DIY with Quantum Boards

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
I was also trying to explain the color or deficiency as some call it. The v1 and v2s almost always came out pale green, not yellow. The rspecs are yellow from the start but not pale or greenish yellow. Its a dark yellow. A week after being under the rspec it turned this color. It took me a lot of power to not change anything because i thought it needed N or had too much water, ph problems. Its not that type of yellowing, its literally exactly like watching a japanese maple tree go from green-yellow-red. This photos from a couple weeks ago. Its about a week too early for the leaves to turn and fall off, but they also yellowed much earlier in the grow. After that is the same clone line grown under v2s, 0 purpling. Im not knocking the rspec but its different than the v2, i mean i mount these to the top at 60inches, then i put the plants in when the canopy is at around 30 inches. Im very surprised to get bleaching, i also rotate the plants a quarter turn every day. Where i could see the rspec really filling a niche is 12/12 from seed and autos but with my photoperiod plants it seems to be throwing them a curveball of sorts. Perfect for a fast little indica, mines a sativa dominat hybrid and its just not going to mature fast enough under these to get to its full potential like it would under the v2. I think once it starts making the anthocyanins its just not going to be able to do photosynthesis as well. The rspecs faster, better looking and more potent looking bud but at the same time its viney, harder to trim, slower to fully mature some plants. The 3000k v2 is just a reliable general purpose producer for me, never had any issues other than some occasional fluffy bud.
I heard they need more magnesium under the higher powered LED's like the Rspec's. I am just trying them now, and am at day 14 of flower. They are strong lights, and I've had to raise some of them because I noticed some bleaching. My plan is to run 3 Rspec's around my 2 cmh eventually, but think I should experiment with led only this round to really tell the difference. So I'm just running 2 hlg 260s Rspec, a 135 Rspec, and 2 100's in 3000k this time. Next time I'll run the cmh with them.
 

Jqwerty1

Well-Known Member
I heard they need more magnesium under the higher powered LED's like the Rspec's. I am just trying them now, and am at day 14 of flower. They are strong lights, and I've had to raise some of them because I noticed some bleaching. My plan is to run 3 Rspec's around my 2 cmh eventually, but think I should experiment with led only this round to really tell the difference. So I'm just running 2 hlg 260s Rspec, a 135 Rspec, and 2 100's in 3000k this time. Next time I'll run the cmh with them.
Yeah well I used an entire small bottle of calmag on about 5 plants in less than 6 months. Im pretty confident my soils saturated with magnesium now. Again the only variable to the purpling is the 660s and the 3500vs3000k.
 

TWest65

Well-Known Member
Power consumed by adding a 10' section of wires for remote driver at 2100 ma.
18 ga stranded = .658 watts
18 ga solid = .574 watts
16 ga stranded = .406 watts
16 ga solid. = .362 watts

At 2100 ma, a qb288 is pulling 102.82 watts at the board.
Adding that 10' section doesn't take away power from the LEDs, it just makes the driver work a tiny fraction harder.
So using a 16 ga solid section would make the driver work .352% harder. In short, I wouldn't worry about solid vs stranded, or whether to use 16 or 18 AWG wire.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
I didn't build them myself, but here's my HLG test at 14 days since flip. The Green Crack on the right is a little sad. I don't think she can handle the same amount of nutes as the Sunset Sherbert's can, and so I've been burning her up a bit. I also should open her up a little more, but am lazy and haven't done it yet.
IMG_3666.JPG
IMG_3667.JPG
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Purple stems = too much light intensity, no?
Cool temps or lack of phosphorus causes it from what I've read, or the strain itself. The cool temps make the phosphorus unavailable to the plants and causes the purple colors due to deficiency I guess. I ran some different strains with cooler temps and had a lot of purple colors on most of them. I noticed the closer they were to the colder air coming in, the more purple they were.
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Increased purple from the 660 in the rspec just as i predicted. This is clone that ive been growing for a while and never got purpling like this. Temps are also very high and i have been feeding heavy calmag. The next question we have to ask ourselves is if this is detrimental to photosynthesis. I bought this light day 1, predicting it would do this for some bag appeal. But now my plants are viney and these buds just aren't bulky as the v2's and im getting burns/bleaching at 6inches, where as my v2s didnt burn until within 2 inches. Whats the next add on to the V4 that's going to fix viney problems. I have been unsuccessfully using silica. I will need to add some serious fans into my next grow room.

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Am I reading this right? Your rspec 135w board is 6" from tops of plants running full power?
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Cool temps or lack of phosphorus causes it from what I've read, or the strain itself. The cool temps make the phosphorus unavailable to the plants and causes the purple colors due to deficiency I guess. I ran some different strains with cooler temps and had a lot of purple colors on most of them. I noticed the closer they were to the colder air coming in, the more purple they were.
Purple stems = too much light intensity, no?
All of the above.
 

Jqwerty1

Well-Known Member
Am I reading this right? Your rspec 135w board is 6" from tops of plants running full power?
Yeah i try to keep them about 6inches from the very top of the tallest cola. I grow in 60 inch tents, i mount the lights to the top and let the plants grow up to them. I have fans mounted to my boards and decent ventilation, run co2. I also keep the humidity quite low with a combination of AC and using tons of CaCl. I know what im doing ive been doing this for a while on almost every system, hydro soil, hid flour and tons of leds. The 660s are signaling to the plant that fall is coming, sunlight is at its peak and the plant should produce anthocyanin, to either protect it from intense light or to gather more light. Its Rayleigh Scattering. Now as i have read these red leds are like twice as efficient as blue ones and significantly more efficient than the lm301B which is why they put it on there. More lights always better. However the spectrum has changed. Im not sure i would recommend these for a full cycle or even a full flowering cycle. HLG needs to hunt down efficient/cheap UV and blue leds to add on. I predicted this, thats why i created a preflower tent with an old V1. In this tent i put my plants in 14 hr light cycle in ordrr to develop some decent bud sites that i cant get under 24hr light. Id bet the V2s will veg a sativa for 14weeks if they wanted to, doubt the rspec could do that because its going to start signaling hormones too early.
 

Jqwerty1

Well-Known Member
Purpling stems are going to depend on how old they are, how much light they recieve. Canopys are actually amazing at filtering light, its what theyre designed to do. Purpling stems come about for many reasons but its essentially a sunburn in this case that were talking about. Purple/anthocyanin that we are talking about right not not as a deficiency or a genetic trait is a sign of a sunburn.
 

pop22

Well-Known Member
And where did you find this information? Or is this just your own theory?

Purpling stems are going to depend on how old they are, how much light they recieve. Canopys are actually amazing at filtering light, its what theyre designed to do. Purpling stems come about for many reasons but its essentially a sunburn in this case that were talking about. Purple/anthocyanin that we are talking about right not not as a deficiency or a genetic trait is a sign of a sunburn.
 

Jqwerty1

Well-Known Member
And where did you find this information? Or is this just your own theory?
You dont have to have a published scientific paper to make it true. Theres not much research on cannabis at all and were talking about a uncommon phenomenon specific to certain environments. When plants are stretching they arent going to purple. When they slow down they do. Now when i veg a plant, the stems are green, as i trim and train the plant then old stems turn purple. Under the V2 in flower i get very low purpling anywhere. Theres a lot of diff between leaf, stem and bud but they all seem to come in different ways. I even had one plant that was totally green with purple hairs. What ive noticed with my v2s is that when they get almost to the point of burning, they dont, they just create new growth to cover it. In my last grow i had one burn and then it turned into a basball sized nug with shoots coming out all over. Once I started the rspec though it seemed to be the end of growth. It just stretched, purpled, leaves yellow and now it aint doing a whole lot. Once you lose your fan leaves there aint much reason to stick around with it.
 

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
Its a 120 54a, 135w kit. I vegged it under a 100w V1. I know all my variables. Its the 660. Theres some anecdotal research on this as well, search anthocyanin and leds in google. Some of the sources also show blue light increasing anthocyanin. The rspec has higher blue too because they are 3500k. By this logic though every blurple should be making the dopest looking bud anyones ever seen. Ive only ever used supplemental blurples with a hid and i had purpling there as well, on one side of a plant. The difference is the intensity. Everyone says its depends on temperature and nutriets, back a couple hundred pages i had said it does not. They said it would have to be 1 in the genetics 2 cold environment and 3 low magnesium. Anthocyanin is functioning as a sunscreen. The rspec is too strong, the plants method of protecting itself by growing is not working because photosynthesis is maximized. This may mean that anthocyanins stunt growth and we not be able to achieve purpling and yield at the same time. Rspec 135w in a 2x2 is overkill, where as a the V2 is perfect. Rspec on a 100W driver is the best option but i have a feeling it wont perform well as a 120 v2. After all the research ive done, my ideal set up would be to use a V2 or whatever cheap high efficiency white diodes, then use a supplemental light at certain stages with UV, deep far red and blues.
Even I could understand that!!! I'm going back to white light v2s!!!
 

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
I think its about day 50. I would normally harvest about day 55, but these look like they might be a bit slower. Without pulling out my microscope, the trichs look done but most of the hairs are white. They should be atleast 50% now. I don't have any explanation for this, i cant think of any reason it would related to the 660 but its the only variable in my grow room.
yeah,only the plants that are under the RSPEC lights are doing that/looking like that...
 

Jqwerty1

Well-Known Member
"illustrated that red light activates the phytochrome photoreceptor which enforces the delocalization of the nucleus and modulates gene expression"

https://biomedres.us/fulltexts/BJSTR.MS.ID.002467.php

What im saying is that rspec is a finishing light, an amazing one but along with that i would like to see some UV. Give us whatever color temp and diode lm301H/B has the highest efficiency, 5000K/6500k and make it a general purpose light with balanced red and blue peaks. I think the V2 is going to outperform rspecs on weight but id bet that the rspecs have higher oil concentrations. Keep in mind just because its closer to the suns ratios doesnt make it better for growing. The v2 may be growing slightly unnatural plants because its slightly lacking these deep and far red,Ir,uv spectrums that activate hormones and stuff. According to research the rspec should have higher anthocyanin, flavours, terpenes, oil. The data says red light increased overall weight but it was a supplemental light so ofcourse it did.
 

Jqwerty1

Well-Known Member
"Morphological responses of American cranberry (Vacciniummacrocarpon Ait, Ericaceae) to different light conditions (red,far-red, white light and sunlight) were examined. Root growth and development,stem elongation, leaf enlargement, de-etiolation of stem and leaf, flower budformation, and flowering of American cranberry were measured under each lightcondition and in the dark. It was found that red light promotes development ofroots and leaves, flowering, and de-etiolation of stem and leaf of Americancranberry. Stem elongation and etiolation of stem and leaf were shown infar-redlight and dark. Anthocyanin biosynthesis as phytochemical response in cranberryplants was most sensitive to red light."

"Anthocyanins act as a sunscreen, protecting the chloroplasts from high light intensities."

Someone translate this next part for im too high. Does this mean that purpling is better or worse for green plants. It sure sounds like it.

"effects of anthocyanins on photosynthesis and photoinhibition in green and red leaves of Oxalis triangularis. Gas analysis indicated that green plants had the highest apparent quantum yield for CO2 assimilation "

" This shading effect causes a lower photosynthetic CO2 assimilation in red plants compared to green plants, but a higher quantum efficiency of photosystem II (PSII). Anthocyanins contribute to photoprotection, compensating for lower xanthophyll content in red plants, and red plants are less photoinhibited than green plants, as illustrated by the Fv/Fm ratio."

So we got more light but we got stretchy plants that gradually become inefficient at photosynthesis as the longer theyre exposed to high 660, they develop more purple than green???
 

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