Ttystikk's vertical goodness

qroox

Well-Known Member
Okay, cool- glad folks are curious! To address your observation, I did this in order to place the plant where it made the most sense to me. First, if the stalk and branches are on the outside, I can more easily manipulate and clip them to the trellis. Second, I stuff the growing tips through the trellis, which effectively locates them at the exact optimum distance from the bulb- and of course they get unobstructed access to the light, as well.

I've competed one run and I've got two more going, each with lessons learned from the last crops, good and bad. So far, I've discovered that I must guard against seeing the plant choke itself by letting it get too dense and tight- and thus larfy.
Hey mate.Nice grow and nice looking plants.Keep em GREEN!!..I'm going vertically after my vegging is done and i'd like to drop a few questions.You've got your shit together and you're into vertical already,so i'd like to hear what you think.I was thinking to place chicken wire around my 400watter and prevent any plant from touching it ? Or place some sort of fence around the plants ( each and every) to prevent them from growing it out ? I'm thinking that doing them 1 by 1 sure takes some space,and it will be a hell to manage.What's your thoughts on that ? I will do probably 8-10 plants inside 1.5m*1.5m*2m growtent,and it will be FULL if i'll add all those types of fencing.I'll definitely get a fan under the bulb (it will be bare) and cross my fingers for a nice harvest.Your thoughts ?
 

qroox

Well-Known Member
I was also thinking i could place some kind of netting around the bulb instead of the walls,and get them to grow there.I'm using 400 watts so i'd probably have to get a little closer to get more efficient..
 

tystikk

Member
I was also thinking i could place some kind of netting around the bulb instead of the walls,and get them to grow there.I'm using 400 watts so i'd probably have to get a little closer to get more efficient..
Okay, lots of good questions here, hope I don't forget any!

First, I run a vertical bare thouie and I don't aim a fan at the bulbs. With two bulbs, I'm running it on a trial basis.

My theory for the trellis is in several parts;
1. Fence holds plants up- the trellis and the plants really act in conjunction; the plants root and stalk locate the trellis cylinder, and the semi rigid sections of mesh keep the plant upright and oriented.
2. Fence holds plants in proper position- in order to capture light efficiently, the distance from the filament to the leaf must be managed as effectively as possible. I'm training these things into the shape of a shoe tree the size of the entire closet door, six feet tall by four full feet wide. Every lateral branch is therefore laid sideways across the trellis, so it curves around the bulb only enough to maintain this optimum distance. It's then vine clipped into place, to cover that portion of trellis. The plant continues to grow up and out during stretch and the branches are all handled the same way.
3. Fence guarantees optimum distance- I built my trellis to be exactly two feet from the bulb on all sides, because I want the plants to be within the 'goldilocks zone' of optimum distance from the bulb, all the way around. If I had it to do over, I might go with a somewhat larger diameter, and indeed I have with the five foot diameter Super Silo. Of course, it has two thouies in it. The growing tips of the plant occur all along the branches, and ALL of them can now be pushed through the trellis, resulting in a great green wall presented to the bulb, radar dish style. And every last one of them is the perfect distance from the light.
4. Fence keeps people out, lol - I mean goddammit people, does it take a special kind of stupid to try and work around HOT ENERGIZED THOUSAND WATT LIGHT BULBS?!?! Or, an I just missing something here? I turn one off at a time, let it cool for 15 minutes, slip a bulb box over it so I don't get it dirty while I work in there, and voilá! Nice and comfy, plenty roomy, no scorching required, lol Burn marks are not a testament to machismo- only a permanent 'sign' Jeff Foxworthy would recognize!

Moving on- I think your trellis should be about 75cm in diameter and 50cm tall. 75 x pi = 235cm, or a little over 7.5' in total circumference. I think you should consider using something like the 2"x4"x50' mesh fencing available at Home dePot, because chicken wire is too small in two ways; first, the Gage is small enough to cut into stems, second, you can't reach through it or pull the plant through it because the holes are too small.

I think the tent will make things harder to reach and deal with, and will cut air flow. If you need it I understand, but it will not help your yield, IME. YMMV, lol

One plant per foot all the way around would allow for seven and a bit. I run just two around a thouie! But I see no reason it wouldn't work, obviously you flip pretty quickly.

Show us what you come up with!
 

qroox

Well-Known Member
SO fencing holds them in the right position(distance and height).Plants ''climb'' it and you're probably tie anything that needs to be tied ? Did i get that correctly ? Seems easy enough! I had the same image in my mind regarding the mesh fencing.Well i just called it chicken wire,but the size is probably what i'm looking for heh.Thanks a LOT for your insight .I should be constructing it soon,i'll be needing it in a few days ..:)
 

tystikk

Member
I actually let the plants do most of their 'climbing' in the veg tent. Once they hit the trellis, they're going to thicken up, but not run long and lanky because the light is now beside them instead of above. Let them get 75% or so of their final height before moving them onto the trellis. This is my approach and thus far it is serving reasonably well. Once it's on the trellis and pointed into place, you'll want to pay careful attention to all the tips, as some will need to be poked through, others may have grown too far inward and need to be pulled back through and repositioned, and the tips where it grows off the edge/top should be cut off entirely at the edge.
 

tystikk

Member
Tonight the countdown has begun on the Super Silo- it's in place, plants loaded and the trigger has been PULLED, baby! Let's see what she does!
 

qroox

Well-Known Member
aw man that's great.i finally get your point and i'll do some tweaks myself.i'll be checking this thread out.update us often :)
 

dustinpdr420

Well-Known Member
I'm running a 2000 watt vertical setup on horizontal light movers on a flood and drain table. This is my first run with it but I believe its a keeper setup. I love the ease of maintance I can put my hands on every part of every plant. I too use my op for heat as I have my house acting as the lung room so that the air cycles through the house. I like the cyndrilical approach the only downside I see is you lose some square footage due to the inner diameter being smaller than the outer. I'm trying to achieve 1+ gpw I've been getting .9 consistently out of horizontal so we will see. Great grow tystikk.
 

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tystikk

Member
That's awesome! Lookin' good dustin!

You're right about the loss of surface area. This is one reason why I'm increasing the diameter of the silo, in order to minimize this effect.
 

tystikk

Member
Did some of the inglorious back end work that keeps things going last night; like training plants onto their trellis, this is ongoing for the first three weeks of bloom. They stretch to fill in their trellis canopies during this time, and it looks like the upright trellis is already more to their liking.

Transplanted more to keep the perpetual thing going. I'm rearranging my veg so that there's enough room both for batches of rooted clones headed for production and for moms getting big enough to give a dozen cuttings at a time.

I'm still on a quest to run as many different genetics through my setup as I can to determine what strains like this the best in terms of quality and quantity of growth.
 

whodatnation

Well-Known Member
Genetic hunting is a bit difficult in a system sharing medium as different strains feed differently. IME hybrids with long colas do the best in the vert scrog system.

still lurking, obviously bongsmilie


:peace:
 

tystikk

Member
Genetic hunting is a bit difficult in a system sharing medium as different strains feed differently. IME hybrids with long colas do the best in the vert scrog system.

still lurking, obviously bongsmilie


:peace:
Hey there! Glad to see you. I have a few tricks up my sleeve to help some otherwise reluctant varieties get a fair shake. Basically, it amounts to giving them extra time to grow and get big before putting them on the trellis and flipping. We'll see how it works.

As for nutes, while it may seem counterintuitive I've found a single formula- that is, one program fits all- approach has been working well across the board for all strains, save one very picky pheno of cherry lime- so I tossed her. But then, no one else's formulas were working either, lol.

So far, the Dairy Queen looks good and so does the Blue Dream. I've got a couple of interesting phenos I could get a pic or two of as well tomorrow.

Suffice to say that the first full vertical silo run was an unqualified success in terms of how the plants responded to the new environment.
 

Sparky1979

New Member
Do you mean water chilling is good or bad?

ive been trying to find out what is the best temperature.

would appreciate any advice
 

tystikk

Member
Do you mean water chilling is good or bad?

ive been trying to find out what is the best temperature.

would appreciate any advice
Hi Sparky, welcome to Rollitup, I see this is your first post.

I believe water cooling indoor grow spaces is the wave of the present and the future for all the same reasons your car is liquid cooled (unless you're a bug motor aficionado, lol)

I aim for my RDWC water to remain somewhere in the mid sixties Fahrenheit. As long as it drops to 65 at least once every 24 hour cycle it should be able to outcompete any pathogens. If the water is below about 55, then you'll notice the plants start to grow and metabolize more slowly.

I run mine around 61-63, with air temps in the mid 80s and CO² augmentation at 1500ppm through mid bloom.
 
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