Watering

kratos015

Well-Known Member
If you think you have excess Ca that's locking out the Mg and K. When I say lockout I'm meaning it's harder for the plant to access the nutrients that are actually there. So If you add too much Ca, the plant will want more Mg and K.

It's about a balance.
I don't know if this is making sense.
Balance and simplicity is key in anything in life, you're spot on there.

Same with the Ca:Mg:K ratios, why I started using Langbeinite in the first place actually. My theory was that instead of attempting to lower the Ca ratio, I should use Langbeinite to increase the Mg:K ratios instead of lowering the Ca ones.

Been working quite well for me, not to mention the fact that the Sulfur in Langbeinite is a Sulfate (SO4, salts from sulfuric acid) specifically that is capable of breaking down excess salts and CaCO3 in soil. Stuff has been a godsend for me. Definitely not for everybody, and a little goes a long way. That said, anyone experiencing issues with hard water, Calcitic and/or sodic soils, or God forbid both, then Langbeinite can be useful.

Why people use Gypsum for Calcitic and/or sodic soils; its Calcium Sulfate. So, while adding more Ca seems counterintuitive, the sulfate content in gypsum can actually neutralize excess CaCO3 and any salt build up that has occurred. People often underestimate the fact that, yes, salt build up can certainly happen in a living soil.


But yeah, some were 6.7-6.8 and some were 7.2-7.6 in the living soil and coco. Could it be too much dolomite? I know roots organic comes with some in it and I believe that the DTE 444 has some too. And I add about a half a tbs per gallon of dolomite lime myself. Could that overdo it and up it a little bit? I use the dolomite in the coco too also. Roughly a half a tbs per gallon to a tbs. Too lower the soil ph I just lower the ph of the water I am watering with a little bit right? I usually ph with citric acid to about 6.5, but like I said, when the ph meter broke I was probably up near 7 more
Very well could be; pre-bagged soil is almost always limed already. Adding extra lime to pre-bagged soil can certainly cause problems.

Hopefully the issues being experienced are not related to excess lime, but its very likely this is the issue here. Even though the water source is well water, you've said only 50 ppms, which shouldn't be enough to cause issues.

Look into Langbeinite or even Gypsum to deal with the excess salts/CaCO3 (which is also a salt, technically). In your shoes, I would not attempt to flower until confirming that this issue has been dealt with. These salt/pH/CaCO3 related issues always compound and intensify around week 3-4 of flower. Its a bad time, trust me friend, I've been there plenty. The smoke will still be good, but the yields will be absolutely abysmal.

Citric acid is wonderful for lowering pH. However, if the issue here is related to salts/CaCO3 then no amount of Citric Acid will help because the problem is not pH related but rather salt build up related.



But as of now, they are growing really fast now and getting big. All the leaves are praying on all the plants now, every single one. But I can tell some green is slowly fading on the ones that are near 7.5, so I can see problems starting to possibly come from it. But other than that, they are growing and look relatively happy. Alot happier than they did when I started this Post
Unfortunately, "praying" leaves are actually the beginning stages of Mg deficiencies. The fading green being witnessing confirms this.

The reason being, Mg is vital for photosynthesis and the creation of chlorophyll. The leaves "pray" like that because they are unable to properly absorb sunlight; so the leaves point upwards in a vain and futile attempt to absorb light, which is impossible without Mg be it deficiency or lockout. Good LED lights and DE lights will exacerbate this Mg issue, why?

Increased light spectrum = increased photosynthesis = increased need for Mg.

Hope that helps.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Balance and simplicity is key in anything in life, you're spot on there.

Same with the Ca:Mg:K ratios, why I started using Langbeinite in the first place actually. My theory was that instead of attempting to lower the Ca ratio, I should use Langbeinite to increase the Mg:K ratios instead of lowering the Ca ones.

Been working quite well for me, not to mention the fact that the Sulfur in Langbeinite is a Sulfate (SO4, salts from sulfuric acid) specifically that is capable of breaking down excess salts and CaCO3 in soil. Stuff has been a godsend for me. Definitely not for everybody, and a little goes a long way. That said, anyone experiencing issues with hard water, Calcitic and/or sodic soils, or God forbid both, then Langbeinite can be useful.

Why people use Gypsum for Calcitic and/or sodic soils; its Calcium Sulfate. So, while adding more Ca seems counterintuitive, the sulfate content in gypsum can actually neutralize excess CaCO3 and any salt build up that has occurred. People often underestimate the fact that, yes, salt build up can certainly happen in a living soil.




Very well could be; pre-bagged soil is almost always limed already. Adding extra lime to pre-bagged soil can certainly cause problems.

Hopefully the issues being experienced are not related to excess lime, but its very likely this is the issue here. Even though the water source is well water, you've said only 50 ppms, which shouldn't be enough to cause issues.

Look into Langbeinite or even Gypsum to deal with the excess salts/CaCO3 (which is also a salt, technically). In your shoes, I would not attempt to flower until confirming that this issue has been dealt with. These salt/pH/CaCO3 related issues always compound and intensify around week 3-4 of flower. Its a bad time, trust me friend, I've been there plenty. The smoke will still be good, but the yields will be absolutely abysmal.

Citric acid is wonderful for lowering pH. However, if the issue here is related to salts/CaCO3 then no amount of Citric Acid will help because the problem is not pH related but rather salt build up related.





Unfortunately, "praying" leaves are actually the beginning stages of Mg deficiencies. The fading green being witnessing confirms this.

The reason being, Mg is vital for photosynthesis and the creation of chlorophyll. The leaves "pray" like that because they are unable to properly absorb sunlight; so the leaves point upwards in a vain and futile attempt to absorb light, which is impossible without Mg be it deficiency or lockout. Good LED lights and DE lights will exacerbate this Mg issue, why?

Increased light spectrum = increased photosynthesis = increased need for Mg.

Hope that helps.
I had no idea about the gypsum. I thought I wanted to avoid it.
 

UpInSmoke420$24

Well-Known Member
That makes sense. I am using a mars hydro sp3000 and they are like 22 inches which is close
Balance and simplicity is key in anything in life, you're spot on there.

Same with the Ca:Mg:K ratios, why I started using Langbeinite in the first place actually. My theory was that instead of attempting to lower the Ca ratio, I should use Langbeinite to increase the Mg:K ratios instead of lowering the Ca ones.

Been working quite well for me, not to mention the fact that the Sulfur in Langbeinite is a Sulfate (SO4, salts from sulfuric acid) specifically that is capable of breaking down excess salts and CaCO3 in soil. Stuff has been a godsend for me. Definitely not for everybody, and a little goes a long way. That said, anyone experiencing issues with hard water, Calcitic and/or sodic soils, or God forbid both, then Langbeinite can be useful.

Why people use Gypsum for Calcitic and/or sodic soils; its Calcium Sulfate. So, while adding more Ca seems counterintuitive, the sulfate content in gypsum can actually neutralize excess CaCO3 and any salt build up that has occurred. People often underestimate the fact that, yes, salt build up can certainly happen in a living soil.




Very well could be; pre-bagged soil is almost always limed already. Adding extra lime to pre-bagged soil can certainly cause problems.

Hopefully the issues being experienced are not related to excess lime, but its very likely this is the issue here. Even though the water source is well water, you've said only 50 ppms, which shouldn't be enough to cause issues.

Look into Langbeinite or even Gypsum to deal with the excess salts/CaCO3 (which is also a salt, technically). In your shoes, I would not attempt to flower until confirming that this issue has been dealt with. These salt/pH/CaCO3 related issues always compound and intensify around week 3-4 of flower. Its a bad time, trust me friend, I've been there plenty. The smoke will still be good, but the yields will be absolutely abysmal.

Citric acid is wonderful for lowering pH. However, if the issue here is related to salts/CaCO3 then no amount of Citric Acid will help because the problem is not pH related but rather salt build up related.





Unfortunately, "praying" leaves are actually the beginning stages of Mg deficiencies. The fading green being witnessing confirms this.

The reason being, Mg is vital for photosynthesis and the creation of chlorophyll. The leaves "pray" like that because they are unable to properly absorb sunlight; so the leaves point upwards in a vain and futile attempt to absorb light, which is impossible without Mg be it deficiency or lockout. Good LED lights and DE lights will exacerbate this Mg issue, why?

Increased light spectrum = increased photosynthesis = increased need for Mg.

Hope that helps.
I plan on going into 5 gallons a week or two before flipping to 12 and 12. I am scheduled to go into 5s on Tuesday so if I do that will that help if I leave out the dolomite from this mix. And I believe roots organic soil and the 4 4 4 I use has Langbienite in it.
 

kratos015

Well-Known Member
I had no idea about the gypsum. I thought I wanted to avoid it.
Yeah, I was shocked too. But remember, its mostly for removing salts. Its often used in an agricultural environment to eliminate the salt build up they face annually.

Langbeinite is superior to gypsum for dissolving salt builups, however Gypsum is often cheaper, which really reduces expenses when we're talking such large scale like agricultural fields/farms. Depending on where you live, gypsum can even be found as a waste product of various businesses dealing in sheetrock and the like.

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/324844679_Gypsum_langbeinite_sulfur_and_compost_for_reclamation_of_drastically_disturbed_calcareous_saline-sodic_soils

You might like that article. I've linked it before in the past, but its a very informative read for anyone curious.

The tl;dr of this experiment report is seeing what does a better job of removing salts (CaCO3 included) from soils; Gypsum, Elemental Sulfur, or Langbeinite. The results of the experiment proved that Langbeinite was superior, followed by Gypsum, then Elemental Sulfur.

This makes sense, because Elemental Sulfur needs microbes to "oxidate" the sulfur; converting the S into SO4 (Sulfate). It is the SO4 specifically that breaks the CaCO3 apart, not S.

You'll note that both Langbeinite and Gypsum are sulfates (Magnesium Sulfate Potash and Calcium Sulfate respectively), having SO4 already in their chemical formulas, whereas Elemental Sulfur is just Sulfur, making it useless when compared to gypsum and Langbeinite which act immediately instead of over months of time.

The article even points out how, despite Langbeinite's 0-0-22 NPK, the soil treated with Langbeinite had the same amount of K as the soils treated with Gypsum and Elemental Sulfur, heavily implying that the plants made full use of the large amount of K in Langbeinite with zero ill effects.

All the best!



That makes sense. I am using a mars hydro sp3000 and they are like 22 inches which is close

I plan on going into 5 gallons a week or two before flipping to 12 and 12. I am scheduled to go into 5s on Tuesday so if I do that will that help if I leave out the dolomite from this mix. And I believe roots organic soil and the 4 4 4 I use has Langbienite in it.
Diluting the soil with another medium will definitely help you. However, the issue is that Roots Organic soil will have more Dolomite Lime in it, so this won't help too much.

In your shoes, I'd be looking for a soil that has zero Lime in it. Or, I'd build my own soil mix, using nothing but peat/aeration/compost. I would then transplant into the peat/compost/aeration custom soil I made, proceed to water and top dress as normal, and wait a week or two to observe the results. Ideally, that would solve the issue, but its always best to wait a week or two to confirm the issue has been dealt with.

I'd much rather prolong veg by 2-4 weeks, rather than trigger 12/12 too early, and cut my yields by 50-75% because I did not solve the issue. Rest assured, you can in fact still get good smoke with these issues. However, your yields will be cut severely. A plant that normally yields 4oz, but experiences these issues, will yield 1-1.5oz at best. Trust me, I've had the pleasure of learning this one the hard way.

Even if the 4-4-4 has Langbeinite in it, it likely is not a sufficient amount of Langbeinite to eliminate salt/CaCO3 build up in one's soil. Though, that is assuming salt build up is the issue here. Its a lot like fixing a car or a computer, you want to fix one thing at a time, then observe the results. Changing multiple variables at once will make it difficult for one to pinpoint what the exact issue was, leaving one just as lost as they were when they started.

Issue here could be salt build up, excess Calcium, or excess CaCO3. Unfortunately, the answer is different for pretty much every grower. This is because every grower not only has different soil recipes, but different sources of water (hard/soft/well/RO/etc.), different organic inputs, and different sources of compost.

For my issue, even using pure peat moss with no lime (3.5 pH) was still not enough with my water. My water would still build up CaCO3 salts in the medium after a while, causing that magic 7.5 pH number that lets us growers know what that we have this issue in the first place. I have to buy Calcium filters on eBay just to make my water usable. I know when its time to replace my filter because I start seeing Mg deficiencies immediately, followed by K deficiencies, which means my Ca filter isn't doing its job and the excess Ca build up is now resulting in K and Mg being locked out. P will come next.

Its also worth noting; I never experience this issue with plants in the ground, only in plants that are potted. Why? Because when plants are in the ground, the salts are free to flow below the root zone. The salts still exist and buildup, but it is far below your root zone, resulting in zero issues.

In fabric pots, the salts have nowhere to runoff to, so they get stuck in your soil because they cannot flow outside of the root zone like in the ground.


My best guess is that the issues you're having is related to the excess CaCO3 from the extra Lime that was put into the soil. But without being there, it is only a guess. But now you have plenty of information that will allow you to effectively troubleshoot this issue.

I'm sure you'll be able to fix this issue with ease, its just a matter of finding out what the specific issue is. That said, I would highly recommend waiting until the issue has been troubleshooted prior to initiating 12/12. The thing with these issues is that one will often think the problem has been dealt with, only for it to arise 1-2 weeks later. This is the last thing one wants once they're in flower. You can reverse nearly anything in veg, but you're fucked in flower.



Hope that helps, all the best.
 

UpInSmoke420$24

Well-Known Member
It might not even be salt build up,,.who knows. Because they all keep improving better and better day be day. I honestly really think I stunted the hell out of them by overwatering when I transplanted, and leaving them in the solos a little too long. I had one that took a week to germinate so it was 7 days behind the others. I watered alot less with that one when transplanted to see if that was one of the issues, and sure as shit that one has not has a single issue. It is growing awesome.
 

UpInSmoke420$24

Well-Known Member
and then I think my ph raised too high when my blue lab broke. I will definitely be able to tell next run. I have a shit ton of blackberry moonrocks to test some things out on. I want to use the same strain with some different types of ways to find what works best for me. Will be able to dial things in alittle better if I work with the same genetics.
 

twentyeight.threefive

Well-Known Member
It might not even be salt build up,,.who knows. Because they all keep improving better and better day be day. I honestly really think I stunted the hell out of them by overwatering when I transplanted, and leaving them in the solos a little too long. I had one that took a week to germinate so it was 7 days behind the others. I watered alot less with that one when transplanted to see if that was one of the issues, and sure as shit that one has not has a single issue. It is growing awesome.
Any updated pictures of the 180 recovery of the plants?
 

ComfortCreator

Well-Known Member
It's a long way from page 1 and I just got here. Based upon what you first said, it sounds like you watered every 4 days vs knowing when they really needed water.

That can and will stunt or kill plants.

The next 10 pages was a semi epic show where you slowly calmed down. The best advice I have is simple: there is a big difference between hearing something....and understanding what you heard. Most of the answers here were right, but you are not quite at the point where you understand the nuances. That comes from doing a lot of cycles of growing.

A firey attitude and high intelligence WILL create killer bud if you never allow yourself to get lazy with ANY element of the grow. There are 50 ways that home growers sabotage their almost great grows, usually by ignoring or overlooking something basic.

As for Kratos, once again a post of the year back in this thread where you chastise the forum for getting angry vs helping.

OP that was an epic rant of comments congrats on joining up. You wont believe how much better you will get at this.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Yeah, I was shocked too. But remember, its mostly for removing salts. Its often used in an agricultural environment to eliminate the salt build up they face annually.

Langbeinite is superior to gypsum for dissolving salt builups, however Gypsum is often cheaper, which really reduces expenses when we're talking such large scale like agricultural fields/farms. Depending on where you live, gypsum can even be found as a waste product of various businesses dealing in sheetrock and the like.

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/324844679_Gypsum_langbeinite_sulfur_and_compost_for_reclamation_of_drastically_disturbed_calcareous_saline-sodic_soils

You might like that article. I've linked it before in the past, but its a very informative read for anyone curious.

The tl;dr of this experiment report is seeing what does a better job of removing salts (CaCO3 included) from soils; Gypsum, Elemental Sulfur, or Langbeinite. The results of the experiment proved that Langbeinite was superior, followed by Gypsum, then Elemental Sulfur.

This makes sense, because Elemental Sulfur needs microbes to "oxidate" the sulfur; converting the S into SO4 (Sulfate). It is the SO4 specifically that breaks the CaCO3 apart, not S.

You'll note that both Langbeinite and Gypsum are sulfates (Magnesium Sulfate Potash and Calcium Sulfate respectively), having SO4 already in their chemical formulas, whereas Elemental Sulfur is just Sulfur, making it useless when compared to gypsum and Langbeinite which act immediately instead of over months of time.

The article even points out how, despite Langbeinite's 0-0-22 NPK, the soil treated with Langbeinite had the same amount of K as the soils treated with Gypsum and Elemental Sulfur, heavily implying that the plants made full use of the large amount of K in Langbeinite with zero ill effects.

All the best!





Diluting the soil with another medium will definitely help you. However, the issue is that Roots Organic soil will have more Dolomite Lime in it, so this won't help too much.

In your shoes, I'd be looking for a soil that has zero Lime in it. Or, I'd build my own soil mix, using nothing but peat/aeration/compost. I would then transplant into the peat/compost/aeration custom soil I made, proceed to water and top dress as normal, and wait a week or two to observe the results. Ideally, that would solve the issue, but its always best to wait a week or two to confirm the issue has been dealt with.

I'd much rather prolong veg by 2-4 weeks, rather than trigger 12/12 too early, and cut my yields by 50-75% because I did not solve the issue. Rest assured, you can in fact still get good smoke with these issues. However, your yields will be cut severely. A plant that normally yields 4oz, but experiences these issues, will yield 1-1.5oz at best. Trust me, I've had the pleasure of learning this one the hard way.

Even if the 4-4-4 has Langbeinite in it, it likely is not a sufficient amount of Langbeinite to eliminate salt/CaCO3 build up in one's soil. Though, that is assuming salt build up is the issue here. Its a lot like fixing a car or a computer, you want to fix one thing at a time, then observe the results. Changing multiple variables at once will make it difficult for one to pinpoint what the exact issue was, leaving one just as lost as they were when they started.

Issue here could be salt build up, excess Calcium, or excess CaCO3. Unfortunately, the answer is different for pretty much every grower. This is because every grower not only has different soil recipes, but different sources of water (hard/soft/well/RO/etc.), different organic inputs, and different sources of compost.

For my issue, even using pure peat moss with no lime (3.5 pH) was still not enough with my water. My water would still build up CaCO3 salts in the medium after a while, causing that magic 7.5 pH number that lets us growers know what that we have this issue in the first place. I have to buy Calcium filters on eBay just to make my water usable. I know when its time to replace my filter because I start seeing Mg deficiencies immediately, followed by K deficiencies, which means my Ca filter isn't doing its job and the excess Ca build up is now resulting in K and Mg being locked out. P will come next.

Its also worth noting; I never experience this issue with plants in the ground, only in plants that are potted. Why? Because when plants are in the ground, the salts are free to flow below the root zone. The salts still exist and buildup, but it is far below your root zone, resulting in zero issues.

In fabric pots, the salts have nowhere to runoff to, so they get stuck in your soil because they cannot flow outside of the root zone like in the ground.


My best guess is that the issues you're having is related to the excess CaCO3 from the extra Lime that was put into the soil. But without being there, it is only a guess. But now you have plenty of information that will allow you to effectively troubleshoot this issue.

I'm sure you'll be able to fix this issue with ease, its just a matter of finding out what the specific issue is. That said, I would highly recommend waiting until the issue has been troubleshooted prior to initiating 12/12. The thing with these issues is that one will often think the problem has been dealt with, only for it to arise 1-2 weeks later. This is the last thing one wants once they're in flower. You can reverse nearly anything in veg, but you're fucked in flower.



Hope that helps, all the best.
Awesome man. What about Epsom salt? Wouldn't that work similarly, or not?
 

kratos015

Well-Known Member
Any updated pictures of the 180 recovery of the plants?
Would definitely be helpful for reference, possibly even for people that may experience this issue in the future. Unfortunately it is just a guessing game without seeing what things look like.


and then I think my ph raised too high when my blue lab broke. I will definitely be able to tell next run. I have a shit ton of blackberry moonrocks to test some things out on. I want to use the same strain with some different types of ways to find what works best for me. Will be able to dial things in alittle better if I work with the same genetics.
This was what I ended up doing since I started growing. It took me years to get things dialed in due to how often I was changing things up, but the knowledge and experience that was gained was worth well more than it's weight in weed.



It might not even be salt build up,,.who knows. Because they all keep improving better and better day be day. I honestly really think I stunted the hell out of them by overwatering when I transplanted, and leaving them in the solos a little too long. I had one that took a week to germinate so it was 7 days behind the others. I watered alot less with that one when transplanted to see if that was one of the issues, and sure as shit that one has not has a single issue. It is growing awesome.
Leaving in solos too long can certainly cause stunted plants; at least, until the roots are finally able to start growing into their new home, then they recover quickly.

Hoping that this is all the issue was, then it can be smooth sailing from here. Troubleshooting issues sucks at the time, but the knowledge gained from the experience will be invaluable in the future.


It's a long way from page 1 and I just got here. Based upon what you first said, it sounds like you watered every 4 days vs knowing when they really needed water.

A firey attitude and high intelligence WILL create killer bud if you never allow yourself to get lazy with ANY element of the grow. There are 50 ways that home growers sabotage their almost great grows, usually by ignoring or overlooking something basic.

As for Kratos, once again a post of the year back in this thread where you chastise the forum for getting angry vs helping.

OP that was an epic rant of comments congrats on joining up. You wont believe how much better you will get at this.
Definitely this for sure, and most of the time the issue is watering related. It is embarrassing how long it took for me to finally start looking at the water. Not just the water itself, but how it interacts with everything as a whole.

When issues aren't related to water, then the issue tends to be that of oversimplifying things. Just been my personal experience. I never started to develop as a person until I started realizing that failure is the best teacher.

Regards Comfort!
 

Livingblacksoil

Well-Known Member
I am learning and teaching. I teach what I do now and realized I don't know everything, that is why I am here debating. I want to learn, but also teach people the things I do know for a fact.

And tell me, how do you know which ones are in coco?
My 1st harvest was sooo good. It was Bubbleberry, and the best on Earth at that time( how my body/head synthesized the herb I grew)


They look bad. And tbh I am not sure you should call what you're doing teaching, it's like an 11 year old boy telling an 8 year old boy about sex. You're sharing information that you don't really understand.
 

Livingblacksoil

Well-Known Member
You know what...THANK YOU FOR THAT. That is exactly what im doing. Its not that I am not listening to advice, but I am challenging what your saying just like I want people to do to me. I want people to tell me there opinion, but everyone is so stuck on there own way of growing that they shoe away anyone that ask questions. I am very smart, and probably at the end of this will end up growing more and better weed than any of you. Because I am open minded and asking questions. Its sad how argumentative people on this site are. Like I said, all this shit talk, but if the way I did it DIDN'T WORK then my plants would of died and I would of ended up with nothing. BUT, I did it this same way and EVERY PLANT hit 20 % or higher in testing. SO PLEASE TELL ME HOW IT IS NOT A WAY OF GROWING. Because I have the proof that it works. I have 250 grams from a 200 watt light of some fuckin fire. SO PLEASE TELL ME HOW IT IS WRONG. It may not be YOUR WAY or the best way, but it does work. So to tell people it doesn't work is actually giving false information
IT DOESN'T WORK!

STUDY LIFE!

CONTRARY TO WHAT YOU HAVE BEEN TOLD: YOU DO NOT HAVE DOMINION
 

Livingblacksoil

Well-Known Member
They call it weed for a reason. Seen it growing through concrete. Your previous harvest was the plant, not you or your method. Did you really say ' I'm smart and will outgrow many of you' ? I predict that this energy will be redirected to crypto where your 'smarts' will better serve you. You will buy cannabis and not be growing in a year and a half.
You will see your 'grows' as what they are, a waste of your time and money and you will decide to let less 'smart' people grow weed while you...
 
Last edited:

UpInSmoke420$24

Well-Known Member
They call it weed for a reason. Seen it growing through concrete. Your previous harvest was the plant, not you or your method. Did you really say ' I'm smart and will outgrow many of you' ? I predict that this energy will be redirected to crypto where your 'smarts' will better serve you. You will buy cannabis and not be growing in a year and a half.
You will see your 'grows' as what they are, a waste of your time and money and you will decide to let less 'smart' people grow weed while you...
LMAO well your prediction is far off guy lmao its funny the comments people make when they know 0 % about who you are as a person. I'll post the cannabis cup when I win won. You know what it takes to succeed. HEART AND BRAINS. Me questioning thing as much as I do is going to be the reason why I succeed in doing what I am doing. See you guys are the ones who don't know how to read. I said a million times I agree that coco does not sustain life as good as living soil and it is not optimal. I said I am trying other ways too. They only things I stated was if it "DIDN'T WORK" I wouldn't be smoking this delicious herb right now. You people just hear and see what you want to start an argument. This really is friggin entertaining. I need to grab some popcorn and just read through people nonsense.
 

UpInSmoke420$24

Well-Known Member
Did your dreams and aspirations come crashing down? Who the hell are you to tell me my grows are a waste of time. Every grow is a learning curve and experience. Even if all my plants were to die...it still wouldn't be a waste of time because I would of learned something valuable for the future. Only way to succeed is to fail sometimes.
 

UpInSmoke420$24

Well-Known Member
And even with that said, I still haven't failed...even doing it the way "it doesn't work". I have harvested every plant I have ever started with decent end results. So I'll keep doing what I am doing and you can keep downing new growers and try to get them to stop growing.
 
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