as bad as that one and some not so bad...
and oops too late I already dumped that whole 16oz bottle of 3% into my rez cause I panic'd guess im doing a rez change tonight shit!! and I just checked my water temp right as it was going back to my rez and it was 72degrees this might be a bad thing cause the lights have only been on for 2 hrs...
Southtexasman87
Active Member
Thanks all I'll keep that in mind, this was more of a first attempt to c if I can do it right and already on a half way bad start hope the will pull thru
Hello Al, glad to see you back.
I am glad you had the Lazarus app. We would be losing a valuable resource if you left. The new firewall software is a pain in the ass and you never know when it will hit. It even does it sometimes when you PM somebody. Even with no curse words or spam...
I am glad you had the Lazarus app. We would be losing a valuable resource if you left. The new firewall software is a pain in the ass and you never know when it will hit. It even does it sometimes when you PM somebody. Even with no curse words or spam...
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Sorry. If they look like that, they're cooked.
You're on a hiding to nowhere trying to recover a plant that's in that bad of condition. Even if by some miracle you could get that stem to set new roots, you'd have to also cut it back severely, re-veg it under 18-24h light (min 8-10wks), get some new vegetative habit growth on it (4-6wks), then flower it (8-9 wks). Looks like about 20-27wks. Half a fucking year to recover the plant & get it to yield, which it almost certainly won't do very well. Time to bail, clean up & start over, even if you have to start from seeds.
I don't think it'll matter.
Before you bring that plant back indoors, treat it with Confidor insecticide (any hdwe or garden shop has it). If you've already brought it back in, treat all plants with Confidor, get some yellow sticky card fly traps (garden shops) and watch for signs of fungus gnat, whitefly or spider mites.
Beyond hiding your grow from ppl who should not see it, the biggest advantage to indoor growing is being able to control pests' physical access to your plants. They do not need you to help them get in- you will always have some bug sneak into your op. Don't make it easy for them.
Thanks. Been busy & a bit unwell. I'll live.
Thanks for the compliment.
I'm glad I had it, too. Got enough on at the moment, would not have coped well if I'd had to write that twice. In fact, I almost certainly wouldn't have.
reggaerican
Well-Known Member
thanks man, and you gotta know I was joking about that one plant right? she has been in the compost pile since befor I posted to ya.... however here is a pic of one of the other plants roots that is on my table... this plant was right next to that one that died and her roots looked just as bad right befor my flush.. im still a rookie but im not so sure they are lost anymore..?
and a pic of the full table and why I dont wanna write them off so easily...
and a pic of the full table and why I dont wanna write them off so easily...
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
No, I didn't know nor think you were joking. Please don't waste my time with stuff like that. I have only a limited amount of time to reply to posts & I don't need to be punked.
reggaerican
Well-Known Member
wow really you make a thread to put out info to try and help and then you say shit like that.. whatever im not trying to punk you just looking for advise clearly your not the one to give it..
evjoy your miserable life
evjoy your miserable life
Bigz2277
Well-Known Member
Have some respect. He gets so many damn questions this is basically a second job he does for free, and to waist his time like that ( posting a problem for him to answer, then once he does, you say " oh i dont give a shit you spent your time on what i said, i was joking"
Been on RUI over 3 years and your killing plants. Something needs to change.
Been on RUI over 3 years and your killing plants. Something needs to change.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
You put up a pic of a sick plant & ask for help, I answer in good faith, then you say, 'haha, I was just joking.'
Again: don't waste my time.
mountainboy
Well-Known Member
Wow! that guy said enjoy your miserable life. I'll tell you what. I would take Al's Awesome life over those miserable plants you got any day, I bet he used mole asses on those things...lol. Keep up the great work AL. ,and please dont leave us.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Thanks.
I really REALLY don't have much time to put into responding to queries on cannabis boards. I used to post on multiple threads on several boards; now I post in one thread on one board- and you're looking at it. I try not to allow more than a week between visits, but sometimes there's simply no way around it.
I don't think I'll ever entirely stop posting, but if it's not fun & interesting for me and the ppl I'm talking to, believe me, there's other things I can be doing. And as a matter of fact, I think I'll go roll a fatty & watch the sunset.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
You certainly could graft cannabis, though I've not. I've done hardwood grafting on fruit trees (there's pears growing on my apple tree)- and I can't imagine the process would be much different. Look up grafting on the better gardening websites.
I could see a single mum plant hosting a number of different strains to keep plant count down. Bit risky tho- root disease in the mum plant & suddenly you lose a lot of work. It'll be fiddly, expert stuff. Congrats if you pull it off & manage to keep it going for a year or so.
Bigz2277
Well-Known Member
One thing i have been wanting to try is to graft a developing male flower onto a flowering female and see if it will breed.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
You probably won't be successful grafting flowers. Usually only works grafting stems to stems. If you want to crossbreed, wait until the male flowers have some pollen showing & manually pollinate the female flowers with a small artist's paintbrush. Bear in mind that by the time you see pollen on male flowers, they've already pollinated the females in your room... they're sneaky like that.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
You can, but there's no point in doing so. There's a myth that hops grafted to cannabis will cause the hop leaves to produce THC. Doesn't work like that.