1000 watts Rdwc 4x4
- Thread starter phenob
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cannabis420420
Well-Known Member
nice 
Jozikins
Well-Known Member
I'm not too much of a snow storm believer, but those trichomes are very obvious, this is a SFV trait, but damn they do look extra frosty. Both strains I've grown from Cali Connections so far have been totally frosted top side and bottom.
I guess I lately I've been doubting myself more than the snow storm. My old room mate is doing better than I am at the moment and it bothers me because I taught him how to grow. I think I'm starting to read too many facts and not see enough of it practiced. He is also using the new Purple Maxx formula (snow storm + purple maxx at extra strength) and I have been noticing a huge difference in the size of trichomes, I'm starting to believe the purple maxx really works. It definitely helped bring out a lot of cool red and gold color in the SFV nugs.
I guess I lately I've been doubting myself more than the snow storm. My old room mate is doing better than I am at the moment and it bothers me because I taught him how to grow. I think I'm starting to read too many facts and not see enough of it practiced. He is also using the new Purple Maxx formula (snow storm + purple maxx at extra strength) and I have been noticing a huge difference in the size of trichomes, I'm starting to believe the purple maxx really works. It definitely helped bring out a lot of cool red and gold color in the SFV nugs.
phenob
Active Member
i thought the new formulas from the humboldt whatever company were separating purple maxx from snowstorm. per the company, the old formula had basically both products in one but it wasn't up to snuff. the company says straight up that it wasn't ready for market but they put it out anyway due to such high demand. after reformulating, the two products are separate. they say this solved their problem with the original formula.
now that doesn't mean a whole hell of a lot when there's no telling what's in the jive juice at all, but .. /shrug
im just not a purple fan. i've found that purple weed doesn't vaporize to my liking. maybe i just haven't had the right luck, but to me the more purple the weed the more it tends to just gum up the vape screens without producing a really nice, long lasting bowl. again, maybe nothing to do with nothing, but that's why i generally avoid anything with purple as a prime characteristic.
wish i could get some decent pics but i just havent been able to get in here at the right time. not ever growing this strain before, who knows if it's just normal, but 48 hours after the snowstorm it went from looking pretty damn good to holy shit dude.
thats one thing i really like about this strain. gorgeous coloring. really nice shaped, dense buds too. this is going to be good stuff.
im fired if i let this one mold!
so we are mid way through week 6. the end of week 8 falls on a friday, so i'm targetting that weekend for the chop. will be prepared to take it a little earlier or later, be a little flexible if needed. flushed the main res with straight tap water today. it's simply not going to be practical to use anything other than tap right out of the hose when i'm dealing with around 40gal. a filter system is in the works for next run. this run was meant to be raw and cheap, and in that regard it's done great. very low nute usage since i didn't flush for 3 or 4 weeks, low maintenance, very happy with how this quick build is working out. we'll get more serious with it as time and money become more readily available.
in the meantime, we are at 1000ppm and ph 6.0. water temp is 75f.
im going to redo all the buckets after this run. i don't like the space between bottom of pot and the drink. going to raise the water level a good 6 inches.
now that doesn't mean a whole hell of a lot when there's no telling what's in the jive juice at all, but .. /shrug
im just not a purple fan. i've found that purple weed doesn't vaporize to my liking. maybe i just haven't had the right luck, but to me the more purple the weed the more it tends to just gum up the vape screens without producing a really nice, long lasting bowl. again, maybe nothing to do with nothing, but that's why i generally avoid anything with purple as a prime characteristic.
wish i could get some decent pics but i just havent been able to get in here at the right time. not ever growing this strain before, who knows if it's just normal, but 48 hours after the snowstorm it went from looking pretty damn good to holy shit dude.
thats one thing i really like about this strain. gorgeous coloring. really nice shaped, dense buds too. this is going to be good stuff.
im fired if i let this one mold!
so we are mid way through week 6. the end of week 8 falls on a friday, so i'm targetting that weekend for the chop. will be prepared to take it a little earlier or later, be a little flexible if needed. flushed the main res with straight tap water today. it's simply not going to be practical to use anything other than tap right out of the hose when i'm dealing with around 40gal. a filter system is in the works for next run. this run was meant to be raw and cheap, and in that regard it's done great. very low nute usage since i didn't flush for 3 or 4 weeks, low maintenance, very happy with how this quick build is working out. we'll get more serious with it as time and money become more readily available.
in the meantime, we are at 1000ppm and ph 6.0. water temp is 75f.
im going to redo all the buckets after this run. i don't like the space between bottom of pot and the drink. going to raise the water level a good 6 inches.
phenob
Active Member
Spent some time looking and couldn't find for the life of me where i got the above info on snow storm and purple maxx.
it's on the bottle label. duh. exactly as described above, the two products are separated now, each with it's own purpose. per the anecdotal references out there, the original purple maxx had both products in it, but really only the snow storm was working correctly. they separated the two and were then able to get purple maxx working correctly.
so they say anyway. just wanted to give some sort of source on this info.
also, it's gettin stinky in here! I can still smell the sfv with around 1000cfm of flow running through 3 different charcoal filters. no stink on the outside as far as i know, but you can definitely smell it in the room. they've smelled great the entire time, but just in the last day or two do you get really whacked in the nose with it when you begin to unzip the tent, even when the tent filter/vent is and has been running for awhile.
it's on the bottle label. duh. exactly as described above, the two products are separated now, each with it's own purpose. per the anecdotal references out there, the original purple maxx had both products in it, but really only the snow storm was working correctly. they separated the two and were then able to get purple maxx working correctly.
so they say anyway. just wanted to give some sort of source on this info.
also, it's gettin stinky in here! I can still smell the sfv with around 1000cfm of flow running through 3 different charcoal filters. no stink on the outside as far as i know, but you can definitely smell it in the room. they've smelled great the entire time, but just in the last day or two do you get really whacked in the nose with it when you begin to unzip the tent, even when the tent filter/vent is and has been running for awhile.
Jozikins
Well-Known Member
I'm smoking some of my boss' Purple Kush through his Volcano right now, and I'm not having any troubles at all, vapes like a dream, and purple as fuuuuck. I'm not impressed by color, but I am impressed by how good real Purple Kush is. I also have some Purple Sour Grapes right now, but it's only purple because I gave it a higher pH while finishing and flushed it forever, this stuff doesn't vape right, but it is also still early on in curing. But fuck, out of a bowl it's one of the most potent things I've smoked in a very long time. I'm retiring the Sour Grape though, it's such a bitch to grow, a total mold whore with stretched as fuck nodes, and a powerful thirst for sulfur, so much that molasses can't do the trick alone.
I recently bought a Small Boy De-Chlorinator and sediment filter, I bought it like a sucker at MSRP for 110 bucks or somewhere in that neighborhood, but with one google search I found one for $78. And it takes about 5 minutes for it to fill a 5 gallon bucket, a lot better than the 4 hours it took my r/o system. The Tall Boy goes for as cheap as $137 online, which is a LOT less than MSRP, and that beast can do 10 gallons in 5 minutes. Best of all there is no waste water, but it still leaves me with liquid rock for water, 150ppm after treatment. I'm about to install a whole house filter, so that might bring it down. I bought it practically new off of a brewer for 10 bucks, it costs 1500 in the store.... fucking score! I think there is enough cal/mag to stop supplementing in my water now, I'm going to do a run with out cal mag for a while and see how they like it, right now it seems that cal mag might be locked out on some of them because I kept adding it for a while.
But the whole Snowstorm/purplemaxx story is backwards, yo. Once they got it right they combined them into one product. That's why Snow Storm is soooo cheap but so hard to find right now, it's all being sold at liquidation prices. I'm going to pick up some purple maxx next time I have some extra cash, but I just spend 350 yesterday on the garden, 80 bucks worth of crap I have to return, and I just learned I need a new 600w bulb because I have been burning it up using it on the 400w mode on my ballast this whole grow, I thought I was using 600w but I guess I was using 400w. Anyways, my bulb is all blackened now. I want to just exchange all these t-5 hoods that don't fit for it, but I will probably have to buy new ones anyways, so it'll be even more money gone.... fucking dammit.
1000ppms sounds good, these girls are minimalist, big yields for small contributions. Water temp could be better, but whatever. You know you could remove the Great White and the VermiT and use h2o2 in your water, then it wont rot your roots even if it is too hot and full of molasses. And I have to agree, the SFV does grow so fucking ideally, and I love the crest they get. You can push them to week 9 dude, I think it's best personally, smoke becomes a little heavier, but the buds get even more heavy.
Please do raise your water level, it will lower your temps and increase your feeder roots. Low water levels create long rope like roots used for searching for water and carrying it up to the plant like a straw, all the fine web-like hairs only grow when they are fully submerged and that is what eats up all the food. If you can have basically all feeder roots, and no ropey roots, you can easily add an oz on your harvest per plant. I've actually put this one to the test a few times, and while testing I learned you can grow in about an inch of water too, which is cool.
I recently bought a Small Boy De-Chlorinator and sediment filter, I bought it like a sucker at MSRP for 110 bucks or somewhere in that neighborhood, but with one google search I found one for $78. And it takes about 5 minutes for it to fill a 5 gallon bucket, a lot better than the 4 hours it took my r/o system. The Tall Boy goes for as cheap as $137 online, which is a LOT less than MSRP, and that beast can do 10 gallons in 5 minutes. Best of all there is no waste water, but it still leaves me with liquid rock for water, 150ppm after treatment. I'm about to install a whole house filter, so that might bring it down. I bought it practically new off of a brewer for 10 bucks, it costs 1500 in the store.... fucking score! I think there is enough cal/mag to stop supplementing in my water now, I'm going to do a run with out cal mag for a while and see how they like it, right now it seems that cal mag might be locked out on some of them because I kept adding it for a while.
But the whole Snowstorm/purplemaxx story is backwards, yo. Once they got it right they combined them into one product. That's why Snow Storm is soooo cheap but so hard to find right now, it's all being sold at liquidation prices. I'm going to pick up some purple maxx next time I have some extra cash, but I just spend 350 yesterday on the garden, 80 bucks worth of crap I have to return, and I just learned I need a new 600w bulb because I have been burning it up using it on the 400w mode on my ballast this whole grow, I thought I was using 600w but I guess I was using 400w. Anyways, my bulb is all blackened now. I want to just exchange all these t-5 hoods that don't fit for it, but I will probably have to buy new ones anyways, so it'll be even more money gone.... fucking dammit.
1000ppms sounds good, these girls are minimalist, big yields for small contributions. Water temp could be better, but whatever. You know you could remove the Great White and the VermiT and use h2o2 in your water, then it wont rot your roots even if it is too hot and full of molasses. And I have to agree, the SFV does grow so fucking ideally, and I love the crest they get. You can push them to week 9 dude, I think it's best personally, smoke becomes a little heavier, but the buds get even more heavy.
Please do raise your water level, it will lower your temps and increase your feeder roots. Low water levels create long rope like roots used for searching for water and carrying it up to the plant like a straw, all the fine web-like hairs only grow when they are fully submerged and that is what eats up all the food. If you can have basically all feeder roots, and no ropey roots, you can easily add an oz on your harvest per plant. I've actually put this one to the test a few times, and while testing I learned you can grow in about an inch of water too, which is cool.
phenob
Active Member
"If you like PURPLE MAXX / SNOW STORM, you'll probably love SNOW STORM ULTRA. When we first started selling PURPLE MAXX we said on the label that we didn't think it was ready for market but started selling it anyway because of the extreme demand from our retail customers at Eel River Hydroponics. After 2 years of playing we've discovered we really have 2 overlapping products: PURPLE MAXX and SNOW STORM. We've sparated the SNOW STORM and taken it to the next level: SNOW STORM ULTRA. We can say for a fact that SNOW STORM ULTRA is definitely ready for market!"
- from the back label of snow storm ultra
i used 2.5ml in a half gallon, and used less than a cup of that on the foliar, dumping the remains into the reservoir. if i keep this up weekly, with this amount being more than plenty for both my cabinet and tent, this one bottle will last 7.5 years.
- from the back label of snow storm ultra
i used 2.5ml in a half gallon, and used less than a cup of that on the foliar, dumping the remains into the reservoir. if i keep this up weekly, with this amount being more than plenty for both my cabinet and tent, this one bottle will last 7.5 years.
phenob
Active Member
planning on dropping around $150-200 on a filter of some sort. i'd like it to take no more than 10-15 minutes at the most to fill 30 or so gallons. i don't know if this will be an achievable goal or not, but will look more into it when money is available.
i would much rather be working with microbes than h202. brewing the tea is fun, especially now that i've refined my brew bucket into something really cool. i''ve always had some dark spots on the roots, almost from week 1 on this grow. the spots are all in the area above the water line. the roots there aren't as ropey as you'd expect, but agreed with everything you're saying. water level needs to come up. the spots are brown, not slimey, not nasty looking or smelling, but not right looking either. there was some coloration like this on the roots in the drink but much lighter. since starting with the home brew tea these have subsided and the drinking roots look good. not pearly white, probably because i've been putting so much brown stuff in there as i overuse the tea, but still better looking. even late in flower, roots have shown growth since getting serious with the tea.
i think this will work out great once the waterline comes up, and i refine the tea and feeding schedule, as well as getting the chlorine out of the water to make it even more effective. the point of my experimentation with tea like this is to see if we can work with res temp at 75f. i know a chiller and bit cooler res temp would be ideal, if not certainly necessary, but if i can mitigate what i'm risking or losing with the higher temp to where the difference really isn't much would be ideal, and is worth a serious shot.
i would much rather be working with microbes than h202. brewing the tea is fun, especially now that i've refined my brew bucket into something really cool. i''ve always had some dark spots on the roots, almost from week 1 on this grow. the spots are all in the area above the water line. the roots there aren't as ropey as you'd expect, but agreed with everything you're saying. water level needs to come up. the spots are brown, not slimey, not nasty looking or smelling, but not right looking either. there was some coloration like this on the roots in the drink but much lighter. since starting with the home brew tea these have subsided and the drinking roots look good. not pearly white, probably because i've been putting so much brown stuff in there as i overuse the tea, but still better looking. even late in flower, roots have shown growth since getting serious with the tea.
i think this will work out great once the waterline comes up, and i refine the tea and feeding schedule, as well as getting the chlorine out of the water to make it even more effective. the point of my experimentation with tea like this is to see if we can work with res temp at 75f. i know a chiller and bit cooler res temp would be ideal, if not certainly necessary, but if i can mitigate what i'm risking or losing with the higher temp to where the difference really isn't much would be ideal, and is worth a serious shot.
phenob
Active Member
sorry spamming this thread out today. ah well!
will stay flexible with the chop. i could easily extend them out to week 9, it would just be a two week flush. no problem. i really don't have a good eye yet for trich coloration but, from what i can see when i whip out my big 10x, i'd say 60%+ cloudy trichs at this point. very few amber, if really any. again though, i suck at this in particular so could be completely wrong. glad i have your time suggestions to go on for sure!
will stay flexible with the chop. i could easily extend them out to week 9, it would just be a two week flush. no problem. i really don't have a good eye yet for trich coloration but, from what i can see when i whip out my big 10x, i'd say 60%+ cloudy trichs at this point. very few amber, if really any. again though, i suck at this in particular so could be completely wrong. glad i have your time suggestions to go on for sure!
Jozikins
Well-Known Member
Well fuck, I was way off, but I guess not completely. Snow Storm is gone, but snow storm ultra is new, got it. So does the new Purple Maxx have the new snow storm ultra in it, and that's why it's more expensive? Send me a picture (inside and out) of your brewing bucket, they wanted me to spend 400 bucks at the hydro store for a prebuilt one, because it was funny shaped and had a soap bar holder installed already for the tea cartridges, what a load of bullshit.
The Big Boy water filter is 350, and that thing can run as a whole house filter. Plenty of output. You can just hook up your Small Boy to a float valve though, they are made to operate with one, my boss just has a float valve a small boy on a 55 gallon drum, and it stays full all day. And believe me, he deals with more plants than me or you would care to.
Extra healthy roots will be pearly white, but the brown spots aren't anything bad, that is just old nutrients sitting on roots that cannot feed (because they are the transporting roots, not feeding roots) so don't even worry about it.
The Big Boy water filter is 350, and that thing can run as a whole house filter. Plenty of output. You can just hook up your Small Boy to a float valve though, they are made to operate with one, my boss just has a float valve a small boy on a 55 gallon drum, and it stays full all day. And believe me, he deals with more plants than me or you would care to.
Extra healthy roots will be pearly white, but the brown spots aren't anything bad, that is just old nutrients sitting on roots that cannot feed (because they are the transporting roots, not feeding roots) so don't even worry about it.
phenob
Active Member
negative, purple maxx and snow storm ultra are (supposedly) two completely different things.
that is complete idiocy, $400 for a brew bucket. unless it's built to brew at a volume enough to keep your hydro shop stocked, and hell even then .. for $400 and a little effort i could build a hell of a contraption.
i'll post a run down of my more or less finished bucket, but read that heisenberg tea thread. everything you need to know is in there. my bucket cost me about $30. $60 - $75 total if you figure all the cost of the specialized bacteria and fungi products. details in the thread too on a substitute for most of great white for $6, so you could do it much cheaper than my total. that's with cost of the bucket and everything involved.
i basically stuck a 5" net pot into the top of a bucket. net pot has panty hose stretched around it, and the bottom of the pot is cut out. There is a 6" micro air stone in the bottom of the hose, secured there with a hot glued safety pin. fill hose with ewc, fill bucket with water, add great white and aquashield and a bit of molasses and away you go. 48 hours later you have like $100 in better than VermiT.
with the stone connected to the bottom of the hose, when it's done and ready to be cleaned out, just pull the airstone out by the air-hose and the panty hose, with the ewc inside, pulls up and turns inside out. wash with garden hose, done in one minute, ready to repeat.
1/2" valve on the bottom of the bucket lets me run the tea directly into the res when it's ready, or into a jug to be refrigerated. i love it. been using some at home on the lawn with really nice results. spots where i've tested it have grown 1/2" - 1" higher than the rest of the area in a week, and are much, much more dark green.
and great explanation of those brown spots. that's exactly what they look like.
that is complete idiocy, $400 for a brew bucket. unless it's built to brew at a volume enough to keep your hydro shop stocked, and hell even then .. for $400 and a little effort i could build a hell of a contraption.
i'll post a run down of my more or less finished bucket, but read that heisenberg tea thread. everything you need to know is in there. my bucket cost me about $30. $60 - $75 total if you figure all the cost of the specialized bacteria and fungi products. details in the thread too on a substitute for most of great white for $6, so you could do it much cheaper than my total. that's with cost of the bucket and everything involved.
i basically stuck a 5" net pot into the top of a bucket. net pot has panty hose stretched around it, and the bottom of the pot is cut out. There is a 6" micro air stone in the bottom of the hose, secured there with a hot glued safety pin. fill hose with ewc, fill bucket with water, add great white and aquashield and a bit of molasses and away you go. 48 hours later you have like $100 in better than VermiT.
with the stone connected to the bottom of the hose, when it's done and ready to be cleaned out, just pull the airstone out by the air-hose and the panty hose, with the ewc inside, pulls up and turns inside out. wash with garden hose, done in one minute, ready to repeat.
1/2" valve on the bottom of the bucket lets me run the tea directly into the res when it's ready, or into a jug to be refrigerated. i love it. been using some at home on the lawn with really nice results. spots where i've tested it have grown 1/2" - 1" higher than the rest of the area in a week, and are much, much more dark green.
and great explanation of those brown spots. that's exactly what they look like.
Jozikins
Well-Known Member
Huh, I kind of liked them being together. I bet they call it improved because now you have to buy 2 products. Haha. But I'm just going to call up Humboldt Wholesale and ask for a free sample. I think the exact company is called The Emerald Triangle... not very creative.
I am absolutely going to research that thread now, the set up is brilliant and simple, I love the net pot idea, I have some lids that I bought with 5" net pots built into them... perfect. I have a bunch of these with buckets that have holes in the bottom from my old DWC set ups. I had soooo many, I can't believe I never linked them all together, it was just me being lazy, I would like to use more hydro again though, this dirt is getting sooo dirty! It's not that it's anymore difficult, hydro is just soo much cleaner... granted you have a drain installed in your floor, I spill nutrients like nobodies business.
I am absolutely going to research that thread now, the set up is brilliant and simple, I love the net pot idea, I have some lids that I bought with 5" net pots built into them... perfect. I have a bunch of these with buckets that have holes in the bottom from my old DWC set ups. I had soooo many, I can't believe I never linked them all together, it was just me being lazy, I would like to use more hydro again though, this dirt is getting sooo dirty! It's not that it's anymore difficult, hydro is just soo much cleaner... granted you have a drain installed in your floor, I spill nutrients like nobodies business.
phenob
Active Member
ppm down under 800 now, ph 6.0.
if i wasnt doing hydro i'd be using buckets full of coco. i can't stand dirty. speaking of which, if you wouldn't mind throwing ewc into your medium then the tea bucket becomes even easier. just throw in a hand or two of ewc, don't bother filtering it. make chunky style tea and go for it.
Jozikins
Well-Known Member
Those are starting to look like some serious SFV nugs. I've never done a 2 week flush in DWC, 9 or 10 was my max, but go as long as you can go! You can seriously change the flavor up in this last week, if you load on the carbs it takes on a tasty new gummy worm flavor, especially after a few weeks of curing.
phenob
Active Member
when i gave you a nug of my 1st blue dream harvest your remark was something along the lines or "really good flush". That was a 14 day flush.
would love to load up on carbs and try that out, but new golden rule for dwc, never ever add carbs directly into the res. it's not worth the risk. instead I'll brew a batch of tea with more molasses than usual, so when the unused carbs are unleashed on the res, there are billions of my fanatic microbe army to accompany it all. otherwise, especially at res temp around 75, carbs into dwc = feeding the bad guys.
what would be cool .. need an IV for a plant. Poke it into the stem and start the sugar water drip.
someday.
would love to load up on carbs and try that out, but new golden rule for dwc, never ever add carbs directly into the res. it's not worth the risk. instead I'll brew a batch of tea with more molasses than usual, so when the unused carbs are unleashed on the res, there are billions of my fanatic microbe army to accompany it all. otherwise, especially at res temp around 75, carbs into dwc = feeding the bad guys.
what would be cool .. need an IV for a plant. Poke it into the stem and start the sugar water drip.
someday.
phenob
Active Member
ppm down to 500, ph 6.2. res flushed yesterday with RO. nothing being added back in save for some sweet tea.
going to try drowning these girls, probably start it tomorrow. there's a great thread around here on it, but basically this is turning off the bubbles and pumps and letting the plants sit in still water for a couple of days to kickstart the fermentation process. this should be coupled with a few days of darkness pre-chop, some even give it a week of no light before chop but i'm not that patient.
also gave them another foliar of snowstorm ultra this afternoon, about 30 minutes before lights on.
also added a 9" fan for circulation, lashed to the top of the tent near the filter and exhaust.
also came up with a much, much better way to rack buckets into a tent. ingenious shit, will post details once i've got it all fleshed out. basically using a standard wire shelving rack with holes cut into the top shelf so buckets can slide in from the top to rest on their collars and the shelf below. shelves can be adjusted to set altitude wherever necessary, so you could terrace the setup. the space beneath the buckets can be used for both intake and exhaust manifolds, even a res if one were so inclined, freeing up more space for more buckets. i think i could cram 16 in there using this method .. 16! way more than i need or want in the tent, but it would work. just need to square away how the manifolds will fit now. will install this after this round gets chopped. will be cool too since this setup can be lashed together and to the tent structure, allowing it to flex and move in an earthquake without buckets being tipped over. well unless it's one hell of an earthquake, in which case this tent is the least of anyone's worries.
going to try drowning these girls, probably start it tomorrow. there's a great thread around here on it, but basically this is turning off the bubbles and pumps and letting the plants sit in still water for a couple of days to kickstart the fermentation process. this should be coupled with a few days of darkness pre-chop, some even give it a week of no light before chop but i'm not that patient.
also gave them another foliar of snowstorm ultra this afternoon, about 30 minutes before lights on.
also added a 9" fan for circulation, lashed to the top of the tent near the filter and exhaust.
also came up with a much, much better way to rack buckets into a tent. ingenious shit, will post details once i've got it all fleshed out. basically using a standard wire shelving rack with holes cut into the top shelf so buckets can slide in from the top to rest on their collars and the shelf below. shelves can be adjusted to set altitude wherever necessary, so you could terrace the setup. the space beneath the buckets can be used for both intake and exhaust manifolds, even a res if one were so inclined, freeing up more space for more buckets. i think i could cram 16 in there using this method .. 16! way more than i need or want in the tent, but it would work. just need to square away how the manifolds will fit now. will install this after this round gets chopped. will be cool too since this setup can be lashed together and to the tent structure, allowing it to flex and move in an earthquake without buckets being tipped over. well unless it's one hell of an earthquake, in which case this tent is the least of anyone's worries.
Jozikins
Well-Known Member
Flushing sounds like it is going great, but before you go on some pre-chopping cockamamie resin building regimen, I have a few points to input. You have already had multiple rot/mold/and more rot problems, with your water temps, I do not believe it would be wise to let your plants sit in stagnant pools of water for days at a time. Remember that without an airstone or h2o2, you need to maintain a certain water temperature to have a survivable amount of o2 in your water. I believe after about 68 is when your plants start choking without bubbles. If you can keep your temps under that, than that would work great, otherwise we are looking at more possible root rot. I will say almost definite root rot. You know what works, and what is tried and true, so why not keep with it? I thought you did an amazing flush last time, as you noted.
As for 24, 48, or even 96 hours of darkness before chop, there are some serious mold-related problems to consider here as well. Mold loves darkness, mold will spread at a much more rapid rate without UVB to interfere with it's cynical schemes. If you had mold in one room, you have it in all of them. It's sad to say but the spores spread everywhere and infect everything, even if it takes a few weeks to show up. This dark period may take this two week period down to a few days, and it could end up biting you on the drying rack again.
What a dark period really does: Now I have studied this personally for 2 or 3 years now, I have almost always put one plant into darkness before harvesting the whole crop to watch under the microscope and see what happens. Up until recently I have done this, after understanding the effects I only do it as needed. What a extended dark period does is add stress to the plant, and it basically thinks it's already dead, but it still has all the juices flowing. The trichomes do not grow larger, per se, but some swelling may occur; the trichomes are simply maturing at a rapid rate because the plant has been tricked into death, as far as I can tell. I did not notice more trichomes, I did not notice larger trichomes, I noticed a lot more amber trichomes, sometimes by a visual margin of almost 30%. You can see that many trichomes have swelled up, turned amber and cracked open, some have not, some went from clear to milky.
And amber trichomes really glow against the plant. Like Christmas! And the milky trichomes are more visible than the clear ones, so they look more crystallized, but they aren't. And I like the soaring head high I get from some of the clear trichomes, personally. Some people may want more CBD, but I want THC so I can go to space!
In short, if you need to chop at week 7, but you really should have chopped at week 8, you can give it a 24 or 48 hour darkness period to force the plant into it's final stage of maturity, this does not mean you would gain any more weight than you would over a single normal night. At least as far as I can tell, the weight is always within ballpark. I would probably not risk going anything past 48 hours, but I had a grow partner once that went 72 on a White Berry at 6 or 7 weeks, and it came out with less yield because of the early cut, but still smoked fantastic, just like an 8 week crop. This could be a very beneficial practice for SOG growers on a mass scale, growing 7 week blooming plants, that could make more profit by turning them in 6.
And to be honest, the yield on that White Berry was still 2.2 oz on the single plant, and I credit that to the incredible FIM job I did on it, which was the best I'd ever done, and a good job of trimming the scruff out during the first 2 weeks of flower. The original single stock plant pulled 2.7oz, or somewhere close to that, almost 3oz of a 16"-18" plant from in DWC from seed. The White Berry that was put into the 72 hr darkness period was actually a revegged clone of the original from seed I was just talking about. I never do reveg, but this thing was awesome, until it got sick. The clones of the reveg mom all ended up having mold issues and were thrown away until I got more seeds. Which I did!
So, if you ever bother to read all that, I hope it gives you a bit of insight. Because that was a lot of words...
Also on the sub-subject of mold, 16 plants in a 4x4 is asking for trouble, I have my new 4x4 right beside me with 9 OSK and your 2 BD's, which are probably just mom's for now on, because I can't get them to fucking clone for some reason! Arghh! Not to mention they are HUGE. But I have room for more than 12 plants, but with my chance of mold I wont risk it. I think you may want to keep the same mind set. Mold is a common foe between us, we must remain vigilant!
But the rack idea is fantastic.
In other news: Opened up some new bottles of H&G A part and B part the other day. Have had them for 6 months or so, pop them open, and because of the way they are sealed they are fresh as fuck. Now they may not advertise "pH perfect" but it is. I put in the right amounts of everything, according to my PPM meter and my journal of what my plants like, and my pH was a perfect 5.8-5.9 bouncing right between the two, which is PERFECT because the instructions suggest pH 5.89, how the fuck do they get it this accurate? I don't know but it's amazing! I didn't have to do any pH adjusting before adding my tea, or any of my living beneficial additives. Even my old additives are still pH perfect. It has been a few days and pH has risen by 1 point, it now bounces between 5.9 and 6.0, usually by the end of the week it sits between 6.1 and 6.2, pretty snazzy, eh?
The problem is, once these liter bottles start getting old (Because they last forever) they lose this, and pH spins out of control and it takes me like 2 hours to get it stable... Sometimes more. But they stay pretty stable, I have never seen a pH over 6.4 after being ignored for a few days, and that is with the old stuff.
Bad news: The new stuff is watered down.
Good news: I have some extra A&B of their Aqua Flakes formula that was purchased right before the new stuff was put on the shelf, but I've opened it on my last/final DWC grow (not actually final, but as of right now), but still should be pretty stable.
I'm also going to post an article for you tomorrow morning when I'm not so lazy, but it's from the March issue of Maximum Yield, and it perfectly explains your theory of EC and pH being exactly related with your wild pH swings and all the other issues, including mold. "pH perfect" is in the name of the article, in case you get antsy and can't wait. But your original theory was correct about all the problems being related, and this explains why. I certainly learned a lot from it. I learn a lot in the bathroom, lol.
In other news, my SFV comes down in 7 days or less. Chopping a few days shy of 10 weeks, a little later than I wanted too. But I'm working out a completely new schedule, a few complications fucked up the perfect SOG I almost had. They are weaker now so I will have to fight mold, which I saw signs of today. I should actually treat that before I go to bed.... fuuuuck. I forgot I found that horrible powder-spotted leaf.
So that's everything I've been wanting to tell you this week. That, and I am going to have OSK clones soon, and I've seen them flowered out, possibly better than the SFV, by a good bit, I get to smoke it next week, my partner already flowered one out. And I just came up on some fem White Berry and Grape Krush seeds, pick of the litter, all 40 of them. And the Grape Krush is discontinued by DJ Short, and it is AMAZING.
Goodnight, I'm finishing my night with a bowl of Face Off I chopped down last month. Fucking mega dank super-headband effect.
As for 24, 48, or even 96 hours of darkness before chop, there are some serious mold-related problems to consider here as well. Mold loves darkness, mold will spread at a much more rapid rate without UVB to interfere with it's cynical schemes. If you had mold in one room, you have it in all of them. It's sad to say but the spores spread everywhere and infect everything, even if it takes a few weeks to show up. This dark period may take this two week period down to a few days, and it could end up biting you on the drying rack again.
What a dark period really does: Now I have studied this personally for 2 or 3 years now, I have almost always put one plant into darkness before harvesting the whole crop to watch under the microscope and see what happens. Up until recently I have done this, after understanding the effects I only do it as needed. What a extended dark period does is add stress to the plant, and it basically thinks it's already dead, but it still has all the juices flowing. The trichomes do not grow larger, per se, but some swelling may occur; the trichomes are simply maturing at a rapid rate because the plant has been tricked into death, as far as I can tell. I did not notice more trichomes, I did not notice larger trichomes, I noticed a lot more amber trichomes, sometimes by a visual margin of almost 30%. You can see that many trichomes have swelled up, turned amber and cracked open, some have not, some went from clear to milky.
And amber trichomes really glow against the plant. Like Christmas! And the milky trichomes are more visible than the clear ones, so they look more crystallized, but they aren't. And I like the soaring head high I get from some of the clear trichomes, personally. Some people may want more CBD, but I want THC so I can go to space!
In short, if you need to chop at week 7, but you really should have chopped at week 8, you can give it a 24 or 48 hour darkness period to force the plant into it's final stage of maturity, this does not mean you would gain any more weight than you would over a single normal night. At least as far as I can tell, the weight is always within ballpark. I would probably not risk going anything past 48 hours, but I had a grow partner once that went 72 on a White Berry at 6 or 7 weeks, and it came out with less yield because of the early cut, but still smoked fantastic, just like an 8 week crop. This could be a very beneficial practice for SOG growers on a mass scale, growing 7 week blooming plants, that could make more profit by turning them in 6.
And to be honest, the yield on that White Berry was still 2.2 oz on the single plant, and I credit that to the incredible FIM job I did on it, which was the best I'd ever done, and a good job of trimming the scruff out during the first 2 weeks of flower. The original single stock plant pulled 2.7oz, or somewhere close to that, almost 3oz of a 16"-18" plant from in DWC from seed. The White Berry that was put into the 72 hr darkness period was actually a revegged clone of the original from seed I was just talking about. I never do reveg, but this thing was awesome, until it got sick. The clones of the reveg mom all ended up having mold issues and were thrown away until I got more seeds. Which I did!
So, if you ever bother to read all that, I hope it gives you a bit of insight. Because that was a lot of words...
Also on the sub-subject of mold, 16 plants in a 4x4 is asking for trouble, I have my new 4x4 right beside me with 9 OSK and your 2 BD's, which are probably just mom's for now on, because I can't get them to fucking clone for some reason! Arghh! Not to mention they are HUGE. But I have room for more than 12 plants, but with my chance of mold I wont risk it. I think you may want to keep the same mind set. Mold is a common foe between us, we must remain vigilant!
But the rack idea is fantastic.
In other news: Opened up some new bottles of H&G A part and B part the other day. Have had them for 6 months or so, pop them open, and because of the way they are sealed they are fresh as fuck. Now they may not advertise "pH perfect" but it is. I put in the right amounts of everything, according to my PPM meter and my journal of what my plants like, and my pH was a perfect 5.8-5.9 bouncing right between the two, which is PERFECT because the instructions suggest pH 5.89, how the fuck do they get it this accurate? I don't know but it's amazing! I didn't have to do any pH adjusting before adding my tea, or any of my living beneficial additives. Even my old additives are still pH perfect. It has been a few days and pH has risen by 1 point, it now bounces between 5.9 and 6.0, usually by the end of the week it sits between 6.1 and 6.2, pretty snazzy, eh?
The problem is, once these liter bottles start getting old (Because they last forever) they lose this, and pH spins out of control and it takes me like 2 hours to get it stable... Sometimes more. But they stay pretty stable, I have never seen a pH over 6.4 after being ignored for a few days, and that is with the old stuff.
Bad news: The new stuff is watered down.
Good news: I have some extra A&B of their Aqua Flakes formula that was purchased right before the new stuff was put on the shelf, but I've opened it on my last/final DWC grow (not actually final, but as of right now), but still should be pretty stable.
I'm also going to post an article for you tomorrow morning when I'm not so lazy, but it's from the March issue of Maximum Yield, and it perfectly explains your theory of EC and pH being exactly related with your wild pH swings and all the other issues, including mold. "pH perfect" is in the name of the article, in case you get antsy and can't wait. But your original theory was correct about all the problems being related, and this explains why. I certainly learned a lot from it. I learn a lot in the bathroom, lol.
In other news, my SFV comes down in 7 days or less. Chopping a few days shy of 10 weeks, a little later than I wanted too. But I'm working out a completely new schedule, a few complications fucked up the perfect SOG I almost had. They are weaker now so I will have to fight mold, which I saw signs of today. I should actually treat that before I go to bed.... fuuuuck. I forgot I found that horrible powder-spotted leaf.
So that's everything I've been wanting to tell you this week. That, and I am going to have OSK clones soon, and I've seen them flowered out, possibly better than the SFV, by a good bit, I get to smoke it next week, my partner already flowered one out. And I just came up on some fem White Berry and Grape Krush seeds, pick of the litter, all 40 of them. And the Grape Krush is discontinued by DJ Short, and it is AMAZING.
Goodnight, I'm finishing my night with a bowl of Face Off I chopped down last month. Fucking mega dank super-headband effect.
phenob
Active Member
of course i read everything, otherwise pointless to be here. and good points too. I'm nowhere near interested in dark and stagnant for a week. was thinking about giving it a shot for up to maybe three days, but good point on the water temp. The bubblers going off I doubt make a whole lot of difference, at least when the pumps are still circulating. Remember I went most of ths grow with no bubbles and high res temp. 77f is where it's at now. My line of thought was to mostly starve them out, allowing in only a good dose of tea with a bit of bonus carb in it. Carbs make this even riskier, but with such a massive onslaught of beneficial microbes i think the risk of root rot, at least for the first 24-48 hours, would be minimal. Even if root rot developed, 48 hours isn't long enough for bad things to happen up top. Not unless there are already root problems going on before this, which who knows there very well could be. Another strike against this plan.
Remember though, this isn't to force more trichs. With snowstom i don't think we have any more room for trichs, it's as frosty as any bud i have ever seen 20 years of smoking weed. The drowning in darkness is to force the plant to begin converting sugar into alcohol internally, starting the fermentation process before the plant is even chopped. Remember curing = fermentation. Short of the long is, if this technique can be applied properly (you're right, whether it can in this situation is highly debatable), the bud can be cured for say 2 weeks with the same effect of having been cured for 6. something like that anyway.
The thread on this is excellent, let me see if I can find it. This drowning technique is far more applicable and easy to deal with in soil or similar grows, as flooding the bucket daily will definitely push out the oxygen. Can I really starve plants of oxygen by turning off the bubbers in hydro? No, or my lack of bubbles for this grow would have killed it. The bubblers and the pumps off though... even then i dont know if this would work in my setup because of that 2" or so of space between net pot and water level. Sure these are transport roots, but if we need to COMPLETELY starve oxygen out for this to work then it aint' gonna work, as i can't cut off that area of root from plenty of oxygen in the top of the bucket.
That first round in the cabinet that i did the 2 week flush got, i believe, 72 hours of darkness pre-chop. I thought i noticed extra frostiness afterwards but what do i know? I did not turn off bubbles though, which would have worked better than this setup since the cabinet does not recirculate.
Mold in particular I'm not too worried about. The humidity in there is always 40-50%, and when the light is not on the vent fan is always exhausting to draw in fresh air. The cabinet mold problem happened because I neglected to turn on the exhaust during the night, forcing humidity up into the **80%** range as plants transpired overnight. I saw mold happening right there before my eyes, but once I chopped the affected region and took care of the humidity during the night issue, no further problems. The mold on the finished product was also my bad for not chopping giant bud into smaller pieces, and also not running the drying cab right, all issues that are going to be completely re-addressed before this chop. So short of long again, I don't think mold would be an issue, not nearly the issue of root rot anyway. Especially now that I know what it looks like. I'm keeping a very, very close eye on the tent for what I know now to be very particular and glaring signs of impending mold problems, specifically the discoloration and squishy sugar leaves. No way will I miss that again.
will stfu about it, let me find that thread. give it a read then tell me what you think. you're right this has some red flags in my particular setup, but check out the overall idea behind it. i think you'll find it interesting, at least interesting enough to consider.
the rack .. 16 isn't going to fit. 1.5" short of space dammit, the 4x4 tent is actually just under 4 on a side, so the limit on this rack idea, at least with the wire shelving units i'm using, is going to be 8 with plenty of space to move around in or otherwise stick a non-racked bucket in.
Bucket sits on top in a shelf. Below that shelf is a small res, about 10 gal. 2 buckets per shelf unit, one res per two buckets, pretty much the same as a standard ebb and flow table type setup. 16 gallons res space per rack of two buckets.
I'd like to find a way to keep water level high in the bucket but still have bottom of bucket completely connected to lower res, so roots can grow into the lower res from the buckets. Sure this can be done, but i haven't figured out a method that I really like at this point so this facet waits until later.
Buckets are fed from the main res then drain into the smaller res. Smaller res fills up to a certain point then gravity drains back to main res. Main res has about 30 gallons, giving the system now, with 8 buckets, around 94 gallons total capacity. Not bad at all! We've reached my original goal of 10 gallons of res per plant. Sure we're cheating a bit but nevermind that.
Add a 55 gal drum to the setup, which drains into the main res via a float valve. This could be just used for clean water top off automatically, or we could pump sauce from the main res into the drum to circulate there too. With I'd imagine 40 gallons in the drum we're up above 130gals for the system.
What's the point of that?
Well, for starters, brewing a batch of flowering nutrients at week one and not having to give a damn about it for 5 or 6 weeks. With just under 50 gallons in the system now it's very low maintenance and handled 4+ weeks with no flush like a champ. Zero problems, zero ph issues. The larger the res, the longer it takes before the sauce gets to the point where we really need to flush it. In the long run, this could save a ton of nutrients and more importantly a ton of time. Maintenance on the sytems becomes watching for problems and that's about it. With a filter on a float valve to the drum, leading from the tap, we don't even need to sweat topping off anymore. Pretty damn close to automated without any real automation, just using complete res size overkill to give us plenty of wiggle room.
And this could be done in pieces. Don't need add the drum now, etc. Otherwise, it all works just as the setup does now. If power fails we have no flood issues, gravity puts everything where we want it. The weak link would be the float valve from drum to main res, but i think that's a weak link we can live with. Surely I could take some additional steps to mitigate any potential flood risk introduced by this.
So tonight i'll finish cutting up a rack and see if I can find the right size sub-res to fit the shelf. Couple of other little changes to a bucket and we'll have a prototype, which will explain all of this confusing nonsense with a picture or two.
i still don't see how any company can call a product "ph perfect" without a grower completely subscribing to that company's nutrient lineup. How can AN say my ph will be dead on if they don't know what other products i'm adding to the sauce? Sure if i stick to their nute line, but otherwise this can't make sense.
What is OSK? Let's hook up and make a trade. The hindu skunk vegging in the cab now is awesome. The things are bushing out and exploding faster than anything i've grown in there, all at an avg temp of around 84f. They seem to really thrive in a wamer environment. Bushing out more than anything i've ever LSTd or all the wacky shit i've tried. I topped them once, thats it, just once. Two in there, each has over 10 kick ass branches developing. I could not be more impressed with a plant at this stage, growing faster than anything i've ever seen.
One thing on mold too .. in the tea thread, Heisenberg talks about using the tea to spray on clones when first cut, and that this keeps away the fuzzy mold that his area is common for. This has been a big problem in my clone case as well, I lose 30% at least to that same fuzzy mold. I haven't tried it yet, but it could definitely work. And if this works, could we not use some variation on this technique to innoculate mature buds with just enough good guy microbes to help keep away that same fuzzy mold? Sure it's not a simple equation, but it might be worth investigating. If I can get away with a decent foliar of snowstorm this late in flower the the microbe tea shouldn't be too much more a risk. Unless there are microbes in there that might make things worse, something like that. Worth some thought anyway. Would sure be cool to have a spray that keeps mold off of mature buds.
Why the extra time on your SFV? If you've got mold creeping up is that not motivation to bring the chop forward a bit? School me yo.
Next questions for you will be on your drying / curing regimen for SFV. I will not allow what happened to the blue snooze harvest to happen again. The drying rack gets revamped, as probably does my thinking.
Remember though, this isn't to force more trichs. With snowstom i don't think we have any more room for trichs, it's as frosty as any bud i have ever seen 20 years of smoking weed. The drowning in darkness is to force the plant to begin converting sugar into alcohol internally, starting the fermentation process before the plant is even chopped. Remember curing = fermentation. Short of the long is, if this technique can be applied properly (you're right, whether it can in this situation is highly debatable), the bud can be cured for say 2 weeks with the same effect of having been cured for 6. something like that anyway.
The thread on this is excellent, let me see if I can find it. This drowning technique is far more applicable and easy to deal with in soil or similar grows, as flooding the bucket daily will definitely push out the oxygen. Can I really starve plants of oxygen by turning off the bubbers in hydro? No, or my lack of bubbles for this grow would have killed it. The bubblers and the pumps off though... even then i dont know if this would work in my setup because of that 2" or so of space between net pot and water level. Sure these are transport roots, but if we need to COMPLETELY starve oxygen out for this to work then it aint' gonna work, as i can't cut off that area of root from plenty of oxygen in the top of the bucket.
That first round in the cabinet that i did the 2 week flush got, i believe, 72 hours of darkness pre-chop. I thought i noticed extra frostiness afterwards but what do i know? I did not turn off bubbles though, which would have worked better than this setup since the cabinet does not recirculate.
Mold in particular I'm not too worried about. The humidity in there is always 40-50%, and when the light is not on the vent fan is always exhausting to draw in fresh air. The cabinet mold problem happened because I neglected to turn on the exhaust during the night, forcing humidity up into the **80%** range as plants transpired overnight. I saw mold happening right there before my eyes, but once I chopped the affected region and took care of the humidity during the night issue, no further problems. The mold on the finished product was also my bad for not chopping giant bud into smaller pieces, and also not running the drying cab right, all issues that are going to be completely re-addressed before this chop. So short of long again, I don't think mold would be an issue, not nearly the issue of root rot anyway. Especially now that I know what it looks like. I'm keeping a very, very close eye on the tent for what I know now to be very particular and glaring signs of impending mold problems, specifically the discoloration and squishy sugar leaves. No way will I miss that again.
will stfu about it, let me find that thread. give it a read then tell me what you think. you're right this has some red flags in my particular setup, but check out the overall idea behind it. i think you'll find it interesting, at least interesting enough to consider.
the rack .. 16 isn't going to fit. 1.5" short of space dammit, the 4x4 tent is actually just under 4 on a side, so the limit on this rack idea, at least with the wire shelving units i'm using, is going to be 8 with plenty of space to move around in or otherwise stick a non-racked bucket in.
Bucket sits on top in a shelf. Below that shelf is a small res, about 10 gal. 2 buckets per shelf unit, one res per two buckets, pretty much the same as a standard ebb and flow table type setup. 16 gallons res space per rack of two buckets.
I'd like to find a way to keep water level high in the bucket but still have bottom of bucket completely connected to lower res, so roots can grow into the lower res from the buckets. Sure this can be done, but i haven't figured out a method that I really like at this point so this facet waits until later.
Buckets are fed from the main res then drain into the smaller res. Smaller res fills up to a certain point then gravity drains back to main res. Main res has about 30 gallons, giving the system now, with 8 buckets, around 94 gallons total capacity. Not bad at all! We've reached my original goal of 10 gallons of res per plant. Sure we're cheating a bit but nevermind that.
Add a 55 gal drum to the setup, which drains into the main res via a float valve. This could be just used for clean water top off automatically, or we could pump sauce from the main res into the drum to circulate there too. With I'd imagine 40 gallons in the drum we're up above 130gals for the system.
What's the point of that?
Well, for starters, brewing a batch of flowering nutrients at week one and not having to give a damn about it for 5 or 6 weeks. With just under 50 gallons in the system now it's very low maintenance and handled 4+ weeks with no flush like a champ. Zero problems, zero ph issues. The larger the res, the longer it takes before the sauce gets to the point where we really need to flush it. In the long run, this could save a ton of nutrients and more importantly a ton of time. Maintenance on the sytems becomes watching for problems and that's about it. With a filter on a float valve to the drum, leading from the tap, we don't even need to sweat topping off anymore. Pretty damn close to automated without any real automation, just using complete res size overkill to give us plenty of wiggle room.
And this could be done in pieces. Don't need add the drum now, etc. Otherwise, it all works just as the setup does now. If power fails we have no flood issues, gravity puts everything where we want it. The weak link would be the float valve from drum to main res, but i think that's a weak link we can live with. Surely I could take some additional steps to mitigate any potential flood risk introduced by this.
So tonight i'll finish cutting up a rack and see if I can find the right size sub-res to fit the shelf. Couple of other little changes to a bucket and we'll have a prototype, which will explain all of this confusing nonsense with a picture or two.
i still don't see how any company can call a product "ph perfect" without a grower completely subscribing to that company's nutrient lineup. How can AN say my ph will be dead on if they don't know what other products i'm adding to the sauce? Sure if i stick to their nute line, but otherwise this can't make sense.
What is OSK? Let's hook up and make a trade. The hindu skunk vegging in the cab now is awesome. The things are bushing out and exploding faster than anything i've grown in there, all at an avg temp of around 84f. They seem to really thrive in a wamer environment. Bushing out more than anything i've ever LSTd or all the wacky shit i've tried. I topped them once, thats it, just once. Two in there, each has over 10 kick ass branches developing. I could not be more impressed with a plant at this stage, growing faster than anything i've ever seen.
One thing on mold too .. in the tea thread, Heisenberg talks about using the tea to spray on clones when first cut, and that this keeps away the fuzzy mold that his area is common for. This has been a big problem in my clone case as well, I lose 30% at least to that same fuzzy mold. I haven't tried it yet, but it could definitely work. And if this works, could we not use some variation on this technique to innoculate mature buds with just enough good guy microbes to help keep away that same fuzzy mold? Sure it's not a simple equation, but it might be worth investigating. If I can get away with a decent foliar of snowstorm this late in flower the the microbe tea shouldn't be too much more a risk. Unless there are microbes in there that might make things worse, something like that. Worth some thought anyway. Would sure be cool to have a spray that keeps mold off of mature buds.
Why the extra time on your SFV? If you've got mold creeping up is that not motivation to bring the chop forward a bit? School me yo.
Next questions for you will be on your drying / curing regimen for SFV. I will not allow what happened to the blue snooze harvest to happen again. The drying rack gets revamped, as probably does my thinking.