AJ’s_stash
Member
Thanks, I kept it super simple. I used FFOF soil, Advance Nutrients Ph perfect A+B Grow/Bloom, and the pot was 1.25 gallons. During flowering she got some white powdery mildew so I used a foliage spray but that’s it.
My second windowsill grow. Hoping to learn from the mistakes of my first one...
- Thread starter MonsterMagnet
- Start date
MonsterMagnet
Member
Right.... I'm about ready to shift these little guys into their bigger, 11 litre pots...
They smell sweet already!!!
I've done a lot of reading & it seems, as someone already warned, that there's a huge debate on whether or not autos need transplanting (should I have started them off in the large pots?) and what to do when you do transplant them (fluffing the roots, for instance).
Also, the choice of soils is mind-boggling so I'm going with stuff that has these specs...
Thoughts?
They smell sweet already!!!
I've done a lot of reading & it seems, as someone already warned, that there's a huge debate on whether or not autos need transplanting (should I have started them off in the large pots?) and what to do when you do transplant them (fluffing the roots, for instance).
Also, the choice of soils is mind-boggling so I'm going with stuff that has these specs...
- Little to moderately decomposed white peat, together with the volcanic rock perlite.
- Black peat for optimized water storage capacity and water absorption.
- Multi-nutrient fertilizer promoting healthy plant growth and nutrient supply for up to 4 weeks.
- Natural fungus Trichoderma to increase tolerance to environmental stress and promote root development.
Thoughts?
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AJ’s_stash
Member
From my experience I find doing photoperiods as the best option for window grows….you can grow them bigger, train them, and defoliate as needed. You have more time and can potentially get a bigger yield. If I was you I’d keep them in the current pots and top dress them with a good amendment, or start giving them other nutrients weekly. They’re also pretty small to be transplanted…..they’ll definitely suffer from stress at current age/ number of leaf sets which will put you even further behind in growth. With autoflowers it’s a race against time to get them as big as possible. Most of the time people who do autoflowers are growing a large amount of them because you get a far smaller yield. Hope this helps
MonsterMagnet
Member
So, are you suggesting I wait before the transplant? Until they’re larger & stronger? Or that I keep them in these pots for the full growth & flowering period? They’re tiny pots.
GeneralTso1205
Member
Correct. U need that supplemental.
AJ’s_stash
Member
How big are the pots? And yes usually I wait to transplant till 4-5 sets
MonsterMagnet
Member
They're 11cm in diameter & 11 cm deep.
I'm fine with waiting. Kinda wary of over-watering them but I'll go easy.
I have a bottle of Bio-Bloom plant food ready to use too. When is a good time to start using it?
I think it's supposed to be more for when the plants are flowering.
(apologies for all the questions but there are so many conflicting opinions on all this).
"...I’d keep them in the current pots and top dress them with a good amendment, or start giving them other nutrients weekly..."
What did you mean by good amendments? Do you think topping them will force a better yield?
AJ’s_stash
Member
No worries….i try to keep things straight forward and simple and learn as I go, then I’ll make changes/make my grow more complicated or advanced. So top dressing refers to taking soil that has nutrients or fertilizers in them and putting that on top of the existing soil in your pot (top dressing). When you water your plants those nutrients will go into the soil beneath and the roots will uptake said nutrients. A good soil to top dress with would be Fox Farms Ocean Forest. The nutrients in that soil will last 4 weeks so you won’t have to worry about other feedings till those 4 weeks are up. I use Big Foot Mycorrhizae concentrate every three weeks as well to help with water and nutrient uptake and keep the soil healthy. I wouldn’t top your plant…topping will stunt your plant at least 1 week….maybe longer as yours have less light. I would leave your plants in those pots….i’ve grown autos successfully in solo cups. Don’t start using bloom nutes till about the second week of flower.
MonsterMagnet
Member
DAY 16...
I like the idea of top dressing. There's plenty of space in the top of my pots & if I do tranfer them to larger pots later on it sounds like the nutrient/fertilizer properties will integrate slightly into the existing soil (so it won't be a completely new experience in the upgraded soil, if that makes sense?)
I've also been reading into bottom-watering & may well do that, once I can see a few roots emerging from the bottom holes in the pots. It strikes me as a more subtle & effective way of giving them the amount of water needed, and not overwatering through the top.
Again though, mixed opinions on nutrients. I may try quarter of the recommended dosage per litre, now that I'm past the 14 day stage.
I like the idea of top dressing. There's plenty of space in the top of my pots & if I do tranfer them to larger pots later on it sounds like the nutrient/fertilizer properties will integrate slightly into the existing soil (so it won't be a completely new experience in the upgraded soil, if that makes sense?)
I've also been reading into bottom-watering & may well do that, once I can see a few roots emerging from the bottom holes in the pots. It strikes me as a more subtle & effective way of giving them the amount of water needed, and not overwatering through the top.
Again though, mixed opinions on nutrients. I may try quarter of the recommended dosage per litre, now that I'm past the 14 day stage.
MonsterMagnet
Member
So, I think I've made my first mistake...
Because they're auto-flowering I should've planted my germinated seedlings straight into their final pots - in my case an 11 litre one. My seedling pots are tiny in comparison (probably less that 1 litre). I'm kicking myself for not noticing this!
Questions for the hive mind...
Should I keep them in these tiny pots? Won't that drastically reduce the yield?
I've already had one of you suggesting that I stick with the small pots.
If I do transplant them, can I use the new soil I've bought?
It's kinda designed for weed growing but it's different to the soil the seedlings are in now.
I could simply buy more of the stuff they're in now (soil for herbs & small plants).
As I have 4 different pots I could just try different methods with each plant, it just complicates things more.
Because they're auto-flowering I should've planted my germinated seedlings straight into their final pots - in my case an 11 litre one. My seedling pots are tiny in comparison (probably less that 1 litre). I'm kicking myself for not noticing this!
Questions for the hive mind...
Should I keep them in these tiny pots? Won't that drastically reduce the yield?
I've already had one of you suggesting that I stick with the small pots.
If I do transplant them, can I use the new soil I've bought?
It's kinda designed for weed growing but it's different to the soil the seedlings are in now.
I could simply buy more of the stuff they're in now (soil for herbs & small plants).
As I have 4 different pots I could just try different methods with each plant, it just complicates things more.
twentyeight.threefive
Well-Known Member
I transplant and up pot ALL my plants, photos and autos.
They look fine in the pots they are in now, looks like there is plenty of space for the roots with how small the plants are. All your photos show the plants soil very wet. How often are you giving them water? That soil needs to dry out before you give them any more water or nutrients.
You can transplant autos but best done within two weeks very carefully it don't affect em but after that your more likely to stunt em not saying ya can't do it just it's alot more risky
MonsterMagnet
Member
I top-dressed all of them & gave them a bit of water but I'm not giving them any more for at least the next 2 days.
We're getting a lot of sun next week so I'm hoping they'll pick up & the soil will dry out more so I can make the switch.
I've decided to transplant 3 & keep 1 in the small pot for comparison.
I'm also going to add a thin layer of Mycorrhizae to the holes that the seedlings will go into.
I've got a big bottle of nutrients that I'll start using closer (or during) the flowering stage.
amneziaHaze
Well-Known Member
Transplant more is allways better.root will continue to grow i think until flowering
twentyeight.threefive
Well-Known Member
I’d strongly suggest letting those plants fill out more before transplanting. Moving an underdeveloped plant can be disastrous for it. Lack of a solid rootball can stress it out when all the dirt falls apart around it.
MonsterMagnet
Member
I'm in two minds. There's just so many conflicting opinions on this...
Transplant within 2 weeks of growth.
Transplant when there are 4-6 visible nodes.
Transplant when the leaves match the diameter of the pot (which I'm leaning towards).
Transplant but don't touch the roots.
Transplants & fluff out the roots.
Don't transplant at all & let them grow in their original pots.
I get the feeling, as long as it's done right, they won't be shocked & stunted. Done wrong & obviously I could fuck up the whole grow.
I've got good hands & I know how to do it quickly, I just have to decide on the right time.
Thanks for all the comments, people. It really helps!
MonsterMagnet
Member
DAY 21.
OK, 3 are in 11 litre pots & I'm keeping one in a small pot...
Still pretty small but I guess that's how it goes with windowsill grows. We'll see how the next week develops, regarding possible shock.
I made the transplant as smooth as possible, remembering to add Mycorrhizae the area making contact with the roots.
Apart from a healthy glug of water (just enough to see a little run-through) I'm gonna leave them be for 5 days, maybe moving the to the back of the flat for some evening sun.
OK, 3 are in 11 litre pots & I'm keeping one in a small pot...
Still pretty small but I guess that's how it goes with windowsill grows. We'll see how the next week develops, regarding possible shock.
I made the transplant as smooth as possible, remembering to add Mycorrhizae the area making contact with the roots.
Apart from a healthy glug of water (just enough to see a little run-through) I'm gonna leave them be for 5 days, maybe moving the to the back of the flat for some evening sun.
MonsterMagnet
Member
And a question...
I want to start some LST on "Steve" but I'm not sure if it's too early.
Tiny leaves are developing above the second node but maybe I should wait to use node 3 or 4 instead?
I want to start some LST on "Steve" but I'm not sure if it's too early.
Tiny leaves are developing above the second node but maybe I should wait to use node 3 or 4 instead?
MickFoster
Well-Known Member
Steve needs more soil to cover some of the elongated weak stem.
I would top first before doing lst.........but that's me.
Why would you give 3 of your 4 plants male names?
I would top first before doing lst.........but that's me.
Why would you give 3 of your 4 plants male names?
MonsterMagnet
Member
Good call. I can do that.
Why not
I know, it's a female plant, but I like choosing random names.I'm not concerned with gender & like to choose dead musicians, male or female.
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