StreetRider
Active Member
I do not know the minimum, but idea range is 5000 - 8500 lumens or there abouts. You can hit them with more lumens if you move the light on a mover.
NooB Advice
- Thread starter riddleme
- Start date
I do not know the minimum, but idea range is 5000 - 8500 lumens or there abouts. You can hit them with more lumens if you move the light on a mover.
jumboSWISHER
Well-Known Member
alright man =) i jus gotta change something up within a week or so. my closet has a slanted wall and comes to a peak at the ceiling, and my reflector is to big to raise any more, got about 3 inches till im touching the bulbs, and im startn ta get a bit of heat stress on a few top leaves, but i jus set my fan up blowing on the lights so she'll b good fora week or soBoy are you in for a thrill
just let it be there will be time to tweak things in a day or two
jumboSWISHER
Well-Known Member
so riddleme, iv read ur goin loco grow a few times and im pretty interested in that bud topping thing u tried. how has that been workin for ya?
riddleme
Well-Known Member
Won't know till the end for sure but those 2 buds are fatter and they both grew 4 new budsites out of the top (like fimming) I talked about in the journal and said that I believe it works
bigman4270
Well-Known Member
Well if you looked at my first grow thread, than you know it did not go as planned. Finale put them out of there misery and germinated another 4 seeds. At the time I was still working on the soil mix so they germ'ed good but after the first watering the soil real got compacted. Long story short, water stress again. stunted growth yellowed but didn't die. Flushed em
and it actually helped one of them. Unfortunately he mutated and is pre-sexing, its a male I am pretty sure because he has to grape like sack's developing that I can't get at pic of. And he is only 28 days old and on 18/6 cycle. Talk about unstable genetic? Not sure what the hell.
Trans planted, watered, let dry to lift, watered with 1/4 strength food and they are starting to gain actually growth.
They are like little Bonsai trees. Gonna approach this with what I learned in this thread and see where it goes.
Oh ya, pic 3 is the male. If you look at the center of the pic you see a dark spot? That is a nut sack!
Man I love this crap.
Peace
Big
and it actually helped one of them. Unfortunately he mutated and is pre-sexing, its a male I am pretty sure because he has to grape like sack's developing that I can't get at pic of. And he is only 28 days old and on 18/6 cycle. Talk about unstable genetic? Not sure what the hell. Trans planted, watered, let dry to lift, watered with 1/4 strength food and they are starting to gain actually growth.
They are like little Bonsai trees. Gonna approach this with what I learned in this thread and see where it goes.
Oh ya, pic 3 is the male. If you look at the center of the pic you see a dark spot? That is a nut sack!
Man I love this crap.
Peace
Big
Attachments
prebs
Well-Known Member
hey riddleme, sorry man Ive been so busy with work and everything I didnt have time to research all the things but this is and was a great thread to follow. I did however read over the questions and answers from before so thanks for making this. But Im still here for the last part
goofygolfer
Well-Known Member
Why is the minimum ammount of lumens suggested 3000 per plant?
as posted by roseman
Light seen and perceived with the human eye is measured in Lumens. There is an ideal amount of lumens for growing and a minimum amount of required lumens. The very minimum amount of light required for smaller sized plants grown is around 3000 lumens per square foot. Let me put emphasis on "minimum amount" of light. However, that's not 100% exactly accurate, since although you may have a 10,000 lumen light, the amount of light that reaches the plant varies with the distance between the light and plants, and the reflectivity of the grow area. The ideal amount is somewhere around 7000-10,000 lumens per square foot for average sized plants. As long as the plants do not show burn, as much light can be used as you want to use. (Note, the sun produces about 10,000 lumens per square foot, on a sunny mid summer day).
answer ? hopefully
Lighting Fun
by "Roger S. Miller" <rgrmill/rt66.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Jun 1998
>Randall states that blue light produces bushy, short plants, something I
>have read many times in the past. Thinking that I would like my plants to
>have this growth ectect .....
watts vs. lumens
by Wright Huntley <huntley1/home.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999
an excerpt
> Lumens is a measure of what comes out as light ( candela/steradian) and thus
> better, but far from good enough
This statement is quite misleading, and lies at the heart of a lot of the
misinformation we encounter here on the APD. Lumen is a psychophysical term that
describes the way *humans* perceive optical radiation. Candela is a member of
that same photometric system. They are defined in terms of the human observer,
and not the source radiation. They tell you next to nothing about what actually
"comes out."
Here in APD we define light in a much broader sense, usually. Lumens *are* great
for predicting how bright the light will "look." Too many lumens per Watt always
cheats the plants out of energy *they* need, for the manufacturers of "cool
white" tubes have gotten really very good at not wasting red and blue light we
don't see well, anyway.
Red and blue are about 20% of the output of a very high lumens/Watt tube.
Unfortunately they are about 80% of the photosynthetically active spectrum of
our plants. That's why plants *can* grow well under "cool white" lights. You
just may need several times as many Watts of it.
Wright
so my anwser in laymens terms
it was suggested for smaller plants . so not to dry or bake the little darlings
plants dont see light we do
if prroper light spectrum is used its more efficient
as posted by roseman
Light seen and perceived with the human eye is measured in Lumens. There is an ideal amount of lumens for growing and a minimum amount of required lumens. The very minimum amount of light required for smaller sized plants grown is around 3000 lumens per square foot. Let me put emphasis on "minimum amount" of light. However, that's not 100% exactly accurate, since although you may have a 10,000 lumen light, the amount of light that reaches the plant varies with the distance between the light and plants, and the reflectivity of the grow area. The ideal amount is somewhere around 7000-10,000 lumens per square foot for average sized plants. As long as the plants do not show burn, as much light can be used as you want to use. (Note, the sun produces about 10,000 lumens per square foot, on a sunny mid summer day).
answer ? hopefully
Lighting Fun
by "Roger S. Miller" <rgrmill/rt66.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Jun 1998
>Randall states that blue light produces bushy, short plants, something I
>have read many times in the past. Thinking that I would like my plants to
>have this growth ectect .....
watts vs. lumens
by Wright Huntley <huntley1/home.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999
an excerpt
> Lumens is a measure of what comes out as light ( candela/steradian) and thus
> better, but far from good enough
This statement is quite misleading, and lies at the heart of a lot of the
misinformation we encounter here on the APD. Lumen is a psychophysical term that
describes the way *humans* perceive optical radiation. Candela is a member of
that same photometric system. They are defined in terms of the human observer,
and not the source radiation. They tell you next to nothing about what actually
"comes out."
Here in APD we define light in a much broader sense, usually. Lumens *are* great
for predicting how bright the light will "look." Too many lumens per Watt always
cheats the plants out of energy *they* need, for the manufacturers of "cool
white" tubes have gotten really very good at not wasting red and blue light we
don't see well, anyway.
Red and blue are about 20% of the output of a very high lumens/Watt tube.
Unfortunately they are about 80% of the photosynthetically active spectrum of
our plants. That's why plants *can* grow well under "cool white" lights. You
just may need several times as many Watts of it.
Wright
so my anwser in laymens terms
it was suggested for smaller plants . so not to dry or bake the little darlings
plants dont see light we do
if prroper light spectrum is used its more efficient
goofygolfer
Well-Known Member
Why is the minimum ammount of lumens suggested 3000 per plant?
Like I've said in other posts, there is a light saturation point whereby "more is less". A plant can only use so many photons in a day, after that bad things start happening, like photosynthesis is curtailed, chlorophyll bleaches out, etc. Check this graph out: http://www.marietta.edu/~spilatrs/biol103/photolab/saturati.html
as posted by ub lol more is less one of his mantras hehe
Like I've said in other posts, there is a light saturation point whereby "more is less". A plant can only use so many photons in a day, after that bad things start happening, like photosynthesis is curtailed, chlorophyll bleaches out, etc. Check this graph out: http://www.marietta.edu/~spilatrs/biol103/photolab/saturati.html
as posted by ub lol more is less one of his mantras hehe
goofygolfer
Well-Known Member
Great info as always, Ben. Think outside the growbox and listen to your plants are mantras to live by. Feed your plants what they ask for and leave the flushing for the toilet. as posted by ub
goofygolfer
Well-Known Member
lol funny you should say that cause thats where the info came from in post # 232 was reading about par and all that .going this deep into botany is new and exciting for me . also to grow a viable plant in water ( well plus nute's ) is uterly amazing. also first and formost getting a better understanding of plants and how they work will make me a better gardner insde as well as outside . this year i intend to have a outside garden . i want to grow everything tomatoes, patatoes, carrots, corn ect ect . i think its important to get back to nature a little .when i was younger my parents had a big garden ,i had to help but didnt take very serious and guess what now i 'm asking for that info .i told my dad "pops when i get older i will never garden again "omg ,life takes weird turns.here iam years later trying to learn how.
riddleme
Well-Known Member
WOW, I may be on to something here, I put what I said earlier in the thread in quotes to make my point.(can't ever seem to stop researching)
this one in advanced forum
https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/222916-how-plants-communicate.html
Edit, here I found it interesting that plants give off oders to protect themselves and warn each other
Matilda has no odor what so ever (must not be in danger) wouldn't it be cool if a perfect enviroment was the real answer to odor control?????
Yesterday I had Matilda out of her home for watering (and adjusting LST) now she is in her 6th week with out a single ounce of odor and I mean no smell at all even if I put my nose right on her.
When I went to put her back I accedentally bumped her into a chair back and she shook hard and boy did she give off a hard skunky odor, I actually thought I had been sprayed by a skunk. I put her back in her home and within ten minutes the smell was gone and has not been back since.
I am thinking that to her the bump on the chair was like a predatory animal walking past her, so she gave off the skunk odor to protect herself.
Wouldn't it be interesting if that skunk odor that everybody like only come from improperly grown plants???
Food for thought
prebs
Well-Known Member
Well yeah, plants do give off odors for defense. I actually wouldn't be that surprised if it was true. Nice find though. Youll have to test it with other strains using the same method to be positive.
Haha. And if and when it's legal to grow everywhere. They can sell, "proper" or "perfect" grow areas that prevent smell. That's of course if you take care of the plant properly too
riddleme
Well-Known Member
usually in the 2nd or 3rd week, but depends on the strain
and good for you on the tinfoil
prebs
Well-Known Member
Alright, I don't know who's had LST experience but your help would be really appreciated
Ok so my plant is fairly bushy and maybe a good 6 or so inches tall and I want to do LST and try to get the most out of her with little space. I think now's a good time for the first tie down, but I could be wrong, hence why Im asking. And secondly, the stem is fairly hard but bendable to a point. Do I basically tilt/bend the whole plant to one side and tie her down? Cause if i do that, it'll bend the stem from where it emerges from the soil and probably further down. Or do I have a portion of the stem like straight up and down out of the soil then bend it higher up? Im not quite sure and your help would be awesome. Thanks guys
Ok so my plant is fairly bushy and maybe a good 6 or so inches tall and I want to do LST and try to get the most out of her with little space. I think now's a good time for the first tie down, but I could be wrong, hence why Im asking. And secondly, the stem is fairly hard but bendable to a point. Do I basically tilt/bend the whole plant to one side and tie her down? Cause if i do that, it'll bend the stem from where it emerges from the soil and probably further down. Or do I have a portion of the stem like straight up and down out of the soil then bend it higher up? Im not quite sure and your help would be awesome. Thanks guys
jumboSWISHER
Well-Known Member
wow... thats crazy man lol
iv never read any thing about LST cuz i have a somewhat big space to grow in. but i would thing it would b best to have one string around the stem a bit about the soil, tied to the side not tilting the plant but holding it firmly, then a centameter or so above that have another string pulling the opposite way tilting the plant as far as it will go withou breaking. the bottom string will act as a pulley and make it so the stem and roots in soil will not be pulled on. and again iv never researed LST lol
prebs
Well-Known Member
but i would thing it would b best to have one string around the stem a bit about the soil, tied to the side not tilting the plant but holding it firmly, then a centameter or so above that have another string pulling the opposite way tilting the plant as far as it will go withou breaking. the bottom string will act as a pulley and make it so the stem and roots in soil will not be pulled on. and again iv never researed LST lol
Yeah thats actually what I was just thinking. good idea. Ill see how it works.
And Im guessing I slowly pull the string tighter and tighter as the plant adjusts and starts to curve itself? Or just BAM! bend it over.? Idk
kophey
Member
i just wanted to add a little something on lumens and lights. currently i'm using a 600 watt hps for both veg and flower. but once i get room to add a dedicated veg area, i'll be getting a mh light for that. So why not use a hps that has i higher lumen output in a veg room? well really this as i'm sure you all know by now has to do with the usable spectrum of light in any one portion of growth cycle. in the summer months your closer to the sun and at a more direct angle, so the wavelength of light has less time to spread out and is closer to the blue/green that sun sun radiates. while during the fall winter months the wavelength of light gets longer and is more orange/red. over time the plant has grown to use as much as is available to it. so tuning itself to the spectrum of light it has available naturally, is the best course for the plant. making that spectrum available is the best course of action for you. that being said don't ignore the rest of the spectrum a plant needs ultra-violet light to produce flowers no matter how much orange light your giving to it. trying too hard to tune your lights is probably the worst thing you can do. just because it favors one spectrum over the other at different points in it's life, doesn't mean it ignores the rest of the spectrum. just that it can better utilize photons in that particular wavelength.
when a plants photosynthesis is active it's converting those light photons to chemical energy with ~98% efficiency. plants can maintain such a high efficiency because it understands the quantum state of the photon it's absorbing, and understands it in ways i wish i could. i'll bet if you pick up a book on quantum theory and go sit next to your plants while you read and think about it. something good will happen.
happy harvesting to you all.
when a plants photosynthesis is active it's converting those light photons to chemical energy with ~98% efficiency. plants can maintain such a high efficiency because it understands the quantum state of the photon it's absorbing, and understands it in ways i wish i could. i'll bet if you pick up a book on quantum theory and go sit next to your plants while you read and think about it. something good will happen.
happy harvesting to you all.
