True HP Aero For 2011

DIYer said:
Hey it looks like it'll work. I used two ugly heavy pain in the ass 1'Wx4'Lx3'H fifty gallon aquarium tanks as res's once, roots didn't give a shit! With that black skirt, kind of looks like the roll of black/white poly i have. I've been envisioning a huge res made of nothing but b/w poly dropped into a PVC frame. Both items are cheap as shit, especially so for the sq footage you end up with. I've gotten all origami like with PVC and poly separately, but never combined the two, you can really fold it nicely to make a sharp looking cube, probably any shape you'd want, same goes for building a frame with PVC, no limitations on size or shape. Something to ponder when you're drawing up plans for the next res.
EDIT:
Actually,.. maybe take it a step further, and run water through the PVC frame to misters using some of these,.PN RTT418 - 1/2"S X 1/2"S X 1/8" FPT PVC MISTING NOZZLE TEE's. Endless configuration possibilities.
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The chamber idea is good, but you cannot get any good results using PVC with high pressure aero. The pipe stretches too much and causes huge mist run on. You should have remembered that from Cavadge's thread on Garden's cure.
 
FYI: they make higher pressured PVC pipe, if it was even going to be an issue, not that it would be if you build the frame right with the misters far enough away to not sputter on your roots, not to mention if we were all as willing to toss money away as you we'd put a solenoid for every nozzle and flex in the PVC behind that wouldn't effect shit. 'I shoulda remembered that', lol.. Get the stick out your ass, it ain't my fault you wasted hundreds more then you needed to go to AA, maybe if you dropped that grand on a ring you'd still have a girl, BOOM!

EDIT:
SCH 80 Pipe Rated At 850 PSI. Problem solved for those of us smart enough not to waste the coin to put a solenoid at every noz.
 
I'm done with PVC for fluid trans. Maybe for framing. There are no light leaks, but this thing is anything but air tight. I am looking forward to seeing how this will change things. With the fan going air will be completely exchanged from the chamber probably several times per day. I've got the 4 nozzles running 1/4. Gonna keep the roots white, and keep droplets forming on the tips until she get settled into her new home.
 
Unless you have a solenoid at every mister like Richy Rich, you have 0 psi at every noz while off. Doesn't much matter if that's contained in 230 PSI JG 1/4" tubing, or 850 PSI SCH 80 1/2" piping. Being scarred helps no one.
 
DIYer said:
FYI: they make higher pressured PVC pipe, if it was even going to be an issue, not that it would be if you build the frame right with the misters far enough away to not sputter on your roots, not to mention if we were all as willing to toss money away as you we'd put a solenoid for every nozzle and flex in the PVC behind that wouldn't effect shit. 'I shoulda remembered that', lol.. Get the stick out your ass, it ain't my fault you wasted hundreds more then you needed to go to AA, maybe if you dropped that grand on a ring you'd still have a girl, BOOM!

EDIT:
SCH 80 Pipe Rated At 850 PSI. Problem solved for those of us smart enough not to waste the coin to put a solenoid at every noz.
Click to expand...

Its best to stop digging when you`re in a hole. See if putting the misters further away solves the problem of getting 5 seconds of mist on a 0.1second timer setting. I think you`re in for a few surprises when you get around to putting that system together :)
 
Atomizer said:
Its best to stop digging when you`re in a hole. See if putting the misters further away solves the problem of getting 5 seconds of mist on a 0.1second timer setting. I think you`re in for a few surprises when you get around to putting that system together :)
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Now that he's spent all that money it's a shame no one's gonna help him make it work. I don't really get upset, but I don't like the thread getting muttled up with all the crap- it's the only rule I emphasized from the start is no trolling, and I certainly have more respect for myself than to help someone who is so disrespectful.
 
grow some skin kid, if i get under yours, its only cuz i make a point, and news flash, the answers on putting it all together are already out there, no thanks to you, but r0m did a good job :)
 
DIYer said:
Unless you have a solenoid at every mister like Richy Rich, you have 0 psi at every noz while off. Doesn't much matter if that's contained in 230 PSI JG 1/4" tubing, or 850 PSI SCH 80 1/2" piping. Being scarred helps no one.
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Too many reasons why JG tubing/fittings are worth the money. I like the idea of building a frame out of PVC & running fluid through it. I would probably split off the PVC to a solenoid to JG tubing to the nozzle though. That's just me...

I don't know why you're being such a hard-ass. I remember calling you out on it when you first showed up around here. Then you seemed to chill for awhile. Opinions are one thing. Blatantly being a cunt because you feel like getting a rise out of somebody is another.

I get it if you don't subscribe to everything you read here. I don't have a solenoid at every nozzle. I don't run a pressure regulator or a relief valve. Nozzles without screens or drip valves OR a reputation. Accumulator that has only been "tested" to 100 psi. Hey Mike, what nutes ya using? Nope, wrong again! The list goes on...

Point is, nobody is telling you to do. Build something and refiine it. And rip it apart again, and refine it. Then tell us all about it.


Not that I dont subscribe to some of those things I'm missing. :)
 
DIYer said:
Unless you have a solenoid at every mister like Richy Rich, you have 0 psi at every noz while off. Doesn't much matter if that's contained in 230 PSI JG 1/4" tubing, or 850 PSI SCH 80 1/2" piping. Being scarred helps no one.
Click to expand...

Tip: use an adv
 
Everyday we have a choice when we wake up... To be this- :bigjoint: or be this... :finger:

I don't know about anyone else here- but I know what face feels better on me. DIYer- this can be the last time I talk to you again, or try giving me the same respect I give you and everyone else here and stop making yourself look bad. I know it's probably not in you to not have the last word- but I'm just sayin... Your choice.

I've put too much into this thread to have it mucked up like all the other aero threads- and I'll direct the same amount of attention to preserving it. From this point on I'm willing to not say another word about it again, and continue to talk aero and what not- but any more detracting attitude and I'm hitting the ignore button. It's not about tough skin or whatever- to be honest I'm not mad at all. What isn't cool is how it looks to the rest of the world, I am trying to spread knowledge as I learn it myself, in a world where there is so much conflicting information and plain bad advice. I think anyone would agree it's alot easier to give credibility to someone who doesn't let someone run all over them with slanted comments. Do we have an understanding?
 
CorralitosGrown99 said:
??? No Nutes? you're telling me you got those pom poms from tap water?
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Lol... I seriously doubt that... Probably just meant he's using nothing special... I think he's on the Home( or house?) and Garden nutes if I remember correctly. I'm looking forward to this AA setup I'm working on, apparently all I have to do is show the bottle to the plants and that's enough nutes for them.. ;)
 
Well, I'm gonna try one of these- http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-Digi...=220998051557&ps=63&clkid=7660762143880621622

Seems a good price and up to 16 on/off intervals so I can keep my dark period timings less than my light periods. I plan to just put my flip-flop timer on this one, and have it set to turn off a few times in the dark periods so things don't get overwatered... Hope this timer works the way I expect it to. The prce is right and even if it doesn't work as I plan, it's not too much money to risk to find out...
 
lol glad to see diyer is still pissing people off! diyer you have good knowledge but a horrible attitude!

mike im liking your new set up cant wait to see it in action!! I decided im going to veg in the 5 gallon buckets then build something similiar. probably pvc frame with foam up top and wrap it with water proof liner. then have it drip into either a 4x8 or 4x4 trey with a silk screen over it. one suggestion i have is make sure you have misters on the outsides and cut in a T point them straight at the roots and then continue the line to the bottom with a mister pointing up from the bottom. even in my 5 gallon buckets i dont have any on the bottom and there drying out just my .02
 
tb what would you start with using dyna gro GRO? Im having realy great results with the technaflora line but want to try out dyna gro
 
Trichy Bastard said:
Well, I'm gonna try one of these- http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-Digi...=220998051557&ps=63&clkid=7660762143880621622

Seems a good price and up to 16 on/off intervals so I can keep my dark period timings less than my light periods. I plan to just put my flip-flop timer on this one, and have it set to turn off a few times in the dark periods so things don't get overwatered... Hope this timer works the way I expect it to. The prce is right and even if it doesn't work as I plan, it's not too much money to risk to find out...
Click to expand...

nice great find!! im thinking of incorporating one these myself.
 
One thing I have to remedy is that I'm going to need to attach a second curtain. Very much like a shower curtain I need an inside liner to keep the mist in, and an outside liner to keep wind from the fan out. Not looking for air tight, but it's basically a wind tunnel right now. I've turned the area fan off in the meantime.
Having a hard time with the idea of putting a nozzle down low, pointing up. That to me is a homework assignment that is due in a couple weeks. Roots find amazing ways to capture water. One of the less glamourous ways is to grow in a straight line downward with gravity, right to the water source. I want to experiment with nozzle placement in a big chamber. I think if I can get the air movement from entering my chamber, this will be one heck of a test.
I wouldn't mind trying dyna gro. Has it been put through small orifice nozzles & documented?
 
dickkhead said:
lol glad to see diyer is still pissing people off! diyer you have good knowledge but a horrible attitude!

mike im liking your new set up cant wait to see it in action!! I decided im going to veg in the 5 gallon buckets then build something similiar. probably pvc frame with foam up top and wrap it with water proof liner. then have it drip into either a 4x8 or 4x4 trey with a silk screen over it. one suggestion i have is make sure you have misters on the outsides and cut in a T point them straight at the roots and then continue the line to the bottom with a mister pointing up from the bottom. even in my 5 gallon buckets i dont have any on the bottom and there drying out just my .02
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misting from the bottom is rough. I can see how as soon as you have the explosive root growth associated with things being dialed in- that the nozzles will just get covered up and not be a good thing. The issue is this Dickhead: Your buckets are too small, so the mist doesn't have the proper time to mix and spread out properly. In a larger sized chamber that issue will be solved, and you will not feel the need to mist from the bottom. Just look at tree farmer's pics- beautiful and no nozzles firing from the bottom- right?
 
Here is Homebrewer's old posted values for what he fed in hydro after veg with r.o. water and ph'd around 6.5:
Transition (1250ppm for 2-3 weeks):
Grow 3.5
Bloom 5
ProTekt 5
MagPro 1.5

Bloom (1350 ppm for 4-5 weeks):
Grow 2.5
Bloom 7.5
ProTekt 5
MagPro 1.5

Ripen (1250ppm for 1-2 week):
Grow 0
Bloom 10.5
ProTekt 5
MagPro 0

Some of the ppms may seem low, but given my 15 gallons res size, water usage/evaporation quickly condenses the ppm in a 24 hour period.

It's a starting point, but in aero you will want to start out around 200 ppm or so (.7 scale) with I assume similar ratios. The disclaimer is that Atomizer told me Dyna-gro didn't look like it might be the best blend for aero- but it was my contention to try it anyway just because it works so damn beautifully in soil, inert soil, and hydro. If you were to use sunshine mix #4 all you need to do to get some sweet looking plants in 5 gallon buckets is use 1ml of grow and 2ml of bloom per gallon in a feed, feed, water schedule... See why I was saying it might be the easiest way to grow even easier than those earthbuckets in alot of ways, if you could just set up a timed drip cycle and a res you could leave for weeks ;).
 
Mike Young said:
One thing I have to remedy is that I'm going to need to attach a second curtain. Very much like a shower curtain I need an inside liner to keep the mist in, and an outside liner to keep wind from the fan out. Not looking for air tight, but it's basically a wind tunnel right now. I've turned the area fan off in the meantime.
Having a hard time with the idea of putting a nozzle down low, pointing up. That to me is a homework assignment that is due in a couple weeks. Roots find amazing ways to capture water. One of the less glamourous ways is to grow in a straight line downward with gravity, right to the water source. I want to experiment with nozzle placement in a big chamber. I think if I can get the air movement from entering my chamber, this will be one heck of a test.
I wouldn't mind trying dyna gro. Has it been put through small orifice nozzles & documented?
Click to expand...
It's veryclean/clear- so no issues with clogging. No one that I know of has tried it in HPA, and I thought I would be the guinnea pig for it. If you want to take the plunge first, or Dickhead for that matter- I will be very interested in the results. There is no magic in a bottle, but that stuff seems very well put together to me by the results I have personally had myself, and witnessed others have. Best part is it's cheap and only one part- so you really cut down on the number of bottles you have. The feeding schedule I just posted is a good start ratio wise- but who knows exactly what is best for your particular situation... I really still want to know how they are the only nute company that can manage to not have to use an A & B type nute- even though their stuff is more concentrated than most of the other brands, there seems to be no precipitation. I mentioned it before- I heard they said the reason was they used very high grade ingredients, but I thought this was a basic law of chemistry, regardless of "quality"...
 
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