Hey team
We have been having problems with watering...
We are running a 20 bucket system, with the little girls going into rock wool cubes then into 17 ltr buckets.
We are using hydrotron clay balls.
Have a 13ml top feed tube running around the reservoir bucket feeding two 13ml feeder hoses that run on to the girls then in to the top bucket that is sitting in the reservoir bucket.
Run the water system from to tanks that get pumps water through the system over the girls then back in to the tanks.
We are currently growing white rhino.
Have you heard of girls becoming susceptible to over watering?
We were watering every two hours last crop and over watered them and only realised when we were getting algae on the to and root rot.
Have since pulled the girls out and put them in a smaller tub and cut the algae off the top they seem to be coming back all right..
Really don't want this to happen again!!!!!
What are you watering cycles like?
Do you water on smaller cycles when the girls are smaller?
Please let me know as we about to put some more down and would love to have your answer first!!!!!!!!
Earlier on you can definitely over water an immature root system. If your plant had healthy roots, well into the hydroton, but they are rotting on just two waterings a day then I'd be worried about the drain tubes. If you didn't wash the hydroton ahead of time little bits can wash down into the drain tubes and clog things up/slow them down to the point that your roots just sit in water for hours.
Check your lines and I guess water less until you get your root systems more developed. Your temperatures are going to come into play here also, but you could be watering not on a non-24 hour schedule. Like once every 18 hours. Or maybe just 1/2 the volume of water on the second watering of the day.
A lot of variables to cover. You're going to just have to experiment a little and see what works best for your plants at their particular stage of life. But check those lines too.
Anyone have some advice on this for me please?
You have enough light. I'd actually go with 3x 25w 6500K bulbs and a single 46w 2700K bulb.
Hey, I've got two smalluns about 5 inches tops which have got a bit leggy as they are only just working on the 4th and 5th set of real leaves and they won't stand without supports. I've read that I can get a fan for that but what I need to know is how close to have the light? all posts I've seen refer to when the plants much smaller,It's a 1000 watt bulb, reflector with chains etc, pretty hot though... Cheers!
You're pushing WAY too much energy at them right now. Go to the hardware store and get yourself a 20ish (actual) watt twisty CFL bulb in the Day Light spectrum for every plant you have. And get a clamp light reflector for each bulb. Each setup will cost you $7-$8. Keep these about 1" to 2" from the plants and you'll see them really respond. The air circulation isn't a "can-do" thing. It is a must-do. Plants don't have lungs, they can't "breathe" in air like we do. They need a breeze to pass air across the leaves to help them respire.
hey, is it possible to make my clone without cloning gel or powder and can i just put it in my normal soil(peatmoss , perlite 50:50 , and vermiculite) please help..
and its white widow strain
It is possible, but your results won't be fantastic. You might get 1 out of 10 this way, or less. You might get better results keeping them in a "vase" situation for a few days after cutting. So take your clones, put them in a jug of water (and if you have an air pump and air stone drop those in there) and just let them hang out for a couple days. They should stay standing tall, anything that droops wouldn't have rooted anyway. This might allow the cuttings time to re-adjust and I think it could double the number of clones that root without any rooting compounds.
what is the best way to start seeds can i put them in a starter tray with plastic top and just keep them moist or do i have to germanate them?
I think the best way to germinate seeds is to place them in saturated coco fiber. Botanicare CocoGro is my coco of choice for starting seeds. If you check my personal page on here you'll see accounts of people who had a lot of trouble starting seeds before trying them in coco. Now every seed they plant starts.
Paper towel germination is not a superior method. There are many variables, and it requires all kinds of care. Putting your seeds in a little coco (I use party cups cut in half) about 2cm down in there and keeping the coco moist until you see a seedling is the method that has worked best for me. I also find my seeds hatch about a day or two earlier if I use a light above the coco. I don't know if it is the warmth, or the light that filters down, but I definitely see my plants above ground sooner with a light on after the first 48 hours.
You should see 50% of your seedlings (at least) in the first 100 hours and the rest should arrive within 200 hours from planting them. They will have a media to root to and will begin growing very fast. The coco provides an inert media for the seedlings which will allow you to know when they are hungry. You don't want to use very much coco because of this. After about 8 to 10 days you will want to transplant to soil, or into a CocoTek or fabric planter for use in hydroponic systems, and the plant will then require food. In soil, the roots will stretch out and eat from the soil. In hydroponics (or if you just stick with coco the whole way though like I do) then you will begin using a light strength nutrient solution.
Here is a look at them ... idk i havent see much Growth.. but my EC level is goin Down so that ARE eating... i think i should add some Cal-mag and i have some maxi grow also.. i just dont wanna mess up again
View attachment 1521529View attachment 1521530
The new growth looks fine. The old damage reminds me of a cal-mag pH issue I had a few grows ago on a Lemon Skunk plant. All I did was stay the course and the plant recovered. Just check your pH, make sure it looks cool, and be careful if you are foliar feeding them (as that can cause those kind of spots). I don't think spidermites are a concern.
Don't do anything drastic. Your plants look healthy to me and you might be reacting to an issue that has come and gone. Adding something the plant needed a week ago, but doesn't need anymore, could have a snowballing effect and you'll constantly be trying to catch up with the current problem. Follow the feeding plan and if the plant continues to worsen, or if the spots spread, then you'll need to address your pH meter (recalibrate) and begin to up your cal-mag levels slowly to find the right ratio for your phenotype at a given stage of growth.
I have a question.
I am setting up a grow room in a 4x4 closet (with no door) in an old farm house. Power won't be a problem, as I am running two dedicated lines from the breaker box to the room. But I am concerned about sealing the room (horse hair plaster walls) I will shop vac every nook and crack in the walls and floor, scrub the walls and floor with Murphys oil soap, but how should I go about sealing off the floor, walls, and ceiling? My concern is for mold finding it's way in through the ceiling, walls, or floor. Can I just put Mylar film in ,and seal the seams with duct tape? Perhaps install thin foam (sheet) insulation, and seal the edges of that? Will that cause too much heat retention? ( I will be using a 6" vented reflector, and exhaust system) What have other growers done to address this? I will be thankful, for any opinions, references, ect. Thanks in advance. -StuFish-
This is more of a general contracting question. I think you should fill all your gaps with silicon (the kind you'd use for plumbing), then seal it with that moisture barrier tape... I forget the name but you can ask the dudes at home depot. A final step might be to paint the walls and floor with a Latex based paint to create a single solid impenetrable barrier between the outside and inside world. Cover all that in a flat white paint and you don't even really need the mylar. There will need to be some air exchange and I recommend implementing a simple hepa filter over your intake to keep the bad stuff from getting inside.
The idea here is to use products designed to handle moisture, like silicon and latex, so that the mold won't be able to take hold. Before taping you may also want to spray the areas you caulked with a "commercial" fungicide used in situations where recurrent flooding is an issue (made for basements and shit). I'm sorry I can't be more specific with brand names but I think you'll get the idea here.
hey guys, give me your best shot at this to help me figure out what is going on. its jack herer feminized seed then cloned.
its under a 1000watter about 14 or so inches from the tops. I noticed i yellowing of the flower. i describe it as being a tight dande lion look alike. think its heat stress or hermie. I dont see any nuts on this bitch but the yellowing is alarming.
I dunno. Nuts are definitely my concern here, with the yellow color and odd looking flowers... But really, I don't have a clue. Could be an iron deficiency... maybe... but your plant should be able to mobilize iron stores to compensate.
Probably a herm... maybe just a freak of nature.
Is it too big even if Im scrogging/veg. for couple months? gonna be a full season already have it and I live in the boonies and same with soil. There's gotta be ways to deal with them.
You are going to grow, indoors, for a couple months... during the spring, summer, and fall...
You know... there's this big bright disc in the sky we can use for growing with.
And yes, I still think 10 gallons is too much indoors. I mean, you can grow however you choose to... But I'd keep my indoor stuff on a shorter schedule and do all my double-digit gallon planters with months of scrogging outside where they belong.
I gave you another option too dude. You can bake your dirt. It'll kill anything in there you don't want. Stinks like... well... cooking mud... but you live out in the middle of nowhere so it's not like you have a neighborhood of cookie cutter house owners to upset.
Hey, I'm new to this forum but have been growing for about a year now. I need help with my temperature. I have 2 1000w/hps for flower and a T-5 46 for vegg. The room is about 8ft W x 6ft L x 8ft H. I have a 6" exhaust and intake, a 20" fan blowing directly on them and a 9000 btu portable a/c. With an outside temp of 60 F, the room temp is about 82 . The only way I can get it down to about 72 is to turn the lights off, open the door and put another fan at the door blowing air in. This is in the middle of the day, otherwise temp goes up to over 90. At night with everything on it stays at about 79-80. How can I keep the temp down and constant without having to leave the door open?
Only one way. Move more air. Your air conditioner and intake temperatures are fine. I'd even say that your AC might not be able to get that area much cooler. I think that if you increased the flow of air then your problems would be solved. An intake fan will help quite a bit, but ultimately, I think you're going to need a bigger exhaust fan.
If you really, really, really want this problem solved here is what you do. Get yourself an 8" exhaust system. Inline fan, insulated ducting, 6" to 8" connectors, appropriate cfm carbon filter, duct muffler, and probably a speed controller. Then use the current 6" exhaust system as an intake assist system. You'll probably even get to run your intake (outside the tent) temperatures lower, closer to 68 to 70 degrees or so, while still maintaining a comfortable 72 to 78 degrees in the tent.
