Using pk13/13 to supplement a moslty organic grow ????

I read in a thread about organics recently that using chemical (salt) ferts in an organic set up will kill the beneficial soil bacteria, and therefore stopping the breakdown of organic molecules into 'anions' or 'cations' or something. But anyways, is that example for someone using a mostly chemical fertilizer to feed an 'organic live soil' crop ONLY, or will using pk13/14 (only 2ml/gal) alongside 5ml/gal each of grow and bloom natural (humboldt nutes), organic molasses (1tbs/gal) and soil bacteria (mycomadness from hummboldt nutes) be enough to dissolve its bactericidal potency??

Thanks

* i also pH balance to 6.5 using 'structural integrity' pure silicate, also humboldt nutes (about 3ml/gal / week)

*and i have calcific lime in the soil (if that makes any difference to any of u pro's)

and yes i realise this method is not 100% organic, but im simply asking if using a chemical fertiliser like pk13/14, at a low dose and diluted in other 100% organic ferts, will still be able to kill the soil bacteria ive been cultivating up till now?

That 13/14 will kill off a significant amount of your soil's microbiology. If you feel like you need to add something with big numbers... Get some 0.5-12-0.2 Indonesian bat guano, and some 0-0-50 sulfate of potash. Apply math and you can make yourself something like a 0-13-14 if you want. Top dress it and water it in. If your plants are already healthy, I'd skip the sulfate of potash, or use just a little bit. A top dress of guano isn't a bad idea, and will give a nice boost of Phosphorus.

Ya skip the salty nutes and use just your humboldt nutes. I have ran humboldts line up and loved it but now im strictly amended soil and teas. Make sure you bubble your nutrient mix with humboldt organic line for 24hr before feed.

If you get DUECE DUECE 0-0-22 from there line up its all you need......And also check out there website cause they have feeding scheds. mapped out for there organic line for strains ranging in 8 to 10weeks I think and diff scheds for light or heavy feedings.

Also in the site for feeding scheds they have there whole whole line up envolved which would cost a fortune to run....I you have grow and bloom with mycos and molasses plus a couple others your good to go......DOnt get the mayan myco stuff its a waste of time.

If you're at the point in flowering that you were pondering PK 13/14, it's too late to benefit from adding mycorrhiza. It really needs to be added early on, directly to the roots during transplant. It needs to be actually contacting a root in order to live, and it can take weeks to provide any benefit. By the time it's able to assist with providing your plant nutrients, it will be too late.

SpicySativa said:

If you're at the point in flowering that you were pondering PK 13/14, it's too late to benefit from adding mycorrhiza. It really needs to be added early on, directly to the roots during transplant. It needs to be actually contacting a root in order to live, and it can take weeks to provide any benefit. By the time it's able to assist with providing your plant nutrients, it will be too late.

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yes i added soil bacteria from the first watering along with honey ES molasses. I was also firstly using shop bought RO water and then started leavinf tap water out a few days to evaporate the chlorine. Then i ggot concerned when the green hue to the topsoil was washed away around this time, which i guessed was monochloramine, so i went back to shop bought again. I use the pk13/14 only since the last week, and i mix it with the organic nutes mix, so i do not apply it seperately to the soil. i thought that would be enough to dilute its negative effects on the soil bacteria, but as the above two posts say, the pk can still do damage even when diluted in other nutes. So might just give up organics all together on this grow, either that or just stop using pk 13/14 and try get those organic molecules eaten out the soil, as they will prob just b sitting there unused other wise :/ i dunno, its all a learning curve. I just really want to get this next harvest in and then start again with my new knowledge. thanks for all the info everyone +rep to u all

How do your plants look at the moment anyway? Skipping the organics might be the best way if you think you messed it up beyond reapair. With organics things take longer like when I top dress or feed anything organic I don't see results till 2-3days. Chemical wise things work faster of coarse.

If you wanna do it right with organics get a recipe of a soil mix like super soil, there's a lot of diff mixes out there. Super soil is kinda a good beginner mix to get you going in that route.

And nice sig pic.....I used to wrestle in highschool and If that ever happened to me it would turn into a street fight on the dot............. Literally! as in a finger in my anus! what a bitch move.

TheOrganic said:

How do your plants look at the moment anyway? Skipping the organics might be the best way if you think you messed it up beyond reapair. With organics things take longer like when I top dress or feed anything organic I don't see results till 2-3days. Chemical wise things work faster of coarse.

If you wanna do it right with organics get a recipe of a soil mix like super soil, there's a lot of diff mixes out there. Super soil is kinda a good beginner mix to get you going in that route.

And nice sig pic.....I used to wrestle in highschool and If that ever happened to me it would turn into a street fight on the dot............. Literally! as in a finger in my anus! what a bitch move.

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they looked great, the AK48 started flowering a week before the others and once she started filling out the fan leaves turned yellow. I know fan leaves are supposed to turn yellow when plant is ripe but this has only been flowering about 3-4 weeks. Im just worreid that the others are gonna do exactly the same as the ak48 because i added pk13/14 to the whole nute mix earlier this week.
Not sure if ive messed it up to be honest, i guess ill have to wait another couple days to be sure. They got fed wednesday with 50:50 veg/bloom nutes, and so i would expet to see some imporvement in the ak48 by now but nothing as of yesterday (3 days later fro feeding) so i presume that the bacteria culture has been affected from the PK. If it has, then im sure the rest of my plants will show signs soon, and if they do i will have to revert to chemical ferts. The only other problem i have then, is that i will have 1-2 weeks potentially of organic material sitting in teh soil which will be taking up space....? Im not sure how it works, if it will gradually degrade or just remain there all stagnant or not hwile i carry on my grow with chemical fert.

Im definitely gonna go the super soil route next grow and just learn from there onwards, I only want to be bubbling molasses and bacteria together before i add the to the soil. So it will save loaaaaads of time and mess and stink. I think i will only go custom organic when i move out and can have my own greenhouse to bubble that shit away in.

And yeah that pic is just wrong lol and the lok on her face as shes doin it is priceless. I too would skitz out if soemone did that to me

Dude...

I wasn't talking out of my ass when I said you're wasting your money on all the organics your pouring into your soil. If you're using House and Garden nutrients, they are creating an environment where that microlife simply WILL NOT THRIVE. Is there any compost in your medium? Earthworm castings? Have you amended it with any dry organics (blood? bone? guanos? plant meals?)? The purpose of promoting micolife in your soil is to cycle the nutrients contained in compost (or other humic materials) and dry ammendments. If your adding molasses, you might be able to keep some bacteria alive for a short time in your medium, but they have no real food source, and will soon die off or go dormant.

If you want to truly benefit from organics, GROW ORGANIC!

As a side note (the science part):

Remember that science experiment in school where you put a few drops of DI water onto a slide with some living bacteria? If you recall, the bacterial quickly fill with water to the point that they inflate like a balloon until their cell membranes rupture. That's because their cell membranes function through osmosis (DI water flows into the cell in an effort to equalize the dissolved mineral content across the cell membrane). Remember the other experiment you probably did the same day? You add a few drops of salty water to a microscope slide with some living bacterial cells. What happened? They quickly shriveled up and died. Why? Same old osmosis, only this time water is leaving the cell in an attempt to match the dissolved concentrations outside the cell wall. These are very simplified experiments, but they demonstrate that bacteria don't like either extreme (water with nothing in it or water with high levels of dissolved solids, like your nutrient solution). They like moderation (think dechlorinated tap water).

Pouring your House and Garden salt based nutrients into your medium is like scaling up that second experiment. Lots of poor little shriveled up dead bacteria (and no living protazoa to eat them and cycle the nutrients). This stagnant dead matter is a very inviting home for plant pathogens.

See what I'm getting at?

Very insightful, stopped me from f###ing up my grow.
Thanx.