Watering

Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
UpInSmoke420$24 said:
But usually I top dress every 2-3 weeks with 4 4 4 in veg. Depending how they eat. And my topdress is 4 tbs of worm castings every gallon of medium and 1tbs of 4 4 4 every gallon of medium. Then I switch to a 50 50 of 4 4 4 and dr earth flower girl going into flower. Then pure flower girl after 2 weeks into flower. I stop top dressing and tea's week 5 and water only til the end
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My last reply on this thread …

You can actually run the 4-4-4 alone up to say week 3 of flower ( plants would store enough nitrogen for stretch and structure) Then run Flower Girl til end . No 50/50 guess mixes - No fuss.

The 3-9-4 will carry the bloom from beginning thru mid flower - then you can “ adjust “ it higher if needed by plant. As some flowering plants can be heavy feeders at mid / later stages ( monitor ) . By then you would be maybe around 900-1000 ppm or so for the flowers. The minor drop in nitrogen in flower girl is there to continue cell health , photosynthesis and additional rooting.

GL
 
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UpInSmoke420$24

Well-Known Member
Budzbuddha said:
My last reply on this thread …

You can actually run the 4-4-4 alone up to say week 3 of flower ( plants would store enough nitrogen for stretch and structure) Then run Flower Girl til end . No 50/50 guess mixes - No fuss.

The 3-9-4 will carry the bloom from beginning thru mid flower - then you can “ adjust “ it higher if needed by plant. As some flowering plants can be heavy feeders at mid / later stages ( monitor ) . By then you would be maybe around 900-1000 ppm or so for the flowers. The minor drop in nitrogen in flower girl is there to continue cell health , photosynthesis and additional rooting.

GL
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Doesn't the Phosphorus demand go up higher after say about week 2 of flower? So if I used the 4 4 4 up until week 3 and then switched to flower girl, the flower girls phosphorus wont be available for uptake to say about week 5-6. So are you saying use it then or give earlier so its being used by that week?
 
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UpInSmoke420$24

Well-Known Member
and another big question I have is, say I was transplanting from a solo cup to a 2 gallon, or even 1 gallon. When you water the plant in after transplant...should you literally saturate the whole pot until almost runoff, or should you be just giving a little bit of water at a time. Like is it better for less water more frequently in that stage, or more water less frequent. And say you were transplanting from a solo to a 2 gallon, how much water approximately would you be giving the plant that watering? I know every strain and pheno is different, but I am just looking for an estimation
 
Herb & Suds

Herb & Suds

Well-Known Member
UpInSmoke420$24 said:
and another big question I have is, say I was transplanting from a solo cup to a 2 gallon, or even 1 gallon. When you water the plant in after transplant...should you literally saturate the whole pot until almost runoff, or should you be just giving a little bit of water at a time. Like is it better for less water more frequently in that stage, or more water less frequent. And say you were transplanting from a solo to a 2 gallon, how much water approximately would you be giving the plant that watering? I know every strain and pheno is different, but I am just looking for an estimation
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Flood the pot
Once you have an established plant you can’t overwater and if you do it slows for a couple days
That’s it
 
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UpInSmoke420$24

Well-Known Member
Herb & Suds said:
Flood the pot
Once you have an established plant you can’t overwater and if you do it slows for a couple days
That’s it
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thank you. What do you consider an established plant? Like how big, or how old? And also, when mixing up soil for your next run or to transplant in or anything, if your not saving your soil and your using new potting soil each run....should you be mixing all your amendments, worm castings, and perlite together ahead of time (say 30 days ahead) and let it sit in a bin or something to cook? Or can you just mix and go. And when your setting up new soil to transplant in/plant in, how much 4 4 4 should I be using per gallon in your opinion, and how much should I be top dressing every 2-3 weeks
 
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UpInSmoke420$24

Well-Known Member
I am also thinking about starting to save the soil and make up a big living soil bed or big ass pot to plant in. Now if I were to do that, is it ok to start your seeds right in the big ass flowering pots/beds, or should you be up potting until they are ready for flower, and then plant them into the flowering bed. And if you keep using the same living soil and doing a big living soil bed, do you need to remove the roots from previous harvests. I know the roots are actually good for the soil and will break down in time into nutrients for the plant and soil, but will it cause problems before that happens when the new plant is growing into the old roots? I heard of people chopping in big living soil beds and then planting new ones right beside the old one. But I always wondered about the old roots from the old plant in the soil
 
Herb & Suds

Herb & Suds

Well-Known Member
UpInSmoke420$24 said:
thank you. What do you consider an established plant? Like how big, or how old? And also, when mixing up soil for your next run or to transplant in or anything, if your not saving your soil and your using new potting soil each run....should you be mixing all your amendments, worm castings, and perlite together ahead of time (say 30 days ahead) and let it sit in a bin or something to cook? Or can you just mix and go. And when your setting up new soil to transplant in/plant in, how much 4 4 4 should I be using per gallon in your opinion, and how much should I be top dressing every 2-3 weeks
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You have to grow your own plants
:peace:
 
PadawanWarrior

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
kratos015 said:
Respectfully, to everyone involved in this post, I believe there is a tremendous miscommunication here.

OP has the same problem I have in life. I ask questions when I try to clarify information; unfortunately, asking questions can often be perceived as insubordination and insults. Silly as that sounds, that is the fact of the matter. I learn by asking questions. Others learn by doing, some by hearing. We all "learn" in different ways.

I don't believe the OP is "not listening to advice", but is seeking clarification.

I'm a little bummed that the OP is being met with such antagonistic responses; I've answered the most basic questions on here until I'm blue in the face and I have never been antagonistic, sarcastic, or cruel to anyone. This thread is just making me sad, because I truly expected more helpful responses from some of you guys. I am genuinely disappointed.




I feel people in here are reading your replies the wrong way, friend.

Look, he even says "I am lost". He is asking for clarification, not being a smart ass.

How could a beginner possibly be able to identify deficiencies like we all can? We've been growing for how long compared to OP? Of course he doesn't know! Stop busting his balls. Either answer the questions, or show some class and stay quiet.

If you have nothing productive to say, do not say it at all.

You guys see someone being antagonistic, I see someone just trying to ask questions to gain clarification.

Or, perhaps I'm the naive one here.




We do need to tell him, that is why he is here. He needs help, and pretty much no one here is giving him any help, just sarcasm and trolling. Did you know what deficiencies you had during your first grow? Of course OP doesn't know what deficiencies he has, how could he possibly know? Even if he did a Google search, he still won't know for sure, because he doesn't have the experience.

People learn in different ways. Respectfully, "your plants are telling you" is a vague statement to someone new with no experience. Try not to view OP as antagonistic, but curious and gaining clarification. I'm not trying to be a dick here either, just making an observation.

Especially you, Holla, I'd never dog on someone that had a Randy Rhoads icon.

I'm not trying to be antagonistic here either; simply trying to provide some of the people in this thread with a different perspective on things.

Why don't we just smoke some weed, and try to help this guy out? Maybe some day, he'll be helping the new people himself!

Regards.
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Hell ya Kratos. You're posts are some of my favorites on here if not my favorite.

I learn a lot from you. And a lot from hands on experience. But it's awesome the knowledge that you share to us rookies.
 
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UpInSmoke420$24

Well-Known Member
Well thanks to everyone that did help. Woke up this morning and all of them bounced right back. They are all growing very rapidly now and alot of the deficiencies are going away. Opened the tent this morning and they are all perked up and all the new growth is a nice healthy green. May I dare say YES even the coco ones are doing better. lol
 
kratos015

kratos015

Well-Known Member
PadawanWarrior said:
Hell ya Kratos. You're posts are some of my favorites on here if not my favorite.

I learn a lot from you. And a lot from hands on experience. But it's awesome the knowledge that you share to us rookies.
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For sure man, always happy to help anyone avoid mistakes I've made in the past. I believe in sharing as freely as things were shared with you, and to whom much is given much is expected.

Great you actually posted here though. Looks like OPs issue is well water related, and his pH in the soil is 7.5 like yours and mine was prior to discovering how hard our water is.

What's your method with Citric Acid to drop pH? I think that might help OP a lot. If he's using citric acid like you, perhaps he isn't using enough if his pH is still above 7?

I have no experience using Citric Acid, so I bet you could help OP here. I can't think of "Citric Acid" without thinking of Padawan!
 
kratos015

kratos015

Well-Known Member
UpInSmoke420$24 said:
Found one of the problems I believe. Checked the soils ph and some of them are up at 7.5
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Interesting, some of them, but not all of them? What is the pH of your coco plants?

The soil should come limed, for your coco pots, did you lime your coco as well?

I had this issue using my well water, my well water is loaded with Calcium Carbonate (Lime). When I moved out here, I used my same soil recipe, dolomite lime included. My pH was always 7.5+, took me over a year to realize my water was alkaline, and the water mixing with the dolomite lime ensured my pH was never below a 7.5 unfortunately.

@PadawanWarrior uses Citric Acid successfully, and has for years. Perhaps he can chime in on that? I have no experience with Citric Acid.


The way I solved this was by omitting Dolomite Lime from my future soil recipes, relying on my well water to buffer the pH instead. Problem solved instantly. However, this will only work in Peat Moss based soils, and not with coco due to the different pH ranges. Peat's acidic pH (3.5-4.0) is what allows this method to work for me. If I used coco, I'd likely still be having issues due to Coco's default pH ranging from 5.0-6.0 or so.

Do you recycle your coco/soil? Do you get any scaling on your faucets at home by chance? If so, do you notice any of it on your pots?

20211030_102546(1).jpg

20211030_102632(1).jpg


All that residue on the pots is from my water.


Even if the Calcium Carbonate/minerals in the water themselves are not enough to mess with pH, or cause nutrient toxicities, its the fact that they build up salts (scaling) in your soil and that is what causes issues. Many people experience this issue, and it typically doesn't manifest until the 2nd or 3rd grow in a ROLS/no-till environment. Why so delayed? Because that is how long it takes for the salts to build up and crystalize. Once this happens, you'll experience such a wide variety of issues you'll start pulling your hair out.

Hope that helps, and good to hear there are signs of recovery for your plants. All the best.



ChongMaBong said:
If you are new to growing why not stick to one growing medium and one strain dial in your skills and environment good luck
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Man, I wish my dumbass would have listened to this advice. I did not, and as a result it took me multiple years to get "dialed in" because of how many strains I was growing and all the different methods I tried.

Big downside that it took 4-5 years for me to dial my grow in, but the big upside was all the knowledge I gained by trying and experimenting with so many different things. All that said, the irony is that the soil I've been making these past couple of years only has 5-6 inputs in it.
 
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UpInSmoke420$24

Well-Known Member
Well I think the problem stemmed from when my dumbass sat on my BlueLab Soil Ph Pen and broke the damn glass. Luckily they were really good about it and sent a replacement...but it took almost a month to get it so I was using friggin drops with the color chart to ph. That was a pain in the ass:wall:
 
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UpInSmoke420$24

Well-Known Member
But yeah, some were 6.7-6.8 and some were 7.2-7.6 in the living soil and coco. Could it be too much dolomite? I know roots organic comes with some in it and I believe that the DTE 444 has some too. And I add about a half a tbs per gallon of dolomite lime myself. Could that overdo it and up it a little bit? I use the dolomite in the coco too also. Roughly a half a tbs per gallon to a tbs. Too lower the soil ph I just lower the ph of the water I am watering with a little bit right? I usually ph with citric acid to about 6.5, but like I said, when the ph meter broke I was probably up near 7 more
 
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UpInSmoke420$24

Well-Known Member
But as of now, they are growing really fast now and getting big. All the leaves are praying on all the plants now, every single one. But I can tell some green is slowly fading on the ones that are near 7.5, so I can see problems starting to possibly come from it. But other than that, they are growing and look relatively happy. Alot happier than they did when I started this Post
 
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