LED bulbs for plant growth, which is best?

wietefras

wietefras

Well-Known Member
Enigma said:
Are you really that dense?.
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It seems you are yes. Since you didn't postulate a proper theorem that we can tear down, I asked what your "bro-science" claim about "entry" level COBs was supposed to mean. I asked if it was about spectrum and you claimed that indeed there was a vast difference there. Which is obviously nonsense.

So now apparently you are trying again with some vague efficiency range. How on earth is that even relevant? Stop hiding behind bro-science and come up with an example that actually makes sense. Pick an efficiency that people actually would likely use and see how much it costs to build that with both brands. Indeed you will see that Citizen COBs can do the same efficiency at a lower price. And CXM COBs at even less. Or pick a COB at a similar price like an 1825 and it will do better than the Vero at the same wattage.

Anyway, as all the others in this thread have already told you, you are really a waste of time and I will also put you on ignore.
 
Cletus clem

Cletus clem

Well-Known Member
Enigma said:
BXRC-30E10K0-D-7x-SE

80 CRI

186-130 efficacy @ 1050-4200 mA, respectively.


BXRC-30E10K0-C-7x-SE

80 CRI

184-128 efficacy @ 855-3420 mA, respectively.



You must have misread something.
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Those are within 2 lm/w, that is negligible. So close this is how they list them on their website. IMG_1274.PNG
 
Enigma

Enigma

Well-Known Member
nc208 said:
*Sigh* @Enigma
Here is a quote from Rapid for 4 vero 29 c's, wires, thermal pads, wago connectors, power cord, dimmer, and wire and screws. If you get them to build you as a kit they discount it a bit and will sell it for 304.5 - 10% bringing it to 275$ shipped anywhere in the US.

View attachment 4008279

Here is my Invoice to prove the kit comes as a discount at 305, Notice shipping had an extra 60$ because I live in Canada. We are discussing shipped in the US so I am leaving the additional international shipping charge out of the scenario.
View attachment 4008281

Lastly here is a build list from Tasty with the exact same components except for the driver. Tasty doesn't carry a 2100ma Driver where Rapid does, so for more money you also get an inferior driver.
View attachment 4008280

So for an almost identical kit
Rapid is 275
Tasty is 360

Rhaz has some great products and awesome kits that come with a fixture, you pay more for a service like this, You do him and his business a disservice by spreading untrue stuff around.

You call me a drug addict? Yet you cant even see logic and truth. I'm tired of your lies so put up or shut up. Here is direct prices from their sites.

You spent a month researching yet you are an idiot talking shit you know nothing about. I wouldn't brag about that. We called you on your BS about citizen chips and now you change your tune to say well Bridgelux is better than citizen instead of citizen is terrible spectrum and weak.

Lastly look how many different people all disagree with you, either 5 or 6 of us are all crazy or your so crazy you don't even know how bad it is. Don't worry the world always needs Ditch diggers, and burger flippers so you will be alright.

Smoke some more weed so you can relax and chill out.
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You'll need to actively cool those COBs using the driver you propose, which will drive up costs and replace those smaller heat sinks.

Again, they are not comparable.

You need to keep up with this thread.

Passively cooling will not work with your build.

Citizen COBs have an inferior spectrum and output and efficacy. It is on the manufacturer's data sheets.

Build a Vero29C SE with passive cooling, up to 1400 mA.

Then build a Citizen to match the Vero.

Also, I don't want to use 12 COBs where 6 will do the job.
 
mauricem00

mauricem00

Well-Known Member
found this on E bay 100watts 120-130 LPW and a fuller spectrum then white cobs http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-PPFD-380nm-840nm-100W-DIY-Led-Grow-Chip-High-Quality-Full-spectrum-for-420/332212812888?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 may be a good choice for those who think spectrum matters bridgelux seems to be only a year or so behind cree and other high end companies with more energy at the absorption peaks that LEDs target this may work better than white COBs inspire of the slightly lower efficiency may work well for upgrading old mars hydro's. seems funny to hear a member of the LED crowd criticizing "bro-science" since this is the foundation of the LED movement
 
Cletus clem

Cletus clem

Well-Known Member
mauricem00 said:
found this on E bay 100watts 120-130 LPW and a fuller spectrum then white cobs http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-PPFD-380nm-840nm-100W-DIY-Led-Grow-Chip-High-Quality-Full-spectrum-for-420/332212812888?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 may be a good choice for those who think spectrum matters bridgelux seems to be only a year or so behind cree and other high end companies with more energy at the absorption peaks that LEDs target this may work better than white COBs inspire of the slightly lower efficiency may work well for upgrading old mars hydro's. seems funny to hear a member of the LED crowd criticizing "bro-science" since this is the foundation of the LED movement
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Not a "fuller spectrum". Way too much above 700nm. Will only translate to heat, not par light hence the 120-130 lm/w.
 
nc208

nc208

Well-Known Member
Enigma said:
You'll need to actively cool those COBs using the driver you propose, which will drive up costs and replace those smaller heat sinks.

Again, they are not comparable.

You need to keep up with this thread.

Passively cooling will not work with your build.

Citizen COBs have an inferior spectrum and output and efficacy. It is on the manufacturer's data sheets.

Build a Vero29C SE with passive cooling, up to 1400 mA.

Then build a Citizen to match the Vero.

Also, I don't want to use 12 COBs where 6 will do the job.
Click to expand...
Again you show your stupidity, maybe you should learn about wiring in series and parallel. Using the driver i mentioned can run 4 vero 29c's at 1050ma each for around 72w which is passively cooled. So yes they are comparable. See because you didnt know running a 2100ma driver in parallel and series will let you split the current you look like an idiot with your comment. Maybe you should go back to research.
 
Rolla J

Rolla J

Well-Known Member
That makes sense on the lumens per watt. I spent like 60 bucks on the whole setup. Not a bad lil rig tho. Have artic f9 fans to cool when i increase the voltage doesnt run that hot. But did good for veg in a 2x2. Something u dont see everyday thats out of the ordinary. I have another diy rig for flower that use 36 10w led chips.
 
nc208

nc208

Well-Known Member
Rolla J said:
That makes sense on the lumens per watt. I spent like 60 bucks on the whole setup. Not a bad lil rig tho. Have artic f9 fans to cool when i increase the voltage doesnt run that hot. But did good for veg in a 2x2. Something u dont see everyday thats out of the ordinary. I have another diy rig for flower that use 36 10w led chips.
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What spectrum are the 10w chips?
 
Enigma

Enigma

Well-Known Member
nc208 said:
This is how I imagine you live your life

View attachment 4008301
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Have you designed and drawn any buildings or structures that are used by the military, general public, industrial commerce or food processing?

No?

I have.

People use them everyday.

Everything from church steeples to sterile ballast water reclaim without chemicals.

Yes, I'm also environmentally friendly in my work.

:leaf:
 
Enigma

Enigma

Well-Known Member
Cletus clem said:
That dosnt matter! The outcome is the same!!! Do you understand efficacy?
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Yes.

However, you do not.

155 lm/W each:

"D" variant - 1170mA @ 35V produces 6,347.25 lm @ 40.95W.

"C" variant - 1710mA @ 69.4V produces 18,394.47 lm @ 118.674W.

If you would have payed attention to the amperage you would have understood and agreed.

At the exact same efficacy, the "C" variant produces almost three times the amount of light.

Maths, it isn't for everyone.

:leaf:
 
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