Colorado Med Growers, Unite

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nemon

Active Member
Hey all,

Wow!!This is great!!

Hello From The Western Slope/Glenwood Springs.

Opening a New Medical Marijuana Dispensary On January 25th, 2010

Looking for vendors to supply my MMJ Dispensary.

Email me gemmllc@gmail.com

Thanks
 
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DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
growman09 said:
yea tomorrow got to run a vent andd transplant another babie some busy work oh and im gonna clean my room not real dirty but dont wanna let it get dirty
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Running vents is always fun. lol I always run into last minute changes along the way.

Gotta stay on top of cleaning too. I let my room go for a month before I cleaned it last week. What a mess, didn't even realize how bad it had gotten. I'm gonna start cleaning it once a week. Soo many nooks & crannies in there.

I can't wait till I get a whole bedroom to use and can build my own grow closets with no nooks or crannies, and plenty of room so I don't have to reach over and around stuff. Seymour Buds has a tape on it, I'll probably get it in order to get some new ideas. Looked like he had a pretty nifty little set up in the previews.

If you really want to keep busy, try cloning a bunch at the same time you're growing. I spend as much time with my clones as I do with my moms & lady bugs.
 
doogleef

doogleef

Well-Known Member
DannyGreenEyes said:
Not sure what the ones in the FF do, but the ones from the MYKEs also helps with colonization which creates larger roots in the same square inch/foot of soil.
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Sounds like marketing fluff to me. What is it you think that creates those roots? Thats right, the plant. Fungus does not create roots. Feed the plant it will make roots. Pretty simple. If you want nice fibrous roots look into smart pots or copper hydroxide treated pots:leaf:
 
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DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
Nemon, it's hard work contrary to what the politicians would have eveyone beleive. lol, but it's well worth it in the end.

Hey everyone, just took measurements when I was in there doing some watering. The biggest is the OG Blueberry that I think is really a Mendocino County Purp at 25", she's one of the two that I transplanted. The smallest is the other OG Blueberry at 19". Now you know why I'm so convinced that one isn't an OG Blueberry.

The two opiums are 22" & 24". The two Durban Poisons are 21" & 22", and the NY Diesel is 22".

I didn't measure the clones, but they're really taking off too. And I think the Purple Passion has passed the 6" mark.

Can't wait till I transplant the rest into the 10 gallon containers. I'll keep you updated.
 
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DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
doogleef said:
Sounds like marketing fluff to me. What is it you think that creates those roots? Thats right, the plant. Fungus does not create roots. Feed the plant it will make roots. Pretty simple. If you want nice fibrous roots look into smart pots or copper hydroxide treated pots:leaf:
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My plants reaching 2ft in less than 9 weeks after all the growth limiting problems I had is a testament to Mycorrhiza. But there are several different types. The ones sold at the grow stores boasting 2,000 + spores per gram is a come on, it's over priced crap. But the ones made for transplanting trees & shrubs that you can find at the nurseries with 7 spores per gram is good shit. That's the stuff that the nurseries themselves use, not to mention farmers, botonists, and horticulturists.

Here's a simple definition on Wikipedia (no advertising here) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mycorrhiza There are links at the bottom that also make good & more in depth reading. This is the forms of Mycorrhiza that farmers & horticulturists have been using for years.

These pics are from a site advertising their own regiment. They sell to farmers, botonists, horticulturers, etc.... I'll be trying their line when I get enough cash to play with and I'll be doing side by side comparisons.
 

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doogleef

doogleef

Well-Known Member
Again, these things are for breaking down organic compounds into usable salts. That's it. More usable salts faster means larger roots and plants. SURPRISE!. :lol:

Fungus doe not create roots. Let's stick to the science.
 
Dr. VonDank

Dr. VonDank

Active Member
FFOF--is a good soil and should be fine for fully rooted clones, It workes very well as a stand alone but adding perlite helps loosing it up and speeds root growth. When I ran the FFOF I mixed it with 50% small perlite(large green bag). I added 1" of big chunk perlite to the bottom of pots/grow bags/buckets for extra drainage. I used plain R/O for the first 2 weeks then started to feed with 1ml/gal roots excell---3ml/gal FF grow big----5ml cal mag plus with every feed. At the end of week 4 in veg I added 1 tbs of dolomite granular/gal of FFOF.( the FFOF will only hold its buffered PH in the 6 to 6.5 range for 3 to 5 weeks so the added dolomite keeps things nice and stabilized plus provides the additional ca/mg). The above veg cycle provided very healthy plants with a massive white root system before they were moved to flowering.
 
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DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
doogleef said:
Again, these things are for breaking down organic compounds into usable salts. That's it. More usable salts faster means larger roots and plants. SURPRISE!. :lol:

Fungus doe not create roots. Let's stick to the science.
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There are links to published scientific studies at the bottom of the Wiki explanation. I am sticking to science.

The Mycorrhiza doesn't create the roots, it does help the plant absorb everything faster (yes, water too. I can attest to that), but it also helps with better colonization. Kind of like a forman at a construction site doing a better job than the last foreman (best definition I can come up with).

I'm not sure how it helps the roots absorb more of everything. I haven't done enough research to answer that yet. But as I understand it salts build up when there's too much of the nutes for the plant to absorb (when nute burns occur), and a build up of salts is what causes lock outs. I'm not really sure if the build up of salts are a bi-product of the nute burns, or if the left over salts are simply what the plant can't absorb causing the build up.

All I can tell you for sure is with all the problems I've had (soil that was too hot causing occasional nute burns, underwatering, 3 infestations, heat problems, pH problems & 1 fluctuation, no folliage feeding due to the 24/0 light scedule, etc...) I would be lucky to have 16" plants right now without the Mycorrhiza. And I didn't even treat for the first time till I was into the 3rd week.

My next grow I'll treat from day 1 and as long as I have less problems, which I probably will, I should have close to 3ft plants by the 8th week. I may also need 15 or 20 gallon planters as well, but the extra yeild should be worth the trouble.
 
riddleme

riddleme

Well-Known Member
+1 on soilless and chemicals, there is no BETTER way

still spreadin rep Doog will have to come back to give ya some

and Denver City Council passed the stupid new rules/regulations even though Cory thought they wouldn't, wonder if he will go to court over it?
 
dakin3d

dakin3d

Well-Known Member
doogleef said:
I wanna note here that clones and seedlings are not the same thing. Clones (once well rooted) are fully mature plants, just small. Not seedlings. Well rooted clones can take a "full strength" feed right away. I've dropped lots of rooted clones right into 2.0EC nute solution with no problems at all.

Good call on the Happy Frog. There are cheaper commercial soils that work just fine but FF makes good dirt and of their line frog is my favorite.
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Hey bro,

I was curious is your current setup hydro or soil, or both? 2.0EC is quite the strength for a clone. May I ask what strain that was, if you recall? Also, what scale is your ppm meter on? And do you measure KCl or NaCl? What should a person be measuring? This has been on my mind for a while now as my EC/TDS/PPM meter will read both, in addition to 420 (coincidence...?)? I haven't had time research on my own yet.

Regarding the Happy Frog... I used this soil on my first grow, so I can't tell you much, but I do know that it does NOT have good draining properties, nor well aerated. So, as someone previously stated, it may be good for seedlings, however I would recommend adding some addtl perlite if using in all stages throughout grow. (This is all based on assumption that you are growing indoors)

Thanks in advance, bro
 
Arvada

Arvada

Member
I am ready to germinate some seeds in GH Rapid Rooter tray. When the plugs root, I plan to plant in soil, indoors, in smart pot.
I have 2 gal and 5 gal sizes. Also have 16 oz beverage cups.
I purchased FF Ocean Floor only.
Question: Will that be OK , or should I use a different soil in early stages? Should I modify the FFOF soil? (Maybe cut down with more perlite?)
 
doogleef

doogleef

Well-Known Member
dakin3d said:
Hey bro,

I was curious is your current setup hydro or soil, or both? 2.0EC is quite the strength for a clone.
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Both

May I ask what strain that was, if you recall?
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All of em. Even sativas will handle bloom ferts at 2.0EC or 1000ppm NaCL (@.5). I should note that this is 2.0EC BLOOM FERT so low Nitrogen. 2.0EC of a grow fert is a lil too hot period in my book.



Regarding the Happy Frog... I used this soil on my first grow, so I can't tell you much, but I do know that it does NOT have good draining properties, nor well aerated. So, as someone previously stated, it may be good for seedlings, however I would recommend adding some addtl perlite if using in all stages throughout grow. (This is all based on assumption that you are growing indoors
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)

You can use perlite or coco to amend it for better drainage.

Thanks in advance, bro
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No wuckin' furries :lol:
 
Dr. VonDank

Dr. VonDank

Active Member
DannyGreenEyes said:
There are links to published scientific studies at the bottom of the Wiki explanation. I am sticking to science.

The Mycorrhiza doesn't create the roots, it does help the plant absorb everything faster (yes, water too. I can attest to that), but it also helps with better colonization. Kind of like a forman at a construction site doing a better job than the last foreman (best definition I can come up with).

I'm not sure how it helps the roots absorb more of everything. I haven't done enough research to answer that yet. But as I understand it salts build up when there's too much of the nutes for the plant to absorb (when nute burns occur), and a build up of salts is what causes lock outs. I'm not really sure if the build up of salts are a bi-product of the nute burns, or if the left over salts are simply what the plant can't absorb causing the build up.

All I can tell you for sure is with all the problems I've had (soil that was too hot causing occasional nute burns, underwatering, 3 infestations, heat problems, pH problems & 1 fluctuation, no folliage feeding due to the 24/0 light scedule, etc...) I would be lucky to have 16" plants right now without the Mycorrhiza. And I didn't even treat for the first time till I was into the 3rd week.

My next grow I'll treat from day 1 and as long as I have less problems, which I probably will, I should have close to 3ft plants by the 8th week. I may also need 15 or 20 gallon planters as well, but the extra yeild should be worth the trouble.
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Beneficial mycorrhiza attach to the roots. They streach out and help with the assimilation of nutrients and h20. Mycorrhiza helps the plants to uptake phosphorus more readily so less in your mix is more. Mycorrhiza will give you a larger root mass faster. but does not like chemicals(same goes for most beneficials). Beneficials love humic acid and organic sugars. lower nutrient concentrations from organic sources work best with beneficials. Bigger root mass equals bigger buds period. If you run hydro you should stay away from beneficials or any organic compounds. As Doog would say---"use chemicals"--lol.
 
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DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
Dr. VonDank said:
Beneficial mycorrhiza attach to the roots. They streach out and help with the assimilation of nutrients and h20. Mycorrhiza helps the plants to uptake phosphorus more readily so less in your mix is more. Mycorrhiza will give you a larger root mass faster. but does not like chemicals(same goes for most beneficials). Beneficials love humic acid and organic sugars. lower nutrient concentrations from organic sources work best with beneficials. Bigger root mass equals bigger buds period. If you run hydro you should stay away from beneficials or any organic compounds. As Doog would say---"use chemicals"--lol.
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Yeah, the micro organisms will clog up hydro grow & feed lines. And I'm not sure if they can live in the water. Didn't know about them not liking chemical nutes though. Thanks for that info, +rep

I was going to buy Dyna-Gro on my next grow because it's the only fert I've found with all the minor nutes. But it's chemical based so I guess I can't use it if I'm treating the roots.

I'll have to keep looking for an organic nute with the minor nutes that my current ferts don't have. You wouldn't know of an organic fertilizer that would have sulfur, Calcium, & Molybdenum, would you?
 
riddleme

riddleme

Well-Known Member
DannyGreenEyes said:
Yeah, the micro organisms will clog up hydro grow & feed lines. And I'm not sure if they can live in the water. Didn't know about them not liking chemical nutes though. Thanks for that info, +rep

I was going to buy Dyna-Gro on my next grow because it's the only fert I've found with all the minor nutes. But it's chemical based so I guess I can't use it if I'm treating the roots.

I'll have to keep looking for an organic nute with the minor nutes that my current ferts don't have. You wouldn't know of an organic fertilizer that would have sulfur, Calcium, & Molybdenum, would you?
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You really should just go chemical, organic does not have as much control in soil, if your stuck on organic you should go hydro

I just fed this girl DynaGro, she loved it

plus the pic is from the new camera I got today
 
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DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
riddleme said:
You really should just go chemical, organic does not have as much control in soil, if your stuck on organic you should go hydro

I just fed this girl DynaGro, she loved it

plus the pic is from the new camera I got today
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Nice bud, but I'm sticking with soil dude.

It tastes better, and I think I can keep up with a hydro grow as long as I treat the roots. Just wait till you see my next grow, I'll have 2 1/2' to 3' plants after 8 weeks of veg.

I wish I could use dyna-gro though. It's gonna be a bitch finding an organic nute with Sulfur, Calcium, & Molybdenum.
 
riddleme

riddleme

Well-Known Member
DannyGreenEyes said:
Nice bud, but I'm sticking with soil dude.

It tastes better, and I think I can keep up with a hydro grow as long as I treat the roots. Just wait till you see my next grow, I'll have 2 1/2' to 3' plants after 8 weeks of veg.

I wish I could use dyna-gro though. It's gonna be a bitch finding an organic nute with Sulfur, Calcium, & Molybdenum.
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I'm all about soil, Just not organic

you really should consider going chemical, UB has a thread on this that says best used in soilless mixes NOT ORGANIC

check it here
https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/182500-mycorrhizal-fungi-applications-cannabis-caveats.html

and we all know UB is a chem guy as well
 
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