new vero 29 gen 7 driver questions

verticalgrow

verticalgrow

Well-Known Member
The Dawg said:
Yep That's The Ticket. I Have A 320 1400mA Inventronics Driver Just Waiting For Me To buy Some 50 Volt Gen 7's :hump:

Now If You really Want To Be Bobs Uncle You Could Get The 72 Volt Gen 7's And Get A Pair Of HLG 185 1400mA And Run 2 Gen 7's. That Way You Could Have A 4 Cobs Setup Running 420 Watts :weed:
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g'day Dawg,

Would the 72v gen7's 3500k 80CRI be 60%eff @ 700ma?
thx VG :eyesmoke:
 
Skybound420

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
Hi, this is my first post on RIU, so my apologies if unearthing old threads is frowned upon over here. I've been running 600 watt HIDs for a few years, most recently in a 3'6" squared space, but as you guessed, my girls are taking a beating in the summer months so I've been doing my best to 'nut up' on converting my grow to COBs. However, I am on a really tight budget so I found a 6 COB affordable kit that I tried to reverse engineer, but my research suggested that the VERO29's a very good chips for the price and I made a last minute switch. So now I have 6 V29's(D) in the mail and also an HLG320-1050. I assumed that if I select a chip that has the same FV as the original kit, I should be ok, but now I'm having a lot of second thoughts and want to know if I should order a different driver to run them? My supplies will be arriving in 2-3 days, but if I need to exchange the drivers for more appropriately sized ones, I will. I can run my HIDs at 50-75% in the meantime so not to stress my Kushes out too much.

Here are links to the kit I am modeling my build off of, and also a link to the chips I ordered. As of now, my order is just 6 heat sinks, a driver and 6 chips plus thermal pads. I still need to acquire potentiometers, 18awg wire, and materials to build the frames. I have a 3D printer which I suspect will come in handy for the build. Any advise or other added wisdom that can be shared will be most appreciated.

RapidLED - luminus-3-x-3-grow-kit
RapidLED - vero29-3000k-80-cri-d

Sorry, I'm not able to post links yet.

A final question, is anybody using Arduinos or ESPs for PWM dimming to mimic sunrise/sunset?
 
klx

klx

Well-Known Member
That driver will easily run them. I think it could run 8.

6 Vero 29 Ds run at 1050mA will not replace a 600W HPS though, not a chance.

You would need 6 Vero 29Cs run at 1050 for a straight swap.
 
Skybound420

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
Thank for the reply klx. I'm now looking for the C array, and at least on RapidLED's site they only have V29SE chips for $8 more per chip, so before I try to work out the exchange, can you elaborate just a bit more as to what kind of results I might expect from the D chips on that driver? With my HID, I struggle to hit a pound per harvest, and have to deal with some minor deficiencies here and there, but generally I am hoping to remain in that range with the COBs. Is it possible to achieve similar results with the D chips? If no, I will have to exchange the 12 COBs for the SE ones, but the numbers on the SE datasheet do look impressive.
 
W

Wezonit

Active Member
I run 6 Vero 29 D with the 480h-c2100b and kill it. Average 1.5lbs per 4x4 and I'm growing organic. In 3000k the "d" version is the most efficient per there datasheet just an fyi. Veros love to be run at there nominal current (2100). Been running veros for 3 years now non stop. Have also made and sold over 100 480w panels and no issues so far. I would use the 320h-c1400b or 480h-c2100 if you have enough cooling.
 

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BuddyColas

BuddyColas

Well-Known Member
Wezonit said:
I run 6 Vero 29 D with the 480h-c2100b and kill it. Average 1.5lbs per 4x4 and I'm growing organic. In 3000k the "d" version is the most efficient per there datasheet just an fyi. Veros love to be run at there nominal current (2100). Been running veros for 3 years now non stop. Have also made and sold over 100 480w panels and no issues so far. I would use the 320h-c1400b or 480h-c2100 if you have enough cooling.
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A hundred panels? Sounds like you're making some friends! Are you using a heatsink from Heatsink USA? If so, please include type and size. A picture of the fin side would be nice. Seems panels and strips are the rage, and I have some, but I started with and still use Vero 29s version 6 in 3500K.
 
Skybound420

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
To start up, I was planning to use passive cooling across the pin heat sink. I have adequate circulation and ventilation in my rooms and was hoping to "get away with" that. Currently though, I have to leads to follow and IDK which of the two has more merit. One suggestion is to swap out my D array chips for C array, and the other suggestion is to up my driver from 1050 to 1400-2100. If I need to swap my chips, it'll cost me an added $96. If I should swap out the drivers, they are all the same price for the 320H - 1050/1400/1750/2100 which boggles me. I knew I should've gotten the highest rated ones for the price, but lack of knowledge held me from going that route.

So to recap, I'm awaiting a pair of HLG320H- C1050B drivers and a dozen Vero29 (80/3000/D) chips. It'll be cheaper to swap out the drivers, so will I get similar results from both suggestions?
 
nfhiggs

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
Wezonit said:
Yes heatsink usa 10" profile 24" long.
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Damn that's an expensive profile - $82 for 24 inches. FWIW, one of the more cost effective profiles is the 7.984 - about 60% of the cost of the 10", per square inch of dissipative surface area. A 32" piece is good for 450W active at only $45, compared to 21" of the 10" at $74
 
Mcgician

Mcgician

Well-Known Member
Wezonit said:
I run 6 Vero 29 D with the 480h-c2100b and kill it. Average 1.5lbs per 4x4 and I'm growing organic. In 3000k the "d" version is the most efficient per there datasheet just an fyi. Veros love to be run at there nominal current (2100). Been running veros for 3 years now non stop. Have also made and sold over 100 480w panels and no issues so far. I would use the 320h-c1400b or 480h-c2100 if you have enough cooling.
Click to expand...
Hello @Wezonit . I'm brand new to LEDS as well but believe I chose 2 fixtures very well. I bought 2 Timber FATTY VS's and just started flowering Grease Monkey under them a couple nights ago. I would like to replicate the lighting setup with 2 more fixtures, but would rather build the unit to save some $. $2,600 for "2" lights is definitely the most money I've ever spent as I've been using hps for 20 plus years now. The 2 Timbers I have now use 9, Vero 29 Gen 7 COBS per fixture, and 3 Meanwell HLG 320H C1400 B drivers. Being a seasoned grower but literally brand new to LED growing, I don't have the first clue where to go about sourcing these components, or how to wire them. With a little guidance, I'm sure I could do it though. Would you be willing to help me out with how to get started on this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. This the link to the 2 lights I bought.

http://timbergrowlights.com/fatty-vs/
 
Skybound420

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
I'm still trying to figure out my dilemma so can someone answer a question? In my other electronics projects, it's always a good idea to use a power supply that can source more current than the load can use. Is this true when considering a driver to run multiple COBs?
 
nfhiggs

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
Skybound420 said:
I'm still trying to figure out my dilemma so can someone answer a question? In my other electronics projects, it's always a good idea to use a power supply that can source more current than the load can use. Is this true when considering a driver to run multiple COBs?
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If you are running them in parallel, yes, its good to have a bit of a current buffer.. In series, with Constant Current power supplies, you want just a little extra voltage.
 
Skybound420

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
I'm recreating the Vero29 (6 COB/3x3) kit from RapidLED and have the V29 (D) COBs. The Vf for each COB @ 2100mA is 38.7 and totals 232.2. I just ordered the HLG480 C2100B driver as used as an option with that kit, however the V range for constant current for that driver is 114-229V. Clearly the driver falls short of the 232.2 mark by 3.2 volts. I am hoping that those 3.2 volts aren't a deal breaker, especially since this has to be the combo the seller is selling. This being my first COB build, and wanting to swap out my 600w HIDs, I feel the added current range will give me leeway to find my sweet spot of intensity.
 
W

Wezonit

Active Member
Skybound420 said:
I'm recreating the Vero29 (6 COB/3x3) kit from RapidLED and have the V29 (D) COBs. The Vf for each COB @ 2100mA is 38.7 and totals 232.2. I just ordered the HLG480 C2100B driver as used as an option with that kit, however the V range for constant current for that driver is 114-229V. Clearly the driver falls short of the 232.2 mark by 3.2 volts. I am hoping that those 3.2 volts aren't a deal breaker, especially since this has to be the combo the seller is selling. This being my first COB build, and wanting to swap out my 600w HIDs, I feel the added current range will give me leeway to find my sweet spot of intensity.
Click to expand...
It's actually 37.6 per COB and yes you will be fine. 480w of V29 is gonna wipe the floor with a 600w HPS
 
Skybound420

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
Someone above actually suggested I get the C type, but when looking at the datasheets, the D is the lowest voltage and I can't figure out how to group 6 C types onto one driver. I think the SE's are just poke in like the back side of duplex outlets where you push the stripped wire into the hole to make the electrical connection.

Edit - In order to save on build costs, I want to build my own frame/fixture. What are you all using? I'm leaning towards 1" or 1.25" square aluminum tubing (1/8" thick). Just for the driver plus 6 heatsinks is 22.5 pounds.
 
Skybound420

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
I have a wire routing question. Is it ok to snake the wires through the pins of the heat sink as pictured, or should I run the wires straight to the top of the pins then route them outside of the cooling zone? I ask because I don't quite know what kind of heat I'll be encountering. FWIW, those are 70-80 watt heat sinks and they'll be cooling Vero 29 (D) chips that are driven from the HLG480 C2100B driver. I'm guessing they'll run somewhere between 60-80% to achieve what my 600w HID does in growth and yields. Still, I don't know what kind of heat I'll encounter, so IDK if snaking the wiring through the pins will be an issue or not.

build.jpg wiring.jpg
 
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