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Plant's can use light more efficiently if the light is hitting the tops of the leaves. I can attest that you will get lusher growth on the bottom of the plant by placing t5s under it, but it is not the best use of light.

Upon further thought, the lollypop would be an excellent idea. And I think that this system is probably too small for a 1000w. 600 may even be too much. I've been looking at the dimmable, but I want to find out if there is a loss of efficiency with the dimmer.

1000w's penetrate better into the canopy. 600s give better coverage for shorter canopies, but do not reach as far down into it.

You can mod a dual hose portable A/C to be almost isolated. You'll still be adding back CO2 regardless, so a minor loss should be managable. The other option is called a "Mini Split A/C". They are pretty expensive, though.

Your best option is to supplement the CO2 in the room. Window A/Cs exchange very little air if any. Any other method of replenishing CO2 will be counterproductive to the air conditioner.

They have regular flex duct as well. You don't need the insulation, but it's a good idea. It prevents condensation or heat transfer after the bulb. Is this for a cooled lighting system?

Unless you're planning a SOG with a canopy of 18" or shorter, drop the 600s and go for 1000w's...

You should have a noticable mist in the reservoir tubes. You may need to rotate the spray lines to aim them up. I like to keep them hitting at the exact point where the water surface meets the edge of the tube. This seems to both create a lot of bubbles in the water and also a lot of mist in the...

All electronic ballasts strike both MH and HPS. This is no exception. Conversion bulbs are for magnetic ballasts.

My first thought was the T5s. The thing is for the 3' lamps that I require, you have to step into these Tek-Lights, which are expensive... So, I started thinking: Well, shit, if I'm gonna spend $350 ea for these T5s, I should consider LEDs. The 3 options all total to about the same amount...

Well, one more try... Anybody run T5s and LEDs?

Wow, those will be massive. I don't see anything wrong with using 2 1000w in there, so long as you can handle the heat. The strong penetration will be necessary with the bushes you'll have in there. I didn't see the video, but are they using an external res and 5 gallon buckets or similar? The...

3" with a 400w in an aircooled hood for me.

I think I'm going to get one of these for a single stage setup. It seems logical to simply step up your power consumption as your plants are actually going to use the extra energy. I wonder, though, is there any loss in effeciency when running on a dimmed setting?

bump. Any thoughts at all? Any experiences with LEDs for Veg?

Don't skimp on the PH meter. The TDS will probably be ok as it is not as imperative to be accurate. Cheap meters lose calibration quickly. Also, make sure whatever you buy is ATC (auto temperature compensating). HI98129 is a good Hanna combo meter for about $130. You can get the individuals for...

These numbers are rough generalities, per square foot(not per plant). A CMH bulb has a better PAR value than a normal MH bulb. 10k lpsf is only optimal with CO2 supplement and a very fast system at peak flowering.

I'd wait until you have more than just a couple roots hanging from each pot. The misting action should be enough to keep the roots plenty moist. It seems that there may be another problem. Are you running the mister on a timer? Or leaving it off at night? A couple other questions for a...

The biggest effect will probably be longer internode spacing, which will be perceived as stretch. There is a direct relation to the change in temperature between cold and hot and the internode spacing.

I've tried using foil tape before. I found that it didn't bond well to the plastic. White paint also helps reflect any light back up from the top of the res. If you decide to paint it, use the Fusion Plastic Paint. I've tried the rustoleum and valspar, the fusion is the best and it's available...