Lockdowns don't work.

Rob Roy

Rob Roy

Well-Known Member
hillbill said:
Vaccines help us develop immunity like Smallpox and Polio.

Unless one believes in human sacrifice.
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So are you saying that people don't develop immunities other ways ?

That all vaccines are safe? Are you willing to lock people down if there is no known vaccine ?

Are you saying that you'd be okay locking down a neighbor who'd prefer not to take a vaccine ?

Human sacrifice? There's no need to bring government caused wars and terms like "collateral damage" into this discussion.
 
DIY-HP-LED

DIY-HP-LED

Well-Known Member
Budley Doright said:
Speaking of gardens I want to nuke mine this spring as it’s getting over run with weeds (the bad ones). Any thoughts out there about how to safely do this and still plant veggies :(.
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Rent a rototiller and tear it up is the best way, I don't know of any chemical solutions that I would trust. Covering it with a tarp in spring will warm it up while keeping the weeds down and helps give ya an early start.

I've got 4 clones getting ready under lights to go outside in june and will use 10 gal grow bags. I've got a nice sunny spot in front of the pine trees on the north side of the backyard and it gets many hours of direct sunlight a day. I'm gonna build a pole frame around the garden, both to induce flowering in mid july with a tarp, and to keep it warm in the fall with some poly pulled over it on cold autumn days and nights.
 
Fogdog

Fogdog

Well-Known Member
Budley Doright said:
Speaking of gardens I want to nuke mine this spring as it’s getting over run with weeds (the bad ones). Any thoughts out there about how to safely do this and still plant veggies :(.
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I know you said "I want to nuke it" and here I am with a "don't do that". I simply don't see the need for a homeowner to use them.

Suggest re-planning the garden so that it's small enough to care for without sprays. If you plant closely enough and apply a thick layer of mulch, not much weeding is needed. Also mycorhizzal fungi that are native to most un-nuked soils help cut down on the amount of water needed. I don't need to irrigate most of my vegetables. In a 4-foot by 12 foot bed, I put up 6 cases of canned tomatoes and had plenty of fresh during the summer. My total cost was about 6 bucks-worth of a blend of ground up cotton seed, feathers, and other stuff that fed the microbes who, in turn, fed the plants. Zero irrigation and we have dry summers where I live.

I'm not saying sprays don't work, just that they aren't necessary. They are very hard on soil microbes that, if allowed to live, can provide most of the nutrients your plants need and control many common diseases. Once you go down the path of spraying "weed killers", all the other evils of conventional farming become necessary. Spray for diseases, spray for bugs, salts for nutrients. To me all that seems more work than organic methods.
 
Fogdog

Fogdog

Well-Known Member
DIY-HP-LED said:
Rent a rototiller and tear it up is the best way, I don't know of any chemical solutions that I would trust. Covering it with a tarp in spring will warm it up while keeping the weeds down and helps give ya an early start.

I've got 4 clones getting ready under lights to go outside in june and will use 10 gal grow bags. I've got a nice sunny spot in front of the pine trees on the north side of the backyard and it gets many hours of direct sunlight a day. I'm gonna build a pole frame around the garden, both to induce flowering in mid july with a tarp, and to keep it warm in the fall with some poly pulled over it on cold autumn days and nights.
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Nope, rototillers are a thing of the past. A soil fork is the better tool. Just loosen the soil. Don't till the soil, it kills beneficial microbes and the soil becomes depleted.

1588962250245.png

They cost like 25 bucks.
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Fogdog said:
I know you said "I want to nuke it" and here I am with a "don't do that". I simply don't see the need for a homeowner to use them.

Suggest re-planning the garden so that it's small enough to care for without sprays. If you plant closely enough and apply a thick layer of mulch, not much weeding is needed. Also mycorhizzal fungi that are native to most un-nuked soils help cut down on the amount of water needed. I don't need to irrigate most of my vegetables. In a 4-foot by 12 foot bed, I put up 6 cases of canned tomatoes and had plenty of fresh during the summer. My total cost was about 6 bucks-worth of a blend of ground up cotton seed, feathers, and other stuff that fed the microbes who, in turn, fed the plants. Zero irrigation and we have dry summers where I live.

I'm not saying sprays don't work, just that they aren't necessary. They are very hard on soil microbes that, if allowed to live, can provide most of the nutrients your plants need and control many common diseases. Once you go down the path of spraying "weed killers", all the other evils of conventional farming become necessary. Spray for diseases, spray for bugs, salts for nutrients. To me all that seems more work than organic methods.
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I was looking at corn gluten actually and I am picking up a load or two of compost. But yes I’ll just leave it and see how the compost works. All of my fields are certified organic used for organic dairy cattle feed so I should practice that in the garden I guess lol. It’s not really my garden, it’s hers lol. I have my own ;).
 
Fogdog

Fogdog

Well-Known Member
hanimmal said:
I like the letdown some cardboard and pop up a quick raised bed over it. No real reason to dig.
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Yep, that works too. Once the bed is established using the method you describe, keep adding mulch (compost is best but also wood chips if a ready supply of compost isn't available). Once a year, loosen the soil with a fork.

I got one of these earlier this year:

1588967195771.png

I have 8 beds, total of 800 sq ft. The fork loosens the soil and makes weeding easy (relative to without a fork). Just rake the top soil smooth along with some organic food for the soil and you are ready to go. The above is called a broadfork but a conventional spading fork works too. I got tired of replacing handles on the spading fork and am happy with the Meadow Creature broadfork. It wasn't cheap but is easier than the spading fork and quicker.
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
DIY-HP-LED said:
Rent a rototiller and tear it up is the best way, I don't know of any chemical solutions that I would trust. Covering it with a tarp in spring will warm it up while keeping the weeds down and helps give ya an early start.

I've got 4 clones getting ready under lights to go outside in june and will use 10 gal grow bags. I've got a nice sunny spot in front of the pine trees on the north side of the backyard and it gets many hours of direct sunlight a day. I'm gonna build a pole frame around the garden, both to induce flowering in mid july with a tarp, and to keep it warm in the fall with some poly pulled over it on cold autumn days and nights.
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I own a couple of rototillers lol. I planted my first crop at 14 using a rototiller to work up enough for 50 plants......I started and finished early in life ;).
 
Fogdog

Fogdog

Well-Known Member
Budley Doright said:
I was looking at corn gluten actually and I am picking up a load or two of compost. But yes I’ll just leave it and see how the compost works. All of my fields are certified organic used for organic dairy cattle feed so I should practice that in the garden I guess lol. It’s not really my garden, it’s hers lol. I have my own ;).
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Sounds like a nice place you have there Budley.
 
Dr.Amber Trichome

Dr.Amber Trichome

Well-Known Member
rkymtnman said:
you misunderstood: run your WF drain to waste. i've been doing mine that way for about 2 years. one feed per day til runoff.
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I have no idea what your talking about. . I fill her 2 gallon bucket and she eats all the food in less then 24 hours. There is nothing to drain or waste or run off. I flush her with clean water to knock off any residual periodically . She is not complaining. I never Check PH ever. And I will never not check PPMs. My only isssue would be if I need to leave for days at a time . If I do I have a back up 8 gallon Rez I can hook up for that short period of time to feed her .
 
hanimmal

hanimmal

Well-Known Member
Fogdog said:
Yep, that works too. Once the bed is established using the method you describe, keep adding mulch (compost is best but also wood chips if a ready supply of compost isn't available). Once a year, loosen the soil with a fork.

I got one of these earlier this year:

View attachment 4559405

I have 8 beds, total of 800 sq ft. The fork loosens the soil and makes weeding easy (relative to without a fork). Just rake the top soil smooth along with some organic food for the soil and you are ready to go. The above is called a broadfork but a conventional spading fork works too. I got tired of replacing handles on the spading fork and am happy with the Meadow Creature broadfork. It wasn't cheap but is easier than the spading fork and quicker.
Click to expand...
I need to get a nice scythe.

I really like this guys videos on gardening:
 
Dr.Amber Trichome

Dr.Amber Trichome

Well-Known Member
Budley Doright said:
Something tells me I would be in front :(. Honestly I hate gardening and always figured I was better at growing pot and buying veggies. I was the kid out weeding and digging up potatoes and onions with a sad face so nope not liking the gardening lol. House plants and pot yay :).
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I hate gardening more then you. I never have any other plant like a house plant or any living creature pet living thing in my home except for my one marijuana plant and even that’s a bit much of a burden. At least I know it’s life is only a bit over 3 months , by that time I’m completely exhausted by the entire process.
 
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