Both have IP67 ratings. Its just because the ELG is brand new and harder to source.
HLGs also have the slightest edge in regards to voltage range, maximum power output, and efficiency. My source doesnt carry the ELG -C series so I cant comment on pricing differences. Seems like it could be...
Interesting because if MH has a "negligible" amount than that would mean that sunlight also has a "negligible" amount of UVs...
(using your 5w out of 1000w as a base)
Realistically if youre going to claim the "need" for supplemental UV you must also proclaim the "need" for CO2 levels to be...
Do photo plants need more light than autos or something now? Itll grow an auto but not photo? Get real.
CMH lights are "crap"? I dont think Ive ever heard that claim anywhere but right here.
OP, I recommend you get more opinions on this matter from people with experience.
Im not spending 80+ on "good" water blocks when Ill be actively cooling them with a AC converted into a chiller. ~3.5KwH cooling capacity for ~$200 or so.
You might want to look into a simple car radiator though, cheaper and more cooling than any PC radiators youll find. The one you...
Im going to use CPU water blocks on my next project, but theyll be hooked up to an actual cooling setup not the tiny little cooling setup that youd use inside a computer. Just eliminating the need to make a block out of aluminum tubing.
Going with copper based ones off ebay for like ~15 a pop...
And if youre not into spending thousands and thousands on a water cooling setup, you can DIY one out of a window AC or dehumidifier for fractions of the cost...
He'd have to most likely sacrifice potentially huge efficiency gains for his grow to do that though. I guess it comes down to where ever your priorities lie...
I was getting at the fact that once you get your system to the point where it can keep water temps within a few degrees of ambient, nothing short of a chiller will help.
Id just recommend a 5gal bucket with inlet and outlet and one of the "higher grade" lids with a rubber gasket.
I would think you could make a simple sealable res from a 5gal bucket and lid. Just thinking of other possible options for ya.
Also, as long as your radiator is removing more heat that is being added, your "optimal" flowrate will then depend on the ambient temperature around your radiator...
The thing we have to remember is without a res, your radiator MUST remove equal or more heat from the system than is being added to it. As long as that condition is met, increasing flow rate will increase efficiency and performance. If that condition isnt met, you need to go back to the...
What issues would a res present? Also, coming from the plumbing perspective Im not so sure I would call a house a closed loop because it is pressurized by an outside, constantly refreshed source.
Your method seems like it would work no problem, but I feel it may just be a little extra work...
If your radiator is efficient enough at removing the heat, yes a smaller res wont hurt. If you build your setup and find your radiator not enough to keep the temps from climbing, a bigger res can be an effective cheap solution.
Also, as long as you have a res, a bleeder valve isnt really that...
Move the lights around a bit after you hook up and power it up and all the air will be removed.
Even if the tubes werent completely filled with water there would still be plenty to cool it regardless, gravity is keeping the water in contact with the hottest part of the tubing.
Way to ignore the only fucking question I wanted you to answer :clap:
Also, I think youre completely misinterpreting how my setup would work. Each pump would be to a separate light bar. Not to mention ball valves wouldnt really solve a back pressure issue, maybe youd want to look into what...
Who cares if it looks ghetto so long as it works :)
My only concern would be whether the volume reduction going from the plate through the weld to the pipe would cause a bottleneck or not. For these applications at these temps it might not even be an issue though, idk.