SOG
Well-Known Member
that's correctWell, a heat exchangers efficiency is directly related to it's exposed surface area right?
that's correctWell, a heat exchangers efficiency is directly related to it's exposed surface area right?
still up tinkering,What is the approximate surface area of the ideas you have?
The jazz horn...
and the 3" duct..
I can be wrong and I usually am...
But I don't think you can beat a car radiator man.. there just too much surface area to compete... in my dumbass opinion..loll...
Why are you shying away?
that's all good bra, its called brain stormingMy only concern is the surface area...
If it IS larger.. Than I will shut up..
You know better than I do....
I am just playing "devil's advocate", but my knowledge is limited...
I say go for it...
sure did, in the process of implementing as we writeI can assume, that because of the degree of detail in your drawings, that you have already thought of everything. Like how you are going to lightlock the air inlets and outlets and cool those multiple beasts, and do so without envoking suspicions.
i have yet seen a conventional radiator that swirls 50ft of 1/2 cooper for surface area coolingI have to agree with Gypsy. It's all about surface area for heat exchange. Don't worry too much about restriction, you could always add an electric fan with a shroud to maximize airflow.
I know man.. I would just HATE to wear my welcome cause I don't shut up..lol..that's all good bra, its called brain storming
going to catch an hour or two of sleep before work
i have examined the alum fines on the radiatorsI know man.. I would just HATE to wear my welcome cause I don't shut up..lol..
OK... now..
I will agree with you on your coil...
But do you agree with me that if your coil had fins, it would be even more efficient...?
Are you trying to coil the copper inside the ducting? If so get a run of PVC pipe and wrap the copper tubing around the PVC pipe. Presto! a coil. Make the PVC smaller than the ducting of course. You can attach the copper to the PVC at the start with , what else, duct tape. Alternately, auto parts stores use to carry copper pipe benders which look like a small metal spring which you can insert the copper into and bend it without kinking it. I think this would be harder than the PVC method.damn, the tools i got aren't working for bending the 50ft roll i got
anyone has some coiling technique to share
Are you trying to coil the copper inside the ducting? If so get a run of PVC pipe and wrap the copper tubing around the PVC pipe. Presto! a coil. Make the PVC smaller than the ducting of course. You can attach the copper to the PVC at the start with , what else, duct tape. Alternately, auto parts stores use to carry copper pipe benders which look like a small metal spring which you can insert the copper into and bend it without kinking it. I think this would be harder than the PVC method.
Im not sure how you will attach the fins. Hope this helped
I'm working outside the tubeAre you trying to coil the copper inside the ducting? If so get a run of PVC pipe and wrap the copper tubing around the PVC pipe. Presto! a coil. Make the PVC smaller than the ducting of course. You can attach the copper to the PVC at the start with , what else, duct tape. Alternately, auto parts stores use to carry copper pipe benders which look like a small metal spring which you can insert the copper into and bend it without kinking it. I think this would be harder than the PVC method.
Im not sure how you will attach the fins. Hope this helped
ye of lil beliefSorry... without a pipe bender to guide it, I'd be afraid to kink it...
picked up some parts from home depot,
hold your fingers crossed for me guys, gonna give it a shoot
picked up 50ft 1/2" coiled cooper and two half open 6" tubes
to construct a 12" main where the coil will reside
i also run my idea by the home depot AC expert
his eyes opened wide as soon as he understood what I'm trying to do
he was so exited about this, he wanted to come home with me to do it
made me promise i will snap few for him once I'm done