thunderbay
Well-Known Member
kool, if 33 is good so be it
Let's talk serious SCROG
- Thread starter profgrow
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thunderbay
Well-Known Member
newest pics, had a growth spurt since feeding
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legallyflying
Well-Known Member
well if you want to get tehcnical, it also depends on what your temperatures are. 33 and 75. Cool and the gang.. fucking ideal for late flower actually.
33% and 85. umm, your plants are going to really be working to keep themselves cool.
Here is a general humidity and temp guide. shoot for the green zones or near them. Cannbis in late flower however likes it dry to maximize oil production. Just avoid dry and hot as you'll essentially vaporize all those yummy smelling and tasting VOCs.
Full article that is a excellent read for the serious grower: http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/07/plantworks-part-1-humidity-and-vapor-pressure-deficit/
33% and 85. umm, your plants are going to really be working to keep themselves cool.
Here is a general humidity and temp guide. shoot for the green zones or near them. Cannbis in late flower however likes it dry to maximize oil production. Just avoid dry and hot as you'll essentially vaporize all those yummy smelling and tasting VOCs.
Full article that is a excellent read for the serious grower: http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/07/plantworks-part-1-humidity-and-vapor-pressure-deficit/
legallyflying
Well-Known Member
I try to keep mine in the 60 range during veg cause I run it a little hot with co2 but I try to keep it around 50 for the first couple weeks of flower and 40 the last couple weeks.
profgrow
Active Member
That is a great chart, those higher temps have pretty high humidity values though, looks like a breeding ground for bacteria and molds but for the plants sake it makes sense.
Bad Photo update time!
Magnetic ballasts make me cry, I could use another light source for photos but I don't like to turn off my light just to wait for it to turn on again.
Bad Photo update time!
Magnetic ballasts make me cry, I could use another light source for photos but I don't like to turn off my light just to wait for it to turn on again.
legallyflying
Well-Known Member
Looking good guys. I'm going to post up pics of my scrog tonight 
Just put the screens into place. preparing for blast off
Just put the screens into place. preparing for blast off
legallyflying
Well-Known Member
YO Bitches. You want to seem some SCROG? Here is some fucking SCROG. Shooting for 6lbs this run
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Great SCROG thread guys! I have 4 seedlings in 8 gallon air pots right now and am still debating on whether I want to scrog or not. I just finished the book by West Coast Masters where they train each plant by topping, then LST'ing until each plant has 64 colas. They have a 4ft x 4ft hortitrellis going over the plant and each cola has its own 6 inch square. I'm debating on using this technique by training and Lst'ing each plant til it has 16 colas which would be 64 overall and have the 4x4 hortitrellis scroging the 4 plants. I would think that the 16 colas would all be massive per plant. What do you guys think? Under a 1000 watt hph btw, and am debating adding a 400 or 600 watter to it when flowering begins. I still have some time to throw around my approach on this grow. So lettme know what you guys think? peace
profgrow
Active Member
Sounds like an interesting proposal, I don't know of any strain that needs a 6 inch screen hole for each top, you may end up with a lot of open canopy.
1-2 inch holes are really ideal, at least in my experience. The smaller the hole in your screen is, the easier it is to manipulate the direction the branch is growing, alot of scroggers use 4 inch, that works great as well but bigger than that and the branch kinda gets to do what it wants, it can be hard to get an even canopy when it takes 2 weeks for a branch to go under one hole and up into the next.
I must admit, I haven't read the book you speak of. There are so many marijuana horticulture guides out there and so many of them use dated information, at this point I get more "bad info" from published works than from forums like this. Another grower friend of mine swears by one book they got when they first got started and over the time I have known them they have progressed very little, using basic info, a good portion of it incorrect IE; "taking clippings from a budding plant is fine and will not effect potency". This is published information that is just not true. I would be very wary of any paper-copy books on marijuana horticulture, anyone can write them and publishers will produce them because there is a market for it, nobody really checks the information before it land on shelves.
This is all just my opinion. Like I said, I have not read the book you speak of but I have read many books over the years and learned one thing; Marijuana is a weed, ideal conditions for growing are the same as really any other plant and everyone does it different, some people run 6.8 ph and flower with 10 hrs of light, this isn't wrong per-say, the plant will grow under these conditions, the other truth is that many people that have grown marijuana for years don't know what potency truly is. I have spoken to people that grew buds with maybe 10% thc and thought it was "the best thing the ever had". There are still growers out there that think more "hairs" mean more potency.
In the end I would say take every bit of advice with a grain of salt, what works for one may not work for another.
I got into a bit of a rant there, most of that was not focused at your question, more at growers in general. Be happy with what you grow, don't tell others what you do is "better" because to them it may not be.
EDIT:
After I posted this i went to read some excerpts from the book... I am an adult and can admit when I am wrong and in this case I am. West Coast Masters are very knowledgeable growers that have compiled an excellent reference material for medical growers. I will be purchasing they're book and when I am done reading it in full I am sure I will be recommending it.
1-2 inch holes are really ideal, at least in my experience. The smaller the hole in your screen is, the easier it is to manipulate the direction the branch is growing, alot of scroggers use 4 inch, that works great as well but bigger than that and the branch kinda gets to do what it wants, it can be hard to get an even canopy when it takes 2 weeks for a branch to go under one hole and up into the next.
I must admit, I haven't read the book you speak of. There are so many marijuana horticulture guides out there and so many of them use dated information, at this point I get more "bad info" from published works than from forums like this. Another grower friend of mine swears by one book they got when they first got started and over the time I have known them they have progressed very little, using basic info, a good portion of it incorrect IE; "taking clippings from a budding plant is fine and will not effect potency". This is published information that is just not true. I would be very wary of any paper-copy books on marijuana horticulture, anyone can write them and publishers will produce them because there is a market for it, nobody really checks the information before it land on shelves.
This is all just my opinion. Like I said, I have not read the book you speak of but I have read many books over the years and learned one thing; Marijuana is a weed, ideal conditions for growing are the same as really any other plant and everyone does it different, some people run 6.8 ph and flower with 10 hrs of light, this isn't wrong per-say, the plant will grow under these conditions, the other truth is that many people that have grown marijuana for years don't know what potency truly is. I have spoken to people that grew buds with maybe 10% thc and thought it was "the best thing the ever had". There are still growers out there that think more "hairs" mean more potency.
In the end I would say take every bit of advice with a grain of salt, what works for one may not work for another.
I got into a bit of a rant there, most of that was not focused at your question, more at growers in general. Be happy with what you grow, don't tell others what you do is "better" because to them it may not be.
EDIT:
After I posted this i went to read some excerpts from the book... I am an adult and can admit when I am wrong and in this case I am. West Coast Masters are very knowledgeable growers that have compiled an excellent reference material for medical growers. I will be purchasing they're book and when I am done reading it in full I am sure I will be recommending it.
legallyflying
Well-Known Member
=
The screen is 40" off the ground, it sits 2' above the buckets. I am shooting for all the colas to end up about 12-16 inches above the screen which will put my hoods about 16" over the plants...which is the ideal height for that hood for the most even light saturation of a 3.3' by 3.3 area.
The left side of the grow is alll whit widow/big bud, the right side is a mix of Ak47 and channel +.
thunderbay
Well-Known Member
are you saying 57 more days of veg ?.......
profgrow
Active Member
No, the pics I was talking about are of flowering plants, 57 more days of flower
luv2grow
Well-Known Member
nice working height. R u in soil? Think im gonna raise my screen on the next one.
I Put up the light mover today. Redoing the entrance. I'll post some pics when i get the door done.
It's cool man, It is a good book tho. Great pictures and very upto date. A lot of the info is common in every cannabis book; besides their training technique. Basically each plant has a square wood diagram around it, that has numbers on it that correlate with a particular branch of the plant. It's just so you know exactly where the plant will be to utilize all the space. They say they usually average a quarter-half off each cola and every plant they grow has exactly 64 colas. The 6 inch netting maybe be a little big... maybe I'll use the 4 inch netting and utilize every hole with my 4 plants... decisions decisions