LED Build 3x3

Chip Green said:
I'm running over 2000w of Gen1 EBs built in 2017..
Im going with: nay chance you'll regret this.
Nay.
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I’ll take your word on it haha. Next build will be a lot simpler haha. This time I had to find the aluminum sheet which took 2 days. Broke a wire in the connector which took a day to remove haha. And now trying to fit my board back on lol. But at the end of the day I know I’m going to have a kick ass light that’s safe. That’s my main concern. Teaching my daughter young on the art of growing. Did examine the back of the boards and even if they were nicked there is a nice buffer zone around the holes, gotta really put a screw on a huge angle to fuck the strip.
 
Lotsa DIY builders get caught up in the "max efficiency" of the whole realm. I don't disagree that it has purpose, but when we're talkin' about 3x3, 4x4 areas, who FN cares if I coulda had an extra 4000 lumens??? The BXEB is a workhorse emitter, for bargain basement pricing. Although, my biggest VEG "lamp" is comprised of Samsung F-series, but those klick ass too....
I've said this before, so I'll say it again, with pride.
I am, THE, consummate Bridgelux EB series fanboy knobjockey.:bigjoint:
Most of my EBs have likely been attached to 3-5 different frames during their service in my operations.
 
Oh I’ll probably build again with these if they pack a nice punch. Just learning everything was a pain. Next time I’ll know where to buy everything all at once and not have to disassemble a strip or two to make sure it’s safe. I’ll know to check that before if I use different strips. May build a very small one of a couple of strips for cloning
 
Skoal said:
I’ll take your word on it haha. Next build will be a lot simpler haha. This time I had to find the aluminum sheet which took 2 days. Broke a wire in the connector which took a day to remove haha. And now trying to fit my board back on lol. But at the end of the day I know I’m going to have a kick ass light that’s safe. That’s my main concern. Teaching my daughter young on the art of growing. Did examine the back of the boards and even if they were nicked there is a nice buffer zone around the holes, gotta really put a screw on a huge angle to fuck the strip.
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The nice thing about going the diy route is that you can easily replace parts in the unlikely case something messes up. Those drivers are versatile too so you'll probably find another use for them whether you are upgrading or stop growing indoors.

You also learned something and have a better understanding on how these things work.

Wiring in series is safer too so I'm glad you went that route. Thermal runaway can be dangerous. Parallel is awkward with EB2 as well.
 
DangerDavez said:
The nice thing about going the diy route is that you can easily replace parts in the unlikely case something messes up. Those drivers are versatile too so you'll probably find another use for them whether you are upgrading or stop growing indoors.

You also learned something and have a better understanding on how these things work.

Wiring in series is safer too so I'm glad you went that route. Thermal runaway can be dangerous. Parallel is awkward with EB2 as well.
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Yeah I looked at all the different types of wiring and then found that nice wiring diagram in a series and was like boom, that looks identical to who my strips are gonna be laid out minus no shelves and decided that would be the easiest and safest route.

Also why I wanted to use the self tapping screws so I could change it up real easy if I wanted. Last night taking a strip off wasn’t too difficult. One thing I don’t like is how they poke out the top. But nothing going up there anyways.
 
I know the screws are safe and am fine with securing the screws. But I may pull of each strip tonight to drop some thermal paste under each strip just for added efficiency. Seems like a lot of threads and people speak of that evening no heat sink is required. But then again HLG boards on heat sinks don’t require any thermal paste.
 
Skoal said:
I know the screws are safe and am fine with securing the screws. But I may pull of each strip tonight to drop some thermal paste under each strip just for added efficiency. Seems like a lot of threads and people speak of that evening no heat sink is required. But then again HLG boards on heat sinks don’t require any thermal paste.
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I recommend it. It will actually improve efficiency and your strips will last longer. It's a small investment and it's worthwhile
 
I think I’m also going to add some plastic washers for the screws for added safety on the top of the board. This will prohibit any sketchy contact that may happen on the screw on top of the board and cut down on how much they poke out.

But fuck. I can’t find a big thing of thermal paste at my computer store. The small syringes are $9.99 and I assume I’m going to need a lot more than one to ensure the whole strips are covered. At least pulling them off and reassembling them will be easy. And the holes are already there for the screws so I won’t need to worry about re lining them up.

Thinking about running my thermal paste in a small bead down the Center of the board is that when I push it down and fasten it with the screws it’ll cause the paste to spread evenly. Would this not be a good approach oppose to spreading it across the entire strip yourself? I know you are only suppose to do a small bead when using it on a cpu and the heatsink flattens and spreads the paste out when you push it on. Could the same technique not be used for the strips?
 
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Skoal said:
I think I’m also going to add some plastic washers for the screws for added safety on the top of the board. This will prohibit any sketchy contact that may happen on the screw on top of the board and cut down on how much they poke out.

But fuck. I can’t find a big thing of thermal paste at my computer store. The small syringes are $9.99 and I assume I’m going to need a lot more than one to ensure the whole strips are covered. At least pulling them off and reassembling them will be easy. And the holes are already there for the screws so I won’t need to worry about re lining them up.

Thinking about running my thermal paste in a small bead down the Center of the board is that when I push it down and fasten it with the screws it’ll cause the paste to spread evenly. Would this not be a good approach oppose to spreading it across the entire strip yourself? I know you are only suppose to do a small bead when using it on a cpu and the heatsink flattens and spreads the paste out when you push it on. Could the same technique not be used for the strips?
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Good call on the washers. The thermal paste at most computer stores is way overpriced. Your best best bet for larger applications is this stuff right here https://www.amazon.ca/Compound-Heat...ocphy=9047940&hvtargid=pla-625806299689&psc=1

It's 18 bucks but you get 20 times the amount of those little arctic tubes.

I like to use a brush or one of those little silicone paddle things to apply it. Smooshing it is ok but it makes a bit of a mess unless you apply just the perfect amount.
 
I just ordered that thermal tape and gonna use aluminum u channel. Not going the full width of the strip tho. Seen a few pics of the thermal distribution on the back and think smaller stock shoul be fine. Definitely thumbs up on washers, I would just use electrical tape and cut small squares. It will hold up well and you just screw through it.
 
sonmanc said:
I just ordered that thermal tape and gonna use aluminum u channel. Not going the full width of the strip tho. Seen a few pics of the thermal distribution on the back and think smaller stock shoul be fine. Definitely thumbs up on washers, I would just use electrical tape and cut small squares. It will hold up well and you just screw through it.
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Run 2 strips of thinner tape, it's better to cover the board in tape
 
Well I would like to. A few folks dont use heat sync at all at that. I was thinking a small 1.5cm wide u channel to give it a little bit of heat sync and something that can extend past the length of the strip to screw into the frame. I don't know how strong they are on their own as I still have not got mine yet. Cost is a factor however I don't want to go plain sheet either. Trying to find a happy medium. Minimal heat sync, with. Air flow that can rise around each individual strip. If I can find a thin light uchannel that is same width then great. But it has to be strong enough so I can drill a hole past each end to secure each piece.. anyway, that's the plan. Not sure what end result will be until I shop at a few more metal sources. Haven't found a perfect match u channel yet.
 
Any aluminum you choose, as long as the exposed surface area is larger than the actual strip, will increase thermal management capability..... U channel, angle, plain sheet, flashing, or actual designated heatsink design, is really a moot point.
What matters is exposed surface area, so for instance, an actual heatsink, has fins, or pins, that expose far more surface area of aluminum, than say a plain flat bar, or sheet of flashing...
I run EB series Gen1 bare bones, at 1050ma without immediate consequence...That doesn't mean its the "best" way, I just know they can handle it....If one were so inclined to eliminate the variable of the forecasted degradation, caused by this chosen operation method, adding any type of thermal management fixture is advised.
 
No pics yet boys. Got my thermal paste coming in the mail. Once that’s here, will mount all strips to the aluminum sheet. Using plastic washers as well for where the screw connects to the board. Really need the paste soon. My plant is a bloody monster and needs to flower!

1684849A-05AC-4070-974C-43DB353CBC3F.jpeg
 
Ohh sweet. I'm putting that on next I have the seeds, the sativa pheno is the higher % cbd so look like you got the best one . Definitely will stretch a lot and scrog for that is a good idea. looking forward to see how that flowers! I wanna try and make oil out mine. Expensive seeds and not always available. Take a few clones for sure.
 
sonmanc said:
Ohh sweet. I'm putting that on next I have the seeds, the sativa pheno is the higher % cbd so look like you got the best one . Definitely will stretch a lot and scrog for that is a good idea. looking forward to see how that flowers! I wanna try and make oil out mine.
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Oh this plant is a real sturdy girl. I really like the pheno I have. Have 2 rooted clones. And 4 fresh cuttings in DWC. Loving the pheno for sure. I’m feeling it’s the sativa one too. I’ll harvest a tad late to get more red hairs for some sedation. Don’t want all milky trichomes. I can get a scrog net for dirt cheap to clip on to the tent poles. So I hope it’s not difficult to weave all my tops through. Will veg a bit longer in scrog before the flip. Doing this one super slow. And super right. 4oz is the goal.
 
Cbd don't degrade the same and that tiny bit of THC in that plant aged out to CBN sounds like a really good plan. Not like you would really get a buzz from the .5% THC anyway. Love to see your grow thru to finish. I have wait a few months as I already got a set of clones to go in after I finish a grow in the next 2 weeks.
 
Chip Green said:
Lotsa DIY builders get caught up in the "max efficiency" of the whole realm. I don't disagree that it has purpose, but when we're talkin' about 3x3, 4x4 areas, who FN cares if I coulda had an extra 4000 lumens??? The BXEB is a workhorse emitter, for bargain basement pricing. Although, my biggest VEG "lamp" is comprised of Samsung F-series, but those klick ass too....
I've said this before, so I'll say it again, with pride.
I am, THE, consummate Bridgelux EB series fanboy knobjockey.:bigjoint:
Most of my EBs have likely been attached to 3-5 different frames during their service in my operations.
Click to expand...
I like F series :mrgreen:
 
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