Rurumo's Mars Hydro FC6500 grow journal

I found out that Cocogenes has a website, and man do they ever have some great stuff! https://www.cocogenes.com/ Check out the "landrace" section of the store, and look at some of the cool collections they have, like the Ashram collection. They have some really hard to find genetics and I like their Kerala preservation project. Hopefully these villages continue to find value in cultivating their traditional seeds and are well compensated for them.

Also, here is Full Power Selections-Indian Landrace Exchange https://fullpowerselections.com/ I didn't know that either of them had websites.
 
tuksu6000 said:
Hey man how early u start cropping your plants? And do crop one stem multiply times? Im trying to do next round without any rings or sticks but im not too familiar with cropping young plants. Thanks.
Training for tops is done and now its time to harden them somehow.
View attachment 5191858
Click to expand...
I start early on plants that I know will become size issues. Each little break in the stem that you make when supercropping will strengthen the area immediately surrounding it within a week or two. You could start by just going around and cropping each branch in a similar spot, then the next day, do another spot on each, and so on. I usually give each spot time to heal before cropping the plant again in close to the same place-I spread them out and then go back and crop the weak points. You can get a freakishly strong frame if you crop it in the right spots. Keep in mind, this works better on some plants than others. Some plants will always need support at the end-they either just grow too fast/big. You can control the height during flower by supercropping the canopy flat every day, but those branches are still growing so you end up winding those very long branches around the canopy at the same height, and then when you chop the plant and hang it upside down, the branches are now taller than the tent if you stretch out the part you supercropped.

I would just start by cropping each branch and then seeing how the plant reacts. If you get some promising results, keep going and try to think of the weak spots on each branch as the plant grows, and crop those spots. Lots of times you'll get plants that are almost strong enough to support themselves, but you end up needing a single bamboo pole in each pot to anchor it to-I still think that's a success. You'll get tons of hybrids and indica types that don't need any support if you do this, but plenty of sativas that do. Some plants have "wet noodle branches" and just don't cooperate with any amount of supercropping.

Good luck, please give me an update in a couple of weeks, I'd like to see if it's working.
 
Rurumo said:
I start early on plants that I know will become size issues. Each little break in the stem that you make when supercropping will strengthen the area immediately surrounding it within a week or two. You could start by just going around and cropping each branch in a similar spot, then the next day, do another spot on each, and so on. I usually give each spot time to heal before cropping the plant again in close to the same place-I spread them out and then go back and crop the weak points. You can get a freakishly strong frame if you crop it in the right spots. Keep in mind, this works better on some plants than others. Some plants will always need support at the end-they either just grow too fast/big. You can control the height during flower by supercropping the canopy flat every day, but those branches are still growing so you end up winding those very long branches around the canopy at the same height, and then when you chop the plant and hang it upside down, the branches are now taller than the tent if you stretch out the part you supercropped.

I would just start by cropping each branch and then seeing how the plant reacts. If you get some promising results, keep going and try to think of the weak spots on each branch as the plant grows, and crop those spots. Lots of times you'll get plants that are almost strong enough to support themselves, but you end up needing a single bamboo pole in each pot to anchor it to-I still think that's a success. You'll get tons of hybrids and indica types that don't need any support if you do this, but plenty of sativas that do. Some plants have "wet noodle branches" and just don't cooperate with any amount of supercropping.

Good luck, please give me an update in a couple of weeks, I'd like to see if it's working.
Click to expand...
Cheers! I have use cropping only for backup method in late veg if im getting some stretching issues. With small plants it seems so much different because i cant really hear/see branches snapping like they do with bigger plants.

I tried to do some sort of twisting and bending for every branch so lets see how they react. I will give updates soon.
Start:
IMG_20220903_093754_edit_70354917839358.jpg
IMG_20220903_095119_edit_70377792796068.jpg
I did it for every plant and every stem. 2x2 is getting crowded so its more then fine if they need to take some time to recover :D
IMG_20220903_111019.jpg
 
tuksu6000 said:
I did it for every plant and every stem. 2x2 is getting crowded so its more then fine if they need to take some time to recover :D
Click to expand...

Sounds good! I'll be growing out a lot of sativas in the near future and plan on using it extensively to ty to slow down growth as much as possible. It actually doesn't slow down growth as much as I wish it would, but it's still great to maintain canopy distance. You will end up with such cool looking plant skeletons once you chop them down, some of them look so interesting I feel bad throwing them out in my compost pile.
 
Just a quick update on how the Corn Steep Liquor is doing. A few weeks ago, one of the CSL plants started going yello. I've been waiting for this to happen, just because I've seen hyperacidic media with liquid organics and soilless mix before. I believe the problem is due to not feeding it frequently enough to adjust the PH back into range. That's the reason I love coco, you basically flush it every time you feed, but with only positive results. If you can't feed frequently enough, you run the risk of hyperacidity with liquid organic fertilizers because of how active the rhizoshpere is. It isn't a problem that happens with mineral salts in the same media.

So about a week ago I adjusted the CSL recipe by adding 400 mg potassium bicarbonate per 1.25 gallons of nutrient solution-this brings the solution up to 6.2, and adds those crucial bicarbonates. The CSL is low enough in K so that this amount shouldn't lock anything out. I'm sorry to say I don't have a "before" picture of this plant but it was getting very yellow. Now it gets darker each day and only a few leaves are still yellow-the bicarbonates brought the PH back into range:

20220904_075413.jpg

And here is the Beleaf cutting that I've grown with CSL under T5 lights this entire time:

20220904_075231.jpg

I just heavily pruned this plant last night, so it actually looks less good than it did. But all of the new growth was normal colored and well shaped-it has gotten darker since adding the potassium bicarbonate too. I hate clones like this though, with the huge gaps between nodes...terrible for bonsai keepers. I wasn't careful about keeping this one close to the light to keep it more compact, but still not terrible for being 2 feet from t5s.

So, I think I'm confident enough in my CSL recipe to try it on one or two of next flowering cycle. I plan on adding just a touch of tm-7 micronutrients once per week during veg, and then right at 12/12 flip to carry them through the stretch phase.
 
One of the landrace strains I'm excited about is from Indian Landrace Exchange/Fullpower selections, called Eastern Manipur-Burma. I copied the strain description since it sounded interesting. Blue flowers that taste like blueberry with a "dreamy surreal high", sign me up. Tons of potential in Manipuri strains:

The Eastern Manipur region which borders with Burma (Myanmar) is a lush evergreen hilly terrain 1500 meters above sea level (5000+ ft.). The hill region has a different topography than Himalayan states such as Himachal or Uttrakhand. Larger hills can be found at the periphery surrounding a huge expanse of valleys with smaller hilltops. This region is inhabited by the Tangkhul tribe, a sub-division of the great Naga or Mao tribe.

Manipur has a tropical/subtropical climate for most of the year, except the winter months when the rainfall finally takes a break after an average 2000+ mm precipitation during the monsoons.

"Eastern Manipur regular seeds from Indian Landrace Exchange grows well in most environments, although it's eminently an outdoor strain for hot and tropical/subtropical climates, showing great resistance against heat, rain, wind and fungus.

The farmers from this region near the Eastern Manipur-Burma border grow cannabis yearlong thus creating a perpetual harvest cycle. Manipur is located at 24-25°N and undergoes a considerable amount of change in daylight hours from summer to winter. However, it doesn't snow in the winters and temperatures remain around 10-15°C allowing yearlong crops. Seeds sown spring-early summer get a full season and grow up to 10-11 ft. The seeds sown later in the summer have a medium stature of 6-7 ft and winter sown crops flower small at approx. 4-5 ft.

The full season crop begins to flower around August after at least 3 months of vegetative growth. These marijuana plants produce heavy lateral branching even without pruning. The full season crop yields more weight than the other two put together, which makes it their prime crop. The farmers only harvest these plants when they're fully ripe towards end of January.

The Eastern Manipur cannabis strain has lush green leaves with vibrant purple-blue streaked floral bracts packed together like an architectural masterpiece. We selected a few different variations in terms of structure, but every sample expresses the similar streaks of colours. The smell is very uniform amongst the domesticated heirloom population in this region, which closely resembles caramelised paste of blueberry and dried date fruit jam. The domesticated heirloom expresses long colas with chunky bracts covered in resin. It yields heavily due to it's strong lateral growth.

This variety has been selected and domesticated over many generations by the Naga tribes like Tangkhul. There were a few variations in the arrangement of the flower clusters but all unique and beautiful in their own right.

After sampling fresh resin on location, the effects were quite overwhelming in a way that it immediately creates a 'headband' and induces alertness and heightened sensitivity for the sounds in the environment. The effects of Eastern Manipur marijuana last over an hour and gradually intensify, creating an overall dreamy surreal high with a prominent massage like feeling around the forehead. Subjectively, the effects are very immersive and engaging, often triggering many ideas or thoughts."
 
Otherself saids rude you should ask nicely so have you never used lemon juice and if so what would be a good dose for a 5 gallon pot
 
Jeffislovinlife said:
I'm wanting to use some lemon juice what would be a good dose for a 5 gallon pot?
Click to expand...
Are you using it for PH down Jeff? I actually used lemon juice for a week or two here an there over the years. If your PH is over 7 and you're trying to get it to 6, I'd use a dropper and count out 10-15 drops per gallon. Start at the low end and test ph, then dial it in to your particular water source. You might need more or less depending on your water.
 
DrOgkush said:
Everything is looking great. What made you get into landrace’s ?
I’ve always thought about em. But never pulled the trigger. Prolly should add some to the vault.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I mainly like growing the landraces for the extremely unique terpenes you can find, as well as the pure sativa high from the equatorial sativas. It's interesting to learn about the cultures that grow these famous landraces that have been a part of their daily lives for hundreds of years. This Manipur landrace is interesting to me because it's grown for ganja by the Meitei people and is not meant for charas, so it's quite potent in flower form. The problem is it takes forever to flower inside, like 20+ weeks. But there are lots of very cool landraces that don't take so long, and just so much diversity in terpenes. I have a lot of seeds from Afghanistan and Pakistan too, but I really like some of the Indian sativas, which were a big part of the Haze genetics I've heard. Angus also sells Manipur at the Real Seed Company, and I actually think I have some of those seeds from a freebie.
 
Rurumo said:
Thanks! I mainly like growing the landraces for the extremely unique terpenes you can find, as well as the pure sativa high from the equatorial sativas. It's interesting to learn about the cultures that grow these famous landraces that have been a part of their daily lives for hundreds of years. This Manipur landrace is interesting to me because it's grown for ganja by the Meitei people and is not meant for charas, so it's quite potent in flower form. The problem is it takes forever to flower inside, like 20+ weeks. But there are lots of very cool landraces that don't take so long, and just so much diversity in terpenes. I have a lot of seeds from Afghanistan and Pakistan too, but I really like some of the Indian sativas, which were a big part of the Haze genetics I've heard. Angus also sells Manipur at the Real Seed Company, and I actually think I have some of those seeds from a freebie.
Click to expand...
That’s really cool. I’m might have to start getting to different things. The reason I tent to stay away is because I’m told potency Is weaker. But I’ve never proven that theory myself because I’ve never grown any. I always assumed opposite. Like purity. Iv always been a fan of Hindu Kush landrace. Like the real one. From the mountains of Hindu Kush. Not this bs circulating around claiming Hindu. I can say I’ve smoked the original og by josh and Matt. But iv never smoked true hindu. That shit makes people laugh when I tell ‘em. But they don’t understand what I mean.
 
Rurumo said:
Are you using it for PH down Jeff? I actually used lemon juice for a week or two here an there over the years. If your PH is over 7 and you're trying to get it to 6, I'd use a dropper and count out 10-15 drops per gallon. Start at the low end and test ph, then dial it in to your particular water source. You might need more or less depending on your water.
Click to expand...
166233873037387419018.jpgthanks for the the information :hump: :peace:
 
Glomus said:
I was just reading something today about Beauveria bassiana, as well as Metarhizium anisopliae, and the benefits on plant growth while searching for a fungal insecticide remedy for a termite problem. I'm really interested how effective this approach is for cannabis pest control and other pest treatments. I found a few products online today Botanigaurd 22WP being one of them. If anyone has any experience using these products I would love to hear about it. I do wild land restoration when I'm not growing monsters, so I'm curious if these kinds of approaches could resolve problems in plant diseases caused by insects.
Click to expand...
The arbico-organics site has a ton of biofungicides and biopesticides. There are some really interesting products utilizing endophytes these days-I think products like Botaniguard will grow in popularity until they equal mycorrhizae. Are you treating plants indoors or outside? I would love to test Botaniguard out for myself right now, my fresh coco that's been watered for about two weeks now has fungus gnats, and I'd love to see them turn into fungus zombies, but it's kind of pricey. They really should sell a small sample size to get it into more people's hands to test out for themselves. I know someone who swears by it though and he uses it outside. I like to use insects outside like green lacewings, and my main concern would be how much it affects beneficial insects.
 
RottyRzr said:
When is the latest that STS can be started?
Click to expand...
That's a good question. There are people experimenting a lot with dosing schedule and it seems that a lot of different schedules actually work well. A lot of the schedules I've seen recently start at 12/12 flip. Not sure how late you can start and still be successful.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top