Okay i thought you meant a booster...i'll pick one up is there any particular brand you would recommend?
Thanks mate
Heat/Humidity Problems Help!!
- Thread starter Chase2012
- Start date
Okay i thought you meant a booster...i'll pick one up is there any particular brand you would recommend?
Thanks mate
Okay cool, its only the Purple haze thats drooping btw now' i'll stick to your suggestion, as it appears
red stem is indicitive of nutrient defiency...weird thing is its only red on purple haze right now other two appear to be growing healthier...however i'm thinking they have a bit of heat stress (leaf spikes a tiny bit pointing up although they look healthy) so i've raised light and will monitor this...
Let me know if you have more on this man..
Cheers..
I feel like i have no choice mate...No matter what i do temperature is not dropping below 29c
and plants are showing signs of heat/light stress yellow bits on leaves and edges of leave tips..or am i mistaken that is a deficiency? i'm on the lower dosage of nutes now although..i had fed them too much for initial dosage after following the container directions..which i've read since that the manufactorers have a tendency to over direct the levels!!
jondamon
Well-Known Member
Keeping the room cool with your tent in will help to keep temps lower.
Heat stress begins with leaves curling up from the outer edges making a canoe look to the leaves.
Where are you testing the temps?
if your temp sensor is in direct light from the bulb then it could be getting radiant heat causing a false reading. Take your temps in 2 places. The side wall of your tent, this will give you the ambient temp in the tent. And also just under the canopy out of direct light.
Also placing your ballast as far away from the tent as you can will help to stop warm air being drawn in. I hope your ballast is not inside the tent as this is adding extra heat you could do without.
J
Heat stress begins with leaves curling up from the outer edges making a canoe look to the leaves.
Where are you testing the temps?
if your temp sensor is in direct light from the bulb then it could be getting radiant heat causing a false reading. Take your temps in 2 places. The side wall of your tent, this will give you the ambient temp in the tent. And also just under the canopy out of direct light.
Also placing your ballast as far away from the tent as you can will help to stop warm air being drawn in. I hope your ballast is not inside the tent as this is adding extra heat you could do without.
J
Nizza
Well-Known Member
Do you take advantage of cooler night temperatures? there is also more Co2 available in the air at night. A low air intake and high exhaust does the best work because cool air settles and warm air rises. I use a cheap 15$ bathroom fan component as exhaust then a 5"desk fan on intake. i did that because when i close my door the exhaust has trouble and now with another fan pushing it it isn't as bad
SpectatorFernFirm
Active Member
I had the EXACT problem!!! All I did was put ducting to my exhaust and in a stealthy way have it pointing out an open window and now the room no longer gets hot. I ALSO put a small computer fan to give me an intake (soon upgrading to booster fan) and another oscillating fan inside. All together I went from 95- 104F to 78-84 tops. I'm changing from that $10 computer fan to a $25 4" booster fan and changing the fan in the tent to a round one. I have one of those expensive stand up ones and it SUX!!! I have cheap 12" round one in veg room and that works MUCH better. So hopefully same results in bloom area. Oh and the most important part was that I ran my inline fan and can carbon filter ( which is my exhaust) thru my light. I have a cool tube 600watt HPS. making the ducting go thru there helped big time. I don't even have much room to work with complete 90 degree bends in ducting that at the moment I can't change but still brought me down almost 20 DEGREES!!! Right now is hottest part of day and it's at 82 at top of plants and bottom part at 78-79 F. So with little to no money I helped the problem big time. Oh also at first I had ducting just in room and that almost made it worse it wasn't till I made hot air go outside that temps got better.
Yeah i was considering using an extra desk fan as an intake to try and lower the temp as although my light is around 20'' away as Jondamon suggested they are suffering from a little upward leave curl...my exhaust fan is a 5 or 6inch with original carbon filter...exactly same problem though when tent door is shut its too high however when its slighty open its puttting into the correct bracket with ideal humidty...however defeats the object of the carbon filter though when they start to stink out my gaff!!
Cheers Pal,The ballast is far away from the setup...i'll be measuring no then directly on top of the canopy but now it is around 4-5 inches from the floor but directly below the light..I'll post some pics now so you can have a look..
View attachment 2419406View attachment 2419407View attachment 2419408 They seem to have picked up now 
. The HG (far left) looks a bit yellow but that was just the camera shot..The only problem i have now is the purple haze (far right) It's growth is a bit slower and as you can see its wilty slighty, this is because i was over watering mate, since cutting back its picking back up which is great news..(thanks for all your help again Jondamon) 
. The HG (far left) looks a bit yellow but that was just the camera shot..The only problem i have now is the purple haze (far right) It's growth is a bit slower and as you can see its wilty slighty, this is because i was over watering mate, since cutting back its picking back up which is great news..(thanks for all your help again Jondamon)
jondamon
Well-Known Member
Looking good chase.
What size pots do you have for later?
I would recommend at least 11L pots if you plan on flowering in the next 2weeks.
Ideally you want around 20L pots. With coco being a soiless medium you don't have to go rediculous on pot size like you would for soil. If you were in soil I would be saying 40L pots.
J
What size pots do you have for later?
I would recommend at least 11L pots if you plan on flowering in the next 2weeks.
Ideally you want around 20L pots. With coco being a soiless medium you don't have to go rediculous on pot size like you would for soil. If you were in soil I would be saying 40L pots.
J
MisterSosa
Member
Exhaust should be bigger than your intake and it should be running all the time.
do you think it could be a PH issue aside from lack of nutes? ill pick up a kit on tuesday. someone said that Coco Ph fluctuates a lot, especially when you leave it to dry out a lot between waterings. I am allowing it to get like that as didnt want to overwater...their drinking lots though..normally water every 2 days..im feeding about 2-3ml so couldnt stick to your recommendations but im picking up a exact measuring spoon tuesday also
jondamon
Well-Known Member
It's not ideal to allow the coco to dry out. 50% weight loss in the pot is sufficient to water again.
Add slightly more nutes than last time on your next water.
I can grow in coco without ever testing pH. However EC is the one I always watch.
Just so you know its almost impossible to overwater in coco.
J
Add slightly more nutes than last time on your next water.
I can grow in coco without ever testing pH. However EC is the one I always watch.
Just so you know its almost impossible to overwater in coco.
J
Mate is it normal for the stems too be so thick at and early stage. I know this is generally a sign of a healthy plant, but ive never seen anything like it, being that the plants are so short. They do not seem to be growing upwards, just quite bushy. Its Blueberry and Himalean Gold strains (or am i being impatient and the slow upward growth is a good thing) on the Blueberry the stem is over 1cm thick and its only about 9'' tall!!
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