CXB3590 DIY Build and Grow

Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
DarthBlazeAnthony said:
just ordered the m3 8mm screws from hong kong. 20 ct for a buck 90. A pack of 2 was like 4 bucks in USA. Fuck that noise. Thanks for the pro tip. I have 3 long heat sinks left so you may of saved me some time. This drilling is a bit tedious with a hand drill. I wish i had a drill machine.
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Dude you need a Lot More than 20. Cancel that and order 100 off amazon. For $5
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
DarthBlazeAnthony said:
just ordered the m3 8mm screws from hong kong. 20 ct for a buck 90. A pack of 2 was like 4 bucks in USA. Fuck that noise. Thanks for the pro tip. I have 3 long heat sinks left so you may of saved me some time. This drilling is a bit tedious with a hand drill. I wish i had a drill machine.
Click to expand...
I did all mine with a hand drill. It's simple. Just go to harbor freight and get their set of 1/64 increments titanium bits. It's like $7. That 7/64 in there drilled every single hole and could drill 10,000 more without breaking. It eats through aluminum like butter
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
PerroVerde said:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00W97RY2O/ref=pd_aw_sim_60_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=51WSfpGOyjL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100,100_&refRID=0AHA4JWHY5M96V706SYA
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DO NOT BUY THESE. They are NOT self tapping. Here's a link.
It is eBay but it didn't nearly take as long as the shipping said it would.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/200Pcs-M3x8mm-Black-Harder-Phillips-Round-Head-Self-Tapping-Electronic-Screw-/161169202928?txnId=1360181704006

These are the EXACT ones from the exact seller I ordered from that I PERSONALLY used in my build.
 
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DarthBlazeAnthony

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
DO NOT BUY THESE. They are NOT self tapping. Here's a link.
It is eBay but it didn't nearly take as long as the shipping said it would.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/200Pcs-M3x8mm-Black-Harder-Phillips-Round-Head-Self-Tapping-Electronic-Screw-/161169202928?txnId=1360181704006

These are the EXACT ones from the exact seller I ordered from that I PERSONALLY used in my build.
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why do you say don't use them but then say you used them in your build? I ordered these and picked up 20 from Home Depot just now. I also picked up these plugs which I need for each driver.

M3 x 8mm - Qty 25 - Phillips Pan Head Machine Screws 2 orders.
sc.jpg
for the drivers
Project Source 15-Amp 125-Volt Orange 3-Wire Grounding Plug

pl.jpg
 
A

alaskanboy

Well-Known Member
zep_lover said:
the 4 cob bar in my veg is running between 31 and 36 degrees c on the heat sinks.i have 4 10 inch heat sink usa profiles cut at 5 inch length with 1/4 inch aluminium bars making the light bar up.the next set of lights i build will be 1 44 inch 5.88 profile with 4 cobs on each heat sink.i will use the meanwells next time also just because wiring 1 driver per cob makes a clean set up hard to do.i do have each of my drivers grounded and the power cord also grounded.
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Hello Zep, it sounds like you are going back to a regular HS. So, will the new one be passive cooled? I like the design of your passive build so just wondered why you'd switch.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
DarthBlazeAnthony said:
why do you say don't use them but then say you used them in your build? I ordered these and picked up 20 from Home Depot just now. I also picked up these plugs which I need for each driver.

M3 x 8mm - Qty 25 - Phillips Pan Head Machine Screws 2 orders.
View attachment 3608568
for the drivers
Project Source 15-Amp 125-Volt Orange 3-Wire Grounding Plug

View attachment 3608570
Click to expand...
Dude look at the difference in THREAD sharpness. Those are so blunt and basically half circles. The ones I used are like a blade that presses a thread into the aluminum. It's all about the threads. That's what classifis them as self tapping. Your styles are very small and weak. Easy to spin out and lose all hold from the hole.
 
D

DarthBlazeAnthony

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
Dude look at the difference in THREAD sharpness. Those are so blunt and basically half circles. The ones I used are like a blade that presses a thread into the aluminum. It's all about the threads. That's what classifis them as self tapping. Your styles are very small and weak. Easy to spin out and lose all hold from the hole.
Click to expand...
back to the hardware store for me
 
zep_lover

zep_lover

Well-Known Member
alaskanboy said:
Hello Zep, it sounds like you are going back to a regular HS. So, will the new one be passive cooled? I like the design of your passive build so just wondered why you'd switch.
Click to expand...
when i do build my next lights ,i will probably go with one long heat sink.it was alot of extra work and expense building them as i did.the 5.88 profile at 44 inches is more then enough for passive cooling of 4 cxb 3590 run at 50 watts each.i only built my lights now because i changed how i am going to use them.i intended to surround a big plant with 10 cobs hanging all around it.that was going to take up too much floor space.what ever i build will be passively cooled!thanks for the compliment!
 
Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
D

DarthBlazeAnthony

Well-Known Member
zep_lover said:
when i do build my next lights ,i will probably go with one long heat sink.it was alot of extra work and expense building them as i did.the 5.88 profile at 44 inches is more then enough for passive cooling of 4 cxb 3590 run at 50 watts each.i only built my lights now because i changed how i am going to use them.i intended to surround a big plant with 10 cobs hanging all around it.that was going to take up too much floor space.what ever i build will be passively cooled!thanks for the compliment!
Click to expand...
Can I passively cool 3 cxb3590's on a 36 inch 5.886 profile? I think the cobs run at 50w each.
 
Jp.the.pope

Jp.the.pope

Well-Known Member
grouch said:
I used #4 screws on mine. It doesn't have to be an m3. It just needs to fit through the holder.
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I also used #4 self tapping. 4-40 drill and tap. From what I can tell from other users the M3 might be a little easier to use but harder to find in the US.

The #4 works perfect.
 
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grouch

Well-Known Member
A #4 screw might still fit in those same holes. Hop on down to the store and grab a couple and try one out. If it's to loose than it won't work. If it's to tight be careful to not snap the screw and drill the holes a bit larger.

There is a thread in the led section with info on tapping the heatsinks. Always be careful who you trust on the internet because its hard to tell who actually knows and who is constantly getting corrected
 
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