This deficiency happens every cycle

Mjaylover

Active Member
So I know having the full plug has helped contribute or at least contribute speed up my problem. But I'm thinking out loud here. Obviously the last day or two nutrients weren't fed so the plant had to use remaining nutrients in the older leaves to try and stay alive. So if the problem worsened in the last day or so would that mean the problem originally is the lack of nut orient and that's why the oldest leaves are spotting and dying off first?

I could be way off and over thinking this. I'm just really hoping to solve the problem and dial in this setup for the next go around in about 40 days
 

pineappleman420

Well-Known Member
I'd say cal/mag deficiency... My killingfields/headband cross does this if im not ontop of the cal/mag. you might want to try to supplement some silica too.
 

Darth Vapour

Well-Known Member
we all can guess what it might or might not be but this is 3rd week in flower my guess she is hungry as fuck
To the op your main root cause is RO water get that shit the hell out of here and many of your issues will be solved is your water that bad that if you drank it you would die ??? i think not well then i would bet your plants are not going to die either 99 percent of issues are from the use of RO water
 

pineappleman420

Well-Known Member
we all can guess what it might or might not be but this is 3rd week in flower my guess she is hungry as fuck
To the op your main root cause is RO water get that shit the hell out of here and many of your issues will be solved is your water that bad that if you drank it you would die ??? i think not well then i would bet your plants are not going to die either 99 percent of issues are from the use of RO water
I am trying to learn something here so dont take this wrong... What is your bases for not liking RO water?
 

Darth Vapour

Well-Known Member
Ro water is better used in closed looped DWC systems where the grower a Experienced grower can dial in there feeding perfectly , people tend to think that the impurities in water will effect plant growth this is far from the truth most of the calcium found in tap water is not readily available for plants there for rendered useless Chlorine is another item found in tap water which believe it or not chlorine is a natural element and plants need..
As well phosphates is a plant regulator there for needed as well
Bottom line if you look at most of the issues growers are having the main cause was RO water
 

Mjaylover

Active Member
Lots of different opinions here. Nute burn, under fed and calmag. decisions decisions

Ph seems to be stable at 6.0 I added water yesterday so ppms are 550. My tap reads 180ppms. I've considered stopping the ro water too. Might do it the next res change. But the burn/defiency is still gonna be there so I might not ever know.
 
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Darth Vapour

Well-Known Member
feed it 3rd week you need to be in the 850 - 950 ppm do not bother adding the 180 ppm of tap water ppm's most of the minerals in there are not readily available for plants therefore rendered useless
 

Mjaylover

Active Member
feed it 3rd week you need to be in the 850 - 950 ppm do not bother adding the 180 ppm of tap water ppm's most of the minerals in there are not readily available for plants therefore rendered useless
Thats what I've always read but never been able to get that high because I watch the ppms climb and ph drops

So ditch the RO water and raise ppms to 800-900? I guess I could try it for a week and see what happens

And include the 180 ppms in the 850?
 

Darth Vapour

Well-Known Member
if not try it at least to another plant its hard now as you already damaged plant leafs there is no correcting just try to limp it along next grow if your dead set on RO then i suggest you run one plant with plain tap water forget the ppm from water and feed acordingly use that test to guage if i am right
 

Mjaylover

Active Member
if not try it at least to another plant its hard now as you already damaged plant leafs there is no correcting just try to limp it along next grow if your dead set on RO then i suggest you run one plant with plain tap water forget the ppm from water and feed acordingly use that test to guage if i am right
I would but I have a closed loop system ebb and flow 5 gallon buckets.

I am vegging 4 other plants in dwc right now and I was going to make it recirculating beciase it's easier but I might keep the buckets separate and try one with Ro water like you suggest. And all the plants are loving 400ish ppms and they have only been vegging for two weeks or so.

Ever since I've had the RO machine I've had problems no that I look back but I've also supplemented the hell out of calmag a grow back and it did nothing so I assumed it wasn't calmag problem
 
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Darth Vapour

Well-Known Member
yeah well i thought you were in flower but hell next rez change use tap water sure the chlorine in it will not hurt nothing ??
 

Mjaylover

Active Member
yeah well i thought you were in flower but hell next rez change use tap water sure the chlorine in it will not hurt nothing ??

Yeah I'm on day 23 in flower. I clarified the other post since it sounded confusing. I have flowering plants in the ebb and flow and I have four vegging plants in dwc
 

Mjaylover

Active Member
so whats your plans then ??
Hard to say. Probably just sit in the tent an cry a little.

But no, probably ditch the RO machine and try to increase ppms and sit and wait. I noticed during vegging in this ebb and flow system the longer I made the girls wait between floods the more the uptaked in nutrients (ppms dropped) right now I'm flooding every three hours for 15 min (about 30 total to drain)
 

GreenThumbsMcgee

Well-Known Member
Are these any good. 4 stars out of 705 reviews I would think is pretty good. Thy claim .05% accuracy on ph and .2% on tdsView attachment 3502740
i got the yellow one and it seems to work. It notices little adjustments when i ph up or down. For a cheaper one i'd say its worth it. No ppm meter built in tho. I just dont mix nute crazy high. Always reminding myself ess is more.
 

Dr.Pecker

Well-Known Member
Still wondering what you think the problem is?
Didn't I tell you what I thought it was? Check your res for slime, what are the water temps? Did you fix the condensation problem? You're growing in a bag in a pot maybe your roots are rotten causing bacteria and dropping the ph. How do the roots look are they brown dead or slimy? Ro water needs calmag. If the ph is too low all the calmag in the world won't help you.
 

icybryce

Member
Looks like a Mg problem. RO water, ph, and just lack of Mg in general can cause this. I use diluted MgSO4 (aka epsom salts) as a cheap additive for Mg. Dilute it ahead of time in something like a 1 gallon jug. I do a 1% solution and that comes out to about 1/3 tsp per 15ml if i remember correctly. 10-15ml per gallon should be enough. You could also foliar at this rate if you aren't too far into flower. The solution is highly soluble.

All that being said I'm kind of surprised this doesn't show up until mid flower if it is Mg. Check your nute line and see what the molecular composition is. Maybe they drop Mg when they switch over to bloom nutes. A lot of lines will not have nearly enough Ca and Mg in them for RO water because they are assuming you are getting enough for the plant from tap water and they don't want to add unneeded ec to the line.
 
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